Sologub's house on Povarskaya. Sollogub estate on Povarskaya - navody

I've always loved spontaneous travel)
I was once on the Saransk-Moscow train, reading a book. And then an SMS arrives: “Are you going tomorrow?” I answer - “Where?” And in response, “Who cares, in the Moscow region.”
Of course I agreed, because if you go there-I-don’t-know-where, you will definitely find something-I-don’t-know-what!)
And they found it :)

We followed in the footsteps of this hike. Today I will tell you about the village of Mikhailovskoye and the Rozhdestvenskoye boarding house (the estate of Count Sollogub).

The initial stop of the trip was, oddly enough, a roadside cafe. Everything about the food was pretty sad, so from the photos I can only show myself waiting for the order :)

So, we set off towards the first stop - the oldest church in the Moscow region, which is located in the village of Mikhailovskoye.

Actually, the church itself was miraculously preserved, because it is entirely wooden, and the year of construction is already 1689.
And how it was preserved... The man who was loading provisions into the trunk next to us told us that everything inside was rotten and the church stood on its word of honor... The man himself turned out to be a restorer of wooden buildings, as he said - he more than once offered to restore it to the local priest church. Even free, as long as there are materials. But the father refused...

It was not possible to get close, because... Due to the threat of collapse, the church is fenced on all sides.

This is the dome of this church, almost wooden tiles:

Having said goodbye to the restorer and taken a photo for Instagram (otherwise, live broadcast :)), we go to the next point.

According to the plan of the campaign, the next point was to be the Church of the Nativity of Christ (1731) in the estate of Count Sollogub. According to the description, it was necessary to get to the territory of the Shakhtar holiday home. But either this holiday home was somewhere in the other direction, or it was renamed... In general, after three circles around the area we found ourselves at the entrance to the Rozhdestvenskoye boarding house.

We decided - well, since it’s Rozhdestvensky, then the Church of the Nativity is also nearby. We decided to enter the territory, especially since there is this mushroom on duty at the entrance, which is in the title of the post:

The area looked quiet and abandoned, the alley was generally a place for horror filming)

Having scoured the Internet, I found that a charitable organization had previously been organized in the estate, with a school, a library and a hospital. Unfortunately, the buildings of the estate have not survived. During the union, the estate became the Shakhtar rest house, where gentlemen miners from all over the country came to rest. The building of one of the buildings and the tractor, as a symbol of labor, installed nearby are reminiscent of this fact)))

Pushkin's time was rich in talented, unusual people. The romanticism that reigned in the public consciousness of that time contributed to the prosperity of literature, poetry, painting and other arts. Abilities and creative potential were encouraged and supported in every possible way by the very atmosphere of the society of that time. Any manifestations of originality did not go unnoticed, and certainly did not go unnoticed, whose personalities, both during their lifetime and later, were called eccentrics and originals.

One of the most famous surnames in Moscow and St. Petersburg during these years was the surname of the Arkharovs, owners of the Islavskoye estate near Moscow. The centuries-old history of this estate (first mentioned in 1358) is certainly interesting, and each of the families that once owned it is worthy of a separate description. Over the years, the estate was owned by the following families: the Morozovs, the Apraksins, the Durnovos, the Postnikovs, the Loris-Melikovs, the Likhachevs, the Sushkins, and the Alekseevs. But still, we would like to talk specifically about the Arkharov family, as one of the brightest and most original families of their time.

Ivan Petrovich Arkharov, one of the richest people in Russia, whose fortune was estimated at one and a half million rubles, Moscow military governor, came from an obscure noble family. He was distinguished by kindness, gentleness, rare cordiality and courtesy. He began serving in the Preobrazhensky Regiment, served under Count Orlov-Chesmensky during the Moreya Expedition, participated in the pacification of the Pugachev rebellion, and at the end of Catherine’s reign he was promoted to major general. His first marriage was to Ekaterina Alekseevna Shchepotyeva, his second to Ekaterina Aleksandrovna Rimskaya-Korsakova. The Arkharovs owned Islavsky from 1780 to 1815.

According to the description of the late 18th century. in Islavskoe there was a wooden two-story manor house with services, at which a “regular” garden was laid out. There was a wooden church in the village, and another, stone, in honor of the Savior Not Made by Hands, was just being built. The construction was completed in 1799 and, despite all sorts of ups and downs, it has survived to this day.

