Why did the Russians avoid the residents of the German settlement. Lefortovo Palace in the German Settlement: the difficult history of the first palace of Peter the Great's era What settlement influenced Peter

The site, together with the Internet project “Walking around Moscow,” has opened a section in which it talks about atypical interesting places in the city for walking.

We have already published guides to the area where the Soviet intelligentsia lived and the curious residential outskirts. Next in line is the area of ​​the former German settlement on Baumanskaya (part of the Basmanny district). In the first of two parts of this guide, we will go to Kukuy, find Lefort's castle and find out where the mistress of Peter the Great could live. (The second part of walks around the German settlement).

The German settlement, located on the territory of modern Baumanskaya, dates back to the 17th century. In those days, foreigners were evicted from the territory of Moscow to the right bank of the Yauza, where they built a separate village for themselves.

Since Germans were then called not only people from Germany, but any foreigners in general (they did not know Russian, therefore, they were “dumb” in the eyes of Muscovites), the settlement received the name German. The common people called it “Kukui” - just like the stream that flowed nearby.

Alexander, resident of the area: “I’ve lived on Baumanskaya all my life. My mother was moved from work to a hostel on Bolshaya Pochtovaya Street even before I was born. Later, closer to entering school, our family was given an apartment on Novoryazanskaya Street. We’ve been living there ever since.

The Baumanskaya area is certainly of great cultural value. There are many historical buildings here. places, but for me, who lived here all 28 years of my life, it is memorable to others. I remember well the events with which I associate certain places. I remember well how the appearance of the area changed. In some places it became better for me, but in others the extraordinary charm was lost. One thing remained unchanged - I have always loved and continue to love every corner of it."

Mosaic near the Baumanskaya metro station, Baumanskaya street, 35/1, building 9

Right at the exit from the Baumanskaya metro station you can see the unusual facade of one of the houses opposite. There is a large mosaic on it with the caption “German Settlement 16th century”.

The panel consists of three parts. It shows a German settlement on the right bank of the Yauza. Just below you can find small images of typical Germans and German women of those times. Of course, this is not an accurate historical reconstruction, but a skillful stylization.

Although foreigners finally settled on the right bank of the Yauza only in the second half of the 17th century, the first German settlements here actually appeared earlier, in the 16th century. Then foreigners moved here from another settlement, which was burned in 1571 by the Crimean Khan Devlet Giray. But this first German settlement on the right bank of the Yauza was soon destroyed - by Ivan the Terrible in 1578. The Germans then returned to the settlement and rebuilt their town only after 1652, when they were ordered to leave their houses within the boundaries of Zlatoglavaya.

Christina, resident of the area: “I’ve been living on Baumanskaya for only a few months, I was born and raised in Lublin. I remember when I first came here - and this was long before I moved - the mosaic immediately caught my eye, which is located directly opposite the metro exit. At the same time, my friend, who has lived in this area for many years, claims that she noticed it only recently. However, they say that the mosaic was previously hidden behind some buildings - either cafes or shops. And then they were demolished, and now. You can easily come closer to the mosaic and look at the image.”

The former market square of the German Settlement,corner of Ladozhskaya and Friedrich Engels streets

Not far from the Baumanskaya metro station there was once one of the centers of the German Settlement - the market square. The place has still retained its original layout - despite the complete change of buildings. In addition, trade is still going on here.

Previously, the market sold firewood, food and hay. The buildings that have survived to this day were mostly built only in the middle of the 19th century, and some even later - at the beginning of the 20th century.

One of the pre-revolutionary buildings is notable for its unusual cladding. It is the work of a businessman who, at the beginning of the last century, renovated the façade of an old house in this way. The building has retained not only the cladding, but also the tiled frames from old signs, which is very rare and unusual for the capital.

Alexander, resident of the area:“If you walk from the main entrance of the school where I studied, straight to the arrow formed by Ladozhskaya and Friedrich Engels Street, you can find yourself in a place that I like now - I didn’t like it as a child. Noisy, full of cars and people, but as well as various establishments and shops that change here with amazing speed.

Until recently, a fair came here on weekends, adding even more buzz to the place. This area is always crowded with a lot of students (the buildings of the Bauman Moscow State Technical University are very close by), which creates a special atmosphere.”

Anna Mons House, Starokirochny Lane, 6

The German settlement, this mysterious island of the Western world in the capital of the huge Russian state, became the real passion of Peter the Great. It was here that people lived who knew how to build ships, owned other technologies unknown to Muscovy and simply lived differently - not at all like Russians.

Peter studied maritime affairs with the inhabitants of Kukui, Franz Timmerman and Karsten Brandt, and the German Settlement gave him a good friend, Franz Lefort. Here the future emperor met his famous favorite Anna Mons (aka Anna-Margaret von Monson, “The Monk” and Queen of Kukui), with whom Peter was in love for more than ten years.

There is no documentary evidence of where exactly Anna Mons lived, but there is an opinion that she could have owned the stone chambers - the only surviving residential building of that very German settlement. Now it is located on the territory of a precision instrument factory, which has not been operational since 2004.

In the meantime, it is known for sure that the chambers belonged to the father and son Van der Hulst, former doctors of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich and Peter.

Anya, resident of the area:“I am a native Muscovite, I have lived on Baumanskaya all my life. Before the revolution, my great-great-grandfather had his own small shop nearby. When he was dispossessed, I had to take my wife and children and move to the village. It seems to me that this is a good irony of fate - that in the end our family Somehow, miraculously, I ended up again in approximately the same area.”

Lefortovo Palace, 2nd Baumanskaya street, 3

Franz Lefort, Peter's loyal friend and associate, was born in Geneva, then went to Holland, and from there to Russia. In the German Settlement, the foreigner met the future great sovereign, with whom he became close. Lefort subsequently participated in the Crimean campaigns, received the ranks of general and admiral, and participated in all the affairs undertaken by Peter.

By order of Peter, in 1698, construction of the first building of the Lefortovo Palace began in the German settlement. Its appearance turned out to be European - the palace is considered the first attempt of the sovereign to free himself from the old Russian architectural canons, which he disliked so much.

Lefort celebrated a housewarming in February 1699, and died just three weeks later. Peter the Great began to use the buildings for performances, receptions and celebrations. Then he gave the palace to Menshikov, who slightly rebuilt it. When Menshikov went into exile, the palace returned to the treasury. The building was significantly damaged during the fire of 1737 and was rebuilt again in 1742, but pieces of Peter the Great's masonry were preserved in the wall of the central building.

Now the palace houses the Russian State Military Historical Archive and the Russian State Archive of Photographic Documents.

Slobodskaya Palace and Bauman Moscow State Technical University, 2nd Baumanskaya, 5

The Slobodskaya Palace, which in 1830 became the building of the Bauman University (then the Orphanage), originally belonged to Count Bestuzhev-Ryumin. He began building it in 1749.

The palace took so long to build that Bestuzhev-Ryumin never had time to live in it: he ended up in exile. The building ended up in the treasury and a few years later Catherine II gave it to Alexei Orlov, the younger brother of her famous favorite.

Orlov practically did not live in the palace, neglected it, and the building was eventually transferred to Prince Bezborodko. He rebuilt the building according to the design of Giacomo Quarenghi, and then gave it to Paul I. For some time, the imperial residence was located here.

The Slobodskaya Palace acquired its modern appearance after 1826, when it was rebuilt by Domenico Gilardi after the fire of 1812. The building was allocated to the Orphanage.

In 1868, the vocational school for boys turned into the Imperial Technical School, on the basis of which the Bauman Moscow State Technical University was created in Soviet times.

Anton, student at Bauman Moscow State Technical University: “I love the surroundings of my university. When I entered, I even bothered for a while, looked for guidebooks, read history. I wouldn’t say that I became an expert in this regard, but I can still name the main attractions of the area and the history of the Slobodsky Palace. It’s great that I had the chance study here."

Chechera River, Denisovsky Lane

The Chechera River, a tributary of the Yauza, was enclosed in a pipe at the beginning of the 20th century. Now it flows under Nizhnyaya Krasnoselskaya, Dobroslobodskaya streets, Denisovsky Lane. It was along this river that the border of the German Settlement used to pass. Not far from Denisovsky Lane, the Kukuy stream flowed into it, which gave the settlement its name.

Alexander, resident of the area:“Dobroslobodskaya street, Denisovsky, Aptekarsky and Tokmakov lanes are the most favorite city walking area, probably not only on Baumanskaya, but throughout Moscow. Small courtyards, kindergartens, shops, residential buildings. It’s always very calm here. Especially in the summer months when the streets and courtyards are completely empty.

I liked to walk through this area either towards the Kurskaya metro station or to Lefortovo Park - also one of my favorite places in the area, as well as the Yauza embankment in general - which now attracts a small free skating rink and tubing on the ponds."

Franz Hilferding House, Starokirochny lane, house 5, building 1

At the beginning of the 18th century, the settlement began to be built up with palaces of the nobility. If the small autonomy of the settlement (the ability not to pay taxes, brew beer, sell wine) disappeared in the time of Peter, then under Catherine the Great Sloboda the way of life almost completely disappeared.

Here, meanwhile, foreigners who came to Russia continued to settle. For example, Franz Hilferding, ballet dancer, choreographer and teacher. In 1758-1764, he staged performances and designed scenery for St. Petersburg and Moscow ballet troupes.

Lefortovo police station building, Starokirochny Lane, 13

In the 1770s, the Nesterov city estate was built here. The building turned out to be so strong that it survived the fire of 1812. 20 years after the fire, they decided to locate the Lefortovo police station here.

Currently, in the old building there is the Institute of Business Law, Faculty of Moscow State Law University (MSAL).

Novokirochny and Starokirochny lanes

Previously, both lanes were called simply Kirochny. Not far from them, on what is now Radio Street, 17, was the “old” church, the Lutheran Church of St. Michael, built in 1764 and destroyed after the revolution. Hence the name. In the 16th century, the first Lutheran church in Russia was located in its place. Before the fire of 1812, there was another, “new” church nearby - Saints Peter and Paul.

