Pelageya Aleksandrova-Ignatieva: Practical Foundations of Culinary Arts. The Basics of All the Basics The Practical Basics of Culinary Arts

The main book of her life, Pelageya Aleksandrov-Ignatieva, a famous culinary researcher, wrote in 1899. Her work was republished 11 times, until 1927. And since then - not once, for nearly a hundred years. Meanwhile, the value of this book - a detailed textbook, a collection of almost 500 recipes and a set of unique recommendations - can hardly be overestimated. It is given special value by the popular course on meat studies, written by the famous veterinarian and the author's husband, Mikhail Ignatiev, - a real "meat encyclopedia" from which the reader will learn literally everything about him. The book by Aleksandrova-Ignatieva is still capable of becoming indispensable in the kitchen of every person who is keen on gastronomy.

On our website you can download the book "Practical foundations of culinary art. A short popular course of meat science" Alexandrova-Ignatieva Pelageya Pavlovna, Ignatiev Mikhail free of charge and without registration in fb2, rtf, epub, pdf, txt format, read the book online or buy a book on the Internet -store.

Cooking Fiction: We have selected 10 must-read books for anyone seriously interested in gastronomy.

Gastronomic encyclopedia Larousse Gastronomique

Since this is an encyclopedia, you need to count on collecting (one-time or gradual, because the book is not cheap) of all 12 volumes. Published regularly since 1938, translated into 8 languages. The book contains over 4000 concepts and over 3000 recipes, as well as footnotes and comments. You can find literally everything here. From A to Z, all the main products, ingredients, classic recipes are described. It is a must for everyone who is even a little interested in gastronomy. Otherwise, where else can you peep the meaning of the strangest foods and rare culinary terms.

William Pokhlebkin, "Rules and Subtleties of the Kitchen"

And also all the other books of Pokhlebkin. William Vasilyevich is an amazing person, a Scandinavian historian. And this did not stop, and maybe it helped, write him one of the greatest books on Russian cooking. He studied gastronomic history and culinary anthropology. Having dug deep into the depths, in his books he illuminates the essence, the basics, all the most interesting. In "Rules and subtleties" V.V. Pokhlebkin talks about the origins - where did the concept of "first" and "second" dishes come from, what kind of bird is appropriate when it is appropriate to cook (and cooked before), the rules for using utensils, cooking in boiling water, how vegetables are prepared , millennial foundations of Russian cuisine, technological processes with historical footnotes - everything that the author has studied for years, slightly seasoned with recipes. The book is a must for those who love the stream of Russian cuisine and understand "why it is cooked like this" to the end.

Alexandrova-Ignatieva P. P., "Practical foundations of the culinary art"

A culinary rarity that has now become available (both in paper and online). For those in love with cooking and gastronomy, the advice is to study the book cover to cover, learn and practice, unswervingly following all the recipes and tips. This century-old guide for culinary schools and self-study (with an emphasis on the course of meat science, to be frank, as the author Ignatieva is a master of veterinary sciences) will allow you, after study, to wipe your nose to almost any chef or restaurateur, at least when discussing dishes. On a thousand pages old classic recipes are described, as well as detailed instructions on the choice of products, their seasonality, and the intricacies of handling them.

Jamie Oliver, "My Italy"

One of best books popular British chef, restaurateur and showman. It cannot be put above all other books by Jamie, but we recommend that you purchase (if you do not have the author's books yet) the first one. At first, Italian food- it's guaranteed to be tasty. Secondly, the book was written during Oliver's trip to Italy, accompanied by his sous-chef and friend Gennaro. The pages contain impeccable, authentic recipes from all regions, seasoned with brilliant illustrations. Thirdly, it has been tested, each recipe from the book is incredibly tasty, and most of it is also quite simple to prepare.

Nika Belotserkovskaya, "Recipes"

Modern must have in the kitchen of those who are fond of home cooking. All recipes in the book are accompanied by step-by-step photographs and comments so detailed and verified that absolutely everyone can cook any dish from any section. Dishes from "Recipes" are given even to those who have no culinary skills. The book is written very easy tongue... And the fact is that all the recipes are delicious. Everything.

