Culinary recipes of William Pokhlebkin. Russian kitchen

Big encyclopedia of culinary art.

All recipes V.V. Pokhlebkin


You keep a unique book in your hands. It will become an indispensable adviser for everyone who wants to enrich their table with the most popular dishes, and also learn how to prepare not only at the usual and boring recipes, but with the knowledge of the cooking and even creatively.

The author of this wonderful book, William Vasilyevich Pokhlebkin, is no longer with us - he tragically died in March 2000. The murder of the writer has become a real shock for all Russia - after all, it is difficult to find a person who would not hear about wonderful culinary recipes of Pokhlebkin or did not use it wise advice. Now the gourmets left only his culinary books. This edition is an invaluable gift of the master fans of his talent, for all its theoretical and practical culinary works are collected in it.

Not everyone knows that V.V. Pokhlebkin by profession and education - an international historian, a specialist in foreign Policy countries of Central and Northern Europe. In 1949, he graduated from MGIMO USSR Foreign Ministry, in 1956-1961 he was the editor-in-chief of the international periodic edition "Scandinavian collection" (Tartu, Estonia), since 1962, collaborated with the magazine "Scandinavica" (London, Norwich), and in 1957-1967 he worked as a senior teacher of the MGIMO and the highest diplomatic school of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the USSR, historical and philological faculties of Moscow State University.

It would seem that history and cooking are incomplete things. However, a talented person is always talented in many ways, in any case, the tremendous experience of the Pokhivkin-International, the basis of its famous books about national cuisines in the world.

Over the past three decades V.V. Pokhlebkin remained unsurpassed a specialist in the field of theory, history and practice culinary art.

The book "Secrets of good cuisine", which opens our edition, was first published in 1979, in the Eureka series. This is a popular statement of the main issues of culinary practice, where the technology of all existing culinary processes is described by the language, their meaning and role in cooking are described for non-professional. She introduces the reader into the world of cooks, popularly talking about the meaning and features of the cook craft.

The book immediately became an unusual phenomenon, because readers were already disappointed in cookbooks, including a description of standard boring techniques and recipes. The "secrets of good cuisine" turned the beaten idea of \u200b\u200bcooking as an ordinary exclusively female lesson that does not require accurate knowledge of the theory. The book opens in front of any competent person to learn to work professionally, naturally with interested and conscientious attitude towards cooking work.

The book still enjoys unprecedented popularity, and not only in Russia. It is translated by national Languages republics where traditionally attached great importance to cooking delicious food and its quality. In 1982, she was published in Riga in Latvian, twice (1982 and 1987) published in Vilnius in Lithuanian, in 1990 - in Moldavian in Chisinau. And in just twenty years, this work has been thirteen editions.

"Entertaining cooking", continuing the "secrets of good cuisine", saw the light somewhat later, in 1983. This particular attention is paid to more prose, but an extremely important craft side of the cooking. The book tells about the types of foci (stoves, heating devices), on the effects of different types of fire for the taste of products, about kitchen utensils and tools. "Entertaining cooking" was also translated into Lithuanian, a total of six editions withstand.

The books "Spices, flavors and food dyes" and "all about spices and seasonings", as the author considered, will help to make our culinary world with bright and colorful, complete taste and aroma. Note that the work of V.V. Pokhlebkin about spices received international fame and was published five times in Leipzig in German.

The book "National Kitchens of Our Peoples" was as popular, which included the recipes of the national dishes of the peoples of Russia and the near abroad, indicating the initial, historically established technologies of their preparation. It gives a pretty complete picture of the culinary skill of nations, ethnic groups with their, pronounced national cooking.

This research Went for ten years both in the archives and in the field, in various regions. Probably, so it caused such serious interest among professional cooks in many foreign countries And it was highly appreciated as a practical cookbook. At the initiative of foreign colleagues, the book was translated into Finnish, English, German, Croatian, Portuguese and Hungarian.

The continuation is the book "On foreign kitchens", which includes the main recipes of Chinese, Scottish and Finnish cuisine. The author's ethnographic approach to the culinary heritage of Nations has helped to restore, restore the overall picture of culinary creativity, freeing it from unnecessary layers, and separate dishes - from restaurant distortions allowed by ignorance or ignorance.

No less interesting continuation of "my kitchen" is "My menu". Here V.V. Pokhlebkin is divided by its own cook secrets. The book consists of a commented list of those dishes of world cooking, which the author especially loved and prepared for himself personally only into special, solemn moments.

Completes the collection of the famous "Culinary Dictionary" of Pokhlebkin, written in the late 80s. This book is designed to answer all topical issues and a professional, and amateur, including the range of international (French, Latin, Greek, German, Chinese and other) terms, concepts, dishes and methods of their preparation that have developed for the entire Millennium history of world culinary practice. The dictionary creates a complete picture of global culinary art, where it is quite decent place Consider our usual Russians, Ukrainian, Tatar and other national dishes. "Dictionary" gives brief description All mentioned (and not mentioned) in the book terms and products and significantly facilitates the use of publication.

William Pokhlebkin became famous not only as a scientist and a specialist in international relations, but also as a culinary researcher. William Pokhlebkin became the most famous gastronomic historian in Russia. They were written not alone cookbook, according to his recipes, Russian cuisine still learn to cook. Woman's Day gathered the most famous dishes of William Pokhlebkin.

Soup rich (full): recipe

Ingredients:

750 g beef, 500-750 g or 1 half-liter can sauerkraut, 4-5 dry white mushrooms, 0.5 glasses of saline mushrooms, 1 carrot, 1 large potatoes, 1 turnpa, 2 bulbs, 1 root and celery greenery, 1 root and parsley greenery, 1 tbsp. A spoon of dill, 3 laurel sheets, 4-5 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp. l. Cream or shaken oil, 1 tbsp. l. cream, 100 g sour cream, 8 peas of black peppers, 1 tsp. Majorana or Dry Angelica (Zori).

Beef, together with a bulb and a half root (carrots, parsley, celery) put in cold water and cook 2 hours. 1-1.5 hours after the start of the cooking is salt, then the broth straightened, reject the root.

In the clay pot of putting a sauer cabbage, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water, add butter, close, put in moderately heated oven. When cabbage starts to be softer, remove it and combine with the leaky broth and beef.

Mushrooms and cut into four parts potatoes folded into an enameled saucepan, pour 2 glasses cold water And put on fire. When water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into straw and omit in the mushroom broth to joke. After the readiness of mushrooms and potatoes to connect with meat broth.

To the connected broths and cabbage add a finely chopped bulb, all other roots, chopped straw and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from the fire, fill it with dill and garlic and let it bloom for about 15 minutes, having flooding something warm. Before serving on the table, fill with large sliced \u200b\u200bmushrooms and sour cream right in plates.

Jelly: Recipe

Ingredients:

1 head (calf or pork), 4 legs (calfs or pork), 1 carrot, 1 parsley (root), 5 peas of the Yamaican (fragrant) pepper, 10 black pepper peas, 5 laurel leaves, 1-2 bulbs, 1 garlic head , per 1 kg of meat - 1 l of water.

