There was a smell of fried phraseology. It smelled like something was fried.

January 18, 2018 A joint event of the School of Common Sense, the Club of Comrades of the Military Institute of Foreign Languages ​​of the Red Army (VIIYA KA), the Moscow Club of the Values ​​of the Nation and the National Interests of Russia took place.

Topic: About capturing the future.

Speaker: DEVYATOV ANDREY PETROVICH, founder of the worldview School of Heavenly Politics, teacher of the School of Common Sense, permanent deputy director of the Institute of Russian-Chinese interaction, internationalist warrior of the USSR, member of the Russian Writers' Union.

What to fry food on? Which is better – vegetable oil or animal fat and why? What is released when fats are heated and is palm oil really that bad? Let's figure it out together with Marina Vilkova– working as a holistic medicine specialist and consultant in nutrition and supplementation, graduate of the Canadian School of Natural Nutrition.

We have already written that from the point of view of traditional cultures and oils, the most preferable for frying are oils and fats with a high content of saturated (SFA - saturated fatty acids) and monounsaturated (MUFA - monounsaturated fatty acids) fatty acids, due to their resistance to oxidation . Unlike polyunsaturated (PUFA) fats (Omega-3 and Omega-6 acids belong to this group), SFA and MUFA fats do not form free radicals when heated, provided that the heating temperature is lower than the smoke point of the oil/fat .

In short, it is best to fry in animal fats (pork, beef, goose, lamb fat or ghee) or coconut oil - these have the highest percentages of SFA and MUFA and the lowest percentages of PUFA. Chicken fat is less desirable as it again has a high percentage of PUFA. Avocado and olive oils contain a high percentage of MUFA, so they can in principle also be considered low-temperature heating oils. But the first of the above oils and fats are still more stable. Therefore, for vegans and those who are concerned about the quality of meat products, the best choice is coconut oil and avocado oil. Of course, if the budget and the nature of the dish allows.

Olive, unfortunately, is very often counterfeited, almost mixed with corn. Moreover, this happens in all countries and does not depend on the brand. This is another reason not to heat it: if the oil is fake, then it will contain a high percentage of PUFA. Let us repeat, free radicals formed as a result of oxidative processes when heating oil can damage cell membranes and even DNA molecules. And yet, if you choose olive oil, choose organic - it certainly won’t be counterfeited.

Let's go through the main oils available for purchase and see which ones can be used for frying and which ones should not be used.

PUFA content in vegetable oils and animal fats (%):

Vegetable oils

Coconut oil

Contains a large amount of saturated fatty acids, stable during storage and heating. Contains MFT (Medium Chain Triglycerides) which benefits from being easy to digest, easy to absorb and helps in balancing hormones and metabolism.

• 2% MUFA
• 6% PUFA
• 1% SFA

Conclusion: Unrefined extra virgin oil can become a staple cooking oil

Palm (red) oil (Red / Palm oil)

We are talking about natural, non-hydrogenated oil. Cheap, industrially produced palm oil is extracted using the same chemical solvents used to extract rapeseed oil, making it unsuitable for consumption.

High-quality palm oil, extracted using traditional methods, has completely different properties: it contains a high percentage of saturated fats, and therefore is resistant to oxidation and heat.

Contains coenzyme Q10, vitamin E, carotenoids. Supports the immune system and reduces inflammation.

• 39% MUFA
• 11% PUFA
• 50% SFA

Conclusion: high-quality traditional oil is recommended for food. Can be used for frying.

Avocado oil

The composition is similar to olive oil. It has a higher smoke point, which is why it is often recommended as a cooking oil. The composition is quite resistant to oxidation. As part of paleophilosophy, it is not recommended to heat it, like most vegetable oils.

• 70% MUFA
• 12% Omega-6 PUFA
• 1% Omega-3 PUFA
• 12% SFA

Conclusion: Can be used in salads as an alternative to olive oil. Can be used for frying.

Walnut oil

Pleasant to the taste. Contains large amounts of Omega-6.