The names of the lanes today cause confusion, because the “old” church was located closer to the modern Novokirochny lane, and the “new” one - to Starokirochny.

Although the “old” church was demolished in 1928, on Novokirochny Lane you can find the building of a Lutheran school built at the end of the 19th century. Earlier, in the 17th century, local teacher Johann Gottfried Gregory staged skits on religious themes with his students. Rumors about this reached Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, and he invited Gregory to set up a theater in Preobrazhenskoye. This is how the first court theater appeared in Russia.

After the revolution, the TsAGI (Aerohydrodynamic Institute) building was built on the site of the “old” church. During the demolition of the church, the grave of a naturalist and scientist was discovered, to whom the capital's rumor attributed witchcraft abilities. What happened to the burial place of the “warlock” in the future is unknown.

Phanagorian barracks, Brigadirsky Lane, 13

The Phanagorian barracks are the oldest of the buildings preserved on Baumanskaya Street. Initially, at the beginning of the 18th century, this place was the site of the house of a surgeon of German origin, Johann Lestocq, who was expelled from Russia under Peter and returned by Catherine I.

Lestok became the first court physician in Russia. He, in addition, was a secret adviser to Elizabeth Petrovna and was among the organizers of the palace coup on November 25, 1741. After Elizabeth’s enthronement, the foreign doctor, however, again found himself in disgrace; he was exiled and released only under Peter III.

In the mid-18th century, the building was rebuilt for the Senate (the previous one burned down in a fire), and in the 19th century it was occupied by the military. At first, the cadet corps was located here, then the battalion of the Trinity-Sergius Lavra, and then the Phanagorian regiment. Now in the barracks there is a scientific center of the Russian Ministry of Defense.

Dmitry, resident of the area: “I’ve lived on Baumanskaya since childhood, I really love my district and know a lot about it. I’m generally interested in history. I remember at school I won some kind of competition for knowledge of our district. None of my peers knew what Kukuy was, and even with They are confused by the “old” and “new” churches.”

Anna Teplitskaya

German settlement

When Peter took stock of his actions in the last months of 1689, he was pleased with the results he had achieved. Sophia in the monastery atoned for her daring desire to seize the throne, her main supporters were beheaded or exiled, the Streltsy army regained discipline, the people were calmed down, satisfied and again trusted the authorities. The pathetic Tsarevich Ivan, forgotten in the depths of the Kremlin chambers, spends all his time with his wife, who deceives him, and with his daughters, who, perhaps, are not his at all. Foreign diplomats believed that Peter, who now had a free hand, should take the reins of power. The Dutch ambassador Van Keller wrote: “As a tsar (Peter) was very smart and insightful, and at the same time he knew how to achieve affection from everyone and showed a clear passion for the military, they expected heroic actions from him and foreshadowed the day when the Tatars would finally find a master "

But Van Keller was very wrong. Having devoted all his strength to the struggle for power, Peter had no desire to use his advantages. It was said that this superhuman effort left him exhausted and he did not feel ready to bear the burden of responsibility that was placed on him. The king was more interested in war games, feasts and love games with maids, rather than politics. He didn't like office work. At the first opportunity, he ran away from the Kremlin, from this gloomy and solemn golden cage, which was filled with monks and courtiers, to run through the streets, command his army or stand at the helm of a boat on Lake Pleshcheyevo. In governing the state, he relied heavily on his mother, the weak and ignorant Natalya Kirillovna. She acted with the help of three boyars, Patriarch Joachim and the Duma. This society was militant and retrograde. At the insistence of the patriarch, foreigners, so beloved by Peter, were accused of heresy, religious disputes around the Bible began again, Jesuits were expelled from the country, the German Kuhlmann was burned alive on Red Square...

Peter was irritated by this intolerance, but he did not consider it necessary to interfere in events. Taking time away from his studies, he had to pay visits to his wife from time to time. Sweet and ordinary Evdokia was an exemplary product of the Russian mansion. She knew how to read and write, blushed at every occasion, believed in dreams and all sorts of superstitions, and was more sentimental than sensual next to her passionate husband. She called him “my joy”, “my heart”, “my light”, “my little paw” and dutifully obeyed all his demands in the hope of conceiving a child. And although the days when Peter spent in his marital bed were rare and often brought disappointment, Evdokia became pregnant and safely gave birth to a son, Tsarevich Alexei, on February 19, 1690. The birth of his first son was a gift from heaven for Peter, the confidence that the life of his family would continue and not die with him. The Tsar shouted with happiness, laughed at the top of his lungs, squeezed the wrists of the young woman in labor in a fit of gratitude, drank vodka, ordered the cannons to fire, and soon, leaving his exhausted mother and screaming baby, returned to his bachelor life in the hospitable houses of the German Settlement, where others were waiting for him women who are more experienced and attractive. However, he returned to the Kremlin for the feasts, which, as expected, were arranged in honor of the happy event. The whole city took part in this rejoicing. People rejoiced equally in palaces and huts. “After the birth of the prince, they did nothing, but only organized feasts and parties as widely as possible,” wrote the Dutch ambassador Van Keller. – However, these entertainments were almost always accompanied by significant damage, disorder, fights and crimes... For many it ended badly... It would be better if the days of such celebrations of Bacchus were canceled, because well-bred people could not leave the house so as not to be offended, despite the fact that in many places in the city there were military posts to prevent drunken violence.”

As soon as the festivities dedicated to the birth of the prince ended, Patriarch Joachim died on March 27, 1690. In his “testament,” he called on the tsar to refuse to meet with foreigners, deprive them of command posts in the army, not allow churches to be built in the German settlement, and introduce the death penalty for those who preach conversion to another faith. Thus, the patriarch voiced the disgust of the Russian people towards people who came from other places, who spoke an incomprehensible language, prayed in barns, did not honor the Mother of God and - oh horror! - ate a grass called lettuce, “just like cattle.” Not at all thinking of obeying the instructions of the deceased, Peter proposed to make him the successor of the enlightened and liberal-minded Pskov Metropolitan Markell. But Tsarina Natalya Kirillovna, who did not share her son’s commitment to everything Western, following the advice of the clergy, preferred Metropolitan Adrian of Kazan. There were enough pretexts to push Marcellus aside: this priest spoke “barbarian” languages ​​(which were Latin and French) and, moreover, his beard was not of sufficient length.

Irritated by this decision, Peter again felt the need to get rid of the tutelage of the all-powerful clergy. The Russian Church formed a state within a state with its enormous wealth, countless tax-free lands, its own justice, serfs and its own fortified fortress-monasteries. The patriarch, elected by the church council with the approval of the tsar, became a dignitary independent of the sovereign, who was not subordinate to anyone. Metropolitans, archbishops, bishops, monks, and priests depended on him. The monks were single and, as a rule, well educated; priests are married, unhappy, uneducated. They did not have the trust of the people, who saw in them not the conductors of God's will, but simple ministers of worship with beautiful voices and solemn gestures. To assert the superiority of spiritual power over temporal power, the tsar traditionally took part in the church procession that took place on Palm Sunday in Moscow. He had to lead the donkey carrying the patriarch by the bridle. Peter refused to follow this custom. He was never seen repenting and walking with his head bowed next to the donkey, on which the head of the Church imposingly sat in his most expensive clothes. The Tsar continued friendly relations with the inhabitants of the German Settlement. The xenophobia of Joachim, Natalya Kirillovna and the Duma boyars became unbearable for him, as did everything that reminded him of old Rus'. Peter wanted to escape from these customs of his ancestors, in which he felt cramped, like heavy clothes with the smell of incense and mold. Rebelling against the traditions of his ancestors, he dined with Major General Patrick Gordon. At fifty-five years old, Gordon joined the Russian army, fought in Sweden, Germany, Poland, participated in two notorious campaigns of Vasily Golitsyn in the Crimea, and in several commercial missions in England. It was he who gave Peter instructors to train his amusing regiments. During the coup d'etat, it was he who convinced foreign officers to oppose the regent and join the tsar in the Trinity-Sergius Lavra. From that day on, he became a friend and adviser to Peter, who liked the general’s chivalrous character, knowledge of Western morals and his stern wisdom with a touch of pedantry.

Another “friend and adviser” of the young sovereign was the Swede Franz Lefort, who also sided with Peter at a critical moment. A restless adventurer, Franz Lefort served under various banners before landing in Arkhangelsk and enlisting in the Russian army. He was thirty-five years old, almost as tall as Peter, he did not shine with education, although poorly, but he spoke Russian, Dutch, German, Italian and English. Lefort spoke fluent French, traveled to many countries, getting into different situations so often that those listening to his stories had the impression that he was dealing with a dozen different people. This life of constant movement did not change Lefort’s naturally cheerful disposition. His enthusiasm, liveliness, courage and passion for luxury and debauchery attracted the king. He was tireless in physical exercise. He rode wild horses perfectly, shot with a gun and bow better than anyone else, drank a lot without getting drunk. In the house of this nice, merry fellow, Peter felt better than in other places. Here he smoked, drank, yelled, fought and argued with pleasure. The feasts usually lasted for three days. Gordon left these feasts with a heavy head and a sore stomach, and Lefort and the Tsar, cheerful and cheerful, were ready to start all over again in an hour. Peter liked the way he was received so much that he took his Russian friends with him, and the house became too small for such a company. The king expanded and decorated it at his own expense. The day after the next holiday, one of the foreign guests wrote: “General Lefort wonderfully received and treated the guests for four days, His Majesty, with the main nobles of the country, distinguished foreign guests and ladies, there were two hundred people in total. In addition to the pomp of large feasts, there was also wonderful music, daily balls, fireworks, and every day twenty salvos from twelve cannons. His Majesty ordered to make a very beautiful bedroom, upholstered in fabric, which could accommodate one and a half thousand people and was more like a real and very beautiful royal bedroom. On the walls hung fifteen large silk carpets, woven so skillfully that it was impossible to look away. The general's house was superbly furnished. Silver dishes, weapons, paintings, mirrors and carpets - everything unusual and expensive; in addition, the general had many servants, two dozen thoroughbred horses and a personal guard of twenty people on duty at his gates.”