Having married a rich girl, Ekaterina Alexandrovna Rimskaya-Korsakova, Ivan Petrovich Arkharov focused exclusively on putting her vast estates in order.

Ivan Petrovich’s brother, Nikolai Petrovich, was not much like him in character. Pavel's favorite I , St. Petersburg 2nd Governor-General, active, dexterous courtier, skillful intriguer, capable of predicting and even partly controlling Paul’s moods I , fulfilling all his whims. Having quickly nominated himself, he hastened to take care of his brother, offering Pavel his candidacy for the post of Moscow Governor-General. And although Ivan Petrovich referred to the fact that, having lived for many years in the village, he was unaccustomed to everything military and was afraid of not pleasing His Majesty, nevertheless, he was appointed to the position. In Moscow, he formed an infantry regiment from eight garrison battalions, which received the name “Arkharovsky” and became famous for such severe discipline and cruelty that the word “Arkharovets” became a household name.

Arkharov began to live as a great gentleman in Moscow. His house on Prechistenka was open to all his acquaintances both morning and evening. Every day at least forty people dined with him, and on Sundays balls were given, which attracted all the best Moscow society. Ivan Petrovich greeted his guests with such sincere cordiality that each of them could consider himself the most desirable person for him. He embraced especially honored and beloved guests, saying: “What should I treat my dear guest? Just order it, and I will roast any of my daughters for you!” Widespread hospitality soon made the Arkharovs' house one of the most pleasant in Moscow, which was especially facilitated by Ivan Petrovich's wife. Distinguished by her intelligence and beauty, she knew how to behave in society with great dignity and tact. Her blue eyes and entire figure expressed the consciousness of her dignity and unshakable will. She ran the household in exemplary order and gave everything an air of simplicity and patriarchy. So, for example, the Arkharovs strictly observed the custom that on St. On Easter, upon returning from church, first the servants, who numbered more than 60 people, sat down at the prepared tables, and the gentlemen treated her, shared Christ with everyone, and then broke their fast themselves.

Ivan Petrovich had four daughters from two marriages: Maria, 1783, was married to Senator Z.I. Postnikov, it was to her that, after the death of her father, which followed on February 16, 1815, Islavskoe was inherited; Varvara, 1785-1811, for the chamberlain, director of the Imperial Moscow Theaters F.F. Kokoshkin; Alexandra, 1791-1855. Maid of honor of Empress Maria Feodorovna, for Alexei Vasilyevich Vasilchikov, Sofia, 1792-1854, for the Privy Councilor, Count Alexander Ivanovich Sollogub, their son Vladimir later became a famous writer, was on friendly terms with A.S. Pushkin and even was his second at the initial stage of the conflict with Baron Dantes.

Ivan Petrovich Arkharov served as governor in Moscow for two years. The Muscovites were happy with him, and he himself was happy with his position, when suddenly, through the fault of his brother, his career was cut short in an unexpected, but usual way in Pavlov’s time. Nikolai Petrovich, who fell into disgrace and was expelled from St. Petersburg, comes to his brother in Moscow. Suspicious Pavel I orders the Moscow commander-in-chief Count I.P. Saltykov, follow every step of the Arkharovs. No matter how experienced and careful Nikolai Petrovich was, once at dinner his brother burst out a few words of condemnation of Pavel’s rash impulses. On April 23, 1800, an order was given to dismiss the Arkharovs from service. And on April 24, an order was sent to deport both of them to their villages, where they were ordered to live until a special order.

The sudden and severe disgrace excited all of Moscow and aroused general regret for Ivan Petrovich. “Incredible,” wrote I.V. Strakhov to Count A.R. Vorontsov, - how this news quickly spread through the city, and what a race there was all day past my house, and what a spectacle presented itself when thirty-two unfurled banners were suddenly carried from Arkharov. All day long there were a lot of people in his house who came to say goodbye to him. His courtyard was filled with carriages and surrounded by a crowd of curious people. His friends collected too many twenty thousand rubles for the departure and for the surrender of the regiment. The writer Karamzin brought him a whole bag of books so that he could have fun reading while in exile...”

The Arkharovs' exile did not last long. On March 11, 1801, Alexander ascended the throne I , who re-enlisted them in the service and allowed them to live wherever they wished. Ivan Petrovich settled in Moscow again, and his house was still hospitably open to everyone. In 1812, the Arkharovs had to move to St. Petersburg, and here, as in Moscow, they enjoyed general respect.

