History of Verkhneudinsk. Ulan-Ude was founded earlier than the official date, says local historian Eduard Demin

The founders of the city of Verkhneudinsk, now bearing the name Ulan-Ude, the famous Cossack explorers Pentecostal Gavrila Lovtsov and the foreman Osip Vasiliev... Today, the names of the “service people” who founded the winter quarters on the banks of the Uda River, on the site of which the capital of Buryatia later appeared, attract the attention of historians and ordinary people not only because of idle interest. In early September, Ulan-Ude will celebrate its anniversary - the 350th anniversary of the founding of the city. Read about the people who laid the foundation for the capital of the republic, historical chronicles and the memory of their ancestors in the material of the UlanMedia news agency.

"Pioneers of Transbaikalia", or "Siberian conquistadors"

Let us note that very little is known about the personalities of Gavrila Lovtsov and Osip Vasiliev. The very existence of these historical characters is known only thanks to official documentation - various “unsubscribes” to the governors of the Cossack forts. There are several “reports” compiled personally by Osip Vasiliev, which report on their diplomatic and construction activities together with Gavrila Lovtsov, and a number of similar documents compiled by their colleagues, where the names of these two appear. These documents date from 1665 to 1684. It is almost impossible to extract any biographical information about the founders of the capital of Buryatia from this kind of official documentation.

This is the seventeenth century, it’s good that at least such references to Lovtsov and Vasilyev have been preserved,” says historian Leonid Orlov.

Unfortunately, many documents from that time simply perished in subsequent eras. However, some researchers tried to recreate portraits of the founders of Ulan-Ude based on fragmentary information. One of them is famous local historian Eduard Demin, who wrote many works on the history of Transbaikalia. His work “Udinsk. Essays on the initial history inseparable from Selenginsk,” published in 2014, describes in some detail the formation of the Udinsk and Selenginsk forts. In particular, the author pays a lot of attention to the historical figures who founded the forts. So who were these two courageous Russian “conquistadors” who walked shoulder to shoulder through the wilds of Siberia?

Osip Vasiliev

Foreman Osip Vasiliev, according to Eduard Demin, was the intellectual leader of the “tandem”, being more educated and experienced. History has not preserved information about the date or place of his birth, as well as the date and circumstances of his death. From the few documents associated with him, it is known that he was a “Siberian native” who repeatedly performed the functions of a translator (“interpreter”), was literate, which indicated a good education, and often wrote official documents.

Model of the Selenginsky fort. Photo: Vasily Tararuev, UlanMedia

The name of Osip Vasiliev was first mentioned in a document dated May 7, 1645 - interrogations of witnesses to the death of the Cossack Semyon Skorokhod at the hands of the Barguzin Tungus. Osip Vasiliev signed instead of one of those interrogated, apparently due to the latter’s illiteracy.

“Instead of the industrialist Leonty Vasiliev Penechkin, at his behest, the Yenisei Cossack Oska Vasiliev had a hand in this interrogation,” the text says.

We can assume that this is the same Osip Vasilyev, the founder of the Selenginsky and Udinsky forts, because literate people in those days were rare, and most of the reports on the construction of the Selenginsky fort were written by Osip Vasilyev. Thus, Osip Vasiliev began his career as a servant of the Yenisei prison, and may have been born somewhere on the territory of the modern Krasnoyarsk Territory or Irkutsk Region. Considering his good knowledge of the Mongolian language, it is possible that he was born in a mixed marriage.

Later documents mentioning Osip Vasilyev date back to 1666. In them, Osip Vasiliev appears as a servant of the Barguzin fort with the rank of foreman, participating in an expedition to found the Selenga fort.

According to the letter sent by Osip Vasilyev to the Yenisei governor Vasily Golokhvastov, he was sent from the Yenisei fort in 1662 “to the Baikal service in the Barguzin fort”, receiving “a two-year salary in cash, grain and salt” - for two years in advance. We are probably talking about a two-year “watch”. The same reply states that Osip Vasiliev in 1664 volunteered to participate in an expedition to the upper reaches of the Selenga with the aim of building the Selenga fort. This coincides with the content of the message of the Yenisei governor Vasily Golokhvastov to the Siberian order addressed to Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, made on August 14, 1666. It says that Osip Vasiliev submitted the corresponding “petition” together with Gavrila Lovtsov, and they became the head of the risky enterprise.

It is from 1664 that the appearance of their “tandem” can be formally counted, although the acquaintance and cooperation of the two “service people” probably began much earlier. Let us note that it was during this expedition that two main achievements of Lovtsov and Vasiliev took place: the founding of the Selenginsky fort and the Udinsky yasak winter hut.

Eduard Demin suggests that Osip Vasiliev, given the title of foreman, was about 30 years old or more at that time. Meanwhile, in the Middle Ages, to which the 17th century belongs, the average life expectancy was significantly lower than today; accordingly, the levels of youth and maturity were lower than modern ones. Let us recall that the dates of birth of Lovtsov and Vasilyev, or their ages at the time of some events, are not even approximately known to us. As for the religion of Osip Vasilyev and Gavrila Lovtsov, they were born long before the church reform; accordingly, according to modern ideas, they were Old Orthodox Old Believers.

Vasily Golokhvastov’s reply states that in 1665, after the construction of the Selenginsky fort, Osip Vasiliev went on a diplomatic mission to the Mongolian king Kukan Khan: this is how the Khalkha khan Dashi-huntaiji was called in Russian chronicles, and convinced him to send three ambassadors to the Russian king. Considering that Osip Vasiliev often acted as a translator in such negotiations, Eduard Demin proposes to consider him as the founder of the traditions of the glorious galaxy of Cossack interpreters of Transbaikalia.

It should be said that for the successful Selenga expedition, Osip Vasiliev, together with Gavrila Lovtsov, received the “royal gracious word” from Alexei Mikhailovich himself in 1667. In a letter to the Yenisei prison, the autocrat noted in detail their merits; the Uda yasak winter quarters were also mentioned there.

In 1669, Osip Vasiliev went to Moscow to take “census books,” most likely, documentation from the newly built Selenginsky fort, then returned to Selenginsk. In the "Census Book of Service People of the Yenisei District from 1669" he is mentioned “Oska Vasiliev, interpreter, he has no children, Oska, in the current year 177 he was sent with census books to Moscow.”

Cossack prayer service at the worship cross at the site of the founding of Ulan-Ude. Photo: Vasily Tararuev, UlanMedia

Four years later, in 1673, Osip Vasiliev again participated in the diplomatic mission of the “son of the boyar” Ivan Perfiryev to the Mongolian Tushet Khan with the aim of presenting him with a salary and negotiating access to China. On this expedition, Osip Vasiliev acts as a translator, and already appears in the rank of Pentecostal. Thus, the man who went down in history as “foreman Osip Vasiliev” rose to a higher rank.

The last time the name of Osip Vasilyev was mentioned was in the “Scribe Book of 1686” of the Irkutsk fort. In the chronicles of that period, according to Eduard Demin, the arable peasant Osip Vasilyev, a former “walking man,” is also mentioned. Although we are talking about different people, the local historian does not rule out the version that Osip Vasiliev, having settled in the Irkutsk prison, decided to retire and engage in peaceful arable farming.

“Osip came to build the Selenga city, and that is already 23 years old. And from that time of Your Tsar’s Majesty [with] the service people, we lived in advice and love among ourselves.”

Almost the same words are uttered by other Mongol ambassadors in the “Article List of Fyodor Golovin,” covering the period from 1686 to 1692. The date of death of Osip Vasiliev is unknown, obvious descendants are not traced in historical documents.

Gavrila Lovtsov

Information about the life of Pentecostal Gavrila Ivanovich Lovtsov is even more scarce. He was first mentioned in the letters of Osip Vasiliev in 1665 as a “Pentecostal” and as a “Cossack foreman of the Yenisei prison.” He also appears with the title of Pentecostal in the letters of Vasily Golokhvastov. You can see that Gavrila Lovtsov was also a “servant” of the Yenisei prison, like Osip Vasiliev. It is logical to assume that, just like Osip, Vasiliev was sent from the Yenisei prison to serve in the Barguzin prison. Further, ancient records speak of Gavrila Lovtsov’s participation in the Selenga campaign, which he initiated together with Osip Vasiliev. Later, Gavrila Lovtsov accompanied from the Selenginsky fort to Irkutsk three ambassadors from Kukan Khan, with whom he was supposed to go to the tsar. As follows from the official correspondence, this attempt to establish diplomatic ties failed - for an unknown reason, the Mongolian ambassadors fled.

According to historian Evgeniy Zalkind, the ambassadors heard false rumors about a military conflict between Kukan Khan and the Cossacks, and they were afraid that the Russians would take their anger out on them.

From Osip Vasilyev’s reply it also follows that the escape occurred due to the “simplicity and negligence” of Gavrila Lovtsov, which may be a sign of some kind of friction in the “tandem”, perhaps rivalry, although this is not evident in other documents. Let us note that, according to Vasily Golokhvastov’s reply from 1666, Gavrila Lovtsov agreed with Kukan Khan to give two new ambassadors to replace those who escaped, whom he safely delivered to the Yenisei prison, and then accompanied to Moscow to the Siberian Prikaz. Gavrila Lovtsov, like Osip Vasiliev, was praised in a letter from the Tsar in 1667.

Reconstruction of the appearance of explorers. Photo: Vasily Tararuev, UlanMedia

Later, the name of Gavrila Lovtsov appears in a 1672 extract from the yasak book of the Yenisei district about the amount of yasak collected from the Buryats. It reports on the amount of fur collected by Gavrila Lovtsov in the Selenginsky fort from 1670 to 1671. Then, in 1672, Gavrila Lovtsov again accompanied the Mongolian embassy to Moscow, as detailed in the letter from the Tobolsk governor Ivan Repnin. In 1673, Lovtsov delivered a “letter of grant” and gifts from Moscow to the Mongol Khan Ochiroi and his brother Taisha Batur.

Already in 1675, in a letter from the Yenisei voivode Mikhail Priklonsky to the Tobolsk voivode Pyotr Saltykov, Gavrila Lovtsov appears with the rank of “orderly man” of the Selengig fort and in the status of “son of a boyar”. This is career growth, an increase in status - being considered one of the “children of the boyars,” the lowest stratum of the feudal class in Rus'. The reply itself talks about goods from China sent by Gavrila Lovtsov to the Tsar. The goods were obtained as a result of the trade that Gavrila Lovtsov conducted with China in the interests of the state, for yasak furs, as well as from duties on private trade. Thus, Gavrila Lovtsov proved himself to be a competent business executive, establishing foreign trade, and organizing, perhaps, the first customs office in Buryatia. Let us note that in 1689, Ambassador Fyodor Golovin used the norms of “day food” drawn up by Gavrila Lovtsov, sending ambassadors of Mongolian taishas who had accepted Russian citizenship to Moscow.

In documents from 1681, Gavrila Lovtsov notifies governor Ivan Vlasov about the predatory raids of the Mongols, and later reports on the punitive operation, during which Selenga servicemen recaptured stolen cattle from the Mongols.

The last time Gavrila Lovtsov appears in the census of Selenga settlements is from 1693. Later censuses mention many Cossacks with the surname Lovtsov, probably his descendants. Let us note that in the “Census Book of Service People of the Yenisei District of 1669,” Gavrila Lovtsov, like Osip Vasiliev, is mentioned as childless. It can be assumed that he decided to have children after life in the Selenginsky prison improved and became safer. As for the date of death of the legendary founder of Verkhneudinsk, nothing is known about it either. But according to the assumptions of Eduard Demin, taking into account the title of Pentecostal, at the time of the Selenga expedition, Gavrila Lovtsov should have been about 30 years old, respectively, at the time of the last documentary mentions - about 60 years old. He most likely died somewhere in Selenginsk.

You can see that Gavrila Lovtsov was a physically and spiritually strong person, no stranger to adventurism and risk. Assessing the activities of this historical character, Eduard Demin believes that Gavrila Lovtsov was distinguished by his will and administrative talent. And thus, he complemented the “intellectual” Osip Vasiliev. Together they became a force that forever changed the course of history on the right bank of Lake Baikal.

Selenga expedition

The Selenga expedition of 1664-1665 to the upper reaches of the Selenga, where the Chikoy River flows into it, became an event that inscribed the names of Lovtsov and Vasiliev in the history of modern Ulan-Ude and Buryatia. Nowadays, the capital of the republic and the village of Novoselenginsk in the Selenga region of Buryatia can be considered monuments of that adventurous raid. The expedition was supposed to establish a stronghold at Chikoy, impose yasak on the local Evenks, as well as the Buryats who migrated from the Bratsk and Balagansky forts.

Eduard Demin assesses this as an adventure by the “servicemen” of the Barguzin prison, which coincided with the plans of the Siberian order for further expansion to the east. From historical documents it follows that preparations for the expedition began in 1664, and the results in the form of built strongholds appeared in 1665.

The detachment consisted of 85 members, known by name. According to the reports of Osip Vasiliev, the administration of the Barguzinsky fort allocated rather modest material support, providing two ships in poor technical condition, a regimental cannon and a small amount of ammunition. The rest of the weapons and supplies had to be purchased on credit from the forts on the Angara River. It is noted that gifts were also provided to appease indigenous peoples attracted to Russian citizenship.

"...and all sorts of Russian goods, red cloth and copper in cauldrons and tin and all sorts of small things for foreigners as gifts, with which we can give and fertilize the foreigners of the Bratsk and Tungus people with affection and greetings, and again call and persuade with all kindness and kindness the great sovereign of the royal majesty high hand, so that foreigners would be obedient to the great sovereign in payment of yasak in sable,” reads Osip Vasiliev’s reply from 1665.

Explorers' routes. Photo: Vasily Tararuev, UlanMedia

This indicates that the taxation of Buryats and Evenks with yasak was based, at least, not only on the threat of violence.