Ladies were also present at these feasts - “Scottish women with a thin profile, German women with a dreamy look, or portly Dutch women” who had nothing in common with the modest hermits of Moscow towers. The spouses and daughters of artisans, merchants, and foreign officers wore dresses that emphasized the waist, freely entered into conversation, laughed, sang their songs and, without false modesty, rushed into the arms of their gentlemen when the orchestra began to play dance music. Some of them were not distinguished by severity of character. The one who seduced Peter was none other than the former mistress of his friend Lefort - Anna Mons, the daughter of an immigrant from Westphalia. Her father, Johann Mons, kept a tavern in the German settlement, where Anna and her sister treated guests. It was there that Lefort noticed her. Anna Mons did not receive any education, collected witchcraft recipes, was quite greedy, demonstrated her vulgar manners, but at the same time remained beautiful, lively, spontaneous, funny and desirable. What a contrast to the pious, bored and whining Evdokia! And Lefort gave up the young woman to the king, who desired her so much. Happy to have soared so high, Anna Mons expected to receive luxurious gifts from the Tsar. However, very soon she was disappointed. Her new lover was stingy with money, which could not be said about affection. He took possession of her rudely, selfishly, like a martinet, and gave her only trinkets. At least that's how it was in the beginning. Gradually, the number and cost of gifts began to increase. She received precious jewelry, lands with two hundred and ninety-five peasant houses... The king no longer hid his connection. He was proud of her and introduced his mistress to foreign diplomats.

However, this did not stop him from cheating on Anna with random partners during an orgy or spending the night in one of the houses in the German settlement, where he was known under the name “Herr Peter.” But he always returned to Anna Mons as the best source of pleasure. In fact, he loved to use women to satisfy his sexual needs, but he had no respect or respect for them, no sentimental interest. He despised them as much as he desired them. He often preferred frank relationships with men to dinners together at Lefort’s house. Then the guests, following the example of the king, lost their restraint. These celebrations were called “battles with Ivashka Khmelnytsky” (from the word “hops”). And often feasts turned into battles, “so amazing,” wrote Kurakin, “that there were many deaths.” Sometimes the king, maddened by wine, would fall into the arms of one of his drinking companions or draw his sword to pierce him. It was with great difficulty that he was pacified. At other times he contented himself with slapping his opponents or tearing off their wigs. But the rest of the time, despite the huge portions of alcohol that he consumed, Peter maintained his sanity. While some figures scurried around him, faces grimaced, tongues loosened, he surveyed those around him with a sharp gaze and remembered the words of revelation of his subjects, uttered in a drunken delirium between bouts of hiccups. This was one of his ways to find out the secrets of his surroundings.

Peter's passion for drunken gatherings was accompanied by a passion for illuminations and fireworks. His friend Gordon, who knew some pyrotechnic subtleties, taught the king several lessons. To justify his new passion, Peter referred to the need to accustom the Russian people to the noise and smell of gunpowder. In fact, he rejoiced like a child, artistically combining volleys and giving orders to the artillery pieces. He was ready to launch rockets and make emblematic figures in the sky for any reason. Peter ran from one place to another, waving a lit fuse, enjoying and laughing, with a face black from gunpowder, and watched as bouquets of sparks blossomed in the sky above Preobrazhensky. As always, the king had fun beyond measure, and these fun turned out to be quite dangerous. So, on February 26, 1690, Gordon announced in his “Gazette” the death of a nobleman, killed by a falling five-pound rocket. The same misfortune happened again a few months later. This time, Timmerman's son-in-law was injured, his face was burned, and three workers died on the spot. But this was childish prank compared to the danger to which the Tsar’s comrades were exposed during the maneuvers that Peter called “amusing.” He ordered the creation of Presburg, a miniature city on the banks of the Yauza. It had a fortress, barracks, court, administrative offices and a small port with a fleet of boats in the roadstead. All this was intended for the military entertainment of the sovereign. The army was divided into two camps. The officers were foreigners, the junior command staff were Russians. Although Peter was the “master” of this army, he himself was content with the place of a simple sergeant in the Preobrazhensky regiment.

The roar of cannons, grenade explosions, shots heard from all sides, infantry advancing on the front flank, unfurled banners, the sounds of trumpets and drums. Perhaps this imitation of war was a kind of means for the king to harden himself, to strengthen his aching nerves? On June 2, 1690, Peter, who led the assault with his sword drawn, was burned in the face by a grenade explosion. A little later, the same fate befell Gordon. Many officers received puncture wounds in hand-to-hand combat. In October 1691, during one of these attacks, which Gordon called a “warlike ballet,” Prince Ivan Dolgoruky was killed. This death saddened Peter, but did not force him to abandon his goals. By order of the tsar, two armies, twenty thousand men each, were to fight in a gigantic “amusing battle” in October 1694. Fyodor Romodanovsky was to command the army defending the city of Presburg, created for battle, while another army, under the command of Buturlin, was to attack his positions. These maneuvers were called the “Kozhukhovo Campaign” from the name of the village of Kozhukhovo where they took place. To make this spectacle even more interesting, Peter decided to give Romodanovsky the title of King of Presburg, and Buturlin was to portray the King of Poland. The fury of the attackers was no less than the determination of the defenders. Lefort, who took part in the operation, wrote: “They threw grenades, something like pots or jugs, in which there were four pounds of gunpowder... During the attack, my face and ear were burned, and I became afraid for my eyes.” The king said to Lefort: “I am furious at your misfortune. You said you would rather die than leave your post. I have nothing to reward you with, but I will do it.” Losses during the maneuvers amounted to twenty-four killed and eighty wounded. The defeated “King of Poland” was captured and taken to the camp of the “King of Presburg”. Having received the unfortunate conquered enemy, the “King of Presburg” arranged a feast for all participants in the battle. Peter was pleased with the results of this magnificent spectacle. All that remained was to wait for the real battle.

However, a strong army was needed not only on land, but also on water. The king did not forget about his favorite ships. By his order, the famous Dutch carpenter Karsten-Brandt, together with twenty of his companions, settled on the shores of Lake Pereyaslavl to build a flotilla. Near the shipyard, a church and a wooden house, similar to a craftsman’s dwelling, were hastily built. The windows were made of mica, and a gilded wooden double-headed eagle topped with a crown was attached to the door. It was here, to the masters, that the king came from time to time, secretly from everyone. Dressed like a simple worker, he skillfully handled an axe, a hammer, and a plane, so that shavings flew from him in all directions. He liked working with wood and communicating with these stern people who knew their job well and taught him without any regard for their origin. Moreover, this is a beautiful place just two days’ drive from Moscow. Sometimes someone from the king’s entourage came here, accompanied by ladies of easy virtue, bringing with them carts of wine, beer and kegs of vodka. And there was a break. But soon Peter got down to business again. In February 1692, his mother asked him to come to Moscow to meet with the Persian Shah. The king did not consider it necessary to do this.

Soon the lake seemed to Peter a pitiful puddle, unworthy of his big dream. He needed a “real sea.” Natalya Kirillovna, fearing her son’s carelessness, begged him to abandon his travel plans. He promised her not to board the ship and said that he would watch from afar as the ships were launched.

In July 1693, the tsar went to the northern regions, to Arkhangelsk, the only port in his state where it was possible to breathe sea air. A group of one hundred people travels with him, including Lefort, Romodanovsky, Buturlin, a priest and two court dwarfs. Arriving in Arkhangelsk, Peter was so fascinated by the gray waves beating on the shore, the light fog hiding the horizon, the bustle of sailors on the pier, the commercial hustle and bustle of the city where all the merchants from Europe gathered, that he could no longer restrain himself and forgot about the promise made to his mother. And so he, already dressed in the uniform of a Dutch sailor, on board the yacht “St. Peter”, went out into the open sea. A sharp wind hit him in the face, strong waves hit the deck under his feet. Standing next to the helmsman, the Tsar dreamed of the day when the Russian flag would fly over these expanses, which so far only accepted foreign ships. Upon returning to Arkhangelsk, he decides to create a navy. The first ship will be built in Russia by local craftsmen, the other will be ordered from Holland, by the mayor of Amsterdam, Witsen: it will be a frigate with forty-four guns. Meanwhile, having learned that her fearless son had dared to go to sea to the borders of the Arctic Ocean, Natalya Kirillovna begged him in a letter to return to Moscow. She even wrote to him on behalf of her three-year-old grandson Alexei: “Hello and good health to you for many years to come, my dear father, Tsar Peter Alekseevich. Come back to us soon, you are our joy, our sovereign. I ask you for this mercy because I see my grandmother’s sadness.” Finally, with great regret, Peter got ready to head back.