Legs and heads fall, clean, cut into equal pieces, pour water and cook from 6 to 8 hours on very weak fire, without boiling so that the volume of water decreased by half. For 1-1.5 hours before the end of the cooking, add onions, carrots, parsley, for 20 minutes. - pepper, bay leaf; Some escape. Then remove the meat, separate from the bones, cut into small pieces, shifted into separate dishes, mix with finely chopped garlic and a small amount of ground black pepper. Broth with the remaining bones of slaughtering another half an hour (so that its volume does not exceed 1 liter), heal, strain and pour them boiled prepared meat. Candle for 3-4 hours.

Gelatin does not apply, since in young meat (veal, pigly, pork) contains a sufficient amount of adhesive substances.

Jelly serve with a horseradish, mustard, crumpled garlic with sour cream.

Roast: Recipe

Ingredients:

2-2.5 kg remedy beef (thick edge), 1 carrot, 2 bulbs, 1 parsley or celery, 6-8 grains of black pepper, 3-4 laurel sheets, 2 h. ginger, 0.5 cups sour cream, 1 tsp. Salts, 1-1.5 glasses of kvass.

Beef to wash, clean from films, bones, cut off with her fat, cut it with small pieces, put on a preheated pan or barbell, melt, rolling, fry the beef with a whole piece to be covered with a crust, sprinkling finely chopped carrots, onions, parsley And pushed spices, then put in the oven, water every 10 minutes. Little by kvass, all the time turning over. Fry approximately 1-1.5 hours in 5-7 minutes. Until the end of frying, collect all juice into a cup, add 0.25 cups of cold boiled water to it, put it in the refrigerator. When the juice cools, remove the layer of fat from the surface, heat heat, strain, add sour cream. Serve as sauce to hot. Finished beef to remove out of the oven, salt, give it a slightly cool (15 min.), Then cut across the fibers into pieces, pour hot meat juice and serve.

Roast is not served cold and do not heat up. The side dish can be fried potatoes, boiled or stewed carrots, repa, trouser, roasted or stew mushrooms.

Pike in sour cream: recipe

Ingredients:

1-1.5 kg Pike, 1-2 Art. l. Sunflower oil, 300-450 g sour cream, 1-2 h. Black ground pepper, 1 lemon (juice and zest), 1 pinch of nutmeg.

Fish with a specific smell (for example, pike, some types of sea fish) requires special methods of processing and cooking.

Pike clean, rub the pepper outside and inside, pour oil and put into a deep frying pan on the ceramic stand (can be saucer) and put into the oven for 7-10 minutes. So that the fish is shred. Then shifting into a closer dishes, pour sour cream, half covering it with a pike, close the lid and put into the oven for a weak fire by 45-60 minutes. Put ready fish on the dish, hire with lemon juice, and heat up to warm up on the stove to thickening, salt, twisted with grated nutmeg and zest and serve separately to the fish in a sauce or pour it fish.

Fried mushrooms: recipe

Ingredients:

4 glasses of purified mushrooms (different), 100-150 g of sunflower oil, 2 bulbs, 1 tbsp. l. dill, 2 tbsp. l. Parsley, 0.5 cups sour cream, 0.5 h. Black hammer pepper.

Clear mushrooms, rinse, cut into straw, put on a preheated dry frying pan, cover with a lid and fry on medium heat until the juice released with the mushrooms almost completely; Then salted, add a finely chopped onion, pour the oil, mix and continue to fry on a more moderate heat before the formation of a brownish flavor for about 20 minutes. After that, pepper, sprinkle a finely chopped greenery of dill and parsley, mix, plular 2-3 minutes., Add sour cream and bring it to a boil.

In the mushroom season, it is important to know how to cook the mushrooms.

Oatmeal Porridge: Recipe

Ingredients:

2 glasses of oat flakes "Hercules", 0.75 liters of water, 0.5 l of milk, 2 h. Salt, 3 tbsp. l. Butter.

Croce pour water and cook on low heat until water digestion and complete thickening, then add hot milk into two receptions and, continuing to stir, cook before thickening, putting it. Finished porridge to fill with oil.

Cabbage Pie: Recipe

Yeast puff pastry

Ingredients:

600 g of flour, 1.25-1.5 cup of milk (1.25 for sweet cake), 125 g of butter, 25-30 g of yeast, 1-2 yolks (2 yolks for sweet cake), 1.5 hours. l. Salt.

In the case of using this test for sweet pies, it is added: 1 tbsp. l. Sugar 1 tsp. Lemon zest, badyana, cinnamon or cardamom (depending on the filling: to nuts, Makova - Cardamon, to an apple - cinnamon, to Cherry - Badyan, to currarian, strawberry - zest).

Flour, milk, yeast, yolks, salt and 25 g of oil to knead the dough, thoroughly knead and give to climb during cool room temperature. It came up to mix the dough, roll in a layer with a thickness of about 1 cm, lubricate the oil with a thin layer, folded fourly, then put on 10 minutes. To cold. Then roll out and lubricate with oil, folding the layers and repeating this operation three times, after which it is possible to climb the test in a cold place. After that, not dinner, to cut the dough under the cake.

Cappucta Stuff

You can cook filling both fresh and stewed cabbage.

Fresh cabbage cut, salt, give to stand about 1 hour, slightly squeeze juice, add butter and finely cut steep eggs and immediately use the filling.

Fresh cabbage cut, put in a saucepan under the cover, grieving on a weak heat until it becomes soft, then add sunflower oil, strengthen the fire, fry the cabbage slightly so that it remains light, add bow, parsley green and black ground pepper, mix with Cool chopped eggs.

Buckwheat pancakes: recipe

Ingredients:

3.5 cups of buckwheat flour, 1.5 glass of wheat flour, 2.5 glasses of warm water, 2 glasses of boiling milk, 25 g of yeast, 25 g of butter, 2 eggs, 1 h. Sugar, 1 tsp. Salts, 0.5 glasses of melted oil.

In the water, dilute yeast, add all wheat flour and equal volume buckwheat, let go. Pick up the remaining buckwheat flour, again give to approach. Brew dough hot milk, cool, put sugar, salt, butter, let go and then oven.med gingerbread

Ingredients:

400 g of wheat flour, 100 g of rye flour, 2 yolks, 0.75-1 glass of milk or sources, 125 g sour cream, 500 g of honey, 1 tbsp. Spoon sugar-zhizhki, 1 tsp. Cinnamon, 2 Cardamom Caps, 4 Carnation Buton, 0.5 h. Badyan, 1 tsp. Lemon zest, 0.5 h. soda.

Honey welded in a saucepan on the weak heat of a hot, removing the foam, then brew a part of his rye flour and stirred with the rest of honey, cool to a little warm state and beat something.

Zhporto erase with yolks, add milk and knead the wheat flour on an egg-milk mixture, having stirred it and mixed with erased in powder with spices.

Connect the honey-rye mixture with the sour cream and the above mixture, thoroughly whipping them. Finished dough to put in a lubricated oil shape (or baking sheet) with a layer of 1-2 cm and bake on a small fire. Cut 4x6 cm rectangles ready for rectangles.

These gickers do not glan.

Cooking sugar-zhizhki. Make a thick sugar syrup and heat it on a moderate fire in a small thick-walled metal tableware, stirring all the time before yellowing, after which it is slightly reduced fire and continue to stir before purchasing a beige or light brown shade. At the same time, sugar should not be burned, the smell must be specifically caramel, not burned. This is achieved thorough, continuous stirring and fire regulation. The resulting light brown lollipop is used for tints and giving the "caramel" aroma products.