Based on the reports of Osip Vasiliev, it is possible to draw up the route along which the Selenga expedition moved: from the Barguzinsky fort through Baikal to the Angara to the Lower Bratsk, Balagansky and Irkutsk forts, then again through Baikal and up the Selenga to its tributary, the Chikoy River. In the light of some historical documents, there is an assumption that the 350th anniversary of the founding of Ulan-Ude, which will be solemnly celebrated in early September 2016, should in fact have been celebrated a year earlier...

When was Ulan-Ude founded?

According to the established version of historians, the Uda winter quarters were built in 1666. This year was chosen because it dates back to Osip Vasilyev’s reply (approximately May 7, 1666), which has long been considered the earliest mention of the existence of the winter hut.

“...and for those new foreigners who were recruited, a tribute winter quarter was set up at the mouth of the Uda River,” the text says.

As a result, 1666 was accepted as the date of foundation of Verkhneudinsk-Ulan-Ude at the official level. But according to Eduard Demin, in reality the Udinsk winter hut was built in 1665 - simultaneously with the Selenga fort, or even earlier.

The local historian defends this version, relying on Osip Vasiliev’s earlier reply to the Siberian Order, dedicated to the construction of the Selenginsky fort. It also dates from 1666, not earlier than March 26th. It also mentions winter quarters: “Yes, in the present, great sovereigns, in the 174th year of September on the 27th day, you, the great sovereign, were called by the Tsar’s Majesty under the high hand into eternal, unrelenting servitude and in tribute payment, foreigners - the Tungus people of the Lyulelenkur clan of 25 people to the Selenga at the mouth of the Uda - rivers to the yasak winter quarters."

September 27, 7174 according to the old Russian chronology “from the creation of the world” corresponds to October 7, 1665 according to the Gregorian calendar.

From this historical document it follows that at the time of the official date of the founding of the Selenginsky fort, the winter quarters already existed and functioned to collect yasak from the surrounding Evenks. According to Eduard Demin, for some reason this reply simply fell out of the sight of historians. As a result, due to a kind of inertia, an incorrect date for the founding of the capital of Buryatia was established, in his opinion.

Stylization of an old map in the Ulan-Ude History Museum. Photo: Vasily Tararuev, UlanMedia

Eduard Demin suggests that the Uda winter quarters were built even earlier than the Selenga fort; he builds this theory based on a number of circumstances.

It was the custom of Russian pioneers, when they moved deep into Siberia and the Far East, to leave behind winter quarters - hunting and tribute. This was justified: they are going into an unknown country, and feedback needs to be maintained. Winter huts allowed them to rest and replenish supplies, says Eduard Demin.

The local historian also suggests considering the route along which the expedition moved. In addition, he calls for taking into account that the vessels provided to the detachment of Lovtsov and Vasilyev, according to the replies, had very severe wear and tear, and at some point became unfit for use. In view of all of the above, the local historian suggests that the detachment of pioneers, climbing the Selenga, made a stop at the mouth of the Uda to repair worn-out ships, which, according to reports, required serious repairs. At the same time, a winter hut was set up at the confluence of the Uda and Selenga, and even then negotiations began with the surrounding Evenki about transferring to Russian citizenship. And the place itself, due to its strategic convenience, was probably scouted by previous expeditions of explorers - Pyotr Beketov in 1654 and Afanasy Pashkov in 1657. This logically explains the readiness of the winter quarters at the time of construction of the Selenga fort. And if the winter hut was built in 1665, this logically explains the contradictions of the previous version, since in 1666 Lovtsov and Vasiliev participated in a diplomatic mission in Mongolia and could not directly participate in its construction. Thus, the 1665 version neatly puts everything in its place.

As for the transformation of the Udinsky winter hut into the Udinsky fortress, historians approximately date this to 1678, and in the Cossack reports the Udinsky fortress confidently appears around 1684. Considering the dates of the last mentions of Lovtsov and Vasiliev, it can be assumed that the Udinsky fort was built during their lifetime, and it is possible that with their participation.

The first diplomats

Speaking about the role of Gavrila Lovtsov and Osip Vasiliev as the founders of Ulan-Ude and Novoselenginsk, researchers tend to miss their contribution to the development of diplomatic relations with Mongolia. For example, establishing contacts with “Kukan Khan”, who was convinced to equip an embassy for the Russian Tsar, or participating in negotiations with Tushetu Khan, where Osip Vasiliev was clearly not just an interpreter, but a person influencing decision-making. Again, one can recall the good reviews of the Mongols about Osip Vasilyev 23 years after the construction of the Selenga fort.

One of the sketches of the monument to Lovtsov and Vasiliev. Photo: Vasily Tararuev, UlanMedia

Eduard Demin notes that for the construction of the Selenginsky fort, the Cossacks had to require many horses as draft force. But the Cossacks traveled by water, which was difficult to transport horses. Therefore, Eduard Demin suggests that the horses could have been purchased or begged from the same Mongolian taishas, ​​which again suggests diplomatic contacts.

One way or another, one can clearly see that Gavrila Lovtsov and Osip Vasiliev were not only warriors and builders, but also diplomats who laid the foundation for serious foreign policy relations in our region.

Instead of a conclusion

History is rich in biographies of famous travelers, explorers and simply brave people. In former times, distant lands could only be conquered by desperate people, ready for hardships and inconveniences, but also accomplishments, discoveries and meetings with new lands. Gavrila Lovtsov and Osip Vasiliev, who laid the foundations for the formation of modern Ulan-Ude and Buryatia, were just such people. The version about the selfish motives of their expeditions seems controversial to many historians, including Eduard Demin, given that the explorers rarely acquired wealth, with a life full of hardships and dangers, and a meager salary.

It should be noted that the explorers did not come as conquerors, but rather as an alternative political force that offered protection and statehood to their new subjects. According to Eduard Demin, the Mongol khans took the construction of the forts calmly; conflicts began much later, when the Buryat and Evenki tribes stopped paying them tribute, switching to Russian citizenship. In addition, the explorers were too few in number to impose anything on the peoples of Siberia by force alone, and the clumsy firearms of that era by no means provided a decisive advantage.

As follows from the Cossack replies, the explorers tried to resort more to diplomacy. Returning to the personalities of Lovtsov and Vasilyev, one can see bright and talented historical characters. It is all the more surprising that in Buryatia the names of these two explorers were known for a long time only to a narrow circle of professional historians and local historians. These names became known to the general public only after heated discussions in the republican media on the issue of installing a monument to the founders of Ulan-Ude. Speaking of the monument, we have to admit that the city will celebrate its pompous 350th anniversary without a memorial to its founders. And thus, in the apt expression of Buryatia social activists, there will be an anniversary without a hero of the day. Meanwhile, in Ulan-Ude there is not even a street named after Lovtsov and Vasiliev.

At the same time, in other cities of Siberia and the Far East their founders are honored: for example, in Omsk there is a monument to Ivan Buchgolts, to Pyotr Beketov - in Chita and Yakutsk, to Yakov Pokhabov - in Irkutsk, in Khabarovsk and Vladivostok there are also memorials to the founders of the cities.

In many cities of Siberia and the Far East there are monuments to the legendary Siberian governor, Count Muravyov-Amursky; in Irkutsk in 2015, a bust of another Siberian governor, Mikhail Speransky, was erected, by the way, cast in Ulan-Ude. Only in the capital of Buryatia there is not a single memorial to the figures of the era of the founding of Siberia.

An early sketch of a monument to the founders of Ulan-Ude. Photo: "Verkhneudinsky Herald"

One can recall how the Americans managed to romanticize the image of the Frontier, the pioneers of the Wild West, in world popular culture. We recognize in the world the image of the hidalgo-conquistador in a cuirass and helmet. But the era of the development of Siberia is an uncultivated layer for the creation of no less vivid images and exciting adventure works. Popularizing the image of Siberian explorers in popular culture can attract an additional flow of tourists to the region. In the meantime, servicemen Gavrila Lovtsov and Osip Vasiliev are waiting for a talented fiction writer who would describe their adventures in the form of an art historical novel.

110 years ago, active construction began on Batareika - the glass factory of the Verkhneudinsk first guild of merchant Alexander Kuzmich Kobylkin was erected on a site leased to him by the city government for a period of 39 years. In our opinion, it is from this moment that we can talk about the birth of industry in our city.

Of course, even before that there were small soap factories, tanneries, and oil mills in Verkhneudinsk. However, all of them did not exist for long, their productivity was insignificant, and not many people worked for them. The Kobylkin glass factory, as well as the distillery, brewery and mechanical lit plant that were built soon, operated for decades. And it is not Alexander Kuzmich’s fault that his legacy is partly squandered, and partly drags out a miserable existence.

Who was Alexander Kuzmich Kobylkin? He was born in 1859, although there are other versions regarding the date of his birth. He was from a family of poor Nerchinsk townspeople. He began working as a teenager - a “stove boy” who brought firewood to the Goldobin distillery. He rose to the rank of vodka master, and then to accountant and chief accountant. So I knew the production thoroughly and from all sides. He always dreamed of his own production and in 1889 he joined the Verkhneudinsk merchant class.

Starting with the grocery trade, Kobylkin quickly occupied a prominent place among the Verkhneudinsk merchants. Already in June 1891, he was one of the twenty eminent citizens of the city who formed the honorary guard of Tsarevich Nikolai Alexandrovich passing through Verkhneudinsk. However, having successfully developed trade, adding manufacturing trade to grocery, Alexander Kuzmich continued to think about production.

And at the end of the 19th century, his dream began to come true. In order to understand how thoroughly Kobylkin approached his business, it is enough to look at the old buildings of the distillery in Ulan-Ude, which themselves are unique monuments of industrial architecture for Buryatia, where you can take excursions.

Unfortunately, in the early 30s, another brainchild of the merchant, a glass factory, burned down. The plant started operating again in 1935, in a new location. And for some reason unknown to us, this particular year is considered the year of his birth. But we don’t change the date of birth in our passport every time we move to a new place of residence, even after a fire. So this year we can celebrate not 75, but all 110 years of this plant.

Here we must make a personal digression. I heard the name of Alexander Kuzmich Kobylkin from early childhood; this man played such an important role in the fate of our family. It was on his initiative that factory clerks gathered glassblowers throughout Siberia. This is how my great-grandfather Polikarp Nikitich Baklanov ended up in Verkhneudinsk, having moved here from Minusinsk, where a local factory went bankrupt. Our grandfather Alexander Polikarpovich also began his career at the glass factory, although he was ten years old at the time and his name was simply Sashka. And it was here that he met our grandmother Shamsutdina Musalimovna, although her name was then Shurka. And until their last days, and my grandmother and grandfather lived a long life, they remembered Alexander Kuzmich with extraordinary respect. And there was a reason for it. Craftsmen and workers were provided with housing, not just some kind of barracks, but houses with a courtyard. It is curious that people still live in these houses. He organized the supply of products at discounted prices and organized leisure activities.

In 1910, he leased a plot of forest adjacent to the factories to build pavilions and gazebos for workers to relax. Moreover, he undertook to keep the leased area clean, and the coniferous forest itself “should not be destroyed under any circumstances.” In winter, a skating rink was set up on Uda opposite Batareina, so Kobylkin made his contribution to the development of physical education and sports.

He did not forget about his production. In 1906, Alexander Kuzmich opened his own printing house in a specially built two-story building with a bookbinding workshop. At that time it was the best printing house, and later became the basis for the republican printing house. It was here that a unique brochure about the Zaudinskaya Ascension Church was printed, which we mentioned in No. 14 of the Verkhneudinsky leaflet.

A plant for artificial mineral waters was built, and already during the First World War, a metal repair plant was built. And this enterprise, like other Kobylkin factories, provided dozens and hundreds of jobs. Kobylkin’s commercial activities are also developing. Its manufacturing, grocery and wine trade extends throughout Transbaikalia, in Chita and Nerchinsk. However, talking about his life, it is impossible to talk about the other side of his activities. This is all the more appropriate since we remember this before Children’s Day. Having received his education at a distillery, Alexander Kuzmich did a lot to ensure that other children studied in real schools. He maintains and sometimes builds schools, not only in the city, but also in the villages.

Kobylkin is a trustee or honorary guardian of the Verkhneudinsk women's pro-gymnasium (we wrote about this in one of the issues), the Verkhneudinsk city parish school, the parochial school in Zaudinsky suburb, the Verkhneudinsk real school, city one-class schools, parochial schools in Khara-Shibiri, Kalenov and Ilyinsky. In fact, all of these educational institutions were supported by his funds.

During the Russian-Japanese War, Kobylkin participated in the organization of hospitals for the wounded. It is not surprising that Alexander Kuzmich was a member of the prison trusteeship society and was a trustee of the prison Church of Our Lady of Sorrows. This is only part of the charitable activities that Kobylkin was involved in. Unlike others, he did not like to advertise it, we learn about this from archival files. However, the state celebrated Alexander Kuzmich. He was awarded gold medals on the Apizhna and Stanislav ribbons, the Red Cross medal and other awards. And for church donations - a Bible from the Holy Synod. But perhaps the most honorable award was the title of honorary citizen, which was awarded to Alexander Kuzmich Kobylkin on May 15, 1911. For a merchant and industrialist, this was more important than other orders.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Kobylkin bought one of the best houses in the city - a house with a mezzanine that once belonged to the merchant Kurbatov - directly opposite Goldobin's house. In the huge house he occupied only two rooms. He wore the same frock coat and cap. And sometimes, allowing himself a glass or two of beer, he borrowed money from his own workers to pay off.

This is what the attending physician M.V. Kobylkina wrote. Tansky: “...I always looked at Alexander Kuzmich as the main clerk, subordinate to a strict, demanding owner - of all his created enterprises. He himself, the real owner, did not see any joy from them; on the contrary, they completely exploited him and literally sucked the blood out of him. With great persistence, I managed to persuade Alexander Kuzmich to go to Crimea for treatment, and he took a break from the grueling work for a month and a half. This was his only bright spot in his working life...”

