Encyclopedia of perfume. Educational and simply interesting literature about perfumery

1. "Perfumery", R.A. Friedman, Pishchepromizdat, 1955, Moscow.This book is the beginning of all beginnings. In Russia and the countries of the former USSR, a more worthy textbook on perfumery with a description of recipes and technology has not yet been published. Many books of our time are based on materials from this book. I met criticism on the Internet for this book. Yes, I agree, there are mistakes and some nuances, but in general it is still a wonderful book, you just need to take it more objectively and without quibbling. Download link http://www.ex.ua/782947960349 or by request Perfumery Fridman Moscow 1955 free download

2. " Introduction à l "é tude des parfums Mati è res premi è res aromatiques d" origine naturelle et de synth è se "Taghi Bassiri, Masson & Cie, 1960, Paris The title is translated from French: "Introduction to the study of perfumery. Aromatic raw materials of natural and synthetic origin." link will appear later

3. Perfumery Practice and Principles Robert R. Calkin, J. Stephan Jellinek, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1994, New York, Chichester, Brisbane, Toronto, Singapore can be downloaded from depositfiles or letitbit

4. Modern Technology Of Perfumes, Flavors And Essential Oils (2nd Edition) NIIR Board, 2004, You can download the National Institute of Industrial Research on depositfiles or on letitbit (but unfortunately this is only part of the book, but I still think it will be useful to someone)

5. "Perfumery and its secrets" SA Voitkevich, Food Industry, 2003, Moscow Link will appear a little later In Ukraine, this book can be bought

6. "865 aromatic substances for perfumery and household chemicals", S. A Voitkevich., Food industry, 1994, Moscow download on depositfiles or letitbit

7. "Essential oils for perfumery and aromatherapy", SA Voitkevich, Food industry, 1999, Moscow download on depositfiles or letitbit, and in Ukraine this book can be bought

8. "Aromas and smells in culture ", O.B. Vainshtein, Novoe literary obozreniye, 2003, Moscow download book1 and download book2 or download one archive on depositfiles or letitbit

9. "The Chemistry of Fragrances From Perfumer to Consumer 2nd Edition Edited" Charles Sell Quest International, Ashford, Kent, The Royal Society of Chemistry, 2006 download

10. "Perfumes: Art, Science, and Technology, Peter M. Müller, Dietmar Lamparsky", 1994 read online

11. " Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials: Preparation, Properties and Uses "Horst Surburg, Johannes Panten, 2001 download

12. "Fragrance. Memories of a perfumer" K.M. Verigin

13. " Scent and Chemistry: The Molecular World of Odors ", Günther Ohloff, Wilhelm Pickenhagen and Philip Kraft, Verlag Helvetica Chimica Acta, 2011, Z ü richFree download download link on request

And more books that I do not have yet, but I would very much like to purchase:

Introduction to Perfumery by Tony Curtis and David G. Williams A Ellis Horwood Series in Applied Science and Industrial Technology 1994

Perfumery and Flavoring Synthetics by Paul Z. Bedoukian, Ch.E, Ph.D Third, Revised Edition Allured Publishing Corp 1986

Flower Oils and Floral Compounds in Perfumery by Danute Pajaiyis Anonis Published by: Perfumer & Flavorist Allured Publishing Corp.

We are used to the primitive division of aromas into warm / floral and cold / fresh. Someone will more seriously divide the features of perfume scents into three notes:

• Fresh or ozone;
• Oriental or velvet;
• Natural or floral.

Perfumers believe that a good perfume combines all three constituent notes. But in reality, everything is much more complicated and interesting.

Main groups of aromas

It has always been difficult for an ordinary person to determine what exactly he likes in this or that type of perfume. There is a huge variety of smells in the world, unique and inimitable, but still many of them have common, similar shades - notes. In order to systematize knowledge, it was thought up to combine fragrances into groups and describe them. The odor classification was developed in the 1990s in France.

Then perfumers counted seven notes of the main types of fragrances:

1. floral;
2. citrus;
3. chypre;
4. fern;
5. forest;
6. leather;
7. amber / oriental.

Modern technologies have greatly expanded our understanding of perfumery. It became possible to combine fragrances from seven main groups, and new families of smells also appeared. Let's consider all of them in turn.

What will be the most popular this winter, what perfume notes are able to warm in frost, add a woman's charm to a winter look?