In 1815, Ivan Petrovich died, and Ekaterina Alexandrovna, having married both daughters, remained to live with them, spending the winter in St. Petersburg and the summer in Pavlovsk, in order to be closer to Empress Maria Feodorovna, who showed her special favor.

In Petersburg, she occupied a large room in Maltsev’s house on Mokhovaya. At the house there was a beautiful house church, a large garden and a greenhouse for tropical plants, but Arkharova did not have the latter; the prudent old woman did not want to buy them, and with her characteristic good nature she noted to her friends that they could each bring her a “pot” of flowers for a housewarming party. The next day, the greenhouse turned into a blooming winter garden.

Waking up quite early in the morning, Arkharova usually demanded one of her hangers-on, who acted as a “secretary” for her, dictated letters to her and added several lines in her own hand to almost each one. Then she received reports, neatly settled accounts, ordered lunch and, after putting everything in order, dressed, prayed and went out into the living room, and in the summer into the garden. At two o'clock the reception of guests began, and each of them was treated to something; at five o'clock lunch was served. They sat at the table according to seniority. The food was predominantly Russian, simple and fatty, but in abundance. The wine, quite bad, was considered a rarity, but a lot of different kvass were consumed. The dishes were served alternately, depending on the rank and age of those present. At dessert, Arkharova herself poured several glasses of malaga or lunel, and treated them to the guests and those of the household whom she wanted to distinguish. At the end of lunch, Arkharov stood up, crossed herself and bowed to both sides, invariably saying: “Fed, not full, but for lunch, honor what God sent you with.” She didn't like anyone to leave immediately after dinner. “What is this,” she remarked, getting a little angry, “they just saw it, as if he had lunch at a tavern.” - But then she immediately softened her reprimand: - Well, God will forgive you for today. Yes, look, don’t forget on Sunday: there will be giblets. After dinner she sometimes went for a drive, but mostly she either played cards, played solitaire, or listened to people read, mostly novels. She really liked Zagoskin’s “Yuri Miloslavsky,” but when the hero was in danger, she stopped reading with the request: “If he dies, don’t tell me.”

At eleven o'clock in the evening Arkharova's day ended. She went to the bedroom, prayed for a long time in front of the icon case, and then she was undressed, and the old woman put the child to sleep.

Keeping family traditions sacred, Arkharova treated all her relatives, even the most distant ones, with love and care. It happened that some landowner from the provinces would unexpectedly appear to her and explain that he was the second cousin of the late Ivan Petrovich. “Yes, yes,” whispered the old woman, “you are related to us.” I remember your grandmother when she was a girl. They lived in Moscow. Therefore, we are our own. How can I serve you? And he asked her to place the children at public expense in some educational institution. And he could be calm that she would arrange and look after all her charges on weekly visits, and oblige them to come to her on idle days so that they would not be spoiled by the capital’s morals.