After the advent of Soviet power, all of Kobylkin’s enterprises were nationalized, and he himself was arrested. Shortly after his release from prison, he died “from physical exhaustion.” The whole city came out to bury him: from the house to the Odigitrievsky Cathedral the coffin was not even carried, but passed from hand to hand. The place of his burial in the courtyard of the cathedral is known quite accurately; alas, it is not marked in any way.

Today's industrialists and businessmen practically do not remember their predecessors. Perhaps because the comparison is not in their favor. And, celebrating the 230th anniversary of the Verkhneudinsk Fair, it would be nice to remember that 110 years ago the industry of our city was born, and to honor the glorious name of Alexander Kuzmich Kobylkin.

History of the administrative-territorial structure of Verkhneudinsk - Ulan-Ude and adjacent places
(First part)
In 1682, an independent Irkutsk voivodeship was formed, which included in 1686 the Verkholensky, Balagansky and Idinsky forts and Biryulskaya Sloboda with the villages assigned to them, and somewhat later the Western Trans-Baikal forts (Verkhneangarsky, Barguzinsky, Bauntovsky, Udinsky, Selenginsky , Itantsinsky, Kabansky, Eravninsky), while the eastern forts of Buryatia came under the jurisdiction of the Nerchinsky fort. The voivode was the sole manager of the voivodeship, subordinate directly to the Siberian order. He was a civil and military commander and had executive and judicial powers. By the way, the judicial power of the governors in 1695 was somewhat limited: they were prohibited from passing death sentences. However, he was also in charge of diplomatic relations with the Mongols and Oirats, which were of a local nature; more important embassies were sent directly to Moscow.
In 1690, the Udinsk fortress received the status of a suburb; Selenginsk (Staroselenginsk) continued to remain the administrative center of Western Transbaikalia. At first, Udinsk was ruled by a Cossack head, then by a commandant. “How at first there was a small village, then multiplied by the above-mentioned archers, who were renamed Cossacks, after which it was called a suburb... Divided into two parts, of which the first is called Gorodskaya, and the second - Slobodskaya... The first part consists of a wooden fortress with towers, a powder magazine , artillery guardhouse and guardhouse; the second part consists of five provision stores, an office, barracks, a wine cellar, drinking houses, trading shops, one almshouse, four houses for official places and 110 philistine houses...”
Traveler Paul Labbe wrote about Udinsk: “... From a distance it looks really big; close up it is just a large village, similar to all Siberian district centers with wide dusty streets, which any thunderstorm turns into potholes, with wooden houses, with that sad and monotonous appearance that is characteristic of most Russian cities...”
On January 31, 1775, according to the Decree of the Governing Senate, Udinsk began to be called a provincial city (the center of the Udinsk province) as part of the Irkutsk province. On September 25, 1775, the Uda Provincial Chancellery was formed. “All those district towns and places that were under the jurisdiction of the Selenga and Nerchinsk Voivodeship Boards became subordinate to this province: Barguzin and, in a word, all overseas inhabitants, except those assigned to the Nerchinsk factories.” Soon the governor arrived, artillery major Ivan Vasilyevich Tevyashov, comrade Ivan Vasilyevich Lanskoy and the prosecutor Ivan Ivanovich Melgunov. At that time in the city of Udinsk there were 271 male “revision souls” (205 commoners and nobles, 6 guild artisans and 60 townspeople).
In 1779, the city of Staroselenginsk, which had previously been the main administrative center of Western Transbaikalia, was subsequently subordinated to Udinsk and became a registered city of the Verkhneudinsk district. In June 1782, governor I.V. Tevyashov was transferred to Irkutsk. Vladimir Leontievich Voeikov was appointed as the new governor of the Uda province (Demin E.V., 2006, p. 214).
On March 2, 1783, according to the Highest personal Decree, Verkhneudinsk district was formed, Udinsk became a district city of the Irkutsk region and was named Verkhneudinsk, although it was located at the mouth of the Uda River (that is, it could have been called Nizhneudinsk, but such a settlement already existed in the Irkutsk region, and previously, places located further to the east were called upper). “The local situation under the entire city is meadow and flat. It extends 480 fathoms in length, 400 fathoms in width, and its shape is like a triangle... This city is divided into two parts. The first is called city, the other is called suburban; The first part consists of a wooden fortress with towers, a gunpowder magazine, an artillery workshop and a guardhouse. The second part consists of provision stores, an office, barracks, a wine cellar, drinking houses, trading shops, factory stores, private houses, of which there are 110 in number, and in the middle of these last three churches. Such a description of the township part is given in “Ancient Russian Vivliofika...” on the eve of the urban planning reform” (Guryanov V.K., Guryanov M.V., p. 20). In Verkhneudinsky district there were 252 settlements, including two cities: Verkhneudinsk and Staroselenginsk, three forts (Barguzinsky, Ilyinsky, Kabansky), three fortresses (Troitskosavskaya with the Kyakhtinsky outpost (Kyakhta trading settlement), Petropavlovskaya and Kudarinskaya), thirteen Cossack guards, then settlements and villages; There were 48,437 inhabitants, of which 28,737 people were Buryats and Evenks and 20,000 Russians.
On December 12, 1796, Siberia was divided into two provinces - Irkutsk and Tobolsk (according to the state approved in 1798, the Irkutsk province included 17 districts: Balagansky, Verkholsky, Irkutsky, Ilimsky, Kirensky, Nizhneudinsky, Yakutsky, Zashiversky, Srednekolymsky, Nizhnekolymsky, Olekminsky, Verkhnevilyuysky, Barguzinsky, Verkhneudinsky, Selenginsky, Tunkinsky and Nerchinsky).
In 1822, in connection with the transformation of Western Transbaikalia into the Verkhneudinsk district, the city of Verkhneudinsk became a district city of the Irkutsk province and the second largest city in Eastern Siberia after Irkutsk.
In 1824, Zaudinskoye Suburb was almost completely built up with estates. Naberezhnaya Street began with the estate of the Cossack Ivan Portnyagin and consisted of 9 estates. Voznesenskaya Street began with the estate of the Cossacks Peter and Semyon Tarakanovsky and consisted of 26 estates. Prodolnaya Street began with the estate of Kozma Skornyakov; there were 10 estates on it. Bolshaya Street began with the estate of the clerk Pyotr Tsynkov. There were 27 estates on it. Novo-Kazachya Street began with the estate of the Cossack Ivan Markov and included 20 estates. Lesnoy Lane consisted of two estates - the Cossack Vasily Beloglazov and the tradesman Stadyrnov. In total, in Zaudinsky Suburb there were 95 houses of residents, one state-owned wooden house and one public one. There were 35 wooden houses across the Selenga River (Guryanov V.K., Guryanov M.V., pp. 45-46).
In March 1827, the Verkhneudinsk merchant of the 1st guild Grigory Aleksandrovich Shevelev, on the advice of the Decembrist A.N. Muravyov, rented a plot of land near the city, in a mountain valley, along the Berezovka River (on Strelka) and further until it flows into the river. Udu for creating a farm and an experimental plot for acclimatization and breeding of fruit trees, vegetables, cereals and industrial crops. Soon the land was cultivated, planted and sown. On the recommendation of A.N. Muravyov, Grigory Shevelev becomes a correspondent for the Moscow Society of Agriculture (Moscow Society of Agriculture), where until 1833 he sent correspondence with the results of his experiments, which were regularly published in the Agricultural Journal. Shevelev was the first in Transbaikalia to master the industrial production of beets, conducted (albeit unsuccessfully) experiments in the cultivation of American tobacco and Chinese wheat, and grew vegetables and clover. Also here he was engaged in horse breeding and conducted experiments on bee breeding (Ulan-Ude in the past and present, pp. 50-51).
On August 16, 1851, the regulations on the administration of the Trans-Baikal region, formed from the Verkhneudinsky and Nerchinsky districts of the Irkutsk province, were approved, the abolition of the Verkhneudinsky district administration and court. In the Trans-Baikal region “... there were 3 district towns, including provincial towns, 2 provincial towns, 15 settlements, 51 villages, 304 villages, 479 Cossack villages, 46 border guards, 3 cathedral huts, 2 clan councils, clan administrations - 145, foreign uluses - 700, Tungus naslegs - 13. 356,688 people lived in the Transbaikal region.”
In 1875, according to the city register in the central part of Verkhneudinsk, the number of courtyard plots and houses in them was 348, there were 1269 male residents and 1345 female residents; for r. The number of household plots is 215, male residents are 466, and female residents are 503; for r. In Selenga, the number of courtyard plots is 39, male residents are 89, and female residents are 96; total: 602 households, 1824 men, 1944 women (total 3768 people). In 1878, according to the city government in Verkhneudinsk, on the estates of residents there were 1,415 horses, 1,015 heads of cattle, 750 sheep, 42 heads of pigs, 98 goats.
On December 4, 1882, the popular Russian magazine “Niva” writes: “Verkhneudinsk is one of the best cities in our distant Transbaikalia. Situated on the right bank of the Selenga, it occupies a not particularly large area, formed, on the one hand, by the Selenga, on the other by the Uda tributary, and on the third by a sandy hill on which a small pine forest grows. The city itself consists of three parts: the city itself, the Zaudinskaya settlement and a village located several miles up the Selenga.... Before the formation of the Trans-Baikal region, i.e. until the end of 1851, Verkhneudinsk was considered a district city of the Irkutsk province. The general appearance of Verkhneudinsk is quite beautiful: the streets are wide and quite regularly located, with the exception of one - Podgornaya, which the very conditions of the area did not allow to be drawn into one straight line. Several decades ago there was a lake here, and therefore this area is still popularly called Mokra Sloboda, indeed, after the rain it lives up to its name. On the large central square, in a stone two-story building, the public places of Verkhneudinsk are located: the city government, the treasury and the zemstvo court. Another square is Bazarnaya, where special trading activity is in full swing during the local fair, which lasts from January 26 to February 6, which attracts not only residents of the Verkhneudinsky district, but even Barguzinsky and Nerchinsky. Of the more remarkable city buildings, besides Gostiny Dvor, some of the local churches deserve special attention due to their structure and intricate architecture. The oldest church in the city was Spasskaya, a wooden church built near the mountain itself. Now a cross has been erected on this place where she stood, and this entire area is in the possession of one private individual. The local cathedral church was built in 1741, and the Trinity Cemetery - in 1809. The inhabitants of Verkhneudinsk are up to four thousand: these are mainly townspeople and Cossacks. The townspeople are engaged in petty trade or exchange of goods in Chita and Kyakhta. In addition, many of them travel around local villages and conduct a brisk trade in omul, since omul, together with brick tea, constitute the main food of the local common people. The Cossacks are engaged in farming, transporting and selling firewood. Many branches of trade are in the hands of Jews, who have now managed to get into even the farthest corners of Siberia. In the vicinity of the city there are factories: soap, candle and glass factories.” Then in the city of Verkhneudinsk there were 4,130 residents, of which 2,124 were male and 2,006 were female.
On June 16, 1884, the Trans-Baikal region was removed from the jurisdiction of the East Siberian Administration and transferred to the Amur Governor-General. The Transbaikal region consisted of 8 districts - Verkhneudinsky, Nerchinsky - since 1851; Barguzinsky, Selenginsky, Chitinsky - since 1870; Troitskosavsky, Akshinsky, Nerchinsko-Zavodsky - since 1872
In 1891, in the book “Transbaikalia. A brief historical, geographical and statistical outline of the Trans-Baikal region" wrote: "... The city is divided into four parts: the city itself, the mountainous part, the village inhabited by Cossacks (belongs to the city and is subordinate to the Verkhneudinsk police, but at the same time is part of the Selenga district) and a settlement located about 6 miles from the city.... In the city there is a district police department, a district treasury; have a stay as a mountain police officer of gold mines, a comrade prosecutor, a judicial investigator...”
On January 1, 1899, the national composition of the city of Verkhneudinsk was: Russians 4356 people. (men 2142, women 2214), Jews 731 people. (men 399, women 332), Tatars 85 people. (men 55, women 30), Poles 82 people. (men 62, women 20), Chinese 60 people. (all men), Buryats 52 people. (men 25, women 27), Germans 14 people. (men 8, women 6), Georgians 6 people. (all men), Armenians 8 people. (all men), Circassians 15 people. (all men), other 45 people. Total 5454 people.
The Zaudinsky suburb had the official status of a Cossack village, although in police terms it was subordinate to the city. Here, in addition to the Cossacks, the poor people of the city settled. “Zaudinskoe suburb, which has 220 estates, i.e. a third of the estates of the entire city, remains in its former run-down abandoned position and brings in the city revenues an assessment fee from real estate of 260 rubles, i.e. one twentieth of the total collection” (Minert L.K. Architecture, p. 55). The Zaudinsky Cossacks regularly served military service in the Cossack troops, and in normal times they lived a peasant life: they had arable land, meadows, kept livestock, planted potatoes in the fields and were widely engaged in gardening. “They grew especially a lot of cabbage on their large private plots, and they supplied the city with other vegetables in predominant quantities. Housewives baked bread, rolls and fluffy fragrant rolls for the bazaar. Every day they carried fresh custard rolls into the city from house to house in birch bark baskets placed on their heads, in the preparation of which they specialized to perfection. In the fall, when the collection of pine nuts was over, they supplied the townspeople with nut butter, and the children were given pleasure by “sboine” - fatty nut squeezes with sugar in the form of a cake, which were sold for a penny each and were a favorite delicacy for children.” Nevertheless, meat dishes began to form the basis of the city residents’ diet. Meat was purchased in butcher shops, bazaars and fairs. Some city residents raised livestock and provided themselves with meat. There were almost no meat grinders; meat was chopped in wooden troughs with semicircular knives with wooden handles attached to them - “chipping”. In winter, dumplings were prepared for future use, which were taken out into the cold on spacious iron baking sheets. Wealthy townspeople could afford to buy sausages, which were produced by only a few craftsmen. Hunting and fishing brought a certain variety to the diet of the townspeople. There was good hunting for ducks and geese along the Uda River in spring and autumn. In those years when there was little game in the suburbs, townspeople went for ducks and geese to the Buryats in Ivolga or to the “Semeyskie” in Taltsy.
On January 1, 1904, the national composition of the city of Verkhneudinsk was already: Russians 7500 people. (men 4000, women 3500), Jews 1480 people. (men 800, women 680), Tatars 100 people. (men 60, women 40), Poles 105 people. (men 70, women 35), Chinese 60 people. (all men), Buryats 90 people. (men 50, women 40), Germans 25 people. (men 15, women 10), Georgians 6 people. (all men), Armenians 15 people. (all men), Circassians 32 people. (men 30, women 2), others 117 people. Total 9530 people.
On March 17, 1906, the Transbaikal region was removed from the jurisdiction of the Amur Governor-General and was re-incorporated (see June 16, 1884) into the Irkutsk Governor-General, where it was until 1917.
On January 1, 1916, the population of Verkhneudinsk by nationality was: Russians 14,512 people. (7155 MP, 7357 female population), Jews 1346 (660 MP, 686 female population), Poles 284 (131 MP, 153 female population), Buryats 85 (53 m.p., 32 zh.p.), Chinese 107 (100 m.p., 7 zh.p.), Tatars 433 (187 m.p., 246 zh.p.), Circassians 13 (m.p. .), Armenians 68 (38 m.p., 30 zh.p.), Georgians 75 (51 m.p., 24 zh.p.), Lithuanians 15 (6 m.p., 9 zh.p.) , Estonians 60 (27 m.p., 33 r.p.), Latvians 28 (17 m.p., 11 r.p.), Japanese 71 (29 m.p., 42 r.p.), Koreans 35 (18 m.p., 17 zh.p.), Mordovians 10 (8 m.p., 2 zh.p.), Greeks (m.p.), unknown 45 (35 m.p., 10 f. .P.). Total 17193 people. (8534 m.p., 8659 zh.p.).
On April 6, 1920 in Verkhneudinsk, at the first constituent congress of workers' representatives, the Far Eastern Republic (FER) was formed. Verkhneudinsk becomes the capital (until November 4). The Far Eastern Republic is a “buffer” state that allowed the eastern Russian territories to maintain Russian sovereignty in the conditions of foreign intervention and distance from the center. It included the territories of Transbaikal (with the center in the city of Chita), Amur (with the center in Blagoveshchensk), Priamurskaya (with the center in Khabarovsk) and Primorsky regions (with the center in Vladivostok), Kamchatka, Northern Sakhalin and right-of-way of the Chinese Eastern Railway. The Far Eastern Republic allowed a multi-party system, universal suffrage by secret ballot, private property and private trade. Communist A.M. was elected head of the provisional government of the Far Eastern Republic. Krasnoshchekov (real name and last name Abraham Moiseevich Tobelson, 10.10.1880-26.11.1937). On May 14, 1920, the Council of People's Commissars of the RSFSR officially recognized the Far Eastern Republic and Verkhneudinsk as the capital of the entire Far East.
On November 5, 1920, the Government of the Far Eastern Republic moved from Verkhneudinsk to Chita. After the government of the Far Eastern Republic moved to the city of Chita, the People's Revolutionary Committee of the Baikal Region (Priboblnarrevkom) was formed to perform the functions of power, organize economic and cultural life in the city of Verkhneudinsk, the executive body of which was the presidium. B.N. was elected Chairman. Dobronravov. In November 1921, it was reorganized into the Regional Administration of the Far East (Fund Guide..., p. 30). Priboblnarrevkom was located on the street. Big, in Kobylkin’s house (now V.I. Lenin Street, No. 27). On November 22, 1920, the Government of the Far Eastern Republic adopted a resolution on the separation of the Pribaikalsk region from the Transbaikal region with the administrative center in the city of Verkhneudinsk. December 30, 1920 “The other day, government emissary of the Baikal region A.M., appointed by the government D-V.R., arrived from Chita. Buyko" ("Baikal region", 1920, December 30, p. 2). January 30, 1921 “Order No. 1. It is announced to the population and government institutions of the region that the government regional emissariat is located in the city of Verkhneudinsk, Bolshaya Street, Goldobina's house... Emissary of the Baikal region A. Buyko" ("Baikal region", 1921, January 30, p. 2).
May 17, 1922 “Comrade Postyshev was appointed Government Emissary of the Baikal region, who will soon take up his duties” (“Pribaikalskaya Pravda”, 1922, May 17). In October 1923, in connection with the liquidation of the Baikal province, the Pribgubispolkom transferred its powers to the Revolutionary Committee of the Buryat-Mongolian Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic (Guide to the funds..., p. 19).