Auguste Escoffier, Escoffier's Culinary Guide

Auguste Escoffier is said to have created French cuisine. Of course, he probably didn’t create it, but put it together, canonized and popularized it. He also introduced most of the terms that chefs around the world use to this day. One of the culinary Bibles.

Thomas Keller, Bouchon

Keller is one of the most influential chefs in the world and an avid fan of simple formats like gourmet cafes and bistros. He considers the creation of dishes from the simplest ingredients an art. And he knows how to do it. He opened his Bouchon restaurant next to a French laundry and put quiche, cottage cheese casserole, fried chicken and onion soup on the menu. They are served and cooked impeccably, simply, from the ingredients available and understood by everyone. This is the whole chef. Keller teaches attention to detail in even the most humble dish. If at least in your thoughts you admit the opening of your own establishment - read "Bushon" by all means.

Michelin Red Guide

Try at least one of the recommended restaurants on every trip. Study, plan your dinner. Michelin doesn't always mean expensive. For example, in Hong Kong, a one-star restaurant is an ordinary, even a little dirty street eatery, where food is incredibly tasty.

Stalik Khankishiev, "Kazan Mangal"

A very masculine book that doesn't require rush. Free up half a day. Flip through a book, pick a recipe, walk to the market or grocery store and start cooking. Thorough preparation of ingredients, processing, cutting technique. Stalik will tell you what to look for, where to rush to cook, and where to drink 50 g, slowly frying cracklings. This book can be called the soul of Khankishiev. Here are collected the best recipes that can be cooked over a fire - in a cauldron or on a wire rack, ideas for summer and winter, for all occasions.

Anthony Bourdain, About Food: Strictly Confidential

Bourdin is often criticized for lightness and populism. On the other hand, they are admired and praised. He is more than a chef, star, showman, author of books. “About Food: Strictly Confidential” will appeal to everyone - restaurant owners, ordinary consumers. The book shows practically_ any_restaurant from the inside: what processes are going on there, what people become pastry chefs, what their characters, habits, responsibilities, conflicts among the staff, in general, all the details of the backstage that you might not even suspect.

Publisher A

ST Moscow

Artistic design and layout by Andrey Bondarenko

The publishing house would like to thank Vera teavera Shcherbina and Denisa Fursova for their help in preparing the book,

CORPUS ® Publishing House

From the editorial board

This book exactly reproduces the lifetime edition of the 1909 book by Pelageya Pavlovna Alexandrova-Ignatieva.

The changes concern only the spelling of the text, which is brought to a modern form, as well as some measures and weights used by the author: pounds and spools are converted to grams, etc.

For ease of use, it should be borne in mind that 1 glass is approximately equal to 0.2 l, 1 plate - 1.5 glasses, i.e. 0.3 l, and 1 bottle - 3 glasses, i.e. 0.6 l.

From the author

In publishing this edition, Practical Basics of Culinary Arts, I think it is necessary to warn readers that I do not mean to offer them the reference cookbook, which we have many, but I hope, with the help of this guide, to make it easier for the hostesses to self-study in the culinary arts. , especially those of the housewives who, for whatever reason, cannot take a systematic course in culinary schools. For female students of culinary schools, both for intelligent housewives and simple semi-literate cooks, this book is convenient because it contains the entire course that is taken at school, and, therefore, the students can not waste time keeping notes, but use it on practical lessons... This is the main purpose of this edition. Needless to say, recently, in Russia, such a mass of cookbooks has appeared that you don't know which one to give preference to. All of them contain hundreds of recipes for various soups, stews and other dishes. Some contain recipes for a simple home table, while others are filled with recipes from French cuisine. Some of them - the best - can be useful as reference books for experienced housewives and skilled chefs, and publications such as "Almanac of Gastronomes" by Radetsky, Guf, Karem (in translation) can serve as a reference book for specialist chefs. But none of these books can serve as a guide for self-study of inexperienced, young housewives and novice cooks, since not a single book gives general, basic rules, as is customary in others. technical textbooks, and does not force the hostess or the cook to be critical and conscious about the matter and follow their actions in the kitchen step by step. This is what serves as the main obstacle to the fact that the dish does not work out, the provisions go bad and money is wasted unproductively.