“Several times during the summer she was invited to the highest table, which was always an emergency,” her grandson Count Sollogub writes in his memoirs. She dressed up in advance these days. The green umbrella was removed from her eyes and replaced with a wig with gray curls under a lace cap with bows. The old lady, to be honest, was a little reddened, especially under her eyes, which were blue and very pleasant. Her nose was straight and completely correct. Her face was not crossed, not furrowed with wrinkles, as is common among people of advanced years. It was smooth and fresh. It expressed calmness, unshakability of will, conscience, not disturbed by anything, and convictions, not disturbed by anything. She, so to speak, shone with friendliness and good-heartedness, and only occasionally did instantaneous flashes flash across her affectionate features, indicating that the blood in her was far from frozen and that she took a real part in everything that was happening around her. Having decorated her headdress, she dressed herself in a silk robe or hood of special kindness, to which the locard of the Catherine Order was pinned on her left shoulder. An old yellowish Turkish shawl, almost hereditary, was thrown over his right shoulder. Then she was given a golden snuff-box, in the shape of a pug, and a crutch. Having prepared for the court, she walked along the open corridor to the carriage. Accompanying her, admiring her, were the old colonel Alexandra Nikolaevna (Shlein A.N.), who lived with her, the orphan noblewomen Anna Nikolaevna and Anna Antonovna, the senior maid Stepanida, two younger maids - Annushka the crooked and Marfushka the pockmarked. The eternally gloomy Kalmyk Tulem and the tiny toddler, the wrinkled dwarf Vasily Timofeevich, who was always knitting a stocking and, scowling, growled at us like a bulldog for our nagging, looked at the procession somewhat smugly, as if they too had received a few honors. A snub-nosed butler, Dmitry Stepanovich, with a tousled crest, in a white jabot, rounded like a fan under a white tie, was bustling in front. Waiting by the carriage, wearing triangular ugly hats, were two tall footmen in livery: white as a harrier, Anany, years older than his grandmother and who had been with her since childhood, and a young guy Peter, recently brought from the village. Grandma was getting into the carriage. But my God, what a carriage! All of St. Petersburg knew her. If I'm not mistaken, she escaped the Moscow fire. Four nags, in harnesses of primitive simplicity, dragged it with difficulty. Fedotka sat as a postilion... But Fedotka had long since become Fedot. From a clever boy he turned into a giant and also loved to drink. But his position remained with him forever, since old people generally do not like change. The coachman Abram was more decent, although very thin. Liveries and coats were sewn for luck from the coarsest cloth. On the streets, when grandmother’s sob appeared, passers-by stopped in surprise, or smiled cheerfully, or took off their hats and devoutly crossed themselves, imagining that a bishop had arrived from the provinces. However, my grandmother was not at all embarrassed by this. No matter how much they tried to persuade her, she did not agree to increase the paltry rent she received from the peasants. “The quitrent was appointed,” she excused herself, “by the will of the late Ivan Petrovich. I won't change it. After me, do as you please. Enough for me! And I don’t intend to start empty ideas.”

At one of the court dinners, a funny incident happened to Arkharova, which would have embarrassed and embarrassed another woman, but gave her a reason to demonstrate her resourcefulness and presence of mind. When they reported that everything was ready, Emperor Alexander Pavlovich gave Arkharov his hand and led her to the table. Suddenly she felt that the strings of her petticoat had burst and she was coming down. The old woman, continuing to talk with the sovereign, paused a little, gave her skirt time to fall, stepped over it and, as if not noticing what had happened to her, moved on and remained cheerful and calm throughout the entire dinner.

Ekaterina Alexandrovna died in 1836 at the age of eighty-four. She was very afraid of death, but died with extraordinary composure. Already when she was dying, they reported to her that the well-known praying man of those years, Elizaveta Mikhailovna Kologrivova, nee Golitsyna, had appeared. “No need..” answered Arkharova. “She came to teach me how to die.” I can do it without her.

This typical representative of the outdated Russian nobility was buried at the Lazarevskoye cemetery of the Alexander Nevsky Lavra.

Streets in the possession of I.I. Vorontsov-Velyaminov built a small house with a rusticated ground floor. Guide to Architectural Styles

Now this is the central part of the estate. In the 1770s, ownership passed to Dolgorukov. They expanded the estate to Povarskaya Street, added a mezzanine to the main house, and built 2 symmetrical service buildings with round corner rooms along the side borders.

In 1812, the French lived in the house, and the fire spared it. Under the next owner, Baron M.L. Bode-Kolychev, the estate’s courtyard received a closed composition. According to contemporaries, it became a “museum of medieval attractions,” among which the art gallery and collection of weapons were of greatest value.

After M.L. Bode-Kolychev's building was inherited by his daughter. She was married to the artist F.L. Sologub. The estate remained in their hands until the October Revolution.

This house was well known to Leo Tolstoy. Therefore, it is believed that the Sologub estate became the prototype of the Rostov house in the novel War and Peace.

In Soviet times, a memorial plaque was even hung on the facade of the building, and in 1956, a monument to Leo Tolstoy by G.N. was erected in the courtyard. Novokreshchenova and V.N. Vasnetsova. But researchers have found that the House of Rostov has a different prototype.

After the revolution, the Cheka was located in the Sologub estate. The building turned out to be inconvenient, and at the end of March 1918 the Commission moved to Bolshaya Lubyanka.

Later A.V. lived in the estate. Lunacharsky and his family, housed the Literary Commission of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee, the Committee on Nationalities and other institutions. During the NEP years, apartments in Sologub's house were rented out. And in 1940, farewell to the writer M.A. took place here. Bulgakov.

They say that......Sologub was a Freemason, so within the walls of his estate there are secret passages and a walled-up room with treasures guarded by the ghosts of the former owners. Residents claimed that they saw two black rooms with white stars on the ceiling. And the poet Rukavishnikov discovered that the building has 2 more windows on the outside than on the inside. This is how they found a walled up room where the Sologubs hid family heirlooms before emigrating.