On the eve of the upcoming 350th anniversary of the capital of Buryatia - the city of Ulan-Ude (Udinsk-Verkhneudinsk), a documentary opportunity has appeared to doubt the correctness of the generally accepted date of its foundation - 1666. The date is accepted, so to speak, by default, but has not been precisely documented, writes the famous Buryat local historian Eduard Demin, in his article in the newspaper “Buryatia”.

Brief history of the issue

First, a little about the more than two-century history of historians designating in printed publications different dates of foundation and the founders of Selenginsk and Udinsk, which are inextricably linked in the general initial history.

Perhaps the very first specific information about the dates of foundation and founders of Transbaikal Selenginsk and Udinsk will be published in 1838 by the famous Siberian historian P.A. Slovtsov (1767-1843) in the first edition of the “Historical Review of Siberia”: “It is almost certain that Selenginsk, which has existed since 1666, was built up by a team of wasps. Irgensky, who went down Khilka; that this new castle (...) was erected in 1668. Udinskoy, based on Selenginsk." And in a footnote: “Unfortunately, nowhere was it noted what the Yenisei authorities did to promote the construction of the Uda and Selenga forts? That’s why I wanted to look at the Yenisei Chronicle.” The famous historian, apparently, did not have documentary evidence, but when naming dates for Selenginsk and Udinsk, he correctly judged the foundation of the second from the first.

In 1883, the Siberian historian I.V. Shcheglov in his “Chronological list of the most important data from the history of Siberia” will name the dates: “1649. Foundation of the Verkhneudinsk fort" (...). 1666. Selenginsk was founded as a fort.” Shcheglov names, in principle, contradictory dates for Udinsk and Selenginsk, which are chronologically and organizationally inextricably linked.

Very indicative of a critical attitude towards the information of previous authors, as well as one’s own, which turned out to be inaccurate, are the historical works of another well-known historian of Siberia, V.K. Andrievich. In his early works - “Manuals for writing the history of Transbaikalia” (1885) and “A brief outline of the history of Transbaikalia” (1887) - he writes: “Tolbuzin (...) ordered the construction of the Selenginsky fort in 1666; Udinsky (Verkhneudinsky) fort was built in 1668.” In the same works, Andrievich convincingly proves the inconsistency of the founding date of the “Udinsky fort” in 1649 named by Shcheglov. But in his main work, “History of Siberia” (1889), he no longer writes that it was the Nerchinsk governor Larion Tolbuzin who ordered the construction of the Selenginsky fort, instead we read: “The Selenginsky fort was built in 1666 (...). According to a document stored in the Moscow archive of the State Collegium of Foreign Affairs, in book No. 9” on page 3 it is written: “About the Selenginsky fort, the local Cossacks, in 7181 (1673) who came to Moscow with Mungal envoys, said: they set That prison, having selected 80 people from Yeniseisk by itself, without the voivode’s knowledge, is now in its 9th year.” Therefore, the Cossacks set up a fort in 1665.” Here it is very important to pay attention to the fact that the archival data given by Andrievich about the founding of the Selenginsky fort in 1665 became the first publication of this date.

In a 1916 monograph by historian A.P. Vasilyev’s “Transbaikal Cossacks”, clarified and supplemented by the names of direct figures, information about the founding of Selenginsk begins directly with the subtitle “Foundation of Selenginsk by Cossack foremen Osip Vasilyev and Gavriil Lovtsov in 1665.” Then follow the lines of this section: “In 1665, when he was in the Barguzinsky prison as a clerk for the Streltsy head Pervago Samoilov, Cossack foremen Osip Vasiliev and Gavriil Lovtsov (...) submitted a petition to Samoilov, asking for permission to bring under the sovereign’s hand the traitors Buryats who had left Balagansk and lived now on Chikoy, and set up a fort among their nomadic camps on the Selenga River, at the mouth of Chikoy. (...). Here, on September 27, 1665, having chosen a suitable place in Mongolian land, a new fort was erected and called it Selenginsky.” Regarding the founding of Udinsk, the author limited himself to only one mention of the “Udinsk winter quarters (at the mouth of the Uda).” The great merit of the Trans-Baikal historian Vasiliev, which has not yet been noted, is his very first publication, with reference to documentary archival sources, of the names of the founding fathers of the Selenga fort (and therefore Udinsk), which had not previously been named in printed publications.

The founders and enthusiasts of the modern compilation of the history of the Baikal region, including the “biography” of Verkhneudinsk, were prominent scientific and public figures of Eastern Siberia: historian and ethnographer N.N. Kozmin; historian, local historian, expert on local archives V.P. Girchenko and the famous Buryat historian and ethnographer M.N. Bogdanov.

Regarding the date of the founding of Verkhneudinsk, the first to speak out was Girchenko, who in 1922, in the historical essay “Baikal region,” without citing sources, wrote: “In 1665 it was founded near the confluence of the river. Chikoya in Selenga fort Selenginsky. After a year [i.e. in 1666 - E.D.] at the confluence of the Uda River with the Selenga, the Uda winter hut was set up to collect yasak from the surrounding Tungus, which later turned into a mountain. Verkhneudinsk".

Kozmin owns, obviously, the very first special work in modern local history on the history of Verkhneudinsk, published in 1925 under the title “Essays on the Mountains. Verkhneudinsk". In it, Kozmin, having placed the date according to Shcheglov, immediately disavows it with an indisputable historical fact: “The founding of the Udinsky fort dates back to 1649, but it is interesting that Spafariy, who twice passed in 1675 the place where the Udinsky fort should be, does not mention absolutely about him. (...). Spafariy could hardly have missed the Udinsky fort if it existed.”

Girchenko’s large historical essay “Foundation and Initial History of the City of Verkhneudinsk” was also published in 1925. In it, Girchenko, referring to printed sources, notes: “In the “response” compiled on September 30, 1665, the Cossack foreman Vasiliev reported to the Yenisei governor that the service people... had chosen a suitable place in the Mungal land, on the Selenga River... . a new prison was erected"; “and the foreigners to the new Selenginsky fort,” the same Vasiliev reported in another reply, dated August 14, 1666, “were called up: 25 people were called up for the yasash payment of the Kolenkur clan of foreigners of the Tungus people... and for those new conscripted foreigners, a yasak payment was set winter quarters at the mouth of the Uda River.” Girchenko, confirming the validity of Kozmin’s doubts, will close the question of 1649, concluding his chronological analysis with the words: “The dating of the founding of Udinsk to 1649 also contradicts the above data.” But, as later pointed out by the researcher of urban planning and monuments of Transbaikalia, the author of the book “Architecture of Ulan-Ude” L.K. Minert (1983), he himself will be mistaken, dating the lines of Vasiliev’s reply he quotes to August 14, 1666, instead of April 27, 1666 indicated in the document.

In 1926, in “Essays on the history of the Buryat-Mongol people” by historian and ethnographer M.N. Bogdanov (introduction by N.N. Kozmin), on the same documentary basis, the founding date of the Selenginsky fort will be indicated - 1665 and one of its founders will be named - “Cossack foreman Osip Vasiliev”.

In subsequent Soviet years, historian E.M. Zalkind (in 1949) writes: “In the 60s (...) several forts were built, the largest of which were Selenginsky and Udinsky, founded in 1666.” Regarding the Selenginsky fort, Zalkind later, in the 1958 monograph “Annexation of Buryatia to Russia,” will clarify: “Permanent relations with Kukan Khan began after the construction of the Selenginsky fort in 1665 at the mouth of Chikoy.” The author will also designate “the builder of the fort Gr. Lovtsov,” incorrectly calling him Grigory, but according to the documents he is Gavrila.

In the “Chronology” attached to the “History of the Buryat-Mongol ASSR”, published in 1951, the founding of Selenginsk and Udinsk is dated back to 1666.

Apparently, following this chronology, in relation to Udinsk, the same date will be repeated in their books about Ulan-Ude by historians F.M. Shulunov - in 1955, Ts.Ts. Dondukov - in 1961, both without naming its founders.

In 1966, historian N.V. Kim in “Essays on the History of Ulan-Ude” will write: “In 1666, the Cossacks of the Selenga fort, going down the Selenga, reached the mouth of the Uda and established a small Cossack winter hut here (Udinskoe). (...). In August 1666, in one of their reports to the Siberian Prikaz, servicemen wrote about this: “And for those... prize foreigners, a winter quarter was set up at the mouth of the Uda River.” And in the 1976 essay “The Udinsky Fortress,” Kim specifies the date and names one of the founders: “Ulan-Ude dates back to a small Cossack winter hut, built in 1666 by the serviceman Osip Vasilyev, “comrades” who founded the Selenginsky fortress a year earlier.” As we see, Kim is also mistaken regarding the date of unsubscription (not August 1666, but April 27).

The most serious chronological analysis will be carried out by the already mentioned researcher L.K. Minert, who in a unique monograph of 1983 - “Architectural Monument of Buryatia” - wrote by date: “G. Ulan-Ude (formerly Verkhneudinsk) was founded at the turn of 1665-1666.” In the above-mentioned book, he will consider this issue in detail: “Although the time of construction of the winter hut is not indicated in the documents, it is quite accurately determined by the time between two reports (unsubscribes) of Osip Vasilyev, i.e. September 30, 1665 and April 27, 1666. It is generally accepted that the year of foundation of the city of Verkhneudinsk (Ulan-Ude) is 1666. As can be seen from the above, the construction of the winter quarters was carried out either in the last months of 1665, or at the very beginning (January, February) of 1666. In this case, October 1665 seems more likely g., until the freeze-up of the Selenga."