In Moscow he found his mother sick and worried. He felt great tenderness and reverent respect for her; she seemed to him the only creature in the world whose love was not tainted by any calculation. But, despite all the care of the court doctors, the queen died on January 25, 1694. Peter's sadness was like a summer thunderstorm. He howled, cried, prayed. But on the third day after Natalya Kirillovna’s funeral I was already having dinner at Lefort’s with a circle of cheerful friends. He needed the wine, the noise, the smiles of Anna Mons to cope with the grief that befell him. Sadness, he believed, was an illness even more serious than the one from which his mother died. A person’s duty is to enjoy all earthly pleasures, and not look stubbornly into a hole that will someday be dug for him. On January 29, 1694, he returned to his maritime passion and informed Apraksin: “Although I have not yet recovered from my grief, I am writing to you about the affairs of the living: I am sending you Niklaus and Jan to build a small ship. Let them be given the wood and iron they need; let them make one hundred and fifty hats from dog skins and the same number of pairs of shoes of different sizes ... "

In the spring, he received a letter from Witsen informing him that the warship ordered in Amsterdam would arrive in Arkhangelsk in July. Peter wanted to be there to meet him in person. On May 8, the Tsar and his retinue leave Lake Pereyaslavl on twenty-two large punt boats and raft along the rivers to the North. On May 17, the flotilla, ascending the Dvina, passed in front of Kholmogory and entered Arkhangelsk to the greeting of cannon fire. What to do while waiting for a Dutch ship? Peter was not used to inactivity next to the sea, the movement and splash of the waves of which always attracted him. He boarded the yacht “St. Peter” with several friends and a priest and decided to go to the monastery built on the Solovetsky Islands. When the ship had already sailed one hundred and twenty miles from Arkhangelsk, a strong storm arose over the White Sea. In a hurry, the sailors began to assemble the sails. Caught up by a huge wave, the yacht began to crack at all its seams. There was despair on board. Foreseeing a shipwreck, the most experienced sailors gave up the fight and entrusted their souls to the Lord. The king's relatives wept and knelt before the priest, who blessed them. The king confessed, took communion and took the helm in his hands. This time he had good self-control. They even said that the despair of his companions inspired him. Peter's determination encouraged the crew. On the advice of the helmsman, he directed the yacht to Una Bay to wait out the hurricane there. The maneuver was a success. And people believed in a miracle. As soon as he stepped on solid ground, Peter himself made a cross from wood one and a half fathoms high and wrote on it in Dutch to prove that he was fluent in the language of navigators: “This cross was made by skipper Peter in the summer of 1694.” Then, placing the cross on his mighty shoulders, he carried it to the place where he landed on the shore and installed it there. Returning to Arkhangelsk, the king threw a feast and celebrated with songs and fireworks God's mercy, which saved his life. He was seen with a beer mug in his hand, sometimes next to friends, sometimes with port sailors. “He found greater pleasure and satisfaction in talking with our fellow countrymen and contemplating our ships than with his own,” noted the Dutch ambassador Van Keller. Finally, on July 21, 1694, the raised sails of the frigate Saint Prophete appeared in the distance. The cannons thundered in the city, the bells rang, Peter rejoiced as if he were not twenty-two years old, but twelve years old. He had never received a better gift. Climbing on board, he admired this miracle: he liked everything, the upper deck and cabins, sailors and tackle, cannons and barrels of French wine. He immediately dictated a letter to the burgomaster of Amsterdam, who equipped this ship for him:

Nothing else to write to me now, they just wanted to write for a long time, now in the 21st day it happened: Jan Flam arrived safely, on which the ship had 44 guns and 40 sailors... I will write more at length in this mail, but now, having had fun, it’s inconvenient to write at length, especially But it’s impossible: in such cases, Bacchus is always revered, who with his leaves obscures the eyes of those who want to write at length.” And he signed in Flemish as a sign of friendly feelings: “Schiper Fonshi Psantus Profetities,” which was supposed to mean Shipper van Schip Sanctus Propheties, that is, the skipper of the ship “Holy Prophecy.” At this time, Peter was completely absorbed in Holland. He adopted her naval flag: red, white and blue horizontal stripes were now on the Russian flag, only the order of the colors changed. But it was still necessary to organize the hierarchy of this nascent fleet. Peter joyfully distributed titles and positions. Romodanovsky, despite the fact that he had no knowledge of navigation science, became an admiral, Buturlin, also ignorant in this matter, became a vice admiral, Gordon became a rear admiral; As for Lefort, who lived for a long time on the shores of Lake Leman, he was appointed commander of the first warship of the Russian fleet. Peter remained a simple captain, just as he had once been content with the position of a simple bombardier in the ground army. This modest choice of his place was one of the traits of his character, actually hiding his exorbitant pride. True greatness, the king believed, did not lie in titles, clothes or jewelry. Throughout his life, he tried to be simply dressed and live no better than the court nobility, in order to prove that his power was not based on external signs with which monarchs surround themselves for fear that they would not be given due respect. In him, in a strange way, buffoonery and seriousness, diligence and unrestraint coexisted. During the break between two feasts, he studied maps, read treatises on artillery science, became involved in the construction of sailing ships for long-distance voyages, forced Gordon to translate the rules of maritime signals, read foreign newspapers and intercepted letters brought to him by the head of the Postal Service, Andrei Vinius, the son of a Dutch emigrant, converted to Orthodoxy. Intercepting correspondence from all over the world, he became increasingly convinced that Russia, having an unfavorable geographical position, would never be able to breathe freely and develop harmoniously until it broke the yoke that was strangling it. On the globe, which he slowly rotated with his hand, his gaze was always drawn to two points: the Black Sea and the Baltic. To gain access to them, there is only one means: war. But the tsar did not consider himself ready for war, despite the military maneuvers carried out in recent years. However, his advisors also advised him to be careful.

One of Peter's confidants was Alexander Menshikov, an old pastry chef friend who had never opened a book in his life, but, dressed in the uniform of the Preobrazhensky Regiment, had an amazing bearing! Menshikov, who came from the bottom of society, had a lively mind, excessive ambitions, a penchant for luxury and blind devotion to his benefactor. There were rumors that he was Peter's favorite and that, loving women, the king did not disdain his camp on occasion. One of his contemporaries, Bergholz, wrote that at court there was a young and handsome young man, a former lieutenant, who was kept only “for the pleasure” of the sovereign. Subsequently, the Saxon artist Dannenhauer will make, at Peter's request, a portrait of one of his pages in the nude. Villebois wrote that “the king had fits of violent love, and when they began, the age and gender of the partner did not matter much.” In his letters, Peter called Menshikov “the child of my heart.” He took him everywhere with him, generously showering him with titles and giving him gifts, as if there was a favorite in Menshikov’s place. Only this “favorite” was two meters tall, spoke in a deep voice and drank vodka.

Also next to Peter were three ministers for current affairs: the hypocrite and sharper Gabriel Golovkin, so stingy that, upon returning home, he hung his wig with long red hair on a nail solely for reasons of economy. Fyodor Golovin was a balanced, educated and hardworking man, about whom Leibniz wrote that “he was the wittiest and most educated of Muscovites.” The third, the stern and pious Prince Prozorovsky, who crossed himself every time he was about to open the door for fear that some heretic had touched the handle in front of him. The rest revolved around this triumvirate: the honest but stern and cruel Prince Romodanovsky, a boyar whom even the Tsar himself addressed as “Majesty.” The real sovereign ended his letters addressed to Romodanovsky, for greater fun, with the following words: “Your Majesty’s obedient servant Peter.” Romodanovsky lived among Byzantine luxury, his retinue numbered five hundred people, and visitors to his palace were greeted by a tamed bear, holding in its paws a vessel full of pepper, which those entering had to drain to the bottom before they were allowed to cross the threshold. Sheremetev, a descendant of the famous boyar dynasty, earned the respect of Ambassador Whitworth as a “true gentleman,” but Peter, respecting his honesty, considered Sheremetev to be a deadly dull man. Peter Tolstoy is a real example of hatred and deceit, about which the Tsar spoke jokingly: “When you are dealing with Tolstoy, you need to keep a stone in your pocket to hit him in the teeth before he has time to devour you.” Once, touching Tolstoy’s forehead, he exclaimed: “Oh, head! Head! If I didn’t know how clever you are, I would have ordered your beheading long ago!” Another associate of the tsar was the “dodger” Shafirov, the son of a commission agent, a Jew of Polish origin who converted to the Orthodox faith. Working in the service of a cloth shop seller, this small, burry and sweet man was noticed by the tsar, who appreciated his culture and abilities for languages: Shafirov spoke six foreign languages! Peter gave him as an assistant to Golovkin, who needed a polyglot secretary. Thus began a dizzying rise for Shafirov. Other advisers surrounding the sovereign were: Yaguzhinsky, Matveev, Dolgoruky, Kurakin, Buturlin, Tatishchev... Some had very noble ancestors of noble blood, others came from the lowest strata of society. Whatever their origins, Peter addressed his companions with equal severity and friendliness, at the same time suspicious and naive. While he did not fully know how to use the people around him. Most of them had titles and had no real business. They all gathered at noisy feasts in Lefort's house. Some, already aged or in poor condition, were present there against their own free will. But it was impossible to refuse the royal invitation if a person valued his place. Even if one of the courtiers did not like what was happening, he had to laugh and drink, despite the thick smoke of smoking pipes, the smell of bad wine and the leapfrog of dwarfs in jester's clothes who besieged the table.