Just the other day we visited the Sologubov Estate in the Serpukhov region! Driving by, we decided to stop by and see what has survived to this day! But, alas, the Church of the Nativity and part of the manor park have been preserved... But, first things first.

It’s probably not worth going to Rozhdestveno-Telyatyevo on purpose; you can only see the temple in the depths of the park, but to visit it, you need to come on the day of worship, which are held only on holidays and Sundays. Otherwise, you will not be able to enter the temple territory enclosed by a fence and get inside the temple itself.

So, the baroque Church of the Nativity of Christ built (1729 - 1731) and the remains of the park have been preserved from the estate. You will see the Nativity Church, distinguished by its graceful silhouette, harmonious proportions, rigor and expressiveness of divisions, amazing clarity of composition and laconic decor. The Church of the Nativity of Christ is located on the territory of an ancient park, consisting of regular and landscape parts, with ponds. We didn’t see any ponds either, either they dried up, got lost in the thick of the park, or turned into swamps. We didn’t tempt fate and walk through the thickets of the park! But we noticed, literally everywhere, huge snails and slugs, which indicates dampness.

About the church and its history

In 1622 in the village. Telyatyevo on the Moskovka River, owned by Ivan Ivanovich Raevsky, mentions the wooden Church of the Nativity of Christ, built “kletski” (like a hut). Then she “stood without singing” because “there was no priest.” Then the village became a dowry for his granddaughter Catherine, whose husband, Mikhail Ivanovich Prichishchev, built a new wooden church in 1696.

In the 18th century, the estate belonged to the associate of Peter I, Alexander Danilovich Menshikov, and then to the Guryevs. In 1729, the current stone Church of the Nativity of Christ was built on the estate of Colonel Sylvester Danilovich Guryev. They described it like this: “...the building is stone and has a bell tower, the roof is covered with iron, the fence is stone with a wooden lattice. There are two chapels in the church: the cold one of the Nativity of Christ and the warm one in the name of St. Sylvester, Pope of Rome. The clergy consists of a priest, a sexton and a sexton.” The church was rebuilt over the course of three centuries. In 1855, instead of the chapel of St. Sylvester, the Pope, the chapel of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary was mentioned; in 1912, the gate chapel of John the Baptist was mentioned.

In 1929, the church was closed and there was a dairy plant in it, and, according to the workers, there was a lot of water on the floor. By the beginning of 1950–1960, the temple was occupied by a local collective farm and stored fertilizer there. Then the temple was empty. By 1970, the temple began to be restored, and this saved the building from complete destruction. In 1993, the temple was transferred to the Russian Orthodox Church and services and restoration were resumed.

About the estate

In 1788 p. Telyatyevo began to be called the dual name Rozhdestvenno-Telyatyevo. The owner of the village was S.D. Guryev’s daughter, Matryona.

The further history of the village and the estate is connected with the counts Sollogub. In 1855, Maria Fedorovna Sollogub, née Samarina, became their owner. By blood and marriage, she was familiar with prominent writers and public figures of her time; her husband’s younger brother was a then famous writer, journalist, participant in the Russian-Turkish war of 1877-1878. Vladimir Aleksandrovich Sollogub. At the end of the 1850s, having become a widow, Maria Feodorovna settled on the estate and was intensively involved in charity work in Serpukhov and the district. She personally founded schools, libraries, and hospitals. In Rozhdestveno-Telyatyev, with her funds, in 1861, an elementary school for peasant children was opened, of which she was a trustee until the end of her days.

The Sologubs had the best estate collection of art objects from the Serpukhov district. It consisted of works of old European painting, graphics, sculpture and bas-reliefs by Western and Russian masters. Here, in Telyatyevo, there was a rich library in several languages.

About the writer V.A. Sollogub

The writer Vladimir Aleksandrovich Sollogub (1813 - 1882), a permanent participant in the “Notes of the Fatherland”, author of the stories “Tarantas” and “Big World”, visited here several times. This personality is very remarkable and you can tell a lot about her (especially the more you learn, the more you are attracted to her). What seemed interesting to me was the fact that “The Big World” is a kind of pamphlet, and one that was commissioned (the story was written at the suggestion of Grand Duchess Maria Nikolaevna) on M.Yu. Lermontov - he was the prototype of the main character Michel Leonin, who dreams of the “big world” and an invitation to the Anichkov Palace, but soon realized all the lies and hypocrisy of the aristocratic society. In his work, Sollogub used some lyric motifs and facts from Lermontov’s biography and did not hide the fact that the story depicts the “secular significance” of the poet.