Later, Far Eastern historian A.A. would support Minert’s opinion. Artemyev in the 1999 monograph “Cities and forts of Transbaikalia and the Amur region in the second half of the 11th-111th centuries.”

In the 1991 article “And the Cossack winter quarters were built” and in the 1995 book “Udinsky Fortress,” local historian Alexey Tivanenko writes: “Although Osip Vasiliev writes that he began construction of the new fort [Selenginsky - author] on September 27, 1665, this unlikely." These lines alone cannot inspire confidence in the author for the reason that in the corresponding replies from Vasiliev the word “started” is missing, but is clearly indicated - “they set up a new prison,” the Yenisei governor also wrote to the tsar, according to Vasiliev’s replies. And one more thing: a completely normal, very healthy, and also literate person, a Cossack foreman, a fearless pioneer, who combined the duties of a clerk and an interpreter here, was one of them - the founders of Selenginsk and Udinsk - Osip Vasilyev... And there is no doubt that he was fully responsible for his actions and replies to the “comrades”, the governor and the tsar...

In a very informative book from 1993 by historian S.V. Evdokimova “Essays on the history of the cities of Transbaikalia in the 11th-111th centuries.” in relation to the founding of the Selenginsky fort, information that has already become documented indisputable is named: the date is “September 27, 1665”, the founders are “Pentecostal Grigory [Gavrila - E.D.] Lovtsov and foreman Osip Vasiliev.” But about the time of the emergence of Verkhneudinsk, the historian writes that service people “under the leadership of Gavrila Lovtsov, “looking for” new lands, reached the mouth of the Uda River (...) on August 14, 1666 [in the source, as specified by L.K. Minert, April 27 - E.D.] set up a winter hut.” True, further, the author determined the time of foundation of the winter hut more carefully: “It would be correct to assume that by the autumn of 1666 the winter hut already existed.”

To summarize this selective list, we can say that the founding date of Selenginsk in the past was called 1668 and 1666, and Udinsk - 1649, 1666 and 1668. The first person to call 1665 the year of the founding of the Selenga fort in 1889 was the historian V.K. Andrievich, and the first who, pointing out the mistake of V.P. Girchenko (repeated later), when dating one of the replies (not August 1666, but April 27), in 1983, documented doubted the founding year of Udinsk-Verkhneudinsk (Ulan-Ude), generally accepted today as 1666. Researcher L.K. Minert. Well, the first person who, in 1916, with reference to documentary archival sources, identified the names of the founding fathers of the Selenga fort (and therefore Udinsk), who had not previously been named in printed publications, was the Transbaikal historian A.P. Vasiliev.

Now we can move on to the ancient act that I recently discovered, which clearly draws a line under such a long discord of opinions regarding the founding date of the modern capital of Buryatia - the city of Ulan-Ude (Udinsk-Verkhneudinsk).

This document, which has not yet been introduced into our local historical and local lore circulation, “Reply of the Yenisei Cossacks O. Vasiliev and his comrades to the Siberian order on the construction of the Selenga fort, on the Mongolian ambassadors and the Chinese state,” dated “1666 no earlier than March 26,” - “the time of writing the list with the contractual petition (TSGADA, f. Mongolian Affairs, op. 1, 1666, d. No. 2, l. 14).” It is given in the collection of documents “Russian-Mongolian relations. 1654-1685", published in 1996.

A unique ancient act

Here are the relevant extracts from this document, addressed by all the original builders of the Selenga fort directly to the Russian Tsar:

“To the Sovereign Tsar and Grand Duke Alexei Mikhailovich, autocrat of all Great and Lesser and White Russia, and to the Sovereign Tsarevich and Grand Duke Alexei Alekseevich, of all Great and Lesser and White Russia, and to the Sovereign Tsarevich and Grand Duke Feodor Alekseevich, of all Great and Little and White Russia, your slaves beat the Yenisei prison with their foreheads, foreman Oska Vasiliev with his servicemen. (...).

And this year, great sovereigns, in the year 174, on the 27th day of September, having chosen a suitable place, on the Selenga River in the Mungal land, for the help of God, you, the great sovereign, erected a new Selenga fort, and according to the salary, the fort was erected 60 fathoms printed , and in the corners there are 4 towers with spreaders and covered towers. And the height of the fort is half a third fathom, and the circle of the fort is fortifications, garlic and gouges.” (...).

And this year, great sovereigns, in the year 174, on the 30th day of September, I, Osipko Vasiliev [with] service people from the comrades from the new Selenginsky prison, sent those Mungal ambassadors to you, the great sovereigns, to Moscow, and with them, the ambassadors, the Pentecostal Cossack Gavrilko Lovtsov and the servicemen Pyatunka Fofanov and Fedka Ivanov Vyatchenin were released from the Yenisei prison, the foreman // Cossack Timoshka Grigoriev was released to the eager Cossacks, and the serviceman Tarasko Afanasyev was released with them. (...).

Yes, in the present, great sovereigns, in the 174th year of September, on the 27th day, you, the great sovereign, were called by the Tsar's Majesty, under the high hand, into eternal, unrelenting servitude and in tribute payment, foreigners - the Tungus people of the Lyulelenkur family of 25 people to the Selenga at the mouth of the Uda River to the winter tribute, and those conscripted and visiting foreigners of the Tungus people were beaten by the Barguzin yasak Tunguses at the mouth of the Itantsa River, and those slaughter people were killed by a pogrom from the Barguzin yasak Tunguses, the Streltsy and Cossack head of the First Samoilov, for any threat, took the cattle and belly and yasyr for himself.”

The uniqueness of this ancient act for the initial history of Selenginsk and Udinsk is also seen in the list of names and surnames given in it of almost half of their original builders, of whom, as is known today, there were 85 people. By publishing this list, I really hope that some of the modern residents of Buryatia will recognize their Transbaikal ancestors in them. These are the first and last names of the first builders and first settlers who signed the appeal to the Tsar:

“Yes, in the present, great sovereigns, in 174, the serviceman Afonko [Fedorov] Baidon was taken from the Irkutsk fort of the Yenisei to the new Selenginsk fort for your great sovereign affairs for interpretation in the Tungus and Bratsko language and Mungal translation. Please, great sovereigns, give that interpreter in the Yenisei prison from your royal treasury his Cossack salaries, cash and grain and salt salaries.

Yes, then with this reply to you, the great sovereign, a contractual petition was sent for our hands, a list word for word, as I, your servant Oska Vasilyev, cleaned up the service people and newly-applied Cossacks and called up the Selenga service for your great sovereigns.

On ll. 8-14 rev. assault: To this response to the Selenginsk prison, the foreman, a Cossack foreman, a Siberian native Oska Vasiliev, and instead of the foreman Ofonka Kazymin and instead of the interpreter Ofonka Boydon, at their behest, and in his place, put his hand. Instead of servicemen Vasily Stepanov, Evdokim Mikiforov, Ontsifor Ermolin, Filip Simanov, Mikhail Ivanov Palachev, and at their behest, Zakharko put his hand in for himself. The service man Ivashko Tyukhin put his hand. Instead of servicemen and willing Cossacks, Mikhail Kolesarev, Timofey Rodukov, Luka Ivlev, Kuzma Mogulev, Yarafey Mogulev, Ignatius Stefanov, Lu[ku]ka Fomin, Mikhail Kichigin, Ivan Telnovo, Yakov Kirilov, Ivan Osipov, Tretyak // Denisova, Sergius Ivanov Oniki Grigoryva, Ivan Vasiliev, Levontia Timofeev, Ivan Belogolov, Dmitrey Ivanov, Sava Grigoryev, Olekia Yakovlev, Oniki Kirilov, Mikhail Yakovlev, Maxim Vlasov, Othosyasya Eleesev, Gerasima Nanamsko [correctly - Danilov Tatarinov, Tatarinov. Instead of the eager Cossacks Stenka Mikha[y]lov, Yakunka Maksimov, Ondryushka Matfiev, Ondryushka Kozmin, Vavilka Grigoriev, and Ivashka Afanasyev put his hand in for himself. // Instead of the eager Cossacks Ekim Overkiev, Fyodor Ondriev, the eager Cossack Efimko Mikhailov had a hand. Instead of the service people Vasily Semenov, Ondrei Ivanov Failures and in all the service people, instead of those who were unable to read and write, the service man Petrushka Vasiliev Vlasyev, at their behest, put his hand to the Yenisei prison. (TSGADA, f. Mongolian affairs, op. 1, 1666, d. No. 2, pp. 8-12. Original).”

As can be seen from the dates named in this act, the date “in the year 174 of September on the 27th day” refers both to the establishment of the Selenginsky fort and to the already existing one “at the mouth of the Uda River for the winter tribute.”

Thus, the reliably documented date of the founding of the Udin winter hut, and therefore the city of Udinsk-Verkhneudinsk (Ulan-Ude), should now be considered not 1666, but 1665. The winter hut at the mouth of the Uda River was apparently built almost simultaneously with the Selenga fort itself, in the same months of 1665 and by the same first builders.

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1. Introduction

The history of the emergence and development of the city of Ulan-Ude (formerly the city of Verkhneudinsk) is inextricably linked with the development of the territories of Transbaikalia and distant Transbaikalia by the Russian Empire, the process of annexing Buryatia to the Russian state.

Over the course of three centuries, the city of Ulan-Ude turned from a hunting winter hut into the capital of a national republic, successively overcoming a long path of administrative transformations characteristic of many Siberian cities - a winter hut, a fort, a city, the capital of the Far Eastern Republic, the capital of the Buryat-Mongolian Autonomous Republic and finally - the capital Republic of Buryatia.

Ulan-Ude is located in a picturesque location at the confluence of the Uda and Selenga rivers, on the border of forest and steppe natural zones. On the northern and southern sides the city is framed by mountains covered with coniferous forests, and to the west of it lies the vast Ivolginskaya Valley.

From the mid-18th century, the city became the administrative center of the county. It was then that the central historical core and outskirts of the city were formed with the town-planning dominants of churches and public buildings, typologically heterogeneous and stylistically diverse valuable historical buildings. There are a number of archaeological monuments on the territory of the city.

2. Founding of the city

Ulan Ude Verkhneudinsk estate development

In 1666, a detachment of servicemen under the command of the Pentecostal Gavrila Lovtsov, who equipped an expedition to return the fraternal people to the citizenship of the Moscow Tsar, descended to the mouth of the Uda and cut down a small winter hut, which was created mainly for collecting yasak. The choice at the mouth of the Uda was not accidental. The taiga, which approached the banks of the rivers, provided handy building materials and fuel, and provided opportunities for hunting fur-bearing animals. And areas free from forest, low-lying floodplain lands could be used for arable farming, haymaking, and pastures. The winter hut was the simplest defensive structure in Siberia in the 17th century.

The exact date of its foundation is unknown, but approximately it can be determined by the time between two reports of the Cossack foreman Osip Vasilyev, dated September 30, 1665 and April 27, 1666. They speak of the foundation of the Selenginsky fort and the Udinsky yasak winter hut: “... and for those New recruited foreigners were given tribute winter quarters at the mouth of the Uda River”; as well as supplying serving people with weapons, grain and other supplies.

The Uda winter hut was built on the top of a rocky cape at the mouth of the Uda, and later the Udinsky fort was erected on this site. Zimovye, according to N.V. Kim, looked like a type of winter hut common in Siberia at that time, which was, in its simplest form, a chicken hut with a flat roof made of shingles, a low door in a log house and “fiberglass” windows. The Uda winter hut is mentioned in the diary of Nikolai Spafariy, who passed through these places in 1675. He wrote: “The Uda River flows from the ridge, along which the Cossacks hunt for sable, and now at the mouth of the Uda River there is a Cossack winter hut.” The ambassador also drew attention to the need to build a fort here: “... and near the Uda River you can build a fort, and build courts, and you can find grain-producing places.”

The founding date of the Udinsky fort is also not precisely confirmed by archival documents. The first dating is derived from the data of researcher V. Girchenko, who believes that it was in 1689 that the Russian ambassador F.A. Golovin turned the Uda winter quarters into a prison. OK. Minert defines the founding date of the Udinsky fort as the period between 1677 and 1680. According to researcher N.V. Kim Udinsky fort was erected in 1678 by Ivan Porshennikov. Probably, this date should be considered the starting date, because N.V. Kim cites archival data where, according to the description of the “trading man” Isai Ostafiev Posalenov, the fort already existed in 1680, as evidenced by the document “Murals”, where he writes: “I am going from the Irkutsk fort past the Udinsky fort to Daury, to Nerchinsk and to the Albazin stockades, and with me comes the Rusyan word for imported goods...”

We find another description of the Udinsky fort in the diary of Zh.F. Gerbillon, who visited Transbaikalia in 1686-1688: “They spend three days traveling from Selenginsk to reach Lake Baikal, where the river flows. He passes through a small fort named Udinsk, which is located on the river one day’s journey from the lake.” The Udinsky fort, as follows from the documents, represented a significant link in the military-defense system of Transbaikalia; was a center for the distribution and storage of “cannon” and grain reserves; the first parties with exiled people passed through the prison. The prison was armed with artillery, the garrison was led by a Pentecostal.

Due to its advantageous geographical position on trade routes, it was also of great economic importance. In addition, with the construction of the fort, the problem of creating a point on the main trade routes with China, which began on the Angara, passed along Lake Baikal, along the Selenge and Uda rivers, was solved. Initially, the Udinsky fort was subordinated to the Selenga “man of orders”. But by 1684, the Udinsky fort had practically become an independent administrative unit, which, in addition to defensive functions, also performed economic functions.