Russian cuisine has long been widely fame worldwide. This manifests itself as in direct penetration into international restaurant cuisine, original Russian food products (caviar, red fish, sour cream, buckwheat cereals, rye flour, etc.) or some of the most famous dishes of the Russian National Menu (jelly, soup, oars, pancakes, Pies, etc.), and in the indirect influence of Russian culinary art in the kitchen of other nations.

Assortment of Russian dishes at the turn of the XIX and XX centuries. It became so diverse, and its influence and popularity in Europe is so great that they started talking about it with the same respect, as well as the famous French cuisine.

Russian national cuisine has passed an extremely long path of development, noted by several major stages, each of which left an indelible mark.

Old Russian cuisine, developed from the IX-centuries. and reached the greatest heyday in the XV-XVI centuries, although the formation of it and covers a huge historical period, is characterized by common features, in many respects preserved and dynam.

At the beginning of this period, a Russian bread from sour (yeast) rye test appeared - this unknown king on our table, without him, and now the Russian menu is unthinkable, - and all other essential types of Russian bread and flour products have arisen: Skike, Baranki, juits, pyshki, pancakes, pancakes, pies, etc. These products were preparing exclusively on the basis of sour dough - so characteristic of Russian cuisine throughout its historical Development. Addiction to the acidic, the kvass was reflected in the creation of Russian real kiseli - oatmeal, wheat and rye, which appeared long before modern. Mostly berry kissels.

A great place in the menu occupied a variety of casishers and cereals, which were considered originally ritual, solemn food.

All this bread, flour food diversified by the bowl of all fish, mushrooms, forest berries, vegetables, milk and very rarely meat.

In addition, the appearance of classical Russian beverages - all sorts of honey, kvass, shot down.

Already in early period The development of Russian cuisine was marked by a sharp separation of the Russian table for lean (vegetable-fish-mushroom) and a rapid (milky-egg-meat), which had a huge impact on her further development Up until the end of the XIX century. Artificial creation of the face between the rapid and lean table, the isolated of some products from others, the prevention of their mixing ultimately led to the creation of only some of the original dishes, and all the menu has suffered in general - it became simpler, simplified.

We can say that it is more lucky a night table: since most days a year - from 192 to 216 in different years, were considered to be launched (and these posts were respected very strictly), it was a natural desire to expand the range of the lean table. From here an abundance in Russian cuisine of fungal and fish dishes, a tendency to use various vegetable raw materials - grains (porridge), vegetables, forest berries Both herbs (nettle, sick, swan, etc.).

Moreover, such well-known with x in. Vegetables, like cabbage, turnip, radish, peas, cucumbers, were prepared and ate - be it raw, salty, steamy, boiled or baked - separately one from the other. Therefore, for example, salads and especially winegreets were never peculiar to Russian cuisine and appeared in Russia already in the XIX century. as borrowing from the West. But they were originally done mainly with one vegetable, giving the corresponding name to salad, - the salad is cucumber, lettuce salad, potato salad, etc., etc.

Each type of mushrooms - freight, rims, hassle, whites, smurches, pectoris (champignons), etc. - Soliili or cooked completely separately, which, by the way, is practiced and so -na. The same can be said about the fish that was used in boiled, sluggish, salty, baked and less frequently in fried form. In the literature we meet the juicy, "delicious" names of fish dishes: Sigovina, Tyamenina, Shchusina, Haltushina, Somovin, Lososina, Sturgeon, Sevorin, Beluzhina and others. And the ear could be both Okunevoy, and Yershova, and Namie, and sterling, etc.

Thus, the number of dishes by name was huge, but all of them in content a little differed one of the other. The taste diversity was achieved, firstly, the difference in thermal and cold processing, as well as the use of various oils, mainly vegetable (hemp, nut, poppy, olive and significantly later - sunflower), secondly, the use of spices. From the last, onions, garlic, horseradish, dill, and in very large quantities, as well as parsley, anise, coriander, bay leaf, black pepper and carnation, which appeared in Russia already in the X-XI centuries appeared in Rus. Later, in the XV - early XVI centuries, they were supplemented with ginger, cardamomon, cinnamon, Airh (Irn root) and Saffron.

In the initial period of the development of Russian cuisine, there is a tendency to use liquid hot dishes that received the general name "Hlebova". The greatest distribution acquires such types of hlobov, like soup, chowers based on vegetation raw materials, as well as various strokes, brews, chatters, outstands, and other varieties of flour soups.

As for meat and milk, these products were consumed relatively rarely, and their processing did not differ in difficulty. The meat, as a rule, cooked in sch) or casheans, milk saw raw, tomlenoe or skis. Milk products made cottage cheese and sour cream, and the production of cream and oil remained almost unknown for a long time, at least until the XV-XVI centuries. These products have rarely appeared, irregularly.

The next step in the development of Russian cuisine is the period from the middle of the XVI century. And until the end of the XVII century. At this time, not only the further development of variants of the lean and rapid table continues, but the differences between the kitchens of various classes and classes are especially sharply indicated.

The kitchen of a simple people starts with this time to simplify, the kitchen of the boyars, the nobility and especially nobility becomes more and more refined. She collects, unites and summarizes the experience of previous centuries in the field of Russian cooking, creates on the basis of its new, more complex variants of old dishes, and also borps and openly introduces a number of foreign dishes and culinary techniques in Russian cuisine.

Special attention is drawn to a rapid festive table of that time. Along with the familiar already straight and boiled meat, the honorable place on the table is commemorated with a ridicule (that is, cooked on the spit) and roasted meat, poultry and game. The types of meat processing are increasingly differentiated. So, the beef is mainly for the preparation of the saltinone and for boiling (digestive female); From pork make ham for long-term storage or use it as fresh or milk pigly in a fried and stewed form, and only meat, lean pork is appreciated in Russia; Finally, lamb, poultry and game are used mainly for roast and only in part (lamb) for extinguishing.

In the XVII century All the main types of Russian soups are finalized, while unknown persons appear in medieval Rus Calia, Pirimki, Solyanka, bridins.

Enriched and lean table for nobility. A prominent place on it is beginning to occupy Bollyt, a black caviar, which ate not only as a catering, but also boiled in vinegar or poppy milk.

On cooking XVII century. Eastern and primarily Tatar cuisine has a strong influence, which is associated with joining in the second half of the XVI century. To the Russian state of the Astrakhan and Kazan Khanation, Bashkiria and Siberia. It was during this period that a fresh dough dishes (noodles, dumplings) are falling into Russian cuisine, such products, both raisins, uryuk, fig (figs), as well as lemons and tea, the use of which from it becomes traditional in Russia. Thus, the sweet table is significantly replenished.

Next to Gingerbreads, known in Russia before the adoption of Christianity, one could see a variety of rugs, sweet pies, lollipops, candies, numerous jams, and not only of berries, but also from some vegetables (carrots with honey and ginger, radish in a molate) . In the second half of the XVII century. The reed sugar (1) began to bring to Russia, from which candles and snacks, sloant, delicacies, fruits, etc. were cooked together with spices, and all these sweet meals were mainly the privilege of nobility (2).