In life, Lermontov and Sollogub were connected by friendship (it is known that Sologub visited Lermontov, who was arrested for a duel with E. Barant at the Arsenal guardhouse). It is possible that one of the incentives for completing the pamphlet assignment was only momentary emotions - Sollogub’s jealousy of the poet because of S.M. Vielgorskaya, who later became the wife of Sollogub.

The further fate of the estate and the village

After the revolution, the estate faced the usual fate - a state farm was created there. The art collections and property of the former owners were nationalized, and most of the art valuables were lost. But part of it, primarily paintings and applied arts, was taken to Moscow storage facilities in 1919. The furniture of the Sollogubs, transported to the Serpukhov house of the Maraevs, was apparently stolen by senior officials of the Revolutionary Military Council.

In 1916, the village of Telyatyevo was part of the Prigorodnaya estate. The last time Rozhdestvenno was mentioned was in the All-Union Census of 1959, and Telyatyevo was mentioned in the 1970 Census. Now the village does not exist.

In 1973, the Telyatyevo estate and park complex was transferred to the balance of the USSR Ministry of Coal Industry for the organization of the Shakhtar holiday home, which is now not functioning. We managed to get into the territory of the rest home; in its building there is now only a private dental office and security! All buildings are closed, everything is closed, the windows in the rooms are broken! The holiday home is at the stage of sale, most likely for a nursing home or a rehabilitation center for stroke patients, as they explained to us. We went into the hall and onto the second floor of the sanatorium. All Soviet-era sanatoriums are typical, all the same furniture, floors, walls... It feels like everyone has just been here and left! On the walls there are black and white photographs depicting the life of the sanatorium in Soviet times, a chess table, musical instruments, billiard tables, old chairs... everything sits and collects dust. The Soviet-style elevators, of course, are inoperative, the dining room is closed, the flowers are dead, the corridors are dark and empty... just the smell of old furniture and a portrait of Sologub. The spectacle is depressing! If you like places like this, come and take a look!

We continue... For the construction of the main building of the rest house, centuries-old linden trees were cut down, and then the manor house of the early 19th century, in which the Ministry of Culture of the RSFSR intended to open a museum of the writer V.A. Sollogub, was demolished. And now all that remains from the estate are memories and a small functioning Church of the Nativity of Christ. It’s very sad, maybe the holiday home is not successful because Sologub’s manor house was demolished and the owner himself is dissatisfied? It seemed so to us! He was watching us reproachfully from the portrait...

I lived nearby and therefore often walked along this street, which in those days was called Vorovsky Street. Sometimes I attended popular meetings at that time in the House of Writers and the House of Architects. But somehow I didn’t really think about the history of the aristocratic mansions located on this street. But now it’s the turn to find out more about long-known and favorite places in Moscow.
So, Povarskaya is an aristocratic street. Probably, here there should be a real princely estate with wide gates, a large courtyard, and in the depths, of course, there should be a house with a mezzanine and columns. Well, this is exactly house number 52 on Povarskaya.

1. The ensemble of the estate in its modern form was formed gradually. First, in 1756, a small house was built on Bolshaya Nikitskaya in the possession of I.I. Vorontsova-Velyaminov. This house formed the central part of the estate. Then the Dolgorukov princes bought the house. In the 1770s, the house was expanded to Povarskaya with two symmetrical service buildings. A mezzanine was built over the house, and both facades, facing different streets, acquired Corinthian porticoes. On the side of Bolshaya Nikitskaya there is the same Corinthian portico as on the side of Povarskaya, but with columns half recessed into the wall of the building.

Bolshaya Nikitskaya, house No. 55

2. In the middle of the 19th century, the estate was bought by a native of the Bode baronial family, Mikhail Bode-Kolychev. The Baron family of Bode came from Alsace. During the French Revolution, their possessions were confiscated, and all family papers were destroyed. They came to Russia under Catherine II and swore allegiance to Russian citizenship. Mikhail was born into the family of Baron Lev Karlovich Bode and Natalya Fedorovna Kolycheva (1790-1860), the last representative of the boyar family of Kolychevs.