Initially, the Udinsky fort was built on the model of the five-tower fort, which was the Selenginsky one. In 1687, the first Udinsk fort underwent reconstruction: “On the 13th day of June... it was ordered to create a city in Udinsk, and from it a hiding place to the river for water. Yes, around Udinsky and the settlements, triple large hollows of 300 on 16 fathoms were made and service people were ordered to be in every readiness.”

According to Minert L.K. The Udinsky fort had an average size, occupying a square of 40x40 fathoms. Its walls were cut down with “taras”, i.e. the structure consisted of two parallel walls, connected every 5-6 meters by transverse walls cut into them. The cells thus formed inside the walls were usually covered with earth or stones. The walls at the top were completed by a parapet-oblam with hinged loopholes of the “upper battlement”, covered with a gable roof. The fortress had five towers: four corner and one “passing” - in the middle of the western wall. The three corner towers were square in plan (3x3 fathoms); the fourth, northeastern - hexagonal with the width of the sides 3 fathoms. The towers also had “clasps” with hinged loopholes. All the towers were covered with tents, topped with watchtowers. The placement of the hexagonal tower in the northeast corner was determined by the lack of sufficient natural obstacles here. Multifaceted towers were considered more suitable for the defense of dangerous areas. The “passing” tower was larger than the others, square in plan with a direct passage. Above the walls, the quadrangle turned into an octagon, topped with a tent and a “lookout.” The defense of the gate was ensured by installing a covered balcony above it on consoles with a through floor, i.e. a technique common in wooden fortification construction of that time. In the second tier of the gate tower there was a chapel, and the gate, presumably, was “guarded,” according to tradition, by an icon case with the image of the “formidable forces of the governor of the Archangel Michael the Archangel.” Inside the walls there were several small buildings: a guard hut (4x4 fathoms), a powder magazine, a shed with artillery, and three barns. During the construction of the fortress, measures were also taken in case of a siege: they began to build a secret passage to the Uda River. But, apparently, due to the difficulty of constructing such a passage in the rocky soil of the hill and the reduction in military danger, the work was not completed. To defend the fortress there were five metal cannons (in 1735).

The above description indicates that the Udinsky fort was built using fortress construction techniques that were improved for that time. Despite the fact that during the construction of the Udinsky fort, functional and technical considerations were primarily taken into account, the structure had undoubted architectural merits. During the construction of Siberian forts, they were consciously sought after. The walls and towers were supposed not only to serve for protection, but also to evoke respect for the new authorities with their architecture, and to worthily represent the Russian state in these harsh lands. Therefore, great importance was attached to the impressive architecture of the forts, their towers, especially the entrance towers.

The diverse nature of the towers of the Udinsky fort indicated that it was built according to the model and likeness of other Siberian forts. When compared with the remains of the Yakutsk, Bratsk and other forts that have come down to us, it can be assumed that in the architecture of Udinsky, decorative elements played a modest role: they obviously boiled down to the spear-shaped processing of the ends of the roofing planks, the profiling of the ends of the log outcrops - brackets that supported the gate balcony, cutting looked at the pillars.

The laconicism of forms and expressiveness of proportions, the constructive clarity of the structure gave the architecture of the fort a stern originality. Its placement on a high natural hill gave the structure the character of an architectural monument. The powerful volume merged with the base with the strict silhouette of pointed towers was in harmony with the alarming gloominess of the harsh mountain taiga that surrounded it. This organic relationship between the character of the architecture of the Udinsky fort and natural conditions undoubtedly made a great emotional impression.

Following the construction of the fort, a settlement gradually grew below it on the coastal terrace. The inhabitants were mainly from among the Cossacks, archers, hunters, merchants and industrial people, clerks, and also peasants, as mentioned above; hence the occupation of trade, various crafts, arable farming, hunting, fishing and transportation of goods. At that time, the total number of private dwellings near the Udinsky fort consisted of only six winter huts. It should be noted that since there was no room for residential buildings inside the fort, they built not simple huts, but winter huts outside of it. The residential development near the Udinsky fort was not regulated by anyone and developed in accordance with traditions.

Due to strengthening in the 18th century. good neighborly relations and mutually beneficial ties with China and Mongolia, the Udinsk fortress completely lost its military significance. By the end of the century it served only as a prison and warehouse. The towers and walls of the fortress gradually collapsed “from rottenness” and were covered with sand. At the end of the 18th century, the Kremlin on the mountain was already in ruins.

According to published sources, the Udinsk fortress was transformed into a city in 1689, although according to some archival documents, 1690 is indicated as the year the city was founded. Nevertheless, the so-called Udinsky city was also called a fort or fortress for a long time, because in a broad sense all fortified points were called forts or fortress.

Descriptions of the Udinsky fort-city of the late 17th century have been preserved: “On the left side of the Selenga River, from the east, there is the Uda River, above it is the Udinsky city, “...” near the city there is a chapel. Posad over the mountain. On the planting of the courtyards of the tenants and Cossack huts with a hundred. There are four quadrangular towers built in the city, and the fifth one on the corner is octagonal. In the city there is a guard hut, a green cellar, and a barn above it.” This description seems to be confirmed by I. Ides, who visited Udinsk in the early spring of 1683: “And on the 19th day of March they came to the city of Udinsky, which lies on a high mountain, and strengthened by a good Kremlin. Most of the customs inhabitants live under the mountain of the Uda River, which from that place two miles to the east flowed into the Selenga rivers... This city of worship is the key to the Daurian province, and in the summer the Mungals often run away through the meadows of that place nearby and drive away the horses and take them away customs inhabitants... It was no longer possible for us to carry the sleigh further, I was forced to stay in the aforementioned city for several days, and wait until the horses and camels, as many as I needed, were found, and after fixing that, I went on April 6th ..."

The process of formation of the settlement was especially intense during the first two decades of the 18th century. In any case, the doctor John Bell, who accompanied the embassy of L.V. Izmailov to China in 1719, saw a “big city” here. I.G. Gmelin counted 116 residential buildings here in 1735 and 4 more beyond Uda. He very definitely connects the stagnation in the development of Udinsk he observed then with the movement of Russian-Chinese trade from Nerchinsky to the Selenginsky route. At the same time, I.G. Gmelin highly appreciates the other economic opportunities of the city and its environs.

Initially, individual buildings and estates occupied the coastal strip near the mountain with a fortress. Subsequently, the development expanded in the northern and western directions. The rows of estates along the banks of the Uda River closed into groups, forming the semblance of elongated blocks. Behind the coastal tracts of development, new ones were formed in the same order. Between them there were free passages - something like streets. The main streets developed parallel to the river. Ude, in the direction from the fort to Selenga. The cross streets were located less logically, which was probably the result of random circumstances. In general, the layout of Udinsk in the 18th century was distinguished by a certain organization, although the street network was whimsical, the width of the streets was variable, the buildings formed groups of estates with an area of ​​​​various configurations and sizes. Among the buildings, several free spaces stood out that performed public functions - around the Spasskaya and Odigitrievskaya churches and the market on bank of Uda. These squares did not have clear and defined boundaries and “correct” development, however, the organizing elements of their architectural space were the large volumes of churches and their tented bell towers.

Judging by the width of the estates, there were streets with two-sided buildings. Separate groups of estates of various configurations and sizes are noted. Written materials and sketches give an idea of ​​the residential buildings of this time (the first half of the 18th century). They indicate that the residential architecture of Eastern Siberia developed under the influence of the Russian North, settlers from the northern regions of Russia.

Most of the houses were built on basements with hipped steep roofs, portico and “red” windows. State-owned buildings were often combined with living quarters for service people. They were cut into basements with canopies, porches and awnings and equipped with outbuildings. They were also surrounded by high, solid fences. As the settlement - a large city - developed, roads began to be outlined in the direction of the cities of Irkutsk, Nerchinsk, Chita, which later became the main ones in the creation of the first plans for Verkhneudinsk. With the decree “On making special plans for all cities, their structures and streets for each province separately,” issued on July 25, 1763, Catherine II planned the reconstruction of all provincial cities of the Russian Empire. Verkhneudinsk was no exception and was built according to general laws. In this regard, it was envisaged to streamline the spacious estate development that had developed by that time and bring it to a plan with a regular network of streets and alleys in accordance with the principles of classicism.

3. The city of Verkhneudinsk

3.1 Planning structure

In the 30s of the 18th century, the city received the name Verkhneudinsk (despite the fact that it is located at the mouth of the Uda River, it received its name because of the city of the same name Nizhneudinsk in the Irkutsk region). In 1783, Verkhneudinsk received the status of a district (district) city - the center of the Verkhneudinsk district of the Transbaikal region. Ilyinskaya, Kabanskaya, Selenginskaya, and Kyakhtinskaya zemstvo huts were subordinated to his magistrate administration. Like all cities, Verkhneudinsk had its own coat of arms, which was supremely approved on October 26, 1790.

The planning structure of Verkhneudinsk with its blocks and streets was determined by the direction of the Selenga and Uda rivers, as well as the entrance from the Irkutsk Highway, which later became the main street of the city, completed by the Odigitrievsky Cathedral. The design breakdown of the blocks is shown on the city plan of 1798, combining the existing free buildings and the promising future layout. The plan shows that the city churches Spasskaya and Odigitrievskaya found their place in the grid of neighborhoods.

By 1810, Verkhneudinsk consisted of 19 streets: 12 in the city, 6 beyond the river. Milk yield and 1 - per r. Selengoy (settlement Poselye). The city had 4 longitudinal streets: Embankment along the river. Selenge (Bolshaya Embankment - Romanovskaya - named after A.P. Smolin); Traktovaya (Bolshaya - Bolshaya-Nikolaevskaya - named after V.I. Lenin); North-South (Losevskaya - Young Communard - named after I.V. Stalin - Communist); Spasskaya (named after M.I. Kalinin). 8 transverse ones: Embankment along Uda (Embankment); Cathedral (Pochtamtskaya - Pervomaiskaya - named after L.L. Linhovoin); Meshchanskaya (Mordovian - Buryat - named after Dorzhi Banzarov); Soldatskaya (Sennaya - Gogolevskaya - named after Ya. M. Sverdlov); Troitskaya (Policeskaya - named after V.V. Kuibyshev); Living room (Bazarnaya - Communal - named after S. M. Kirov); Yamskaya (Proezhaya - Tsentrosoyuznaya - named after N.A. Kalandarishvili); Lugovaya (Dumskaya - Sovetskaya). In the 1830s. streets appeared: Zakaltusnaya (Profsoyuznaya) and Mokroslobodskaya (Mongolskaya - named after P.S. Baltakhinov).

For r. By 1810, there were streets: Perevoznaya (Bolshaya - Central - named after I.V. Babushkin), Naberezhnaya (Mostovaya), Voznesenskaya (Proizvodstvennaya), Srednyaya (Meshchanskaya - Grazhdanskaya), Kamennaya (Podkamennaya), Kosogornaya (Stanichnaya - Krasnogvardeyskaya ).

In 1816, the Irkutsk provincial architect Ya. Kruglikov drew up a new project for Verkhneudinsk. New quarters of the project took place in the mountainous part of the city and Zaudinsky suburb. The general plan of Verkhneudinsk in 1816, executed on the principle of regular planning, in the future provided for perimeter development of blocks, with continuous buildings located along the red line of the street. Such buildings with a continuous front of decoratively designed facades were built in the middle of the 19th century. and especially towards the end of it, it was already beginning to take shape on Bolshaya Street and the main square of the city - Bazarnaya.

Reports compiled for senior officials in 1823 indicate that by this time the area of ​​built-up land in Verkhneudinsk was: under the city - 50 dessiatinas and 1000 square meters. fathoms; on the outskirts: beyond Uda - 7 dessiatines and 1800 sq. fathoms; beyond Selenga - 12 dessiatines and 1200 sq. fathoms; in addition, “under the city pasture” there were 4148 acres and 1000 square meters. fathoms. Ten years later, by 1833, the building area increased to 136 acres and 200 square meters. fathoms, mainly due to the growth of the Zadinsky suburb. This can be concluded from the number of streets indicated in the reports. In 1823 there were them in the city: longitudinal - 4, transverse - 8, alleys - 2; for r. Milk yield: longitudinal - 4, alleys - 1; for r. Selenga: longitudinal - 1. By 1833, the number of streets increased only across the river. Milk yield: Up to 5 longitudinal and 4 transverse. And by 1839, the entire area of ​​the floodplain terrace in the city, fenced by a cliff, was built up. Yes, and Zaudinsky suburb, i.e. its entire coastal part was by that time occupied by buildings. According to the plan of 1839, the total area of ​​the territories within the city limits was determined to be almost 12 thousand dessiatines. And this figure remained until the end of the 19th century.

The architectural appearance of other city streets was determined mainly by long wooden fences, interrupted by the facades of houses and entrance gates with wickets. The location of buildings and structures on his territory, their number and type, as well as the division of the estate into functional zones - all this was decided at his own discretion by the homeowner, coordinating with the city government their appearance, the general plan of the development area and the distance between buildings. A continuous requirement was that the main house be located on the red line.

In the new project proposed by the architect Sutormin (1846), it was planned to develop not only the mountainous part of the city, but also the northern part, adjacent to the Irkutsk Highway and the river. Selenge. The total building area was projected to be 340 acres. But this part of the city territory did not attract developers, since the territory of the lower river terrace satisfied them. But nevertheless, from 1833 to 1867. while the building area remained unchanged, the number of buildings in the city increased from 451 to 617, despite the natural loss of wooden buildings.

The growth of the city led to an increase in building density. The city is characterized by the residence of a relatively large number of peasants, which left a certain imprint on city life. From 1833 to 1867, the number of residential buildings in the city increased from 451 to 617. For many citizens, farming was their means of subsistence. Residents also grew vegetables and kept livestock and poultry. For example, according to statistical data in 1878, the residents of Verkhneudinsk with a total number of 4244 people had: horses 1415 heads, cattle - 1015 heads, sheep - 750 heads, pigs - 42 heads, goats - 98 heads.