Oriental, Oriental or Amber

Intense, sugary, warm and juicy interweaving of oriental spices (cloves, vanilla, cinnamon, amber), floral (jasmine or tuberose), animal aromas and incense create a thick, sensual and passionate bouquet.

Such a rich and luxurious scent is not for a young girl, it should be worn by an adult or mature, bright and beautiful lady. The oriental category is more typical for women's perfume. There is not a great choice of men's perfumes in this category.

Tip: Use oriental perfume to go out with evening dress and matching makeup.

Classic oriental fragrances - Joyous by British Boadicea The Victorious, Magie Noire Lancome, Opium by Yves Saint Laurent or Poison by Christian Dior.

Aquatic

Oceanic aquatic (marine) categories of odors began to be created only 25 years ago. They are distinguished by the clear, invigorating and fresh sound of cool water. Initially, aquatic scents consisted only of natural extracts of freesia, citrus fruits and green apples, but with the development of the technology for synthesizing natural smells using artificially produced molecules, notes of sea salt, water and fresh air appeared. Today, in order to create the effect of a sea or water scent, notes of cucumber, water lily, honeysuckle, watermelon and grapes are added.

Perfumes with imitation of pure water are rarely used. This category of fragrances is added to reveal more complex natural floral or fruity perfumes. A good example would be "Cool Waterot" by the Swiss firm Davidoff.

The watery type of perfume is suitable for almost everyone, but it predominates in men's perfumery (for the category of young and energetic people).

Woody

This category of fragrances consists mainly of rich woody notes - cedar, sandalwood, juniper, pine, vetivelia. For the full disclosure of giving the perfume revitalization, they are complemented with other shades, for example, citrus notes (lemon, lime, grapefruit) or floral scents (iris, lavender, patchouli).

Wood perfume is depth and tranquility. Fragrances with a woody note are most often created for men. English Laundry (UK) presents one of the exemplary lines of fragrances for women and men of this type - "Arrogant". It is perfect for people after 30, confident and level-headed, will be appropriate in any environment and create a good working atmosphere around him.

Ozone

Fragrances in this category have appeared not so long ago. Due to the development of the industry of artificially synthesizing molecules to create odors, it has become possible to separate this type into a separate category.

Spectacular, light, fresh, almost weightless ozone fluid, similar in sensations to the coolness after rain, the air of an impending thunderstorm, or the pure freshness of a mountain breeze. This effect, in addition to the effects created in the laboratory, is complemented by natural citrus, pink, mint accords, as well as notes of green tea. Such an unusual energetic, sparkling and slightly romantic scent will suit young people of any gender. However, it will not be easy to find a pure ozone type of perfume.

S.T. Dupont from France has created a great example of an ozone perfume, Essence Pure Homme.

Aromatic or Fern

"Fougere" and "fern" in this category is more of a metaphor. It is a combination of herbal, tart notes combined with sophisticated aromas of flowers and trees. Well complements the fougere perfume with bergamot, oak moss, lavender flowers, patchouli, coumarin and incense.

The Italian cosmetics and perfumery firm Bottega Verde has created the exemplary UOMO-Madera Marina fern perfume. It is ideal for athletes, travelers.

It is believed that fougere perfumes are more suitable for males. In women's lines, this type is combined with woody and spicy families.

Green or Herbal

This category is distinguished by the bitter, rich taste of fresh herbs. This could be the smell of freshly cut grass, autumn hay, or fallen leaves. They are often complemented by aromas of moss, flowers, trees, citrus accents. Rather, this scent is created to reveal and refresh the floral, woody and citrus categories. It is rare as a separate type of perfumery.

An example of a green type perfume is “Green Tea Intense”, which is produced by the American perfume company Elizabeth Arden.

Weightless, light herbal scents are suitable for girls and boys from 14 to 25 years old for every day. Such perfumes do not cause irritation and will be appropriate at school, and at work, and at dinner.

Leather

This is one of the rarest types of perfume. Unconventional ingredients and accents create difficulties in their release. Despite the fact that now it is at the peak of popularity and many manufacturers are developing perfumes based on it, it is very difficult to find such a smell on the shelves in the women's department. And in the men's departments, and on the shelves with unisex fragrances, the leather type of perfume can be found in combination with the smell of dry tobacco, subtle floral notes. Campfire smoke, birch tar, moss, juniper and charred wood go well with the leather scent category.

The Argentinean firm La Martina produces Bayres Hombre, a fine example of leather perfume. A bright, strong-willed, self-confident and independent woman who will not be frightened by the complex composition of the fragrance can afford to acquire such a fragrance.