Portraits of Natalia Feodorovna (née Kolycheva) and Lev Karlovich Bode

3. In 1839-1843, Mikhail Bode studied in the Corps of Pages, after which he served in the court department. In 1853-1856, he participated in the Crimean War as part of the Moscow militia. At the end of the war, he settled in Moscow in a mansion on the corner of Povarskaya and Nikitskaya streets, and entered the service of the Moscow Palace Administration with the rank of chamberlain. He was the head of the Armory Chamber in the Kremlin, and in 1875-1883 he was vice-president of the Committee for the Construction of the Cathedral of Christ the Savior in Moscow. In 1864-1869 he was an honorary member of the Society of Lovers of Spiritual Enlightenment. Since by the second half of the 19th century there were no male representatives left in the Kolychev family, in 1875, with the highest permission of M.L. Bode was allowed to take the coat of arms and be called Baron Bode-Kolychev. In 1883 he received the court rank of chief chamberlain. He wrote the historical work “The Boyar Family of the Kolychevs.”
From the memoirs of Mikhail Andreevich Boratynsky about life in Moscow (House on Ostozhenka. The Boratynskys in Moscow (1850-1860s) / Moscow Journal. M., 2009. No. 10.):
“Baron Mikhail Lvovich himself was amazingly handsome and well-built, although I remember him as an elderly man. He was enormously tall, held his head very high, had a court shave, that is, he wore neither a mustache nor a beard; his hair was blond , soft and combed back. He was very affectionate with us, but strict: if we did something wrong, as expected (sometimes simply out of embarrassment), he managed to position himself in such a way that everyone bowed before him. He had home church in honor of St. Philip, the metropolitan, whom he considered his ancestor through his mother, born Kolycheva. Mikhail Lvovich loved music, he himself had a very pleasant thick tenor, played a little cello..."

On the left is the coat of arms of the Bode-Kolychevs. On the right is Mikhail Lvovich Bode-Kolychev. Drawing by T. Wright, 1843

4. With M.L. Bode-Kolychev, the front yard of the estate received the final symmetrical composition. In 1859, a house church in the pseudo-Russian style in the name of St. Philip was added to the eastern end of the main house. In this church in 1866 I.S. got married. Aksakov with A.F. Tyutcheva. In the mid-1850s, the widow of A.S. lived in the baron’s house. Griboyedova - N.A. Chavchavadze, and her sister, the ruler of Megrelia - E.A. Chavchavadze. During the period from 1852 to 1860, a two-story courtyard wing, a semicircular two-story gallery-passage between the main house, the church and a new wing were added to the main house. According to contemporaries, the Bode-Kolychev estate was a real museum with an art gallery and a collection of weapons.

The front gate of the estate

5. On the pediment of the main building of the estate is the coat of arms of the baronial family of Bode-Kolychevs: two lions holding a shield, above the shield there is a baronial crown and three noble helmets. Under the shield is the motto: Deus Honor et Gloria (God, Honor and Glory).

6. Mikhail Lvovich died in 1888. After his death, the estate was inherited by his daughter Natalya Mikhailovna. She was married to the son of neighbors on Povarskaya - Count Fedor Lvovich Sollogub. His mother was Maria Feodorovna Samarina. And the Samarins’ family domain was to the left of the Church of Boris and Gleb on Povarskaya, house no. 38.
Count Fyodor Lvovich Sollogub (1848-1890) - Russian artist who worked mainly in the theater. He also acted as an actor and amateur poet, and was a teacher at Moscow drama schools. Sollogub wrote drawings and watercolors mainly on historical subjects, and was known as an illustrator. He inherited from his father and grandfather a collection of valuable paintings and iconography. Fyodor Sollogub was well acquainted with Leo Tolstoy.

Monument to L.N. Tolstoy. View of the western wing

7. Fyodor Sollogub and his wife Natalya were friends of V.S. Solovyov. When the couple lived in the Demidovs’ house on Bolshoi Tolmachevsky, 3 (now the Scientific Pedagogical Library named after K. D. Ushinsky), Solovyov visited them more than once. From the memoirs of a relative Sollogub M.F. Mansurova (nee Samarina): “He was a man at that time about thirty-five, very gifted, an amateur poet and artist, with great humor and great charm. He was close to the galaxy of Fet, A. Tolstoy and Apukhtin. In his family life he was not happy and no longer lived at home. His mother, Countess Marya Fedorovna Sollogub (born Samarina) was a cousin of Trubetskoy’s grandmother, and therefore Fedya Sollogub visited the Trubetskoys as a relative and was on friendly terms with everyone. His talent, combined with Trubetskoy’s talent gave shine.”