• 23% MUFA
• 53% Omega-6 PUFA
• 10% Omega-3 PUFA
• 9% SFA

Conclusion: oil is not for every day. High Omega-6 content. It can add a “zest” to the salad, but it should not be heated.

Macadamia Nut Oil

• 71% MUFA
• 10% PUFA
• 12% SFA

Conclusion: good for salads, fairly balanced in composition. You can use it to make mayonnaise. Can be used for frying. The only problem is the price.

Sesame Seed oil

It has a pronounced taste and smell, especially if made from roasted seeds. Contains high levels of PUFA but is also rich in antioxidants which helps minimize oxidation.

• 43% MUFA
• 43% PUFA
• 14% SFA

Conclusion: Not for regular use. It is an essential component of Asian cuisine recipes, but it is advisable to add it to food at the end of cooking and not use it as a frying oil.

Peanut butter

Due to its high content, MUFA is more temperature stable than most vegetable oils, but the percentage of PUFA in it is quite high.

• 46% MUFA
• 32% PUFA
• 17% SFA

Sunflower Seed oil

Very high PUFA content in Omega-6 form.

• 19% MUFA
• 63% PUFA
• 10% SFA

Conclusion: Do not heat.

Mark Sisson, author of the blog Mark's Daily Apple, claims that sunflower oil is tasteless and odorless - he has apparently tried the refined version. It is not recommended for use even in salads by many supporters of the paleo diet due to its high Omega-6 content.

Supporters of traditional diets treat it more leniently and believe that it is acceptable in the diet from time to time if the diet is sufficiently balanced. Contains vitamin E and lecithin.

All of the above applies to unrefined oil. Refining is done using heat, solvents, bleaching and other chemical processes that reduce the nutritional value of the oil and damage its structure. Despite the fact that the smoke point of refined oil is 232 C, which is much higher than that of unrefined oil, it should not be fried and its use in food should be avoided.

Safflower oil

To be honest, I have never even held this oil in my hands. Contains a high percentage of PUFA and Omega-6.

• 14% MUFA
• 75% PUFA
• 6% SFA

Conclusion: avoid.

I did not include soybean, rapeseed, corn and cottonseed oils in the list for the reasons described

Smells like fried Prost. Express About the impending danger. - That’s the splinter,” interjected the old guy. - Nikolashka and the whole pack of them, although their minds are worn out, they can still smell when it smells fried. They feel that we will not forgive them for their poverty, we will not forgive their hungry mouths, our illnesses(M. Yudalevich. Fifth year).

Phraseological dictionary of the Russian literary language. - M.: Astrel, AST. A. I. Fedorov. 2008.

See what “Smells like fried” is in other dictionaries:

smells fried- how long until trouble?, it smells like gunpowder, it’s not far from trouble, it’s risky, it smells like kerosene, it’s dangerous Dictionary of Russian synonyms. smells like fried adverb, number of synonyms: 9 it smells like kerosene... Synonym dictionary

Smells fried- Razg. You can expect an unpleasant, dangerous development of the situation. BTS, 300; BMS 1998, 182 183; F 2, 36; SPP 2001, 39 ... Large dictionary of Russian sayings

smells fried- see fried... Dictionary of many expressions

smells like gunpowder- adverb, number of synonyms: 7 the thing smells of kerosene (8) trouble is not far away (7) ... Synonym dictionary

smells fried- 1) About impending danger, a premonition of trouble. It's time to go home, it smells like something is fried. 2) What is it about? profitable, tempting. He is always where it is profitable, where it smells like something fried... Dictionary of many expressions

it smells like kerosene- smells fried, dangerous, trouble is not far away, risky, smells like gunpowder, how long until trouble? Dictionary of Russian synonyms. the thing smells like kerosene adverb, number of synonyms: 8 trouble is not far away (7) ... Synonym dictionary