Usually, all cookbooks indicate only the proportion (weight) of the products that make up each dish, and then follow summary the preparation itself or, as it is commonly called, the “recipe”.

Meanwhile, the most important thing is not indicated, namely, why, when preparing a famous dish, it is necessary to use one and not another method, and what can happen if the action is performed incorrectly, as well as how to act in cases when the dish is spoiled, i.e. That is, it does not have the proper taste or appearance, that is, how it can be corrected. Take, for example, Provencal sauce, which so often fails. In all cookbooks, the recipe for this sauce is almost the same, and everywhere it is said that you need to stir the sauce in one direction and pour in oil a little, but it doesn’t say why you shouldn’t mix it in different directions and why you shouldn’t pour oil in at once. The hostess or cook, who has never seen the preparation of this sauce in practice, begins to make it according to the specified recipe, mechanically turns the spatula in one direction, and sometimes turns it in the other, completely not attaching any importance to this, pours the oil quickly, then slowly, and into as a result, the sauce bounces off - it becomes liquid, and she does not know how to fix it; the provisions are spoiled and thrown away.

It's another matter if the hostess or cook knows why she should do this and not otherwise; she feels more confident in her work, and if she makes a mistake, she will be able to correct it without throwing away the material. In general, inept handling of food and their spoilage leads not only to damage to financial calculations (lunch is more expensive than it should be), but also affects the health of people who consume improperly prepared dishes.

In order to avoid all such mistakes and misunderstandings in the preparation of dishes, in this textbook, almost every dish contains “explanations and notes”. Therefore, we advise housewives and cooks to pay attention not only to the very method of preparing this dish, but also to all these explanations and notes that relate to it. Only by doing so can they benefit from this book and learn how to cook properly and deliciously. For those who do not want to be attentive to the matter or who think to treat this book as a reference index, it is better not to buy it at all, since it may not be useful to them.

In addition to the explanations and notes mentioned that relate to each individual dish, the most important and essential part of the book is made up of general articles or general basic rules for the preparation of a certain category of dishes, such as: broths, mashed soups, meat, poultry, fish, dough, sauces, etc. etc. These general articles not only make self-study easier, but they also significantly shorten the culinary arts course in schools. So, for example, if the hostess or cook learns well only the basic methods of cooking meat and will know characteristics of each method, that is, it will not mix boiling with simmering or frying with stewing, then she does not need to memorize hundreds of different roasts, since the methods of cooking them will remain the same, and the names only depend on those sauces and side dishes with which the roast is served - filet de beef a la jardiniere, a la financier, a la godard, etc., and so on.

The same can be said for mashed soups, sauces, dough, fish, poultry, etc.

In view of all this, I also suggest that the hostesses pay due attention to the general articles and do not undertake, for example, cooking cold fish, when they do not know the general rules for cleaning and cooking it. First, you should definitely read these rules, and then cook the fish according to the specified recipe. And this should be done with every dish.

Thanks to such a system, housewives, students at school, who then apply their knowledge at home, for their own household, take a course of three months; cooks for cooks, depending on their knowledge, with which they act - at least three months, even those who know how to cook well; farm managers of public institutions and private houses - at least 6 months, and teachers for newly opened culinary schools in other cities - at least a year. Meanwhile, as everyone knows, specialist chefs, ranging from the mediocre and decent to the famous in their field, study for several years; in the same way as any, although a little knowledgeable cook (who did not study at school) reaches necessary knowledge not earlier than 4–5 years old. This is explained by the fact that cooks and cooks acquire their knowledge only empirically, through practice and experience, without any systematic explanation from their teacher-cooks.

A boy who is trained in the kitchen to a cook, the latter does not teach in the system general rules cooking meat, fish, etc. and does not explain why it is necessary to make a well-known dish this way and not otherwise, but shows only the very technique of cooking, leaving the student himself to achieve the correct execution of the known techniques. If the student ruins the dish, then they do not explain to him why it did not work out for him, but on the contrary, strict measures are applied to obtain the desired result.

Due to such inept training, secrecy is very developed in cooks, that is, if one of them knows how to cook a famous dish especially tasty and better than others, then he will never share his secret with a friend. And this is very understandable, since the acquisition of this knowledge is achieved with great difficulty, and therefore everyone keeps it to himself.