    (1) The first refinery was founded by the merchant Vestov in Moscow, early XVIII in. He was allowed by the attributes of cane raw materials duty free. Sugar plants on the basis of beet raw materials were created only at the end of the XVIII - early XIX. explosive (The first plant is in the village of Alyabyev, Tula province).

    (2) In the menu of the Patriarch dinner in 1671, sugar, lollipops already specified.

For a boyars, the emergency abundance of dishes becomes characteristic - up to 50, and behind the tsarist table, their number grows up to 150-200. They are huge and the size of these dishes for which the largest swans, geese, turkey, the largest sturgeon or whites are usually selected - sometimes they are so great that three or four people are raised.

At the same time, the desire to decorate dishes. Food products are built by palaces, fantastic animals of giant sizes. Court dinners turn into a pompous, lush ritual, which is ongoing 6-8 h - from two hours to ten in the evening, - and include almost a dozen changes, each of which consists of a whole series (sometimes two tens) dishes of the same name, for example Of the ten sorts of fried ditch or salted fish, out of a dozen species of pancakes or pies (3).

    (3) The procedure for feeding dishes for a rich festive table, consisting of 6-8 changes, was finally developed in the second half of the XVIII century. However, one dish began to serve in each change. This order was preserved until the 60-70s of the XIX W.:
    1) hot (soup, soup, ear);
    2) Cold (Okroshka, Botchunya, Jelly, Flower Fish, Solonin);
    3) roast (meat, bird);
    4) tel (boiled or roasted hot fish);
    5) Pies (unsweetened), Culebyak;
    6) porridge (sometimes sch);
    7) Cupcake (sweet pies, pies);
    8) snacks.
Thus, in the XVII century. Russian cuisine has already been extremely diverse on the assortment of dishes (it comes, of course, about the kitchen of dominant classes). At the same time, cooking art in the sense of the ability to combine products, to identify their taste has stood on a very low level. It is enough to say that the products are still not allowed, their grinding, grinding, crushing. Most of all it belonged to the meat table. Therefore, Russian cuisine as opposed to French and German for a long time did not know and did not want to perceive various stuffing, rolls, pies and cutlets.

Old Russian cuisine turned out to be alien and all sorts of casseroles and puddings. The desire to prepare a dish from a whole large piece, and ideally from an animal or plants remained up to the XVIII century. An exception seemed to be a filling in pies, in whole animals and a bird, and in their parts - Sichuhhuh, a seller. However, in most cases it was, so to speak, ready-made stuffing, crushed by nature itself - grain (porridge), berries, mushrooms (they are also not cut). Fish for filling only looked, but not crushed. And only much later - at the end of the XVIII century. And especially in the XIX century. - already under the influence of Western European cuisine, some stuffing began to grind specially.

The next stage in the development of Russian cuisine occurs at the turn of the XVII and XVIII centuries. And lasts a little more than century - until the first decade of the XIX century. At this time, there is a radical sowing of kitchen of mainstream classes and kitchens of a simple people. If in the XVII century. The kitchen of dominant classes still kept national character And her difference from folk cuisine was expressed only in the fact that in quality, abundance and assortment of products and dishes she sharply exceeded the folk cuisine, then in the XVIII century. The kitchen of dominant classes gradually began to lose Russian national character.

Starting from Petrovsky times, Russian know and the rest of the nobility borrow and introduce Western European culinary traditions. Rich Velmazbes attending Western Europe, bring with you foreign chefs. Initially, it was mostly Dutch and German, especially Saxon and Austrian, then Swedish and mostly French. From the middle of the XVIII century. Foreign cooks were discharged so regularly that soon they had almost completely supplanted cooking cooks and serfs at the Higher Nobility.

One of the new customs that appeared at this time should be considered the use of snacks as an independent dish. German sandwiches, French and Dutch cheeses who came from the West and Dotole, were combined with old Russian dishes - Cold Solonina, jelly, ham, buoyanin, as well as with caviar, Balyk and another inquiry red fish in a single feed or even in special reception Food - breakfast.

New alcoholic beverages - Ratafi and Erofiechi appeared. Since the 70s of the XVIII century, when the tea has become becoming increasingly important, sweet cakes, pies and sloant, which were combined with tea in a separate flow and are confined to 5 o'clock in the evening and are confined to 5 o'clock in the society.

Only in the first half of the XIX century, after the Patriotic War of 1812, due to the overall rise of patriotism in the country and the struggle of Slavophilic circles with foreign influence, the interest in the national Russian cuisine is beginning to revive the interest in the advanced representatives of the nobility. However, when in 1816, the Tula landowner V. A. Levshin tried to draw up the first Russian cookbook, he was forced to state that "information about Russian dishes was almost completely destroyed" and therefore "it is impossible to submit now complete description Russian cook and should be happy only to be able to collect from the remaining in mind, because the history of the Russian cook has never been predicted by the description "(4). As a result, the collected by V. A. Leftshin on the memory of the description of Russian cuisine dishes were not only not accurate in their recipe, but in their range, they did not reflect the entire actual wealth of the Russian national table dishes.

    (4) Levshin V. A. Russian cook. M., 1816.
Kitchen of dominant classes and throughout the first halves XIX. in. continued to develop isolated from folk, under the noticeable influence of French cuisine. But the very nature of this influence has changed significantly. Unlike the XVIII century, when there was a direct borrowing of foreign dishes, such as a boiler, sausages, omelets, mousses, compotes, etc., and the displacement of invalid Russians, in the first half of the XIX century. There was a different process - the processing of a Russian culinary inheritance, and in the second half of the XIX century. Even the restoration of the Russian national menu, however, again, again with French speakers.

In Russia, during this period, a number of French chefs operate, radically reforming Russian cuisine of the dominant classes. The first French cook, left the mark in the reform of Russian cuisine, was Marie-Antoine Karem - one of the first and few explorers 'chefs, scientists' chefs. Before arriving in Russia at the invitation of Prince P. I. Bagration, Karem was a cook of the English prince-regent (future king George IV), the Duke of Württemberg, Rothschild, Talleyran. He was vividly interested in kitchens of various nations. During the short stay in Russia, Karem familiarized himself in detail with Russian cuisine, appreciated her advantages and outlined the way to liberate her from the apparent one.

The successors of Karem in Russia continued to reform them. This reform touched, firstly, the procedure for filing dishes to the table. Adopted in the XVIII century. The "French" feed system, when all the dishes were exhibited on the table at the same time, was replaced by an old Russian feeding method, when one dish replaced the other. At the same time, the number of changes was reduced to 4-5 and this sequence was introduced in the dinner serving, in which heavy dishes were alternating with light and exciting appetite. In addition, the table was no longer served as a whole meat or a bird, before serving, they began to cut them on the table. With such a system, decorating dishes as an endoral lost any meaning.

The reformers also performed the replacement of dishes from the crowded and rubbed products that took a large place in the kitchen of dominant classes in the XVIII - early XIX centuries., Dishes from natural, more characteristic Russian food products. So there were all sorts of chops (lamb and pork) from a whole piece of meat with a bone, natural bifhctecs, cops, lantheets, entrecotes, escalls.

At the same time, the efforts of cooking were aimed at eliminating the heavily and uncomfortableness of some dishes. So, in the recipes, they discarded the flour darling making them with tasteless, which remained only due to tradition, and not common sense, began to widely use potatoes in the garnish, which appeared in Russia in the 70s of the XVIII century.