smell- verb., nsv., used. often Morphology: I smell, you smell, he/she/it smells, we smell, you smell, they smell, smell, smell, smelled and smelled, smelled, smelled, smelled, smelled, smelled and smelled 1. If an object, a person , plant, animal smells,... ... Dmitriev's Explanatory Dictionary

fried- oh, oh. Prepared by frying. Hot potatoes. J. chicken. Well done pies. ◊ It smells fried. 1. About impending danger, a premonition of trouble. It's time to go home, it smells like something is fried. 2. What is it about? profitable, tempting. He is always where it is profitable... ... encyclopedic Dictionary

trouble is not far away- risky, smells of gunpowder, the matter smells of kerosene, how long before trouble?, smells fried, dangerous Dictionary of Russian synonyms. trouble is not far away adverb, number of synonyms: 7 it smells like kerosene... Synonym dictionary

How long until trouble?- risky, dangerous, smells like gunpowder, smells fried, trouble is not far away, it smells like kerosene Dictionary of Russian synonyms. How long until trouble? adverb, number of synonyms: 7 the thing smells like kerosene... Synonym dictionary

Books

• A week of seven Fridays, Daria Kalinina, Inna was not at all surprised, she was only frightened when she saw a wounded young man on the back stairs of her house. He handed Inna a small bag and in a weakening voice asked her... Category: Ironic detective stories Publisher:

Heart, skin, stomach... Usually this happens due to a misunderstanding of what then happens in the body. But scientists have proven that with prolonged heating above 200 degrees, any oil completely decomposes. This produces a huge amount of harmful substances.

In addition to the nutritional value of products, their heat treatment is also of great importance for health. This question is important for everyone and concerns absolutely everyone.

Scientists have long identified and proven a connection between cooking methods and exacerbations of skin diseases. In particular, psoriasis, eczema, neurodermatitis, as well as acne, seborrheic dermatitis, etc. The main rule is to avoid fried foods! By the way, this also applies to patients with disorders of the gastrointestinal tract, suffering from autoimmune, cardiovascular diseases, etc.

Research by nutritionists has shown that the only vegetable oil that is always welcome in the kitchen is olive oil (extra vergine). It is useful to add to salads and vinaigrettes; you can bake (for example, fish) in this oil, but at a temperature of no more than 200 degrees. It is also permissible to fry something briefly.

Refined olive oil is more or less suitable for long-term frying. True, you will not get any benefit from it, but the harm will be much less than from sunflower or corn. Experts attribute this to the fact that olive oil is dominated by monounsaturated omega-9 fats with a high oxidation “bar.” And sunflower and corn contain less healthy omega-6 polyunsaturated fats.

Still, long-term frying is best avoided altogether. In order for polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fats to properly perform their role in the body, they should not be heated. Consumption of thermally processed vegetable oils does not provide the body with the necessary building material for proper and healthy functioning, but only causes harm.

Alas, oils and fats do not tolerate intense heat treatment. Under the influence of high temperatures, they oxidize, producing a huge amount of carcinogens and free radicals, which trigger many pathological reactions in the body.

Fried foods have an extremely negative effect on the liver. They provoke metabolic disorders, contribute to the development of atherosclerosis, cancer, diseases of the nervous and immune systems, skin diseases... It is not for nothing that Paul Bragg spoke about this: “Your death is boiling in the frying pans.”

Therefore, try to saute the products for a short time. For example, you can quickly fry fish fillets (extra vergine oil is suitable). According to dermatologists, a crispy, fried crust for patients with skin diseases, especially psoriasis, is generally unacceptable.

What's the best way to cook? Without harm to health, you can cook food, bake it in the oven, or, as a last resort, stew it (but in water without adding oil).

It is advisable to purchase (for many years!) good non-stick cookware, Teflon frying pans, and high quality pots. This will help significantly reduce the amount of fat used in cooking. Trust me, high quality kitchen utensils will serve you well. You shouldn’t skimp on your own health!