Among many representatives of the culinary arts (even foreigners) with whom I had to work (teach) at school, I noticed this feature, and only one of them, my teacher F.A. Zeest, does not adhere to such beliefs and tries to make all his knowledge the property of society.

To show how different the serving of dishes in ordinary and palace kitchens is, in this book, in the cold snacks section, there are pictures from the dishes of the best chefs, artists of their craft: Zeest, Astafiev, Kozlov, etc., which they did for the annual exhibitions of the society of cooks ... You just need to look at these pictures to understand what the difference is. In addition to the fact that provisions for these dishes cost hundreds of rubles, they require diligent work for several days, and not one, but several people. In order to create such a dish as a boar's head or galantine from swans, you need to have the taste of an artist, the knowledge of a sculptor, and a talented imagination. Even many years of experience is not enough for this, but you need to be an artist in your field. Of course, no housewife or cook will be able to do a semblance of this, and they do not need it. For chefs, however, these exhibitions are instructive. They provoke competition in their work, and therefore lead the culinary arts to further development.

In addition to all that has been said, I will add that all these general basic rules are not my composition or discovery, but have always been the property of specialists in this matter, but my work consists only in the fact that all these phenomena are brought into a system, generalized and tested in practice in school for almost sixteen years in the presence of female students, so that more than 6,000 people can confirm that all the dishes in this book, subject to the well-known rules, should come out quite successful both in taste and in appearance.

In any case, the first initiative in this matter belongs to F. A. Zeest and L. K. Astafiev, who were my teachers and the first teachers of the culinary arts to educated housewives, not cooks. Without their assistance, neither I nor my students would have had the useful, precious information that is so necessary in life to maintain health, to save food material and money.

Teacher of the basics of culinary art in St. Petersburg

P. Alexandrova-Ignatieva, 1909

General kitchen rules

Broths

Basic rules for the preparation of broth and its varieties

It is generally accepted to call broth a pure, transparent broth obtained from meat and bones of slaughtered domestic animals, fish, poultry and game, as well as a broth from various root crops and vegetables. Meat broth serves as the basis for all meat soups, both filling and clear soups; just as fish broth is the basis of all fish, and vegetable and root vegetable broth is the basis of lean and vegetarian soups. You can not get a single soup, as well as lean, without broth. There are three types of broth, namely yellow, white and red. A clear broth served as an independent dish, without the addition of vegetables and flour side dishes, cannot be considered a nutritious food, since during cooking, only flavoring and extractive substances, and not nutrients, are transferred from meat to it. As a result, pure broth (without side dishes) should be consumed not as nutritious, but as an exclusively flavoring food that develops an appetite for further dishes.

Yellow broth serves as the basis of all transparent soups with side dishes, both Russian and French, such as: soup with dumplings, noodles, soup with meatballs, royal soup, julienne, etc., and so on. - and, moreover, it is served as an independent soup with various pies.

White the broth serves as the basis for all Russian filling soups (cabbage soup, borscht, pickle, stew, etc.), as well as all mashed soups.

Red the broth serves as the basis for glutinous French soups (oshpo, a la tartu, tartu, etc.) and fume (strong broth for dark sauces). In addition, broths are divided into strong and sticky ones. The first of them are cooked from those parts of the carcass that have a lot of muscle, which contains extractive substances, and are used for transparent soups, and the second are cooked from parts of the carcass that have a large number of tendons and bones, and are used for dressing soups.

For cooking meat broth the following products are required for one person:

Meat 200 g with bones

Veal shank? or everything? the amount of meat

Water 1 or 2 deep bowls (1 1/2 cup plate)

Korenev: turnips, carrots, celery, leeks, parsley, 50 g total

Luke? part of a common bulb

Salt approx 8 g

Bouquet, i.e. stalks and green parts of celery, leek, parsley, tied together

? Yellow meat broth prepared as follows:

COOKING METHOD Meat intended for broth cooking must be washed cold water but do not keep it in it, otherwise it will lose its taste; then, separating it from the bones and tendons, cut into pieces of about 200 g each, so that it will cook better and sooner and give a stronger fat; bones should be cut longitudinally to make them boil better, which, of course, gives the broth the best taste and strength.