For Russian pirogors, they suggested using a gentle puff pastry from wheat flour instead of rye sour. They also introduced a unprofitable way to prepare the test on pressed yeast, which we use now, thanks to which the acidic dough, for the preparation of which was previously required 10-12 hours, began to sleep in 2 hours.

Fit French cooks attention and snacks that have become one of the specific features of the Russian table. If in the XVIII century. The German form of feeding snacks was prevailed - sandwiches, then in the XIX century. It began to serve snacks on a special table, each view of a special dish, beautifully drawing up them, and thus expanded them to the range, choosing a number of old Russian Russians not only meat and fish, but also mushroom and vegetable sauer dishes that their abundance And the diversity from now on did not cease to be a permanent subject of surprise of foreigners.

Finally, the French school introduced combining products (winegirls, salads, side dishes) and accurate dosages in recipes dishes, not taken earlier in Russian cuisine, and familiarized Russian cuisine with the views of Western European kitchen appliances.

IN late XIX. in. On the change of the Russian oven and specially adapted to its thermal regime of pots and pig-iron came the plate with its oven, saucepans, casseroles, etc. Instead of Sita and the sieve began to use fluttering, snipers, meat grinders, etc.

An important contribution of French culinary in the development of Russian cuisine was that they prepared a whole pleiad of brilliant Russian chefs. Their students were Mikhail and Gerasim Stepanov, Dobrovolsky, V. Bestuzhev, I. Radetsky, P. Grigoriev, I. Antonov, 3. Eremeev, N. Sevev, P. Vikentyev and others who supported and distributed the best traditions of Russian cuisine on The length of the XIX century. Of these, G. Stepanov and I. Radetsky were not only outstanding practices, but also left the extensive leadership of Russian cooking.

In parallel with this process of updating the kitchen of the dominant classes, carried out, so to speak, the "top" and concentrated in the noble clubs and restaurants of St. Petersburg and Moscow, the other process was and the collecting, restoration and development of forgotten Russian recipes, spontaneously flowing in the province, in the landlord Manades up to the 70s of the XIX century. The source for this was gathering was a folk cuisine, in the development of which a huge number of nameless and unknown, but talented serfs took part.

By the last third of the XIX century. Russian cuisine of dominant classes thanks to a unique assortment of dishes, their exquisite and thin taste began to hold one of the leading places in Europe along with French cuisine.

At the same time it is necessary to emphasize that, despite all changes, bringing and foreign influences its main specific traits Preserved and remained to it inherent to the present, as they resistant held in folk cuisine. These main features of Russian cuisine and the Russian national table can be defined as follows: abundance of the diversity of the diner table, the love of bread, pancakes, pies, porridge, the originality of the first liquid cold and hot dishes, a variety of fish and mushroom table, wide use of pickles from Vegetables and mushrooms, abundance of a festive and sweet table with its jams, cookies, gingerbread, horses, etc.

Some features of Russian cuisine should be said more. Even at the end of the XVIII century. Russian historian I. Bolitin noted the characteristic features of the Russian table, including not only the prosperity. In rural areas, four pores of food were adopted, and in the summer at the work day - five: breakfast, or intercept, afternooner, previously dinner, or even at noon, lunch, dinner and bubble.

These wisdom, adopted in the Central and Northern Russia, remained in South, but with other names. There, in 6-7 h in the morning, they were sang, in 11-12 she dinned, at 14-15 were afraid, in 18-19 insulated, and in 22- 23 thousands. With the development of capitalism, the working person in the cities began at the beginning of three, and then only twice a day: there were breakfasts with dawn, dinner or dinner, come home. At work, only afraid, i.e., climbed cold food. Gradually, the dinner began to be called any complete food, a full table with hot vapors, sometimes no matter from time to time.

Bread played a big role in the Russian table. Other or other first liquid dishes in the village were usually eaten from shelter to a kilogram of black rye bread. White bread, wheat, was actually not common in Russia until the beginning of the XX century. His ate occasionally and mostly the prosperous layers of the population in the cities, and in the people they looked at him as a festive meal. Therefore, the white bread, called in a number of countries in a bun (5), was baked in bakeries like black, but in special bakery and sweetened slightly. The local species of white bread were Moscow sails and Kalachi, Smolensk pretzels, Valdai Baranki, etc. Black bread differed not at the place of manufacture, but only in the family of baking and the variety of flour - pekely, custard, subholdy, wedding, etc.

    (5) "Bulk" - from french word. Boule, which means "round like a ball." Initially, white bread was baked only French and German bakers - bobbies.
From the XX century They entered use and other flour products from white, wheat, flour, previously not peculiar to Russian cuisine - Vermicelli, pasta, while the use of pies, pancakes and piqule decreased. In connection with the spread of white bread, tea drinking with it began to replace breakfast, dinner.

The first liquid dishes were kept unchanged in Russian cuisine, called from the end of the XVIII century. soups. Soups always played a dominant role in the Russian table. No wonder the spoon was the main cutlery. She appeared with us earlier forks for almost 400 years. "Wilko, that fishing, and a falcon, which is a non-child," said the People's Proverb.

The range of national Russian soup, paste, stubbles, ears, rasiders, Soliask, Botvini, Okrozhek, pronounced, continued to be replenished in the XVIII-XX centuries. Different types of Western European soups like broths, puree soups, various filling soups with meat and croups, which were well leaving thanks to the love of the Russian people to hot liquid Verev.

In the same way, they received a place on the modern Russian table and many soups of the peoples of our country, for example, Ukrainian borscht and kulesh, Belarusian beams and soups with dumplings. Many soups, especially vegetable and vegetable-cereal, were obtained from a diluted cask-sleeper (i.e., caskets with vegetable frighting) or are fruits of restaurant cuisine. However, not they, despite their diversity, and the old, the original Russian soups like a severity and the ear define so far the originality of the Russian table.

To lesser extent than soups, retained its original value in the Russian table. Fish dishes. Some classic Russian fish dishes seemed to be separated from use. Meanwhile, they are tasty, simple cooking. They can be prepared from sea fish, which, by the way, used in Russian cuisine in the old days, especially in Northern Russia, in Russian Pomorie. Residents of these areas of the districts have long been familiar in those days have been familiar to the cod, halight, pike, Moire, Navahar. "Unfortunate - worse Berekleba," the pomor's saying said.

Known in Russian cuisine Fish steam, boiled, vehicle, i.e., made in a special way from one fillet, without bones, fried, chieny (filled with porridge or mushroom stuffing), stew, filling, baked in scales, baked on a pan in sour cream , Corolina (salty), dried and dried (jerk). In the Pechora and Perm region, fish, in addition, quasili (sour fish), and in Western Siberia. They ate strikanin - ice cream raw fish. Unpropered was only a way to smoke fish, which was developed mainly only in the last 70-20 years, i.e. from the beginning of the XX century.

Characteristic of the old Russian cuisine was the widespread use of spices in a rather large assortment. However, the decline in the role of fish, mushroom dishes and dice dishes, as well as the introduction of a row of German cuisine in the menu, has affected the reduction of the rustles used in Russian cuisine.