A great option is to steam it. Modern steamers are very convenient. They have several levels, which allows you to cook several dishes at the same time. For example, rice is on the top level, and chicken is on the bottom. Also, in steamers, excess fat flows into the water, and the meat turns out very tender.

One more important detail. Never reuse or reheat the oil. It has been reliably proven that when oil is reheated, a huge amount of carcinogenic substances are formed, which cause various malignant tumors. Always remember this and take the time to wash the pan and add new oil.

Therefore, you should get rid of such a thing in your home as a deep fryer. Repeatedly heating oil in a deep fryer is extremely dangerous to your health. For the same reason, it is not recommended to eat French fries.

Coffee roasting shop – roastery – Nikita Redkokashin and his friends launched not so long ago. Seven years ago, his business consisted of a counter on the ground floor of a shopping center.

“We just wanted to sell coffee in paper cups, like in the movies. Back then they only sold in those, you know, plastic cups with a handle. So we opened, brought in these paper cups with lids, brewed coffee, sold - and it turns out that Coffee Bean had already done this before us (chain coffee shop in Belgorod - author's note). I was so offended by them then!” – Nikita recalls with a sly smile.

Now the counter is no longer there: it was abandoned when two full-fledged Calypso coffee shops opened in the city center. In November, a third point appeared - “Calypso in the Kitchen”. Somewhere between these events, the guys decided to open a roasting shop.

“When we first started working with coffee, we thought we made it better than anyone else. Then we started going to Moscow and St. Petersburg to get acquainted with coffee pots (This is what Nikita calls everyone associated with coffee - author's note) and realized that we were doing everything wrong. Moreover: come here in two years, and we will say: “Pfft... We did everything wrong in 2015!” At first it turned out that there are some subtleties when cooking. Then - that our grains are not the same at all. After one master class, we literally threw away everything we had and began making coffee from the best, as it seemed to us then, beans bought in Moscow. And then we decided that it was safer to roast the coffee ourselves.”

Photo by Igor Goncharov

Smell Ethiopia

The roastery is cool, spacious, bright, not factory-like or Belgorod-style. On the right is an area for guests: sofas, a table, shelves with books about coffee and bean samples. Directly in front of the door is a long bar counter, and behind it, near a huge window, is a coffee machine and dishes. And on the left is the most interesting thing.

“Coffee comes to us from Ethiopia, Kenya, Brazil... The simpler ones come in ordinary bags. A little better - in bags with a package inside. And the highest class - in vacuum briquettes. All this is specialty coffee (one of the translations of the English word specialty is “special assortment” - author’s note), we only work with him. But this is a small share of the total amount of coffee in the world. Most are so-called commercial coffee, which you buy in a regular store. It’s lower class, it’s assembled automatically and in general... Let’s better smell this one!”

Nikita opens the first bag. It contains green peas. I take a handful and smell it:

- It smells like dust.

- Hm. Try this one!– Nikita is surprised and opens another bag.

The problem is that my sense of smell is as keen as a shrimp's ear for music. The coffee smells like dust again. Maybe someone is exaggerating?

- Oh, here, come here. Smell Ethiopia.

I put my head in the bag, inhale so much that my head begins to spin - and, finally, I feel something that delights the other guests of the workshop. In this bag, the smell of dust has a distinct sourness.

“The sourness of coffee – both in the smell and in the taste – is excellent! The fact is that coffee is a berry (and not a bean, as they wrote in Soviet books). And any berry, even the sweetest raspberry, always has a sour taste.”

Photo by Igor Goncharov

High, high in the mountains

Coffee does not grow in Russia. Even in Sochi the climate is not the same. Therefore, raw materials must be purchased in hot countries where there are high mountains.

“The higher the coffee grows, the cooler it is.” (the guys in “Calypso”, by the way, don’t bother what type of word “coffee” is: either they will say “he” or “it” - author’s note), because it contains less caffeine. Yes, yes: plants need this substance not so that the OnOnas journalist will cheer up after a morning cup and run to work, but to repel pests. The higher the plantation grows, the greater the temperature changes and the fewer insects agree to live there. That is, the bushes no longer need to protect themselves from them. If you want to wake up, throw a caffeine tablet under your tongue. And you need to drink coffee to enjoy the taste.”