Soon these chaotic festivities no longer satisfied Peter. He wanted to give them official status and make them regular, going very far in his pranks and irreverence. Thus he founded the "clown conclave", or "Cathedral of Great Buffoonery", intended to honor the cult of Bacchus with copious and frequent libations. At the head of this cheerful company, he put the most inveterate drunkard, his former mentor Nikita Zotov, who was awarded the titles “Prince-Papa” and “Prince-Patriarch”. To get into the role, Zotov received a salary of two thousand rubles, a palace and was in charge of twelve servants who were selected from stutterers. At “ceremonies” he always held a scepter and an orb made of tin, spewed incoherent speeches, where obscenities alternated with quotations from the Bible, and blessed those present kneeling in front of him with two crossed smoking pipes in their hands and pork tripe on their head. Then he let everyone kiss the statue of Bacchus instead of the icon. Zotov danced in front of the guests, staggering and belching, wearing a priest's vestment, which he picked up, showing off his bow legs. The conclave surrounded the prince-pope, forming twelve false cardinals and a large number of false bishops, false archimandrites and false deacons, drunkards and incorrigible gluttons. The Tsar himself was the “archdeacon” in this company. He attended all the gatherings and drank the most. It was Peter who personally drew up the provisions on the Order, established the hierarchy of its members and described, like the details of these vulgar meetings. The chosen ones, dressed in the red dresses of cardinals, had to go to the house of the prince-pope, called the Vatican, to thank him and show him honor. Four stutterers escorted the guests into the hall of the papal consistory, where behind a pile of barrels stood the throne of His Most Jocular Serene Highness. The first question asked of the newcomer was not “Do you believe?”, as in the primitive church, but “Do you drink?” And the prince-papa added: “Reverend, open your mouth and swallow what they give you, and tell us something good.” Vodka flowed like a river into the throats of those who entered and the one who greeted them. After which a procession was sent to the neighboring house, the necessary condition for the participants was to stay together. Dressed in the costume of a Dutch sailor, Peter opened the procession by playing the drum. Behind him walked the prince-papa, surrounded by false monks and sitting on a barrel pulled by four bulls. Instead of an escort, the procession was accompanied by goats, pigs and bears. A spacious gallery with arranged couches awaited the participants in the procession. Next to the couches were placed huge barrels, cut into two parts, one of which was intended for food, and the other for meeting natural needs. It was forbidden to leave your couch until the end of the holiday, which lasted three days and three nights. Servants, dwarfs, and jesters zealously helped quench the thirst of Their Eminences, setting them up for obscene conversations. Among the specially recruited jesters were people with physical deformities, whom the sovereign found very funny, and those who were “punished” for not fully fulfilling their duties earlier. Everyone was dressed in suits and grimaced around the “cardinals,” who raised their elbows at the signal and knocked back glass after glass. Vodka, wine, beer, mead - everything was used, the drinks were mixed, and the alcohol-soaked, sweaty, exhausted and unhappy guests cursed themselves, cried, rolled on the ground or fought, overcome by dull rage. They were vomiting on the chic fancy dress costumes. The king drank like everyone else, but maintained a clear mind. Among the drunks, Peter applauded their extravagance and encouraged them to stoop even lower. “In all the holidays organized by this king,” wrote Villebois, “he had the habit, when people’s minds began to become clouded from wine, to walk around the tables and listen to what was said there; and when he heard speeches from one of the guests that he wanted to hear repeated from a sober person, Peter took note of him.” On New Year's Eve, astonished Muscovites saw a blasphemous procession unfolding: the prince-papa appeared riding on a barrel harnessed to twelve bald men. The prince-papa had a miter made of tin on his head, and he was dressed in a chasuble embroidered with a pattern from playing cards. He was followed by “cardinals” in comic cassocks, sitting on bulls and waving bottles. Further on, in sleighs drawn by pigs, bears and dogs, other “dignitaries” rode. They all shouted blasphemous verses. Stopping in front of the richest houses, the participants in the procession forced them to serve them drinks. Who would dare refuse? The jester's cortege appeared on every church holiday, and rumors spread among the people and the nobility: maybe the king was the Antichrist?

Having learned that these public insults to the faith were inspired and directed by Peter, Evdokia cried, regretted that Natalya Kirillovna was no longer there to bring her son to reason, and prayed to the Lord to bring the Tsar to reason. But in vain she begged her husband to abandon these demonic clowns; he laughed and drove her away. His wife was tiring him. Did he know what the establishment of a prince-pope and drunken cardinals corresponded to in his mind? Of course, having come up with entertainment with the prince-pope and drunken cardinals, Peter did not want to discredit the spiritual power, which had authority in the country that rivaled his own. The king refused to lead the donkey of Patriarch Adrian by the string! And now he became more and more impudent. But Peter remained a convinced Christian. He respected the Church, but wanted the clergy not to interfere in state affairs and government of the country. As for the pope, the incomprehensible leader of the Catholics, he seemed to Peter to be just a distant, strangely dressed character who had no influence on Russia. This means that you can make fun of him, like a carnival hero, without offending God. A lover of great farce, the king joined the gaming traditions of the Middle Ages, mixing the sacred with the profane, ridiculing kings, popes, abbots, and for many days without stopping uttering godless speeches to save his soul. He had a natural desire to excite everyone around him. And first of all, break the ancient Russian customs that were folk or religious. He liked Protestants because they dared to make changes in the religious sphere. Only they did it seriously and important, while his denial was funny, cartoonish and crazy. Or maybe he was mocking “His Majesty’s” slave Romodanovsky? Why then was it forbidden to mock the patriarch and the pope? It was funny to tear our stomachs and drink until we lost consciousness. All excuses were good to break up the usual course of daily existence. After a free feast, the spirit becomes more alive. Peter shared the view that political genius and the ability to drink alcohol in large doses are combined in great people. A giant, full of strength and power, he obeyed only primitive instincts that came from the depths of centuries. But never during these Saturnalia did Peter forget that he was a king. Maybe it was precisely in those moments when his companions believed that the king was already completely drunk that he conceived his best projects? One of the things he worked on more than others was the resumption of hostilities against Turkey. He wanted to gain the upper hand where Sophia and Vasily Golitsyn failed twice. His brother Ivan, a pale ghost, was unable to resist his plans. As, indeed, no one from his circle. However, Peter had doubts. How to find out whether he has already become a real military man or is still the captain of a “funny regiment”?

During the campaigns of Ivan IVto Livonia in Moscowa large number of captured Germans appear. Some of them were distributed to cities. The other part settles in Moscow, where they are allocated a place near the mouth of the Yauza, on its right bank. In 1578this German settlement was subjected to pogrom by Ivan IV.

Under Boris Godunov, many foreigners appeared in Moscow, but during the Time of Troubles, the German Settlement was burned to the ground, and its population fled to the cities. Those who remained in Moscow settled in the Poganye Ponds area, on Arbat, Tverskaya Street and on Sivtsev Vrazhek.

Gradually, the number of foreigners in Moscow is increasing, which served as a reason for separating them from Orthodox Muscovites. In 1652 By royal decree, they were moved outside the city to the so-called New German Settlement, which was located in the same place as the former German Settlement. Two Lutheran churches were also transported here from Moscow, and special places were allocated for them, as well as a place for the Calvinist (Dutch) church.

German settlement and German cemetery on the plan of Moscow 1630-1640. Engraving from "Journey" by A. Olearius

Foreigners who settled in Moscow found themselves in an advantageous position: they did not pay trade duties, could “smoke wine” and brew beer. This caused considerable envy among the Russian population, the influence of foreigners on clothing and life aroused fears among the clergy, and homeowners complained that the “Germans” were raising land prices. The government had to satisfy these complaints and around 1652. The Germans were ordered to sell their houses to the Russians; foreign churches were demolished and the foreigners themselves were asked to move to the area of ​​Nemetskaya Street (Baumanskaya Street), where a new German settlement was formed.

By the end of the 17th century. it was already a real German (foreign) town with clean, straight streets, cozy and tidy houses.

In the second half of the 17th century. one of the first was opened on the banks of the Yauzain Moscow there was a manufactory - the manufactory of Albert Paulsen, and in 1701 J. G. Gregory opened a private pharmacy in the German settlement. The lane on which the pharmacy stood was named Aptekarsky Lane.

Lefort's house

Peter I was a frequent guest in the German settlement. Here he met Lefort and Gordon , future associates of the king and started an affair with Anna Mons. Also under Peter I, German settlements lost their autonomy and began to submit to the Burmister Chamber.

Franz Yakovlevich Lefort Patrick Leopold Gordon

Since the beginning of the 18th century. the usual suburban way of life almost disappeared, the territory began to be built up with palaces of the nobility. On the banks of the Yauza, the silk factory of the Russian entrepreneur P. Belavin, the tape factory of N. Ivanov and various other industries appeared.

After 1812, the former German settlement was inhabited mainly by merchants and townspeople. After the Nemetskaya Sloboda it was named Nemetskaya Street (from 1918 - Baumanskaya Street). And from the middle of the 19th century. The name German settlement completely disappears from the Moscow vocabulary and the name Lefortovo partially spreads on its territory.

Let's walk a little along the streets of the former German Settlement and see what's interesting here...

The main house of the Karabanov estate in the 5th century.

The estate was built according to the design of M. F. Kazakov. The main house of the estate was built no later than the 1770s. At the end of the 18th century. the estate belonged to foreman F.L. Karabanov, and since 1799. to his son, P.F. Karabanov, a collector of domestic antiquities.

Along Baumanskaya Street one comes acrosshistorical buildings of the 18th-19th centuries

Lefortovo police station. Starokirochny lane 13
In the middle of the 18th century. The plot on which this building stands was owned by Lieutenant General Martynov, and in the 18th-early 19th centuries by General A.M. Nesterov

In 1832 this site was acquired by the treasury, and before the establishment of Soviet power, the Lefortovo private house was located here, in which police barracks, a fire department and an office were located. A wooden tower was built over the house, dismantled during Soviet times

Residential building of the 18th-19th centuries. The painter Franz Hilferding, who came to Russia at the end of the 18th century, lived in this house. from Vienna and painted scenery for theatrical productions in St. Petersburg and Moscow

Lefortovo Palace XVII-XVIII centuries. Second Baumanskaya street, 3
The palace was built in 1697-1699. by the architect D. Aksamitov and upon completion of construction it was presented by Peter I to General Lefort. The layout of the palace speaks of the new principles of Russian architecture: the plan is symmetrical in composition, at the corners and in the center there are ledges where the halls of the palace were located. In the central hall there was a huge tiled stove; portraits, then called “parsuns,” hung on the walls. Here Peter I held his famous feast-assemblies.


In 1706-1708. new owner of the palace A.D. Menshikov surrounds the front palace courtyard with a closed rectangle of buildings with a solemn, heavy-in-proportion entrance. On the courtyard side, these buildings had arcades, so typical of Italian courtyards. In the 19th century, the arcades were mostly laid out. The author of these corpuses is considered to be the Italian J.M. Fontana.

It was here that Peter I cut the boyar's beard


In 1729-30 The palace was the residence of the minor Emperor Peter II, whose death also occurred in this building.

Plan of Lefortovo Palace

Lefortovo Palace in the foreground in a 19th century photograph.

Slobodskaya Palace of Count A.P. Bestuzhev-Ryumin (MSTU named after N.E. Bauman) 1749 Second Baumanskaya street, 5
AfterA.P. Bestuzhev-Ryumin belongedA.A. Bezborodko, who presented it to Paul I in 1797. In 1797-1812. served as the Moscow residence of the emperors. It burned down in 1812 and was rebuilt in 1826 for the workshops of the Imperial Educational Home for orphan boys.