Having prepared the meat in this way, take a thick pan (copper, cast iron or stone, fireproof), rinse it with cold water and, wiping dry so that the broth does not get an off-flavor, put the bones on the bottom of the dish first, and then pour the meat over them. everything with cold water in such an amount that the water completely covers the meat; otherwise, the parts outside the water will not be sufficiently digested. After that, put the pan on high heat and cover with a not very tight lid in order to allow steam to escape freely. When the broth begins to boil and foam appears on its surface, then you need to carefully remove it with a spoon until the broth is completely clear; then put the fried roots, onion and salt into it, and you should not stir the broth at this time, since this shakes up the remaining foam that has settled to the bottom. Roots and onions are pre-peeled, cut into large circles and fried in a tinted cut or oil (see explanations and notes)... Simultaneously with the roots, a bouquet is put into the broth, that is, the green parts of celery, leek and parsley, tied in one bunch. Having dipped the roots and salt into the broth, they immediately put the pan on low heat, on the edge of the stove, where they cook the rest of the time, that is, until the broth gets a good, strong meat taste, and the meat itself has boiled down well enough, what does it take at least 2? –3 hours of time, if the broth is cooked for a small number of persons (persons 3-5), and 5-6 hours, if the broth is cooked for a large number of persons.

After the specified time has elapsed, that is, when the broth is ready, all fat must be carefully removed from its surface and, without shaking with a spoon or raising the pan, strain carefully through a wet napkin stretched over the overturned stool, then boil one more time and then you can already serve.

EXPLANATIONS AND NOTES

? Meat varieties. In cases where the broth is intended for transparent, both Russian and French, soups with side dishes, as well as for mashed potatoes, or served as an independent soup with pies, it is cooked from meat of the 2nd grade "podbederka", since the meat goes only for boiling, and is not served in the soup for portions. The thigh contains all the substances necessary for the broth, as well as the marrow bones. If the broth is cooked for Russian transparent or filling soups, to which portions of boiled soup meat are served, such as noodles, stew, pickle, etc., then meat of the 1st grade is taken thigh, which also contains a marrow bone and a lot flavors and extractives necessary for the broth, and, in addition, the thigh gives good portions of boiled soup meat. This variety is also used in cases where you need to get a particularly strong beef broth, for example, for convalescent patients, and so on. If the broth is intended for filling, sour and fatty Russian soups, such as cabbage soup, borscht, etc. - then the meat of the 2nd grade is taken, the brisket, which, having spongy bones soaked in red brain, gives the broth a special pleasant sweetish taste, and the meat is suitable for serving in portions. Although veal shank is one of the non-essential ingredients for making broth, it is useful to put it, in size? the whole amount of meat, firstly, to give the broth a more delicate taste, and secondly, for stickiness. If the proportion of the veal shank is increased, then the broth will turn out to be cloudy and too sticky. From hot-steamed meat from a freshly killed animal, the broth always turns out to be very tasty, but it is always cloudy. Despite careful skimming, it always needs to be pulled back with proteins or meat. (see below - varieties of broth - consommé)... V winter time In terms of economy, many housewives take frozen meat for the broth, which is much cheaper than fresh meat. In these cases, you should always pour water over the meat until it thaws and gives off juice; it should be thawed already on the stove, in a saucepan, so that the juice, which contains valuable flavoring and nutrients, does not disappear. Keep in mind that broth made from frozen meat tastes worse than broth made from the same amount of fresh meat. If, for some reason, you have to take frozen meat for the soup, then it is always better to prepare some kind of filling soup on this day: cabbage soup, borscht, stew, than a transparent broth. The latter is only good when it has a strong meaty flavor.

Size and quantity the products from which the broth is cooked depends on the purpose that is given to it. In any case, it must be borne in mind that cooking too small a proportion of broth, for example, for one person, is extremely inconvenient, since the proportions of products would come out too small; therefore, it is better in such cases to cook the broth for two or three days and store it in the following way.

Dishes to boil the broth, there must be thick copper or cast iron, but certainly enameled inside, otherwise the foam and fat deposited on the edges of the cast iron or clay, unenamelled dishes will be absorbed into the walls and give the broth the smell of bacon; besides, unenamelled crockery, lacking an absolutely smooth surface, cannot be completely clean. It is also good to use refractory stone or porcelain dishes for cooking broth.