The city leased land plots to residents for various periods: for 10, 12, 20 years, for 40 years with the right to extend for another 20 years, for 99 years, and also for a period that “the city council finds convenient.” The tenant had to conclude a contract with the management within two weeks. According to the paragraphs of the conditions, persons who leased plots of land from auction could build residential buildings and other structures on them, adhering to the rules of the construction charter and the current mandatory resolutions of the city duma, issued on September 12, 1879 and published in the “Zabaikalsky Regional Gazette” for that same year. Throughout the entire period, the tenant had to keep the site in constant “cleanliness and repair”, and at the end of the term, hand it over in the same form in which it was accepted. All buildings erected on the territory of the estate after the end of the lease period went to the benefit of the tenants. The owner of the plot could petition the Duma for the early purchase of ownership of the taken plot of city land. For the leased plots and the buildings built on them, the tenant was obliged to pay all taxes required by law - state and city. Rent was paid annually on two dates - January 15 and July 15. For failure to pay rent on time, the city government had the right to sell the contents of the city land at auction to other persons. In case of delay, the tenant was obliged to pay a penalty to the council in the amount of the annual rent, and the land became the property of the council.

Plots of city land were also sold for eternal and hereditary ownership; For this purpose, auctions were scheduled in the presence of the city government on certain days. One of the paragraphs of the conditions for sale recalled that “persons not belonging to the residents of the city of Verkhneudinsk were required to present to the city government forms of their right to reside in it before the start of the auction.”

In 1876, the poll tax was replaced by a tax on the real estate of all owners. To collect an assessment fee in favor of the city, a fee was set at 1% of the value of the property. For non-payment of tax, the police department described the movable property of the homeowner, and on the basis of the article of the charter on industrial tax, the property described from “arrears was sold at auction.” The proceeds from the auction went to the city. The execution of this procedure was entrusted to the police supervisor. By the day of the auction, the described items were delivered to a cell located at the Verkhneudinsk district police department (now Lenin St., 13). Here an auction and sale of movable property seized from citizens for non-payment of their arrears was held. As a rule, the perpetrators tried to introduce arrears into the city government without going through with the sale of the property. Arrears were collected from all debtors regardless of their position. By the way, members of the city government were often included in their number.

The approval of plans and facades of private buildings, the issuance of permits for reconstruction and the supervision of the proper use of buildings in cities, according to the city regulations of June 16, 1870, was left to city councils. When developing the acquired plots, the user wrote an application to the city government, attaching a development plan for the estate in two copies, where he asked for permission to build the newly proposed buildings, taking into account the existing ones. The plan was reviewed by the city council and a decision was made. Construction was permitted subject to compliance with the development plan, building regulations and legally binding regulations and rules.

The city government could allow the construction of a stone building, but with the condition that a wooden one be demolished on this site or separated from another building by a firewall. It was not allowed to make windows and slope the roof into their yard without the consent of the neighbors. If this rule was violated, the neighbors sought through the city government that “the windows made were sealed tightly into a solid wall.” The military governor of the Transbaikal region, Ilyashevich, in his circular dated April 30, 1881, suggested that the Verkhneudinsk city government, “in the form of eliminating evil,” submit plans submitted for approval to the city architect or persons performing this position for hire, and ordered the police department to strictly monitor the exact implementation of the rules construction regulations and regulations issued by the City Duma.

Second half of the 19th century. characterized by a complicated planning structure of buildings and rich decoration of facades in the form of sawn and relief carvings. At this time, open galleries and verandas on carved pillars, facing the street with a main entrance under a canopy, became widespread in Verkhneudinsk. The canopies were usually supported by carved wooden or wrought iron brackets. The roofs of houses and entrance gates, chimneys and drainpipes were decorated with expanded iron. They continued to build houses with mezzanines as before. The mezzanine was complemented by a balcony from the main and courtyard facades. Additional volumes of canopies and closets began to adjoin the courtyard. The facades of many houses were covered with rustic boards. Window frames, friezes and cornices of houses were decorated with carvings, and overlaid carvings began to appear on the blades of the protruding ends of the walls. Wooden houses with plastered facades and imitation of the architectural profiles of stone architecture were also built, which was included in some projects.

3.2 Estate development in Verkhneudinsk

From that time on, the main planning element of the city became a block built around the perimeter, but sometimes small houses - outbuildings - were also located inside the blocks. A two-story stone house facing the corner of the main street and Troitskaya (Lenin St., 13) and a small one-story stone outbuilding (Lenin St., 15) built in 1801-1804. at the expense of the Verkhneudinsk tradesman D.M. Pakholkov, are among the earliest stone buildings in Verkhneudinsk. The territory of the Pakholkov estate was divided into two unequal parts. The largest of them was occupied by the front yard with the indicated buildings, and the second was the back yard, where the vegetable garden and buildings for livestock were located. The territory of the estate, with an area of ​​676 square fathoms, occupied a third of the length of the quarter and more than half of its width. The wooden buildings on the site, built at the same time as the two-story and one-story stone houses, included an outbuilding, a delivery house, a barn, a bathhouse, and a shed with a stable. In 1810, the buildings, along with the land plot, were sold to the treasury, and the main two-story building housed government offices, the district and zemstvo courts, the city police, and the district treasury.

On the main street of the city - Bolshaya, estates of all classes living in the city were represented; there was no social isolation observed. The estates of merchants, townspeople, clergy, peasants, Cossacks, and settlers were adjacent to each other, although the buildings themselves gave an idea of ​​the material wealth of the owners. Among the listed estates, merchant houses are impressive in their size. These are mostly two-story, with shops on the ground floor and living quarters on the second. Their facades stretched along the street for considerable distances and stood out among the estates of other classes.

Due to the large number of outbuildings, the estate of the merchant of the 1st guild Pyotr Dmitrievich Losev on Losevskaya Street (now Kommunisticheskaya) is of interest. The estate included a two-story house (the lower floor is stone, the upper floor is wooden), the same outbuilding, and one stone outbuilding. A stone building with seven trading shops and outbuildings: a two-story stone building with storerooms and rooms and a guardhouse. The wooden outbuildings included: a laundry and a bathhouse, a two-story building with barns, a delivery room with barns, a delivery room, a drying room, a living room, a hayloft with a stable, a cellar with a delivery room. The cost of the property was estimated at 28 thousand rubles.

Estate of honorary citizen Apollon Kurbatov on the street. Bolshoy (Lenin St.) occupied an elongated estate, stretching the entire width of the block, with access to the street. Bolshaya Embankment (Smolina St.). There was a stone one-story house with a mezzanine, with a warm basement underneath; stone one-story outbuilding. Stone outbuildings: four barns, one carriage house, two cellars, a delivery house, a storeroom with a basement. Wooden outbuildings: a one-story kitchen, a bathhouse on a stone foundation, three wooden barns and a hayloft. The cost of buildings is 10 thousand rubles. A distinctive feature of this estate was its unusual configuration - an extended length with a small width. But this narrow and long section facing the street. Bolshaya Embankment was built practically.

The estate with wooden buildings on the site and the main stone house (wooden second floor - Lenina St., 15) facing equal facades to the main street and Sennaya (Sverdlov St.), in 1874 belonged to the Verkhneudinsk 2nd guild merchant Vasily Mashanov. The outbuildings included: two barns, a delivery house, a cellar, a bathhouse, a hayloft and a kitchen. The buildings were damaged in a fire in 1878, and the second wooden floor of the main two-story house burned down.

A large estate, stretching along the entire block from Sennaya (Sverdlova St.) to Troitskaya (Kuibysheva St.) in 1874, was occupied by the Kyakhta merchant Feoktistia Ivanovna Novikova. The list of the owner of the estate already included a stone two-story house, the main one on the territory (Lenin St., 20). The first floor of this house was occupied by four retail shops, a wine cellar with a basement. In the courtyard there is a stone one-story kitchen. The wooden buildings included: a kitchen with a bathhouse, two barns, two delivery yards and a hayloft with a stable. Later, the estate passed to a new owner - commerce advisor, cavalier and hereditary honorary citizen Tarsky, the first guild merchant Yakov Andreevich Nemchinov.

The two-story stone house on the corner of Bolshaya (Lenin St.) and Troitskaya (Kuibysheva St.) on the site allocated by the Verkhneudinsk commandant’s office on February 26, 1786, was built by the first owner of the estate, merchant Andreyan Titov, in 1795 and is one of the earliest stone buildings in Verkhneudinsk (Lenin St., 11). In the lists of house owners for 1874, and at that time it belonged to a new owner - Verkhneudinsk merchant Matvey Nikolaevich Zharov, it is said: “... in the house there are three trading shops and a storage room. Of the outbuildings for this period there were: three barns, a kitchen, a delivery barn, a hayloft and two cellars.”

According to the list of house owners for 1874, there were no stone buildings (Lenin St., 17 and 19) at that time. Here stood wooden one-story buildings of the heir of the merchant Ivan Alekseevich Naletov - a one-story house, three barns and a delivery house. From the early history of the development of this estate it is known that according to the serfdom deed executed at the serf affairs of the Verkhneudinsk district court, from September 20, 1826 to 1835, it was owned by “state councilor and gentleman Nikolai Stepanov, son of Losev.” And on September 29, 1835 N.S. Losev gives a deed of sale and sells his estate to the new owner - the Verkhneudinsk first guild “merchant son” Alexei Grigorievich Naletov Sr. The territory of the estate, which was located in the parish of the Cathedral Church of the Virgin Mary, “with a length of twenty-nine and a diameter of twenty-six fathoms with a house and outbuildings,” was sold to A.G. Naletov for 4 thousand in state banknotes. Until 1862, the place was owned by his son, Verkhneudinsk merchant of the second guild Ivan Alekseevich Naletov. Since May 13, 1874, the estate has been owned by its heir, Verkhneudinsky tradesman Alexey Ivanovich Naletov, who at that time was under guardianship until he came of age. And since 1893, the composition of the buildings on the estate was changed by its new owner - the peasant of the Mukhorshibir volost, Agafangel Andreevich Mostovsky. In place of the wooden houses, an elongated one-story stone building is being built, stretching from the stone one-story guardhouse building (Lenin St., 15) to the trade shops of the tradesman Samsonovich (Lenin St., 21). In 1894, this building was already listed as existing. Its premises included retail shops facing the main street. At the beginning of the twentieth century. homeowner of the estate A.A. Mostovskoy rented out the retail premises of the house to the partnership “Vtorov A.F. and sons”, where various shops were located.

In 1874, on the estate of the former peasant of the Mukhorshibirsky volost L.A. Samsonovich's buildings were mostly wooden - a one-story house, an unfinished stone outbuilding, four warm wooden benches with storage rooms. Of the outbuildings: a kitchen, a bathhouse, two two-story barns, two imports, a barn and a hayloft. The two-story stone house on the corner (Kirova, 23) is the main house on the estate, which was formed towards the end of the 19th century. According to the project of 1876, a two-story stone house will be added to the main corner house with benches on the side of Bazarnaya Street (Kirova Street). According to the drawing made in 1885, a second floor will be built over the stone outbuilding (Kirova St., 28) and a stone shop with a basement (Lenin St., 21). The trading premises of the estate were rented out to the owners.

In 1874 and earlier, on the corner of Bolshaya (Lenin St.) and Bazarnaya (Kirova St.) there was an estate of the peasant of the Kuitun village Semyon Fedorovich Borisov. At this time, on a plot of land with sides measuring 30 fathoms, there was a wooden one-story house on the corner, outbuildings, one of which was two-story (stone bottom, wooden top), and the other one-story wooden, and two stone shops with living rooms. The outbuildings included: a stone storeroom, a wooden bathhouse, three two-story barns, a hayloft, a delivery barn and a stone cellar.

As of 1884 This territory is owned by the peasant woman of the Kuitun village (she is also temporarily the Verkhneudinsk merchant of the 2nd guild) Tatyana Borisova. On her estate we see a corner stone two-story house with retail stores on the ground floor, a semi-stone outbuilding (Kirova St., 33), four warm stone benches with storage rooms. From stone outbuildings: pantry, cellar. The wooden ones include a bathhouse, three two-story barns, a hayloft and a delivery barn. It should be noted that the Borisovs owned this place before the nationalization of property (the last heirs were the peasants Ankudin Semenovich and Pyotr Semenovich Borisov). At the beginning of the 20th century, an electric theater was opened here - an illusion, which was the predecessor of the Erdem cinema.

On the corner plot of the northern side of Bazarnaya Square (at the corner of Lenin and Kirov) the estate of the Verkhneudinsk tradesman Nikolai Sotnikov was located. In 1874, there were only wooden buildings on its territory: a one-story house with four warm shops with living rooms. Outbuildings include a kitchen with a bathhouse, five barns, a delivery barn and a hayloft. In 1886, the new owner of the estate, the sergeant of the Verkhneudinsk village Innokenty Ilyich Menshikov, built one-story stone shops here. In 1877, a building with retail shops was completed to the corner of Bolshaya and Bazarnaya (Lenina St., 24), (the second floor of the building is wooden, it was added in 1924). Construction of a stone retail space begins on the street. Big (now there are shops here). In the 1900s here, in a corner building, an illusion theater was opened.

In 1874, the estate of the heirs of honorary citizen Apollo Kurbatov consisted of a stone one-story house with a mezzanine and a warm basement (Lenin St., 27). The stone outbuildings included: four barns, one carriage house, two cellars, a delivery house, and a storeroom with a basement. The wooden buildings include a kitchen, a bathhouse, three barns and a hayloft. A distinctive feature of this estate is its large length with a small width. It is documented that this place was owned by the honorary citizen of Verkhneudinsk Apollo Mitrofanovich Kurbatov from October 23, 1819, according to the act of serfdom, committed in the former Irkutsk chamber of the civil court. Traveler Alexy Martos wrote about the main house of this estate in 1824: “The house of the merchant Kurbatov of pure architecture with a regular portico is one of the best buildings in the city.