In addition, this perfume will be a wonderful gift for a strong, courageous and purposeful middle-aged man.

The leather category is almost never combined with other families, since the dry, natural and specific scent is unique in itself. This type of perfume is best suited for an evening reception, dinner or a trip to the theater.

Musky

Musk is the aphrodisiac that animals (roe deer, desman, beavers, deer) use in life to attract the opposite sex.

Initially, in its natural form, it was mined from the real glands of animals. But today, the other two types of musk fragrances are more popular: floral and synthetic. Such types are more pleasant, and also less expensive to manufacture. Vegetable musk is made from galbanum, hibiscus and ambrette flowers. Synthetic aroma - chemically in special laboratories.

This category was created to complement and reveal other types of perfumes. The musky scent perfectly emphasizes floral and woody aromas, giving them a sensuality and soft sound. French perfumers from Montale have created "Musk to Musk" - a perfect example of the musky type of perfume. Manufacturers consider musky scents to be more suitable for women.

Spicy

It is not easy to meet the category of spicy aromas unchanged. More often it is used with other types of perfume to create a rich composition. The basis of this category is flowers and spices that have a bright, spicy smell: ginger, cloves, cinnamon. This type goes well with families of flowers and trees, as well as oriental scents.

Spicy perfumes are suitable for people over 30, women are better off choosing a combination of them with oriental and floral notes, and men with woody ones.

Citrus

The citrus category is distinguished by bright, invigorating, slightly bitter aromas. To create them, natural essences are used, which are extracted from the fruits and flowers of a lemon tree, pomelo, orange, bergamot, lime, etc. This family is used by perfumers to create unisex perfumes. Citrus scents look great on their own and in combination with other categories.

Tip: The citrus scent is versatile. It will suit almost any person, it will give a charge of vivacity, freshness and energy in the warm season.

The Italian perfumery company Acqua di Parma releases the win-win citrus fragrance Colonia Assoluta, which is most often chosen by young people for every day.

Gourmet

Chocolate, cocoa butter, bee honey and wax, fresh milk, coconut flakes, sweets, ice cream - all this is the basis of gourmet scents. Such sugary and sweet, appetite-stimulating aromas are rarely used unchanged. Floral or oriental categories soften and complicate the gourmet type of perfume well.

Such sweet chords are designed for a female audience with a sweet tooth. In men's perfumery, they are used only in combination with woody, floral, spicy or leathery scents.
The American perfume company Roxana Illuminated Perfume, which focuses on natural perfume production, releases the perfect example of the gourmet scent "Figure: Cerise".

Floral

The flower category is the most common of all fragrances. Extracts of freesia, orchid, daffodil, rose, lavender flowers, light or rich, are beautiful on their own and in combination with any other categories of fragrances.

Floral scents are suitable for any time of the day. They are able to emphasize the uniqueness and femininity of their owner. In men's perfumery, floral notes refresh and thicken the main scent.

Fruit

These are primarily mono-aromas of a wide variety of fruits, as well as multifruit mixes. These notes are best combined with accords of flowers, wood, aromatic and aquatic aromas. Fruity scents are more suitable for women, although they are also used in men's perfumes.

Chypre

Bergamot, oak bark and moss are the basis of chypre scents. It is always a slightly contrasting citrus and fresh perfume with notes of greenery, wood and flowers. In combination with other categories of fragrances, they are used in both the men's and women's fragrance categories.

Examples of fragrances from this category are "Miss Dior" by Christian Dior. Perfume with a chypre note will suit businessmen and just sociable people.

Exotic

They are separated from floral and fruity mainly for marketing purposes. Unusual components, extracts of exotic fruits and flowers, non-standard combinations with other categories create an exotic type of perfume.

Fragrances such as "Folavril" by Annick Goutal are most often worn by bright, unusual, extraordinary and daring women.

Aldehyde

Thanks to the development of chemistry, a new category of fragrances based on synthetic compounds has recently emerged. Aldehydes allow you to create absolutely any odors and mix them together. Such production is much cheaper and simpler than natural and allows to greatly expand the perfumery market.

Unique perfumery - that creates a unique scent for a lady. Escentric molecules will help you become the owner of the only fragrance in the world.