In English, coffee berries are called the same as cherries: cherry, only its pulp is denser and more fibrous. Nikita takes out dried berries from the box - dark burgundy peas. In the next box there are pulp and seeds separately. Actually, the bones later become a drink.

“Specialty coffee is harvested from the bushes by hand. Then the pulp is separated: to do this, the berries can be dried on lattice “beds” and peeled, or they can be soaked so that the pulp exfoliates. You understand: in Africa, for example, washing coffee is unprofitable - there water is already worth its weight in gold. But in America it’s easier.”

Washed or dried raw materials are packed into bags and sent to roasters. But still, this green-yellow content has neither the appearance nor the smell of anything in common with the coffee that everyone is used to seeing.

“Nothing, everything will appear after roasting,” the workshop worker joins in Andrey. “The Maillard reaction, caramelization of sugars - and you’ll have coffee.”

And everything that is not according to schedule is to hell

“In many books, especially in Russian, they talk about some kind of magic of coffee...” Nikita, ironically, rolls his eyes blissfully, and then abruptly returns to reality. - Bullshit! Coffee is an exact science!”

Precision in the workshop is ensured by a real German - a huge roster (a unit named from the English roast - “fry” - author’s note) Probat, and the scientific background is a former employee of the BelSU National Research University in the field of nanotechnology, and now a roaster Andrey.

“Probat is like the Mercedes of cars. When we say that we roast with it, other coffee shops are ready to buy a batch right away, without testing. And Andrei came to us in April. He says: “I want to work with you,” and we never mind if a person is really interested.”

The device is very expensive (“Oh-ho-ho... He-he-he... Hm... It costs a lot. Just believe me,” the guys widen their eyes), and it also weighs significantly (“That’s a lot of cast iron!” - Nikita knocks on the body. The cast iron responds with a dull sound - it’s like hammering on a rock). There is a computer attached to the side in which you can create profiles - recipes that specify down to the second when to turn on the burner, what temperature to maintain, how to change it during the frying process and when to cool the finished grains. That is, you can roast several batches of coffee from that bag, get used to which mode produces what you need, and then save it so that the roaster works on its own. The operator only needs to fill in the required portion.

On the monitor, every second of roasting is shown on the graph: the blue line fell due to the fact that the coffee from the cold bag cooled the tank, but the red line slowly rises as the beans began to heat up. Inside they are constantly rotated by a bushing like the one in a meat grinder. This ensures even cooking.

“No magic! – Nikita repeats this louder, because the still green peas are rattling inside the roaster. “We know exactly what to expect from the grain, the temperature and cooking time... But the art is in creating the ideal profile for this variety.”

“The Maillard reaction and caramelization are two chemical processes that determine the color and aroma of fried foods. There's also crack - do you hear? (peas in the roaster now not only rattle, but also crackle, like seeds in a frying pan - author's note)? This click indicates that the grain is fried. Corn turns into popcorn when cracked. You can take out the coffee immediately after crack, or you can take it later: almost every ten seconds, the edges of the taste will turn out different. In general, the taste rests on two pillars - the potential of the grain and roasting. The potential is laid on the plantation: where the bush grew, how it was watered, how much sun and fertilizer there was... This is called terroir, like wine,” adds Andrey.

Photo by Igor Goncharov

“And when roasting, you can pull out the notes that you need: if you want - a berry, if you want - there will be a more nutty aroma, but if you want - fry until bitter,” Nikita sums up. – By the way, if you ask a random passerby in Russia to describe coffee in a few words, he will say “bitter”, “black”. This is because we never had high-quality coffee and it was roasted harder to hide the flaws in taste. Now everyone is used to drinking like this.”