In 1875, the estate was sold to the Nerchinsk 1st Guild merchants Mikhail and Nikolai Dmitriev Butin. This is how the heirs of A.M. disposed of their estate. Kurbatova. The new owners, the Nerchinsk merchants of the 1st guild, the Butin brothers (“Trading House of the Butin Brothers”), are adding to the number of outbuildings by building a stone wine cellar of quite impressive size (the building has been preserved). At the beginning of the 20th century, the estate on Bolshaya Street changed its owners. In the lists of homeowners since 1905, its owner is the merchant Alexander Kuzmich Kobylkin. Hereditary honorary citizen A.K. Kobylkin was the owner of a brewery, a glass-making plant and a plant of artificial mineral waters, located on Batareinaya Square.

The main house of the estate (27 Lenina St.) is one of the few buildings in the city built according to the 1809 albums “The Highest Proven Facades.” The building has survived to this day with significant modifications. In the 1950s The four-column Corinthian portico was dismantled, the second floor was built on, and subsequently the stucco frieze of the mezzanine and decorative chimneys on the roof pipes were lost.

The estate of State Councilor Khaminov is on the opposite side of the main street. In 1874, there were mainly wooden buildings here - a house with a mezzanine and an outbuilding. In addition to these buildings, in the yard there was a vodka factory and a wholesale wine warehouse, “lined” with stone, a kitchen, a bathhouse, two barns, two delivery yards and a hayloft. There was a drinking establishment in the wing. In 1879, the estate with all the buildings passed to a new owner - Irkutsk merchant of the 1st guild Ivan Flegontovich Goldobin. According to the project of 1888, the new owner built the main one-story house with mezzanines (Lenina St., 26), a stone outbuilding (facing Lenin St.), and a vodka factory building with a basement (not preserved), while the previous wooden buildings were dismantled. The drawing of 1890 shows a plan for the final reconstruction of the outbuildings of the estate of the Verkhneudinsk 1st guild merchant I.F. Goldobin, formed by the end of the 19th century

Since the 1900s, the estate has been registered with the wife of Lieutenant General Kukel, Elizaveta Ivanovna. E.I. Kukel as well as her ex-husband I.F. Goldobin, was engaged in charity work for the needs of the city. The drawing of 1881 shows how the land plot, with its northern side, adjoined the neighboring estate, while between the fences the owners left a gap in the form of a neutral corridor 4 fathoms wide, where, according to the article of the building charter, any development was prohibited.

On the estate of Selenga merchant Alexandra Anepodistovna Truneva, located on the opposite side of the main street in 1874 and earlier, the buildings were wooden: a two-story house on the corner, a one-story outbuilding. Two barns, a bathhouse, a kitchen, three delivery rooms, a cellar and two haylofts. According to the project of 1882, a two-story stone building is being built on the estate, with the main facade facing the street. I'm passing through (Kalandarashvili).

According to drawings made in 1884, one-story stone shops in two cells will be built instead of a wooden outbuilding, facing the street. Bolshaya (location of the left wing of the house on Lenin Street, 29). According to the 1889 drawing, a second floor is being built above the existing stone benches, forming the left wing of the building. The right wing of the house was completed to the corner of the square in the first decade of the 20th century, repeating the decorative plasticity of the facade of the left wing.

The land plot where the “house with Atlantes” was later built (Lenin St., 30), in 1874 and earlier, belonged to the Cossack Luka Budunov. Here, on its territory, there were quite modest wooden buildings: the main one-story house and an outbuilding. The only outbuildings were a winter hut and a barn. At the beginning of the first decade of the 20th century. The new owner of the estate, tradesman Naftoliy Leontievich Kapelman, will build a stone two-story house here with a front facade on the main street. The building, with elements of eclecticism characteristic of this time, was built in the shortest possible time from June 2 to October 5, 1907. The lower floor was rented out by the owner for a tea shop, a pastry shop, and a coffee shop. On September 12, 1912, a partnership was registered in this building with the name “Commercial, Industrial and Commission Office of N.L. Kapelman and Kє". Under the company "Transbaikalia". In the same year, a partnership will be organized here under the company “N.L. Timber Industry Partnership.” Kapelman and G.I. Vinevich."

Among the estates of Nagornaya Square, the territory of the merchant son Samuil Iosievich Rosenstein with the main three-story house on the corner of Bolshaya and Novo-Spasskaya (Sukhe-Bator St., 16) deserves attention. From the history of the development of this place, the following can be noted. According to the drawing of the master plan of the estate, completed in 1901, the one-story wooden buildings expected for that year were built - an outbuilding, a delivery room and a gate. In a relatively short time, the main stone building of the estate will be built on the site of wooden buildings. This can be seen by reading the newspaper “Verkhneudinsky leaf” for 1905, where the Oriental Institute was opened that year and existed for a short time. From 1909 it would house a public meeting.

Along the Uda Embankment, the estate of settlers Yankel and Davyd Reifovich deserves attention. Here in 1874 there was a wooden one-story house (it housed a drinking establishment). The outbuildings included two barns and a shed.

In 1874, the estate of the heirs of the clerk Iokif Lavoshnikov was located on the corner of Bolshaya and Pochtamtskaya (Linhovoina Street). On its territory there was a wooden two-story house and a wooden outbuilding. On the 3rd Mordovskaya Street from Uda (Banzarov Street) the estate of the peasant Innokenty Bayankin was located. Here in 1874 there was a wooden one-story house on the corner of Mordovskaya and Spasskaya (Kalinina Street), with two wooden one-story outbuildings. Outbuildings: two barns and a bathhouse. The estate of the heirs of the tradesman Alexander Burlakov for the same year consisted of a wooden one-story house. Of the outbuildings: a winter hut, a bathhouse, four barns, two imports, a hayloft and two sheds. In the courtyard on the other side of the street there were buildings of the tradesman Mikhail Masterov: a wooden one-story old house with two outbuildings. The outbuildings included: a bathhouse, two barns, a delivery barn, two haylofts and a cellar.

On Bazarnaya Street (Kirova St., 37), the estate of the Verkhneudinsk tradesman Yakov Rubinstein occupied a large area and had its main façade facing Bazarnaya Square. Here in 1874 there was a stone two-story house (it had two shops). Attached to it is a wooden bench, three separate wooden benches with storage areas. The house is wooden on a stone foundation, it has two trading shops, above them a mezzanine, a wooden one-story outbuilding, a kitchen, a bathhouse with a kitchen, ten barns, two imports, a hayloft and a cellar.

There are literally only a few surviving estates with surviving buildings. Among them is the estate of the Verkhneudinsk tradesman Burlakov N.N., to some extent a typical example of a petty-bourgeois estate of the late 19th - early 20th centuries. The building site has a rectangular outline, with dimensions of 21 fathoms along the street. Bazarnaya (Kirova St.) and 15 fathoms on the street. Big Embankment. Here you can see the division of the territory into the front yard and the back yard. At the front was the main house, occupying a corner place, with an outbuilding set back from it 6 fathoms along Bazarnaya Street; from the outbuilding at a distance of 4.5 fathoms there is a kitchen with a bathhouse and a well. On the opposite side of the front yard there were two barns and a delivery house (in the same volume), with a basement under them. Nearby there is a small skating rink (apparently for children) and a toilet. In the backyard: an open shed, a flock, a barn, a hayloft. Not far from the importation, rowan bushes grew, there was also a vegetable garden, a weed dump, a greenhouse, and a shelter. The front and back yards were separated by a fence. There were two entrances to the estate through gates from Bolshaya Embankment and Bazarnaya. The only buildings that have survived to this day are the main house, an outbuilding, and a two-story barn with a storage shed.

The Cossack estates in Zaudinsky Suburb were more modest. It mainly housed a wooden one-story house, a bathhouse and a barn.

Urban development was not always carried out in compliance with the rules of the building regulations; there were also violations.

Thus, the Verkhneudinsk district police department made a remark to the Verkhneudinsk townspeople Roman and Gleb Panteleev (at the corner of Bolshaya and Zakaltusnaya), who were building a trading store on their estate with deviations from the facade and plan. The owners increased the dimensions of the building in length and width, which resulted in an illegal separation from the residential building located on the estate, i.e. less than four fathoms.

The petition from the Cossack of the Verkhneudinsk village Tivurtiya Gorbunov to the Verkhneudinsk district police department spoke of the construction of a hayloft on a neighboring estate next to Gorbunov’s fence, which was also a violation of one of the clauses of the construction regulations.

The developers were given instructions such as: “...to the tradesman Y.M. Rubinshtein, the Verkhneudinsk city government allows the addition of a stone building, but with the condition that the building on the basis of Art. 352. Construction Charter 1857 was separated from the existing building by a firewall, and the wooden building was to be demolished or separated from the building by a firewall, and on the basis of Articles 445 and 446. X volume 1 of the law, ed. 1857, windows and a roof slope into the courtyard of the tradesman Sotnikov should not be made at the proposed building without the consent of the neighbors.” Or “... so that in the proposed extension to the building he does not make windows into my yard and does not add roofs so that water flows from it into my yard, and also from the roof of the existing house he attaches drainpipes or gutters and seals the made windows tightly into a solid wall . Otherwise, I can act according to the law on the basis of Article 447. X volume 1 part ed. 1857...”

The great fire that occurred on June 10, 1878 destroyed more than three-quarters of the city's buildings. The townspeople restored their houses within two years. Already on August 2, 1878, a circular from the Ministry of Internal Affairs was issued, signed by the manager, State Secretary L. Makov, addressed to the military governor of the Transbaikal region. It contained a list of mandatory precautions. Here are just a few of the points relating to the development of the main street. “The front houses along the main streets should be covered with iron, and the outbuildings along these streets and houses in other areas of the city, depending on the condition of the homeowners, with iron, planks or straw dipped in thickly dissolved clay...” “The construction of any kind of wooden buildings on courtyard areas with less than 10 fathoms along the street is certainly prohibited.” “Poor residents who have long owned small-sized places (less than 10 fathoms along the street) are allowed to repair dilapidated houses each time only at the discretion of the city duma.” “In the courtyard areas surrounding the Cathedral Square, all buildings must be made of stone, and therefore it is prohibited to repair the existing outbuildings and wooden outbuildings there.”

There were also violations during the restoration of buildings. Thus, the Verkhneudinsk mayor on December 17, 1878 writes to members of the City Council, “...on buildings burned out in the fire on June 10 in the city of Verkhneudinsk and other places, buildings of ordinary people are being erected without observing the rules of the Construction Charter, Article 361, and some without the permission of the City Council in disgust 114 Art. City situation. And therefore, in the construction of incorrect buildings, I humbly ask you, Sirs, upon receipt of this, to inspect all the buildings erected in the city of Verkhneudinsk and, in case of observed deviations, together with a police official, draw up appropriate acts in order to hold the perpetrators accountable.” The City Government also took a large part in providing assistance to fire victims.

A report was preserved in the presence of the Verkhneudinsk City Council dated June 21, 1878, which noted that “... taking into account several statements from people whose houses burned down during the fire on June 10, the City Council, in view of the necessary support for the Welfare of the residents deprived of their last shelter affected by the fire and on the basis of the circular of the Ministry of Internal Affairs dated July 16, 1871 No. 6496, asks for permission to allow the above-mentioned buildings, so that everyone who wants to build on the left side of the areas they own will have a four-fathom gap from the neighbor who owns the place.”

There is the following record about the construction of firewalls by city residents at this time: “... I, the undersigned widow, second lieutenant Matryona Mikhailovna Leontyeva, gave this signature to the Verkhneudinsk City Council that in order to protect against an accident against the two-story hayloft being built on the land that belongs to me, I am obliged to put up on both sides , i.e. from the place of the merchant Ovsyankin against the importation of a stone firewall that belongs to me...” And her neighbor, Verkhneudinsk merchant of the 2nd guild, Alexander Ivanovich Ovsyankin, in turn, gives a subscription to M.M. Leontyeva, where he guarantees to make an indentation from his barns and import two fathoms from the two-story barn. On the estate of the merchant Ovsyankin, it was proposed to reduce the canopy at the outbuilding to a four-foot gap from the newly proposed house (now existing on the corner of Kommunisticheskaya and Sverdlova streets).

In the same case, there is an announcement from the Cossack of the Verkhneudinsk village, Tivurtiya Gorbunov, where he complains about his neighbor, the Cossack Vasily Gaskov, that he built two haylofts and a drinking establishment at a distance of less than 4 fathoms from his house.

After the fire, a circular dated April 30, 1881 was issued on compliance with building rules, where the administration showed interest “...whether the specified gaps are observed in the designed construction” and prescribes that the length of a wooden building should be no more than 12 fathoms, whether there are gaps between stone buildings in two fathoms, and between the wooden ones - 4 fathoms, and so that from the left border of the yard there are 4 fathoms, and from the rear - two fathoms. “Is it intended to install firewalls dividing stone buildings into parts less than 12 fathoms in length, as well as when constructing wooden buildings on inter-ownership....”

Developers were punished for failure to comply with a mandatory resolution of the City Duma. So “...in view of the fact that between Kulikova’s house and the building of the five shops belonging to her there is only an eight-yard gap, allow Menshikov to cover three shops with planks from the boundary of the merchant Rubinstein so that the remaining two shops near Kulikova’s house as not having from him the mandatory decree established in §40 The city council’s six-fathom gap was immediately broken by the force of §45 of the same resolution.” In 1902, changes were made to the mandatory resolutions of the City Duma on gaps between wooden buildings of up to six fathoms. In 1907, the City Duma passed a mandatory resolution “...on the prohibition of the construction of porches protruding into the streets and on the establishment of a payment to the city revenue for the land occupied by the porches.”

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