In addition, many spices are due to the high cost, as well as vinegar and salt, since the XVII century. The people began to use re in the process of cooking, and put on the table and use already during meals depending on the desire of each. This custom gave an occasion subsequently to argue that Russian cuisine allegedly did not use spices. At the same time, referred to the well-known essay of Kotoshikhin about Russia in the XVII century, where he wrote: "We are customs cooking without seasonally, without peppers and inbiru, salted and strain." Meanwhile, the same city of Kotoshin explained: "And how the network will begin and in which there is little vinegar and salt and peppers, and in those that are added on the table" (6).

    (6) Kotoshin G. About Russia in the reign of Alexei Mikhailovich. Spb. 1840.
From those distant times, a custom put during a meal on a table salt in Salonka, pepper in the list, mustard and vinegar in separate jars. As a result, the folk cuisine did not work out the skills of cooking with spices, while in the kitchen of the rigorous classes of spices continued to be used in the process of cooking. But the spices and seasonings Russian cuisine knew even at the time of his formation, they were skillfully combined with fish, mushrooms, child, cakes, soups, gingerbread, Easter and herbs, and used carefully, but nevertheless constantly and certainly. And this circumstance can not be forgotten and overlooked by saying about the peculiarities of Russian cuisine.

Finally, in conclusion, it is necessary to dwell on some technological processes inherent in Russian cuisine.

On a large segment of the development of the Russian national cuisine, the cooking process was reduced to cooking or baking products in a Russian oven, and these operations were carried out necessarily separately. What was intended for cooking was drunk from the beginning to the end, what was intended for cookies, only baked. Thus, the people's Russian cuisine did not know what combined or even different, combined or double thermal processing.

The heat treatment of food was heated by the warmth of the Russian oven, strong or weak, three degrees - "to breads", "after breads", "on the free spirit", but always contactless with fire and or with a constant temperature-holding temperature, or With a falling, decreasing temperature, when the furnace gradually cooled, but never with an increasing temperature, as with pouring. Therefore, the Kushan was always not even boiled, but rather tormented or semi-thousand-semi-sustained, which was acquired by a very special taste. No wonder, many dishes of old Russian cuisine do not make a proper impression when they are prepared in different temperature conditions.

Does this mean that you need to restore the Russian oven to get in modern conditions Real dishes of Russian cuisine? There is no way. Instead, it is enough to imitate the incident temperature generated by it. Such imitation in modern conditions is possible.

However, we should not forget that the Russian oven provided not only a positive, but to a certain extent and bad influence - She did not stimulate the production of rational technological techniques.

The introduction of nylinders led to the need to borrow a number of new technological techniques and with them dishes of Western European cuisine, as well as to the reform of the dishes of old Russian cuisine, their refining and development, adaptation to new technology. This direction turned out to be fruitful. It helped save from oblivion the many dishes of Russian cuisine.

Speaking of Russian cuisine, we still emphasized her features and characteristic features, considered the history of its development and its content as a whole. Meanwhile, pronounced regional differences in it should be kept in mind, which are mainly explained by the diversity natural zones and associated with this nobility of plant and animal products, various influence of neighboring peoples, as well as the variegated social structure of the population in the past.

That is why Muscovites and Pomor's kitchens, Cossacks of Don and Siberians are very different. While in the north they eat venison, fresh and salty seaside fish, rye pies, dejni with cottage cheese and a lot of mushrooms, on Don fry and extinguished steppe game, eat a lot of fruits and vegetables, drink vine wine and prepare pies with chicken. If the food of the pompers is similar to the Scandinavian, Finnish, Karelian and Loparovskaya (Sami), the Turkish, Nogai cuisine, and the Russian population in the Urals or Siberia, follows the Russian population in the Urals or to Siberian traditions, should have a noticeable influence.

Regional features of a different plan have long been inherent in the kitchen of old Russian regions of Central Russia. These features are still due to medieval rivalry between Novgorod and Pskov, Tver and Moscow, Vladimir and Yaroslavl, Kaluga and Smolensk, Ryazan and Nizhny Novgorod. And they manifested in the area of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen not in major misatios, such as differences in cooking technology or available in each area of \u200b\u200btheir dishes, as it was, for example, in Siberia and in the Urals, and in differences just between the same dishes in differences Differences are often even insignificant, but nevertheless pretty persistent.

A vivid example of this is at least such common Russian dishes, like ear, pancakes, pies, cereals and gingerbread: they were made throughout European Russia, but in each area there were their favorite views of these dishes, their small differences in their recipe, their own appearance, your feeds to the table, etc.

This, if you can say, "small regional" we are obliged to occur, develop and existence so far, for example, different species Gingerbread - Tula, Vyazemsky, Voronezh, Gorodetsky, Moscow, etc.

Regional differences, both large and small, naturally, even more enriched Russian cuisine, diversified it. And at the same time, they all did not change its main nature, because in each particular case, the general features noted above, which, in aggregate, distinguish national Russian cuisine throughout Russia from Baltic to the Pacific Ocean are drawn.

Section:
William Vasilyevich Pryshabkin
"National cuisines of our peoples"

7th page page

Russian kitchen
Second dishes - meat dishes

In Russian folk cuisine, you can highlight three main varieties of meat second dishes:

Boiled meat with a large piece, prepared in soups and cashis, and then used as a second dish or as a cold snack;

Dishes from offal (liver, glades, silenda), coated together with cereals in pots;

The dishes from the whole animal (birds) or from the part of it (legs), or from a large piece of meat (flashes, the fire), fried in the oven on the contrary, the so-called roast.

Various cutlets, bokings, frkages, beds, prepared from ground meat, borrowed and received distribution only in the XIX-XX centuries., For classical Russian cuisine are not characteristic and therefore not given here.

In the past, porridge and kashitsa, in which meat were boiled, were used, then either boiled, and rather steamy and baked, root, root (turnip, carrots), as well as mushrooms; To the hot, regardless of the meat used, also served with pickles - sauer cabbage, uroin and sour apples, died lingonberries, extinguishes.

In modern conditions, baked vegetables for Russian meat dishes are conveniently prepared in aluminum food foil. The role of the podliva plays usually juice, formed during frying, as well as heated sour cream and baked butter, watered boiled vegetables or squeeze porridges, i.e., a garnish. Sauces for meat dishes, i.e., gravy on flour, oil, eggs and milk, not peculiar to the original Russian cuisine.

Boiled meat dishes

Ingredients:

1 head (calf or pork), 4 legs (calf or pork), 1 carrot, 1 parsley (root), 10 black pepper peas, 5 peasors of the Jamaican (fragrant) pepper, 5 laurel leaves, 1-2 bulbs, 1 garlic head , per 1 kg of meat - 1 l of water.

Cooking

Legs and heads fall, clean, cut into equal pieces, pour water and cook from 6 to 8 hours on very slow heat, without boiling so that the volume of water decreased by half. For 1 -1.5 h before the end of the cooking, add onions, carrots, parsley, for 20 minutes - pepper, bay leaf; Some escape.
Then remove the meat, separate from the bones, cut into small pieces, shifted into separate dishes, mix with finely chopped garlic and a small amount of ground black pepper.
Broth with the remaining bones of failing for another half an hour (so that its volume does not exceed 1 l), heal, strain and pour them boiled prepared meat.
Candle for 3-4 hours.
Gelatin does not apply, since in young meat (veal, pigly, pork) contains a sufficient amount of adhesive substances.
Jelly serve with a horseradish, mustard, crumpled garlic with sour cream.