Notes in fragrance descriptions

A good scent is composed of several "notes". To describe the smell, you need to apply it and wait for all of them to unfold (this takes about 10-15 minutes):

1. The first step is the top note. This is the very first impression of the fragrance, which lasts less than a minute. The top note evaporates as soon as we open the perfume bottle. It is needed to prepare the sense of smell for the perception of the main aroma.
2. The second step is a heart note. Comes instantly, after the first, when the perfume begins to interact with human skin. The most expensive and hardly volatile substances are usually used in the heart note.
3. The third step is the base note. This is the lasting scent that you will wear all day. It usually opens within 8-10 minutes after application to the skin. The third note helps to open up the second note and emphasize the temperament and sophistication of the aroma.

The correct combination, subtlety and homogeneity of all three notes determines the quality of the perfume, their durability and unique sound that will develop and accompany you all day long.

Concentration of aromas

There are four types of aromas, depending on their persistence and saturation:

1. Perfume - the strongest concentration of odor 20-30%. Used in the evening. Apply to places where you can feel the pulse - wrist, temples, behind the ears, and so on.
2. Eau de parfum - concentration 14-25%. This type of perfume is used in the daytime, and is applied two or three times (lasts from 4 to 5 hours) on clothes and body skin.
3. Toilet water -10-20%. It is used in the morning or on weekends. It is not customary to apply eau de toilette on the skin, you just need to spray the item of clothing a little before going out.
4. Cologne is a light scent. It is usually applied in the morning (men after shaving) on ​​the skin directly with the hands with light movements.

How to choose a perfume

If you have to explore the rich assortment of aromas, use a special piece of paper. When you have already identified an approximate list of your favorite smells, take your time. Buy a few samples to “wear” the scent on yourself for several days, or lightly spray your wrist with the scent you like and leave the store.

For the full disclosure of the scent, the perfume needs to spend at least an hour on your skin.

It is impossible to choose the right perfume for yourself, focusing on the smell from another person. Only the first notes can be felt in the store. The unique scent of perfume is gradually revealed on the skin and you will wear it all day long. In addition, there are always too many distracting smells in the perfumery departments.

Applying perfume

Ideally, you should have three different jars with the same scent:

• In the morning, experts recommend applying eau de toilette.
• Eau de parfum should be carried with you in your purse and used 2-3 times a day (every four hours).
• If a gala dinner is planned for the evening, apply perfume before the event.

Most often, perfume is advised to be applied to the pulse zones (bends of the legs and arms, temples, neck, area behind the ears), many recommend sprinkling perfume on the hair or body under clothing.

But the most important condition for proper application is to use the scent after a bath, when the body is still warm and damp.

Perfume by season

It is very important to use perfume according to the weather and mood. In winter, you always want warmth and comfort - this will be provided by thick chypre and gourmand aromas. But in the summertime, such perfumes can be too intrusive and strong. In the warm summer, it is more appropriate to use light floral and citrus aromas, which are lost in the cold and are almost not felt.

Spirits and others

Everyone knows how irritating a strong and pungent foreign smell can be on others. It is necessary to be able to separate the evening reception from the trip on public transport.

Tip: Remember that not every scent is appropriate for work or a meeting. Take a responsible approach to the choice of your scent so as not to spoil the impression.

Experts say that the main thing in the smell is harmony, not intensity. At work, it is good to use unisex eau de toilette or other neutral, unobtrusive odors. Some psychologists also insist that a woman who is striving up the career ladder needs to use masculine perfume.

But on a date, you should avoid perfumes that demonstrate independence and pride of their owner (extracts of bergamot, moss, lavender bergamot and bay leaf). On the contrary, it is necessary to emphasize your tenderness and sensuality with the help of light fruity or floral aromas.

Perfume and hair color

Some perfumers associate perfume fragrances with hair color:

• Bitter and fresh floral, violet, mimosa, lavender, citrus or cyclamen fragrances for blondes.
• Spicy and sweet smells of acacia, honeysuckle and gardenia for brunettes.
• For girls with black hair, the aromas of tuberose, jasmine, lily or sandalwood are suitable.
• For brown-haired women - an unusual aroma of hyacinth, as well as a perfume from the category of chypre.

Perfume and clothing

There are a number of rules according to which:

• The strict suit is combined with “cold” smells.
• An extravagant outfit - with exotic, fruity and floral aromas.
• Unisex fragrances are best suited for a sporty style of clothing.

Perfume series

• Bath oil / foam;
• Gel / soap to wash your face;
• Skin cream, oil, or lotion;
• An odorless antiperspirant, or better a deodorant that matches the perfume.