There is no roasting department: you have to figure out all the details yourself. Calypso started with a small roaster, on which they now roast samples - small samples that are sent for testing by sellers of raw materials - coffee traders. Then they bought a larger one - and now the employees practice on it.

“We burned through so much coffee here...” Nikita smiles. “But you can’t learn any other way.” We are even ready to let other coffee shops use this roaster: let them come with their own beans and train.”

Two to three days after roasting, the beans can be ground and used. The aroma develops best in the next two to three weeks, and then the coffee ages: the expiration date has not passed, but the taste is no longer the same. Therefore, there is a constant turnover in the roastery: small batches are regularly roasted for coffee shops from St. Petersburg to Novosibirsk, which do not stagnate for a long time in the warehouse.

You need to take a good squish

To understand what flavor shades you extracted from the grain during roasting, as well as what is so special about the new sample, there is cupping (from, again, the English cup - “cup” - author’s note). Grind the grain, put 12 g (spoon) in a glass, pour 200 ml of boiling water and wait with a timer.

“Please: the easiest way to make coffee,” Nikita comments. – In exactly four minutes you need to break the foam (his assistant Katya slaps the foam with a spoon), catch the floating thick stuff so as not to choke (Katya deftly manipulates the spoon in the glass, and the surface of the drink remains almost clean)- and you can drink.”

Cupping is tasting such simply brewed coffee. When in a distant highland country the harvest is harvested and prepared for packaging, coffee traders come there, brew thousands of such glasses, place them in long rows and begin to taste.

“Of course, you don’t need to drink the whole glass, just a little bit is enough. For this purpose, a spoon is used - the main tool of the capper. We even have a special pocket for it on our uniform aprons; we wear it almost under our hearts.”

Nikita takes half a spoonful of the drink from the nearest glass.

“But now the most important thing will happen. You don’t just need to swallow the coffee – you need to take a good slurp. The less aesthetically pleasing you do this, the more evenly and quickly the drink will roll across your tongue. You know that different types of taste are felt in its different parts: salty, sweet, sour and bitter? So that they can be felt all at once, and you need to squish.”

Slurping is awkward at first. Throughout my childhood, I, and others, were carefully weaned off this. Surely your grandmother, if she is from the Belgorod region, said something like: “Don’t Serbai!”

After swallowing a couple of spoons as usual (well, coffee is like coffee, bitter, black), you manage to force yourself to slurp properly. The result is unexpected: firstly, I’m doing much better with taste recognition than with smell, and secondly, the sip clearly smells like a nut. The squelch from the next glass - hmm, sour... From the third - bue, so bitter!

“At cupping championships, participants are given three glasses and asked to determine which is which. Moreover, at the global level, they can slip coffee that grew on three slopes of one hill. We held the Belgorod championship in the summer - not to intimidate competitors, but to get to know other baristas. To make it more informal, even our accountant was invited to participate. So she made it to the finals!”

Sudden afterword

“Sometimes you look at something - it’s awesome, you take a photo and look - it’s awesome, you come home, look - it’s some kind of garbage - and delete it. And all because of the atmosphere of the place,” says photographer Igor, who recorded the tour of the workshop. – It’s the same with coffee: when you smell it, the smell is different, it seems that everything is so interesting, dynamic... When you try it, it’s also different, and there are these squishes... And in the photo you look: well, someone is sniffing coffee , well, drinks from a spoon...”

You can talk a lot about cupping and roasting. Reading takes even longer. But it’s better, of course, to try. Therefore, the guys are waiting for all guests in their workshop.

“Coffee potters are incredible people! “I’m not saying this because I myself am one of them,” Nikita smiles. – After all, a variety of people love coffee, and it’s great when they learn more and more about it. One day a woman came to us, ordered a cup, drank it, came up and said: “I had strange coffee. Like compote with prunes.” And we treated her without stipulating in advance that we would prepare an excellent mixture, not similar to the usual one... When they explained, she smiled and was satisfied. Our job is to serve this kind of coffee and explain where the damn prunes are in it.”

We publish even more photos for some materials (including this one)