Cold water... In order for the broth to get a good strong taste, the meat should be poured with cold (not hot) water so that it gradually heats up with this water, giving its flavoring and extractive substances into it. If the meat is poured with hot water, then a protein crust forms on its surface, which prevents the release of juices, which gives the broth a weak taste. You should also not add cold or hot water to the broth during cooking, as this makes it taste weaker. It is necessary immediately, at the beginning of cooking, to add water for boiling. If a small proportion of broth is cooked, then 1 plate per person is added to the boil, and for a large amount of? or? plates. This is due to the fact that in a large number the liquid evaporates less than a small amount.

Brain bones placed on the bottom of the dish so that the water covers the meat on all sides.

Time, what is needed to cook the broth depends on the volume of the cooked piece of meat, as well as on the temperature of the water poured into the pan (ice water or room water). It is obvious, therefore, that a whole large piece needs to be boiled longer to obtain a broth than the same piece, but cut into small pieces (200 g each).

Hearth or slab, used for cooking broth require special attention. At the beginning of cooking, before removing the foam, the pan is placed on the middle of the stove, on a good fire, and after removing the foam, the pan is moved to the edge of the stove, over low heat, so that the broth boils with one edge; otherwise it will be cloudy, boil a lot and the meat will not boil well enough. When boiling slowly, more flavors are transferred from the meat into the broth than during a strong boil.

What happens is: you buy all the products of the highest quality, and you will approach business with all seriousness, and master something like that, fundamental (French Kasule, for example) does not work. You serve the fruit of several hours of attempts to the table with the thought that you will never again aim at such a complex recipe in your life.

But in fact, what is difficult: baked beans and baked duck thighs with pork sausages. But for some reason, the beans never boil, and the duck looks more like a sole ... And all because the basics of the basics are missing: the beans are not soaked overnight, and the poultry is not pre-fried in a hot pan (to preserve juiciness).

Command "With taste" prepared a set of key culinary rules... Just memorize or refresh your memory, and your rice will always come out crumbly, the biscuit will be fluffy, the pasta will be al dente and the meat will be juicy! To go to the material of interest, just click on the words highlighted in a different color.

Cooking rules

Rice
In the case of rice cooking, the question "how to cook?" directly depends on the question "what kind?", and that, in turn, follows from the question "for which dish?". After all, each has its own rules for heat treatment. So, for pilaf, we will never take wild rice, but steamed for sushi. No no.

To prepare a delicious and crumbly side dish for meat, fish or vegetable dishes, use our, which is suitable even for the cheapest varieties!

Paste
9 out of 10 Italians, having tried our way, will say that this is just a mass of dough. The one remaining will prefer to keep silent correctly.

When biting correctly, the tooth first easily overcomes the first soft layer, and then meets light resistance. Having figured out the dense center, we say: "Molto ben!", Because we have achieved the notorious "al dente".

And if 50% of success in making pasta is wheat (namely, its hard varieties) and the time the pasta will spend in boiling water, then the second 50% is. It is he who sets the taste direction of the dish and determines the accompanying ingredients.

Eggs
Everyone can fry with fried eggs. What about or? These recipes need to be mastered at least for the sake of a tick.

But even with the usual, not everything is so simple. Product bookmark, time, cooling method. Become a professional egg maker with "With taste"!

Meat
Well-done, but still juicy - a sign of culinary excellence. To prepare this dish, you will need premium meat, dexterity and ... a weighty cast-iron pan. In any case, this is recommended by many professionals, because the thick walls and bottom retain and evenly distribute heat better.

How, without overdrying it? We also did not forget to talk about this. Read - you will learn a lot of interesting things!

Bakery
Finally we got to dessert! - the basis of almost half of the cake recipes. Its preparation is similar to a shamanic ritual, but once you put everything on the shelves for yourself, you will be surprised at the ease with which this sweet cloud has turned out.

While the cake is baking, think about. Chocolate, custard, butter or maybe liqueur - which one will you choose?

What culinary tricks have you noted for yourself? Or maybe we missed something? Write in the comments!