Such a set of cosmetics with a single scent will completely eliminate the "draining" of perfumes with extraneous odors of cosmetics and will create an intense and at the same time light scent on your body for as long as possible.

The scents of the zodiac signs

• Aries is well suited for perfumes with amber, poppy, jasmine and patchouli;
• For Taurus, lotus, lavender, bergamot are suitable;
• It is better for Gemini to opt for sandalwood, violet, strawberry, pine;
• Rakam - sandalwood, jasmine or poppy flowers, amber and lotus;
• When choosing a perfume, Leo should pay attention to the aromas of incense, amber, jasmine and coconut oil;
• Virgo - for patchouli, peace, strawberry, rose;
• Libra will infuse lavender, sandalwood, pine, rose or jasmine on a good day;
• Scorpions need notes of rose, lavender, amber and jasmine flowers;
• Sagittarius should choose scents with amber or patchouli;
• Capricorn will like rose, sandalwood, pine and lotus;
• Aquarius will be comfortable in a perfume with notes of patchouli, lime, strawberry, sandalwood or rose;
• Fish need a scent with lavender, poppy, rose or violet.

Keeping perfume

Contrary to popular belief, perfumes do not last long. Therefore, experts do not recommend buying large volumes at once, especially if you prefer to use several brands at the same time.

Tip: If you are going to store your perfume for a long time, keep it in the refrigerator.

Perfume should be stored in a dark place, preferably in a box. The tighter the bottle is closed and the cooler it is in the room, the longer your favorite scent will keep its freshness and quality.

Books that will make you a professional perfumery, teach you how to wear Chanel No. 5 correctly and explain for whom Krasnaya Moskva was created

"From Cloves to Sandal", Anna Zworykina

Professional biologist and perfumer Anna Zworykina explains how to use fragrances in everyday life and how to make them yourself. For example, the book contains a detailed description of methods for obtaining natural extracts. Anna shares her personal experience and gives ready-made recipes for perfumes, scented candles, soaps, sachets, cooking salt, salad dressings, tea and even some medicinal mixtures (for wounds and burns). A book for those who want to try everything in practice. You can buy the book

« Parfums Mythiques. Exclusive collection of legendary perfumes ",Marie Benedict Gaultier

The publication contains the history of the creation of 70 perfume masterpieces, including Chanel No. 5, Shalimar, Arpege, Jicky, Narcisse Noir, L "Heure Bleue, Mitsouko and others. The author explains their perfume pyramid, the features of the bottles, and also advises how to correctly to wear. The book contains illustrations of women, flowers and other associations associated with fragrances.

“Soviet style. Perfumes and cosmetics ", Marina Koleva

The book examines in detail the Soviet era of the 1920s-1980s. For example, in the USSR they made good perfumes and produced high-quality essential oils on their own. There were cheap and expensive colognes in the country - for different segments of the population. After reading this book, you will be able to shine with knowledge and say that the Kurortny cologne was released specifically for the working class. It was expensive to travel to Crimea, but to enjoy the beautiful label and aroma - as much as you like. The book describes in detail the history of creation and the role of Soviet legends in society: Red Moscow, Red Poppy, Manon, Moscow Lights, White Lilac and Silver Lily of the Valley. Beautiful photographs of bottles and Soviet posters will tighten for several evenings for sure. You can buy a book. Don't pay attention to the cover, it is a little scary.

"Aromas of the World", Alexandra Dmitrieva and Tatiana Evseeva

A whole encyclopedia of fragrances: from the history of perfumery from the time of Ancient Egypt to love stories related to fragrances. Collected here are the stories of the creation of legendary fragrances from the perfume houses of Chanel, Guerlain, Givenchy and Kenzo. Separate chapters are devoted to aphrodisiacs, a brief description of aromatherapy and the principles of dividing fragrances into different groups. Chemists, perfumers, art critics and cultural historians participated in the creation of the perfume encyclopedia. You can buy

“Top 100 Fragrances. How to choose and wear perfume ",Luca Turin and Tanya Sanchez

A guide to perfumery, which contains olfactory impressions of the top 100 perfumes. The review of perfumers begins with modern compositions that can be bought in any perfume shop, and ends with rare items that are found only in the Osmothek. (Museum of perfumery, located in Paris. - Ed.)... What's nice: the terms are deciphered in the glossary at the end of the book, so you don't get confused. The publication will more than teach you how to distinguish a work of art from mediocre scents. You can buy