Beef dubborn

The beef Razvazed by a large piece (1.5-2 kg) is boiled in Cashiana (Tikhvin, Kostroma) and less often in bone broths (broths from bones are prepared in advance and then the meat is immersed in boiling broth).
For dwarm beef, it is mainly used to shovel and swelling parts, as well as the crudge, a thin edge.
The usual cooking time is 2.5 hours on moderate fire.

Sub-products (Baked)

Ingredients:

1 Baranya Head, 4 Barani Legs, 1 Bars of Sichuch, 2 Glasses of buckwheat Crupes, 4 bulbs, 100 g of butter or sunflower oil.

Cooking

1. Baranje head and legs break so that the meat is lagging behind the bones. Separate meat. Brain from the head take out.
2. Cook a cool buckwheat porridge.
3. The bulb of meat is finely cut together with the bow, mix with pitching and oil.
4. Barbells of the Sichuch thoroughly scratch, wash, start the prepared minced meat (paragraph 3), in the middle of it to put the brains, sew a schuch and put in the clay dishes (in Korchagu - a wide clay pot), which is tightly closed.
Put it in a weakly heated oven for 2-3 hours.

STUFFING BOX

Ingredients:

1 Barbuses of the gland, 1 kg of lamb liver, 1.5-2 glasses of buckwheat cereals, 3 eggs, 3 bulbs, 5-6 dry white mushrooms, 1 cup sour cream.

Cooking

The liver Soak out for 2 hours in water or milk, boil, cut up soam, mix with a cool buckwheat cashey and unwound with dry mushrooms and knead out on sour cream in a thick mass.
To fill it with a bowl, laid pre-in Korchagha (wide clay pot) so that the edges of the gland tightly blocked this mass on top.
Pot close.
Bake the oil seal in the oven 1-1.5 hours on moderate fire.

Pereney

Ingredients:

1.5 kg of bay Liver, 1 Barbuses of the gland, 4 eggs, 1-1.5 cup of milk, 1 garlic head, 2 bulbs, 10 peas of black pepper.

Cooking

1. Rash raw liver, clean from films, cut your boiling water, shallowly cut off, and then pull out with a finely chopped onion, garlic and pepper.
2. Two full eggs and two yolks whip, mix with milk.
3. Connect the products indicated in paragraphs 1 and 2, pour into the bars of the gland placed in the clay pot, close the edges of the gland from above, lubricate with whipped proteins and bake in the furnace or oven for 2-3 hours on weak heat.

Fried meat dishes

Roast piglet

Ingredients:

1 Milk piglet (1.5 kg), 500 g of buckwheat cereals, 50 g of butter, 2 tbsp. Spoons of sunflower or olive oil.

Cooking

Preparation of a piglet.
Repleted piglery to wash with cold water, to hold 3-4 minutes in it, then omit in boiling water for 2-3 minutes, pull out the bristles carefully, without damaging the skin, rub the flour, fall, then resolve, rolling, wash inside and outside, after which it is desirable From the inside cut all the bones (ribs, ridge), with the exception of the head and legs, in no case do not cut through meat and skin through.

Preparation of minced meat.
Prepare a cool buckwheat porridge, but not to squeeze nothing but butter. Before cooking, roasting the croup with butter, rolling with boiling water, separating the pop-up grains. Finished porridge can salt moderately. Add a roasted and distorted Liver pig, mix.

Stuffed piglet.
The porridge lay down along the pig evenly all over, so as not to distort his shape, not allowing thickening in separate places, at the same time enough tight. Then to sew a piglet with a harsh thread, straighten the shape, adjust the legs, put on the bairc of the sideways on the arms of the cross, the birch sticks so that the skin of the pig does not touch the opposition. It is impossible to salt or squeeze the spices.

Frying a piglet.
To deceive the pig with vegetable oil, fill the melted cream from above and put in a preheated oven until shutting. By the way to flip and shove the other side. After that, reduce the fire and continue to fry, watering the pig with flowing juice every 10 minutes for 1 hour and alternately turning: 15-20 minutes to fry the back.

When the pig will be ready, to make a deep incision along his back, so that steam came out of the pig and he did not shove. In this case, the crust remains dry and crispy. It is possible to stand for 15 minutes, cut into pieces (or leave the whole), pour the juice left after frying and serve to a table with a cranberry spacing.

ROAST

Ingredients:

2-2.5 kg remedy beef (thick edge), 1 carrot, 2 bulbs, 1 parsley or celery, 6-8 grains of black pepper, 3-4 laurel sheets, 2 hours. Ginger spoons, 0.5 cups sour cream, 1 h. Spoon salt, 1-1.5 glasses of kvass.

Cooking

Beef to wash, clean from films, bones, cut off with her fat, cut it with small pieces, put on a preheated pan or barbell, melt, rolling, fry the beef with a whole piece to be covered with a crust, sprinkling finely chopped carrots, onions, parsley And pushed spices, then put in the oven, water every 10 minutes gradually kvass, all the time turning over.
Fry about 1-1.5 h.
5-7 minutes before the end of the fry to collect all the juice into a cup, add 0.25 cups of cold boiled water to it, put in the refrigerator.
When the juice cools, remove the fat layer from the surface, and heat the meat juice, strain, add sour cream. Serve as sauce to hot.
Finished beef to remove out of the oven, salt, give her a slightly cool (15 min), then cut across the fibers into pieces, pour hot meat juice and serve.
Roast is not served cold and do not heat up.
The side dish can be fried potatoes, boiled or stewed carrots, repa, trouser, roasted or stew mushrooms.

Wares to hot

Pickles have a vegetable basis - vegetable or berry. Additional components in them are often vinegar and honey.
The most traditional extensions are onion, cabbage, cranberry.

Onion

Ingredients:

5-6 bulbs, 2-3 tbsp. Spoons of vinegar, 1-2 art. Spoons of honey, 1 tbsp. A spoon of grained oil (or 2 tbsp. Vegetable spoons), 0.5-1 h. Spoon of ground pepper.

Cooking

The onions are chopping, moisten to the cinema, give to stand 5-10 minutes, then slightly fry in a frying pan until soft, sweeten honey, respect until the fluid thickening on a slow fire is thickened, salt.
Serve to fried lamb, geese, turkeys.

Capacity

Ingredients:

1 half-liter pot of sauerkraut, 2 bulbs, 50 g of grained oil, 2 tbsp. Spoons of vinegar, 2 tbsp. Spoons of honey, 1 tsp black ground pepper.

Cooking

Cabbage to cut as much as possible, fry on oil in a frying pan with a finely chopped onion until soft, mix well with vinegar, reckoned with honey (in a separate enameled dishes - a mug, a saucepan), everything thoroughly grind, again let out, fill in pepper , Salted.
Serve to geous, dwarf and fried beef.

Cranberry

Ingredients:

1 Half Cranberry Bank, 75-100 g of Honey, 1 tbsp. A spoon of flour (better than rye or cheap wheat).

Cooking

From cranberry squeeze juice. Pumping pour 1 glass of boiling water, respect well in the saucepan, once again squeeze, cool and dilute in this cranberry water flour.
Juice to respect with honey to easy thickening, pour into the moment of boiling cranberry water with flour and reward again.
Serve to roasted pig, turkey.