The building was given a modern look in the late Moscow Empire style by the architect D.I. Gilardi. The central part is decorated by sculptor I.P. Vitali created a multi-figure composition “Minerva”, symbolizing the achievements of science and the practical skills of a craftsman

Photo from the early 1930s.

Detail of the fence of the Slobodsky Palace with a mysterious inscription

Dormitory for disadvantaged students of the Imperial Technical School, early 20th century. Brigadirsky lane, 14
Built in 1903 according to the design of the architect L.N. Kekushev with funds raised by V.A. Morozova as chairman of the Society for the Benefit of Needy Students of the Imperial Moscow Technical School

Photo from the beginning of the 20th century.

And this is a detail of a fence in the form of the fascia of the Senate House or the so-called Phanagorian Barracks, 18th century.

This place once looked like this

Brigadirsky lane, 11

Baumanskaya st., 70

St. Radio, 14

View towards house 14. On the right in the picture is a snowmobile developed at TsAGI under the leadership of A.N. Tupolev

At the end of the 18th century. A stone greenhouse was erected, as well as a complex of one-story buildings (a house and a theater) in the style of early classicism. After the founding of the Elizabethan Institute, a park building and a church were built (second half of the 19th century); at the turn of the XIX-XX centuries. the main house was partially rebuilt in simplified neoclassical forms. After 1917 The Elizabethan Institute was abolished, and since 1931. The building is occupied by the Moscow Regional Pedagogical University.

Elizabethan Institute of Noble Maidens, photo from the beginning of the 20th century.

Mechanical plant building A.K. Dangauer and V.V. Kaiser, 1889, st. Radio, 13

Aerodynamic tower on the building of the experimental department of TsAGI

City estate of the 19th century. St. Radio, 11

The estate complex was rebuilt by architect P.A. Drittenpreis in 1885-1896.

Church of the Ascension on the Pea Field, 18th century, st. Radio, 2s1. Architect M.F. Kazakov.The pea field has been known since 1718. Here in the 17th century. lived a foreigner Davyd Baherat. In 1718 there was a country courtyard of Chancellor G.I. Golovkin, who in 1731 asked permission to build, and in September 1733. consecrated the stone Church of the Ascension at his home. In 1741 all Golovkin's estates were confiscated, and around 1742. His courtyard passed to Count A.G. Razumovsky.

In 1773 The church changed from a house church to a parish church. The current stone one was built with the diligence of priest Peter Andreev with the special assistance of parishioner Nikolai Nikitich Demidov and other parishioners. The laying took place on May 25, 1788, consecration on May 2, 1793. The temple is a rare monument of early classicism architecture. The church was renovated in 1872.

Church of the Ascension on the Pea Field, photo from the late 19th century.

At the beginning of the 20th century. There was a parochial school at the church.After its closure in 1935, it served as a dormitory. In 1980 The building was occupied by the printing house of the Upakovka production association of the Ministry of Light Industry.In the 1960s The church was externally restored, and restored again in 1990.In 1990, according to a letter from Patriarch Alexy II dated August 31, the executive committee of the Moscow City Council transferred the temple to the Orthodox Church. Worship services resumed in 1993.

Estate of the Struisky-Belavins-Varentsovs, XVIII-XIX centuries, Tokmakov lane, 21/2-23
The first known owner of the area in which this estate stands was a memorable one in the history of Russian culture in the 18th century. publisher and poet Nikolai Struisky. In 1771, the estate passed to Second Major P.B. Belavin, who set up a silk factory on the territory of the estate, in its eastern half.

N. Struisky

It was first established in 1743. Moscow merchant Mikhail Savin, from whose son Belavin acquired it. The factory had 22 mills, employing 35 men and 23 women; the factory in 1775 produced fabrics worth 16,620 rubles. Perhaps it was here, at the Belavino factory, that his serf Fyodor Guchkov began working as a boy, who later started his own business and became one of the most famous Moscow textile manufacturers.

The factory also operates under the following owners - the merchants Chetverikovs, but at the end of the 19th century. The factory buildings are being demolished and a garden is being planted in their place. In 1890, the estate was sold to entrepreneur Nikolai Aleksandrovich Varentsov, a cotton and wool trader and head of the board of a manufactory in Kineshma.

After the revolution, communal apartments were set up here, and later various Soviet offices were located here. Since 1995 The Society of Merchants and Industrialists of Russia settled in the estate. And in 2001 A complete reconstruction began - in fact, an ordinary concrete copy of the estate was created... At the same time, the color of the main house also changed - from yellow it became blue.

Church of the Second Community of Old Believers-Pomorians of Marriage Consent in the Name of the Resurrection of Christ and the Intercession of the Mother of God, 1907-1908, architect I.E. Bondarenko.
Rich Old Believers spared no expense on the construction and decoration of churches, which began to be built after the lifting of the ban imposed in 1856. I.V. Morozov told the architect: “Tell me what you need, everything will be done... No estimate is needed, as much as you need, that’s what it will cost, just so it’s good!” In Tokmakov Lane, construction began on May 1, 1907, and in the fall the building was already standing, ready for finishing work, which continued throughout the winter and spring of the next year. The consecration in the name of the Resurrection of Christ and the Intercession of the Virgin Mary took place on June 8, 1908. The cost of construction and finishing was about 150 thousand rubles.

Photo 1909

Everything in the temple was made according to the design of I. E. Bondarenko: the iconostasis of dark bog oak, and bronze utensils, and wrought iron decorations, and majolica, made in the Mamontov pottery workshop "Abramtsevo" in Butyrki. It looks like restoration work is currently underway.

Wooden residential building by A. V. Krupennikov, 1912-1913, architect V. A. Rudanovsky, Denisovsky lane, 24

Mansion 1903, architect L.F. Dauksh, Denisovsky lane, 30с1

Mansion of the early 19th century, Denisovsky lane. 23
At the heart of this building are chambers of the 12th-18th centuries, which completely preserved the vault system in the basement floor. In 1777 its owner was I.I. Butasov. It is possible that by 1817 it was built on a much older foundation by Second Lieutenant S.G. Savin

And this is the very first building of the architect F.O. Shekhtel. Baumanskaya st. no. 58
In 1878 (according to other sources, in 1884) he fulfilled the order of the textile manufacturer Shchapov, building for him a residential building on the corner of the modern German Baumanskaya) and Denisovsky Lane.

This is how the walk turned out. I hope I didn't bore you too much. Thank you for walking with me

Overseas guests

The first German settlement appeared in Moscow at the end of the 16th century. Residents of the Russian State called Germans not only immigrants from Germany, but also all foreigners in general. They were supposedly mute because they did not know the Russian language. Vasily III began inviting foreigners to settle in the capital. He gave the overseas guests the Nalivka settlement between Polyanka and Yakimanka. That settlement did not last long - in 1571 it was burned by the troops of Devlet Giray.

Map of the German settlement

Expulsion from Cucuy

The Russians complained that the Germans were getting them drunk and engaging in usury.

After the Livonian War, Ivan IV brought many captured foreigners to the capital. They were given a place to settle at the mouth of the Yauza. Muscovites nicknamed the settlement Kukuy - according to one version, after the name of the stream that flowed there. Another version says that the Germans, surprised by what was happening on the streets, said to each other: “Kucken Sie!”, which means “Look!” Foreigners had many privileges: they could practice their crafts, “smoke” wine and practice their religion. Soon the Russians began to complain to the tsar that the Germans were getting them drunk and engaging in usury. The Grozny settlement had to be destroyed, and the foreigners themselves, as the French traveler Margeret wrote in his notes, were “expelled naked in the winter, as their mother gave birth.”

Little Europe

In the same place, the German settlement was revived only in the middle of the 17th century. By royal decree, non-Orthodox foreigners were ordered to move to the Yauza. The Germans made themselves at home - they built a whole small town with straight, clean streets, neat wooden houses and gardens. They also had their own churches: two Lutheran, Reformed and Catholic. The Czech traveler Tarner wrote: “they maintained... order on the example of German cities in the construction and multiplication of houses, which they built beautifully and prudently.” The settlement was mainly inhabited by officers and military specialists, whom Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich invited to work. There were also many merchants, pharmacists and doctors. Moscow eagerly received masters from Germany, Holland, England, Denmark, Sweden and other European countries.

Imperial revelries

Peter I seriously considered marrying Anna Mons

The German settlement was especially loved by the future Emperor Peter I. Kukui became for him a small Europe, which he had yet to truly get acquainted with during the Great Embassy. In Russian society, women still had far fewer rights than men and could not be present in male society. In the German settlement, women easily participated in balls and revelries on an equal basis with men. In Kukui, Peter forgot conventions, sported “German” dresses, danced “German” dances and held noisy parties.

First love of Peter I

It was in Kukui that Peter began his first big affair with the German jeweler's foreman Anna Mons. She remained the king's favorite until 1704. In the settlement she was nicknamed “the Kukui queen.” Peter generously gifted Mons, assigned her mother an annual boarding school and granted Dudinskaya volost as a fiefdom. For the sake of a German woman, the emperor even exiled his wife Evdokia to a monastery and was already seriously thinking about marrying Mons. But in her numerous letters over a little over ten years, not a word about love appeared. Peter left his mistress with great regret.

Friendship with Lefort and Gordon

In Kukui, the future emperor found not only love, but also friends. It was in a German settlement that he met the Swiss Franz Lefort and the Scot Patrick Gordon. They had a huge influence on Peter and were his comrades-in-arms in carrying out numerous reforms. Lefort was cheerful and energetic, easily coming up with new entertainment. It was Lefort, with his refined manners, who taught Peter how to communicate with ladies and introduced him to Anna Mons. He also gave the prince the idea of ​​going to Europe to study science and attract foreign specialists to Russia. Gordon was a strict Catholic and a family man. It was the Scottish officer who became the future emperor's adviser on military matters.