View of the eastern wing

8. Countess Natalya Mikhailovna died in 1916, and the house passed to her eldest daughter, Countess Elena Feodorovna Sollogub. Thus, the Sollogubs owned the estate until the October Revolution. By this time, the front courtyard had received its final symmetrical composition, which included newly built decorative walls between the main house and the wings, a terrace at the semicircular passage between the central building and the eastern wing, and a four-column portico of the eastern wing. The main house with a classic six-column portico formed a wide covered gallery. Porticoes decorated the courtyard wings and service buildings attached to the main house.

View of the main entrance to the estate

9. Columns of the main portico - Corinthian order. Their characteristic feature is a bell-shaped capital, richly decorated with stylized leaves.

12. To the left and right of the main house there are two more porticoes, emphasizing the symmetrical composition of the facade. Four columns are spaced to the sides and reveal a three-part composition with an arched niche. In the 19th century, the entire space between the columns was entirely glazed and resembled a veranda or winter garden. The changes that appeared were apparently associated with the addition of the house temple just on this side of the house.

View of the eastern wing, behind it was the church.

14. Eastern wing with columns.

16. After the revolution, the owners of the estate often changed, and its fate was very stormy. At first, the Cheka was located here, later A.V. Lunacharsky lived with his family in the estate, the Literary Commission of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee, the Committee on Nationalities Affairs and a number of other institutions were located. In 1920, the “Palace of Arts” opened here, in which A.A. performed. Block, S.A. Yesenin, B.L. Pasternak, A.N. Tolstoy, I.G. Ehrenburg, M.I. Tsvetaeva and other writers. In 1922-1923, the Museum of Painting Culture was located in the buildings of the former Sollogubov estate. During the NEP years, the house was owned by private individuals who rented out apartments to residents. In 1930 they said goodbye to Mayakovsky here. In 1932, the USSR Writers' Union was located in the estate. In 1933, the mansion was nationalized. In 1940, a farewell ceremony was held at the estate for the writer M.A. Bulgakov.

17. Now this house houses various writers' organizations, as well as the editorial office of the magazine "Friendship of Peoples", and also a restaurant.

18. The main house of the Sollogubov city estate, the church, the service building, the fence with a gate and the territory of the front yard are objects of cultural heritage of federal significance.

20. There is an opinion that the estate served as the prototype of the Rostov estate in the novel by L.N. Tolstoy "War and Peace". In this regard, in Soviet times, a corresponding memorial plaque was installed on the front wall of the main house. Currently, this literary legend is being refuted by some researchers and scientists, but the board continues to support the legend.
This house is still connected with Leo Tolstoy by many family ties. The elder sister of Natalya Mikhailovna Bode-Kolycheva, Maria Mikhailovna, was the first wife of Mikhail Sergeevich Sukhotin, who, after her death in 1897, married Tolstoy’s eldest daughter, Tatyana Lvovna. They had Tolstoy's beloved granddaughter Tatyana, married to Albertini. From Bode’s first wife to M.S. Sukhotin had 5 children - 4 sons and a daughter. His daughter Natalya Mikhailovna became the second wife of Prince Nikolai Leonidovich Obolensky, whose first marriage was to the middle daughter of L.N. Tolstoy - Marya Lvovna. But after her death, he married the stepdaughter of his wife’s sister. They had 2 sons and 2 daughters. Son M.S. Sukhotin - Sergei, was the first husband of L.N.’s granddaughter. Tolstoy - Countess Sofia Andreevna Tolstoy, the one whose second marriage was to Sergei Yesenin, i.e. his last wife. You won’t be able to figure all this out right away, but it’s clear that there were family ties.

21. In 1956, a monument to L.N. was erected in the middle of the front yard of the estate. Tolstoy, made by sculptor G.N. Novokreshchenova and architect V.N. Vasnetsov.

22. The monument to L.N. Tolstoy was a gift from Ukrainian writers to Russian writers to commemorate the 300th anniversary of the reunification of Ukraine with Russia.

A lot of old photographs of the estate and its interiors in an interesting story