Once, the father of the famous Soviet culinary Culilam Villam Pokhlebkin changed the surname of Mikhailov to Edible - Pokhlebkin. The new version was solely successful for the son, a historian scientist who acquired world fame due to its serious hobby of gastronomy.

William passed the whole second world WarHe studied at the Faculty of International Relations MGIMO, seriously engaged in history, especially paying Scandinavia. But all this time, a scientist with a non-fiscal name William Augustus paid attention to ... Food. His first book was Tom dedicated to tea, then there was amazing, dozens of times reprinted "History of Russian vodka". There were "porridge", "spices", "rice" and even "soy". But the most interesting is not the topic, but the way they are developed. The scientist approached the books about food is not as a collection of recipes, but as an attempt to maintain and strengthen the national self-consciousness, nor anymore. After all, the food is not just what the stomach is stuffed, is the memory of the past, to some extent it ourselves.

"Any food," the cook and the cuisine explorer wrote, is good if it is historically and nationally determined. " Not in vain one of the merits of William Pokhlebkin - restoration of the recipe for an old Russian dish - Kundyumov, that is, lean dumplings. Therefore, in the names of his recipes, words are so often found inside which there is something familiar to us, but as if forgotten: Glazunya's sleeper, Botvinya, Perecking, Sbite ... Schlebkin paid attention not only to Russian cuisine. He prepared and described a huge number of Moldovan, Georgian, Ukrainian and many other dishes.

For you - 5 proprietory recipes for Villama Augustus Pokhlebkin, scientist and cook!

Recipe Kostroma Kostroma from bark with thyme.

What do you need:

  • 1.5 glasses of burglar cereals
  • 0.5 glasses of pea
  • 1 Lukovitsa
  • 2 tbsp. Spoon thyme
  • 3 tbsp. Spoons of creamy oil
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 2 liters of water

How to cook porridge Kostroma from William Pokhlebkin:

  1. Rinse and boil the bruise croup in salted water for 15-20 minutes. Foam constantly shoot.
  2. Peas, which need to soak and boil in advance to half-preparation, add to the bier. There is a challenged onion. Cook until full readiness.
  3. Make oil, thyme, stir and cook for another 5 minutes.
  4. Krasroma Karaz from William Pokhlebkin is ready.

Bon Appetit!

Musaka is a Moldovan dish, consisting in half of vegetables and meat. The peculiarity of Moldovan Musaki is that all products are laid at the same time and stew together for no more than one hour.

Moldavian Musaka Recipe with Baransh Main.

What do you need:

  • 2 Lukovitsy
  • 2-3 eggplant
  • 5-6 tomatoes
  • 5 potatoes
  • 3 zucchini
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • Green dill and parsley
  • Black pepper, salt to taste
  • Vegetable oil to taste

For minced meat:

  • 500 g lamb
  • 2 Lukovitsy
  • 1 potato
  • 1 small carrot
  • 0.5 cups of sour cream
  • 1 egg

How to cook Moldovan Musaka from William Pokhlebkin:

  1. All vegetables cut into circles about 0.5 cm thick.
  2. The bottom of the pan was smeared with oil and lay out the layer of eggplants, layer of onions, a layer of tomatoes, a layer of zucchini and so on. In the middle, put meat minced meat and again cover with layers: eggplants, onions, tomatoes, and so on.
  3. For making minced meat, missing through the meat grinder together with onions, carrots and raw potatoes. Salt, pepper, slightly fry on vegetable oil and mix with egg and sour cream.
  4. Do not forget every two layers of Musaki to squeeze it with spices and saline.
  5. Put in the oven, prepare at a temperature of 180 degrees 1 hour.
  6. Moldavian Musaka from William Pokhlebkin is ready.

Bon Appetit!

Plumachinta - Moldavian Pie from fresh dough with cottage cheese, cheese or potatoes.

Recipe pluchints with cheese and potatoes.

What do you need:

For dough:

  • 500 g of flour
  • 1 cup of warm water
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 3 tbsp. Spoons of sunflower oil

For filling:

  • 1 cup of cheese
  • 5 potatoes
  • 1 Lukovitsa
  • 1 egg
  • 3 tbsp. Spoons of vegetable oil
  • Chopping red pepper

How to cook a plumbing with a cheese from William Pokhlebkin:

  1. To knead the dough, neatly connecting all the components. If it turns out too cool, add some more water. The dough is very good to knead and put for 10 minutes in a warm place, covering the heated towel.
  2. Dough split into the same slices with a large egg. Thinly roll out each piece. Leave for a few minutes.
  3. Prepare filling. Potatoes boil, make mashed potatoes. Onions cut and fry. Drink egg and mix. All ingredients are mixed, add.
  4. To make a stuffing and close, not to cover the edges for each piece of rolled dough.
  5. Share a plumbing on the baking sheet, lubricate with oil and bake in the oven on moderate heat for 20 minutes.
  6. Plumachinta with cheese from William Pokhlebkin is ready.

Bon Appetit!

Recipe for turkey stew with rice and raisins.

What do you need:

  • 1 medium turkey
  • 1 cup of rice
  • 0.5 glasses of raisin without seeds
  • 2 eggs
  • 3 tbsp. Spoons of creamy oil
  • 1 h. Spoon of ground ginger
  • 1 Lukovitsa
  • 1 carrot
  • Bunch of parsley
  • 3-4 laurel sheets
  • 5-6 black pepper peas
  • Salt to taste

How to prepare turkey stewed with rice, from Villama Pokhlebkin:

  1. Turkey is turned, rinse and graze from the inside with ginger.
  2. At this time, rice to boil to half-year. Mix with a strained raisins and eggs. Add butter and mix.
  3. Start turkey rice, put in a pan with a thick bottom, put the chopped vegetables, spices. Pour 0.5 glasses of boiling water. Cover with a lid and stew on a slow heat of 1.5 hours.
  4. After that, remove the lid and put the turkey for 15 minutes in the oven to smooth a little.
  5. Turkey stewed with rice, from William Pokhlebkin is ready.

Bon Appetit!

Cundumes with mushrooms from William Pokhlebkin

Kundyuma is an old Russian dish, like dumplings with a mushroom filling. Kundyums are not allowed immediately, first their bake, and then tomatifs in the oven.

Recipe of coucrops with white mushrooms and buckwheat.

What do you need:

For dough:

  • 2 cups of flour
  • 0.75 glasses of boiling water
  • 4 tbsp. Spoons of vegetable oil

For ragger: 20 dry white mushrooms

  • Prepare dough. In sunflower oil, pour boiling water, pour into the same flour and quickly knead the dough. Roll it into a very subtle layer.
  • Cut the dough with squares 5 by 5 cm. Share on each square on the spoon of the filling. Shape dumplings.
  • Lubricate the baking sheet with oil, lay out the coupes and bake them in the oven for 15 minutes.
  • Shoot the coupes to the Kazan, pour the mushroom decoction, add spices, slightly salted. Put in the oven for 15 minutes.
  • Serve with sour cream.
  • Cundumes with mushrooms from William Pokhlebkin are ready.
  • Bon Appetit!

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