Lefort advised Peter to go to Europe to study science

By the beginning of the 18th century, the German settlement had lost its autonomy. Kukuy gradually began to be built up with palaces of aristocrats. During the war with Napoleon, the settlement was almost completely burned down. After that, it was settled by merchants and townspeople. Part of the territory of the former German settlement was named Lefortovo. Kukuy remained in the memory of the townspeople only thanks to Nemetskaya Street, which has now been renamed Baumanskaya.

According to the laws of the genre, a picture is used to distract attention.

On June 17, I miraculously found myself on a wonderful journey in time and space through the German Settlement with the incomparable Rustam Rakhmatullin. Yes, I couldn’t help but get there, because for me these places are dear, close, traveled far and wide during my student years in Baumansky. I, of course, knew a brief summary of the history of the Slobodsky Palace, and even more so the murders in those places of Bauman, and, perhaps, this was where my knowledge of the German Sloboda ended, despite the long, comparable to eternity, years of study that flew by in one day .
Therefore, the familiar surroundings concealed many wonderful discoveries that I didn’t even suspect about. And it was all the more interesting to look at familiar places through someone else’s, independent eyes of a surprised, ungainly truant-tourist. Although it was not easy for me, the state was somewhat lyrical, touching and emotional. I haven’t been to those parts for a long time, a lot has changed, not for the better... In short, the negligence and unpretentious simplicity of the 90s and the turn of the millennium, which cannot be described in words, but which is easily recognizable in the photographs of that time, has disappeared. The pompous gloss and chic of modernity has replaced it. It seems clean and neat, but there is some kind of redundancy in the whole appearance of the streets.
The weather on this short June evening was not June at all, windy, cool, invigorating, all the truants were completely frozen, but held firm for more than 3 hours of festivities. I took photos on my phone, because I didn’t have a camera with me, so the quality was not great. And the dank cloudy weather added more gray rather than colour. But nothing can spoil a walk with Rustam! Moreover, it is somewhat cloudy.
By the way, walks with Rakhmatullin are very difficult to describe; such a flow of information has not yet been digested. I will try to focus on some little-known interesting mysterious facts, which Rustam especially paid attention to. I will skip generally known facts. The Internet is always welcome. I apologize for the inaccuracies, because in the mosaic of consciousness, everything is confused in the head.

1. So, the now idle Baumanskaya metro station, right next to the metro station on Baumanskaya Street, the former main street of Nemetskaya Sloboda, stands Karabanov's House- the first point of our attention.

Actually, it is impossible to pass by this address, based on the state of preservation, the architecture from Cossack albums and the history of the owners, although it has nothing to do with the German Settlement and even its property was not included in the settlement. The settlement itself was severely destroyed during the Brezhnev era, in the 70s, the land surveys were largely lost, not to mention the buildings. The first owners of the estate, the Karabanovs, are known for their collections of antiquities, which were transferred to the state, and after the fire of 1812 the house was rebuilt by the family of the Ural breeder Ivan Yakovlev-Sobakin.

2. The facade is decorated with elegant stucco bas-reliefs with a plot composition; the facade on the sides of the risalit is also decorated with stucco bas-reliefs and a plant frieze

3. Passage to the courtyard through an arch connecting the main house with the preserved outbuilding

4. The façade facing the courtyard is no less remarkable; remnants of the Moscow courtyard charm can still be perceived by connoisseurs. Baumanskaya Street is noisy, but the courtyard is almost quiet, the courtyard is rolled into asphalt, and the fence is covered with ivy, which is very touching.

5. Rustam says that presumably the all-Moscow famous Kukuy stream, in whose honor the settlement was named, and perhaps vice versa - a stream in honor of the settlement.

6. Where, in fact, did the Kukuya river bed lie? Yes, it was under this house in the depths of the estate yard! The asphalt is still moving in waves!

7. Then a counter question - where was Pushkin born?? This is the inertia of history... And how can we then answer all the burning questions of our time??? When workers were attaching this sign to school No. 353 built in the 1930s

8. It was already known that a certain Skvortsov bought the house six months after the Poet’s birth. And historiosophy recognized that Pushkin was born in Skvortsov’s house. But once said, done, the sign was fixed, and it still hangs.

8. And then the monument was erected in the 60s. Pushkin in childhood

9. There is a version by S.K. Romanyuk that Pushkin was born nearby, on the corner of Malaya Pochtovaya and Gospitalny lane, which Rustam tells us about

Pushkin himself claimed that he was born on Molchanovka, some researchers still confirm this version, because the question is not an idle one - how patriotic is it to be born in the German settlement?!

10. Now the place that intrigued me the most is German market! Just awesome!!! And it’s amazing that for many hundreds, folded into thousands, days I walked along this triangular area (typically Moscow!) and did not know that this was the German market, where serious passions were probably in full swing, where Anna Mons herself bought products for the kitchen, and Lefort was asking the price of apples and pears from local orchards. It makes you think that it’s like your years of study have flown by in vain...

By the way, the building on the spit is a remake; during my years of study there was still a genuine building of this triangle, from the end of the 19th century, but I was young, green and stupid, all these details did not interest me, although... come on! I remember that the building was authentic, different...

11. View from the same point towards Baumanskaya Street

12. View from the same point towards Baumanskaya metro station - a beaten path by millions of students to and from the metro

13. Ladozhskaya street from the romantic word Ladoga, the tavern "Ladoga", here in the settlement, and located

14. Turned to 2 Baumanskaya. Another typical cute Moscow house - Matveev estate, later known as the house of the architect Ivan Kuznetsov, the house of his wife's mother, where he lived from 1903. The condition of the building is uncertain, the house is listed in the Red Book, i.e. requires attention and rescue. As far as I remember, it was always abandoned and empty. And there’s a suite of rooms there! Cancer in all good houses of Moscow.

15. Looked into No messengers R. Apparently, some envoy-ambassador lived here. Which one - and most likely Prussian. Apparently, one of the first ambassadors, when temporary visiting embassies began to be replaced by permanent, like electric current, ambassadors.

16. And this candle factory. Not simple, but diocesan! And with it there is a school for the children of workers and a temple, built in 1897 with an abundance of architectural excesses, as usual for that prosperous time.

17, And I liked this house opposite - a typical 19th century building. For today's Moscow, a wooden top intact and intact is already a rarity, but here there are a lot of them - they still stand near the metro station on Baumansokaya.

18. We return the direction to 2 Baumanskaya. Mortuary of Lefortovo fire and police station. Since tsarist times, all unidentified corpses (those who died on the street without documents, terrorist attacks, etc.) were brought here. The building is from the early 19th century.

Every day thousands of students pass by this institution with complete indifference, and it cannot be otherwise. Previously, every day funeral processions dragged on one after another.

19. And now they’ve stuck a Tatneft gas station there, you idiots, right in the center of a typical Moscow triangle. Here you can see it partially; otherwise I didn’t take a good photo

20. And this the building of the fire and police station itself, only the truck ruined everything

I can’t resist posting a photo with the tower, who would have thought that there used to be a tower there?!! Only knowledgeable local historians, of course, could think about it.

21. Now it’s so sad, something is missing, although... this is one of the few and unique buildings in Moscow that survived the fire of 1812. The estate of General Martynov, then A.M. Nesterov, the main house was built in the 1770s .G. And only since 1832 Lefortovo police station.

22. There used to be a beer stall “on the hill” that was dear to the hearts of all students. It's still there in the 2011 photo.

23. But nothing lasts forever under the sun, first the beer disappeared, and then the stall. Now it's such a sad wasteland. This is a remark to the question that many things are changing not for the better.

24. Linden blossoms

Rustam says that once upon a time there stood the Nashe (!) Moscow (!) Marly Palace. Menshikov tried! In general, we are looking at the late development of the settlement, when it was inhabited by Russian aborigines, and not even the land surveying remains of the original German one. It is known, for example, that after Peter it became fashionable to build along the Yauza River, where palaces were erected (and the Germans did not settle on the slope to the Yauza along the banks, of course). It’s clear, according to the concept, the prestigious sites went to the most advanced and cunning. For example,

25. Here's a nice little thing discovered =) Thanks to Archnadzor and sympathizers

26. House-gromina Buturlin a, 18th century, changed many owners until D.P. settled there. Buturin, who was officially listed as the director of the Hermitage, but did not appear there, was engaged in reading, adding to the library and breeding rare plants in his house in the German settlement - he was passionate about gardening.

27. The third floor was added later, the building has lush decoration

28. A touching outbuilding nearby disappears

How many times have I walked past, I had no idea that this pearl was hiding in the courtyards. In the surrounding area there are very remarkable residential towns, remarkable solely for their architecture. A few photos

33. Through the communal jungle we got to Lefortovo Palace and built in the 1690s, the architect Aksomitov is neither more nor less, but an artist of stone works and, judging by his surname, an incorrigible romantic. That's what he was like

34. And we see something similar, later

In general, the palace was built from the treasury - at the expense of taxpayers; in fact, Peter built it for himself while he whiled away his days at the great embassy. As soon as they returned, Lefort lived in the palace for a month and died. Peter held a very drunken cathedral here, smoked, smoked, and Anna Mons, meanwhile, performed the first domestic courtly act.

35. Then the palace passed to Menshikov, who rebuilt it - surrounded the front palace courtyard with a closed rectangle of buildings with a solemn entrance, heavy in proportions. The author of these corpuses is considered to be the Italian J.M. Fontana.

36. Here are the heavy proportions of the arch through which the bride of Peter II passed

According to legend, the bride and the carriage were quite heavy, and once on the wedding day the crown fell from the carriage, catching on the arch. Historians are still arguing about what kind of arch it was: the front arch or the one in the courtyard.

Peter II actually moved to Moscow and settled in the Lefortovo Palace. As Rustam metaphysically noted, “the capital was retreating to Peter’s Yauza - the first place of escape, i.e. the capital was advancing in its own wake.” But this did not last long, the young Second Peter died suddenly in the Lefortovo Palace on his wedding day. Tragic place. It was here that they decided that Anna Ioannovna would ascend the throne; in fact, the Romanovs in the male line were stopped in this house in 1730.
In 1771, Catherine organized a plague quarantine here, after which everyone was afraid to stay in the palace.
Under Paul, the palace was rebuilt by the Cossacks for his daughters.
But no one else lived in the palace for a long time.
Later, Alexander I transferred it to the military department. And the military archive is still there.

37. The main goal is Baumansky, aka Slobodskaya Palace, no less rich architecture and history, but completely post-German

38. Photos failed. Either with a fountain, without a palace

39. Either without a fountain and with a palace

40. Architecture is better visible in spring

The history of the palace begins in 1749, when Bestuzhev-Ryumin, Evstigneev from Midshipmen, began building his Moscow house in the German settlement in the Baroque style. But he fell into disgrace and the unfinished palace went to the treasury. It consisted of several one-story buildings connected by colonnades and other architectural elements. A garden with grottoes, fountains, peacocks and other pleasures of the Baroque years overlooked the Yauza. Catherine gave the palace to her favorite Orlov, but he did not live there, the building began to collapse, then Catherine granted it to Bezborodko. Under the new owner, Quarenghi architects, under the supervision of Kazakov, solved the non-trivial architectural task of reinterpreting baroque into classicism and coped with it perfectly. The buildings were connected into one long body.
Pavel purchased the palace from Bezborodko. It was in the Slobodsky Palace in 1812 that the imperial message to the capital was read out. The patriotic nobility and merchants, right in the halls of the palace, began collecting money for the formation of the Moscow people's militia, which is described by Tolstoy in War and Peace.
In 1826, the Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna “deigned to command the establishment of large workshops of various crafts” for orphan boys of the Orphanage. Since then there has been a Higher Technical School.

41. And the palace was rebuilt to meet new needs by the architect Gilardi and an antique sculptural composition appeared above the facade. It is in the authorship of Gilardi that we see the palace to this day.

Rustam says that the inside behind the main facade is very beautiful. I confirm. The interiors of the columned hall, in which the selection committee now meets, have been preserved.

The windows look out onto a beautiful semi-rotunda, in the third light of which was the altar of the house school church. All this beauty faced the second façade into the Yauza garden, but now into a very cozy courtyard formed by the circular building of the Stalinist years.

42. In 1905, in the German settlement, Nikolai Ernestovich Bauman was brutally killed in broad daylight for calling for an assault on Butyrka for the release of political prisoners. His wounded man was taken to the school because... the staff were progressive and compassionate. This is where the mourning profession of many thousands originated. Having come to power, the Bolsheviks did not forget about Bauman and he was resurrected in the name of the school, because through the name he is still alive.

43. Now a few photos that are important to me. It’s a pity that the historical fence was dismantled and replaced with concrete blocks. I hope they will at least return the historical grid.

44. This is the lattice

45. Legendary passage with lions

46. ​​Here's why

47. Former student dormitory of the late 19th century, now clinic No. 120, where students are also assigned

48. Laboratories of the MT building (Mechanical engineering technologies)

And there was this amazing building that was rebuilt in a completely ordinary way

49. Finally we leave the palace, move on, I was amazed by the updated Chermet Institute, upgraded to the Investigative Committee. This is what the life-giving power of money does. Previously, this high-rise building stood empty and of no use to anyone, but now it sparkles with glass for several miles.

50. Restored Grabar workshops on Radio Street

We make a short stop here. The border of the German Settlement ran along the Yauza and ended at the Palace Stone Bridge, which became a stone bridge in the 18th century. Approximately on the site of Tupolev’s sharashka of the 30s there was Lefort’s house. Now all this is very difficult to imagine...

51. The strangest object on this route, perhaps, is Tupolev Plaza architect Barkhin, working in a classicist vein. This work won the 2005 Golden Ratio competition. In form and content it is eclectic neo-classicism. Rustam likes, in his opinion, continuity in eclecticism. The German settlement on the outskirts of Moscow is eclectic in itself, not to mention its architecture.

52. I’m too conservative to appreciate it. I look at the business center with sadness; it would be better if they built airplanes.

53. This is another facade, again a harmonious combination of glass and porticoes,

54. for looking at and solving an architectural crossword puzzle

55. Next we head towards TsAGI buildings. Here was Zhukovsky’s first laboratory, formerly a branch of the Moscow Higher Technical School, which grew up in TsAGI, occupying an entire block where the first wind tunnel in Moscow was located. The first pilots lived here. Now there are two organizations: one building from TsAGI (the rest in Zhukovsky) and VIAM. As well as the infamous Grabar workshops, they were also located in the former TsAGI building.

56. We go into a very cozy courtyard, green, quiet, where there is a monument to Zhukovsky, the father of Russian aviation.

57. There is a TsAGI museum here, I have heard more than once that it is very interesting.

58. Now I’m also hesitant about genuine carpentry

But the subject of our interests is the German Settlement. The current TsAGI museum was the center of the pre-Petrine German settlement and somewhere here there was a Protestant St. Michael's Church, where, for example, Prince Hans of Denmark, who did not become the husband of Ksenia Godunova, was buried. Godunov here, in the settlement, followed the coffin. They invited mainly Protestant foreigners, because they were military, for military needs in the fight against Catholic Poland. Later, when the geopolitical situation changed, Catholics began to come.

59. Further, the current regional pedagogical institute named after Krupskaya, known as estate of Nikita Akinfievich Demidov A. Previously, this was an estate, the owner of which at the beginning of the 18th century was Prince F. Yu. Romodanovsky, and then Count M. G. Golovkin.

From Golovkin it passed to the Demidovs, this is the branch of the Demidovs, to whom there is a monument to their son Nikolai in Florence, which was received by Nizhny Tagil and its factories.
The building of the main building of the current university, built in 1825, originally belonged to the Elizabethan School (later the Institute), which was intended to educate the daughters of nobles, military officials, clergy, and merchants. The institute was named after Empress Elizaveta Alekseevna.

60. On the contrary, preserved an outbuilding that was located across the road, oddly enough. Opposite was Demidov Lane, where the architect Kazakov lived, by the way.

61. Street perspective Temple of the Ascension on the Pea Field, 1788-1793, architect M.F. Kazakov. Initially, the church was a personal church for the Razumovskys, then it began to provide care for the Orthodox residents of the settlement.

62. We return to Baumanskaya (German) streets. Next point - Lestokov house better known as Phanagorian Barracks. But the building received this name only in 1911 after the stationed regiment. And the property has a rich history.
But these days, on short June evenings at 10 p.m., it’s already impossible to take a photo of anything.

Built in 1753-1757 on the site of the house of the court physician Lestocq, which burned down in a fire in 1748, according to the design of the architect D.V. Ukhtomsky. Subsequently rebuilt in a classic manner. The fire of 1812 did not spare the mansion, and in 1827 the imperial family invited Osip Ivanovich Bove to restore it. The architect connected the side wings with the main building, decorating the façade in a strict and solemn Empire style.
The “Leshtokov House” in the German settlement also passed into the treasury, and after a fire they began to rebuild it in 1753 to house the Senate there.
Looked something like this

After 1885, the building was converted into barracks. Since 1932, the Military Chemical Academy (later the Military Academy of Chemical Defense) was located here, which moved to Kostroma in 2006.
When I was studying, in the building just opposite Baumansky (the Fanagori barracks have a second façade on 2 Baumanskaya) cadets were constantly looming in the windows, which was very memorable. The Academy was still there. Now, apparently, it is desolate.

Before turning, walking around the Shchapovsky quarter, Rustam spoke about the house Vorontsov, which is next to the collapsed market. He disappeared back in the 19th century. There was a suburban house here, it looked something like this, the architect was either Lvov or Quarenghi. I am simply not able to reproduce the history of the Vorontsov family as told by Rustam =)

63. Last push - Shchapovsky quarter- this is a block along Nemetskaya Street between Aptekarsky and the next - Denisovsky - lanes. The mansion, located on the corner of Baumanskaya Street and Denisovsky Lane, according to some sources, was built in 1884, according to others, it was erected in 1878 by the architect A.S. Kaminsky, with the participation of his student - architect F.O. Shekhtel, was built for Pyotr Petrovich, who became the successor of the Shchapovs’ work.

64. This house is also notable for the fact that it was here that Bauman was mortally wounded during a demonstration. Legends and traditions still circulate around this death...

65. Penultimate point - Savin estate. It was already so dark that we couldn’t take a photo at all, and they kindly didn’t let us into the courtyard to look at the coat of arms.
Here is a photo from 1956

Romanyuk writes: “At the base of the house there are chambers of the 17th - 18th centuries, which completely preserved the system of vaults in the basement floor. In 1777, its owner was the “foreigner” I.I. Butasov. Its further history is unclear - it is possible that by 1817 it was . was built on a much older foundation by Second Lieutenant S.G. Savin (probably it is his coat of arms that is depicted in the tympanum of the pediment).

One way or another, this is the oldest surviving monument of the German settlement of the 17th century

66. A restored recent find that has received protected status - mansion 1867 the buildings, belonged to the famous bibliophile Pavel Vasilyevich Shchapov, the youngest of the sons of the merchant V.I. Shchapov.
The main architectural feature of the house immediately catches the eye: the windows of the second floor are turned into blind niches with bas-relief ornaments, in the center of which are antique heads in profile. There are plans of the house in the archives, from which it is clear that the rooms with blocked windows belonged to a book depository. During Soviet times, the window openings were opened and the stucco molding was lost.
Until 2005, the house was residential, then they decided to move it out.

67. View from the west side of the house.

68. On the side facade of Pavel’s house the monogram of the Shchapov merchants has been preserved.

69. And the last point - St. Nicholas Old Believer Church Belokrinitsky consent. Built in 1912 according to the design of the architect N.G. Martyanov.
The photo is not mine, it was already dark, and it’s not so easy to get there, the church is located in the courtyard

That's all. Tired and happy we return home.