Bull heart Pokhlebkin Recipes of Russian cuisine. William Pokhlebkin: biography, photos and interesting facts
William Pokhlebkin became famous not only as a scientist and a specialist in international relations, but also as a culinary researcher. William Pokhlebkin became the most famous gastronomic historian in Russia. They were written not one culinary book, according to his recipes of Russian cuisine still learn to prepare. Woman's Day gathered the most famous dishes of William Pokhlebkin.
Soup rich (full): recipe
Ingredients:
750 g beef, 500-750 g or 1 half-liter can sauerkraut, 4-5 dry white mushrooms, 0.5 glasses of saline mushrooms, 1 carrot, 1 large potatoes, 1 turnpa, 2 bulbs, 1 root and celery greenery, 1 root and parsley greenery, 1 tbsp. A spoon of dill, 3 laurel sheets, 4-5 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp. l. Cream or shaken oil, 1 tbsp. l. cream, 100 g sour cream, 8 peas of black peppers, 1 tsp. Majorana or Dry Angelica (Zori).
Beef, together with a bulb and a half root (carrots, parsley, celery) put in cold water and cook 2 hours. 1-1.5 hours after the start of the cooking is salt, then the broth straightened, reject the root.
In the clay pot of putting a sauer cabbage, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water, add butter, close, put in moderately heated oven. When cabbage starts to be softer, remove it and combine with the leaky broth and beef.
Mushrooms and cut into four parts potatoes folded into an enameled saucepan, pour 2 glasses cold water And put on fire. When water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into straw and omit in the mushroom broth to joke. After the readiness of mushrooms and potatoes to connect with meat broth.
To the connected broths and cabbage add a finely chopped bulb, all other roots, chopped straw and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from the fire, fill it with dill and garlic and let it bloom for about 15 minutes, having flooding something warm. Before serving on the table, fill with large sliced \u200b\u200bmushrooms and sour cream right in plates.
Jelly: Recipe
Ingredients:
1 head (calf or pork), 4 legs (calfs or pork), 1 carrot, 1 parsley (root), 5 peas of the Yamaican (fragrant) pepper, 10 black pepper peas, 5 laurel leaves, 1-2 bulbs, 1 garlic head , per 1 kg of meat - 1 l of water.
Legs and heads fall, clean, cut into equal pieces, pour water and cook from 6 to 8 hours on very weak fire, without boiling so that the volume of water decreased by half. For 1-1.5 hours before the end of the cooking, add onions, carrots, parsley, for 20 minutes. - pepper, bay leaf; Some escape. Then remove the meat, separate from the bones, cut into small pieces, shifted into separate dishes, mix with finely chopped garlic and a small amount of ground black pepper. Broth with the remaining bones of slaughtering another half an hour (so that its volume does not exceed 1 liter), heal, strain and pour them boiled prepared meat. Candle for 3-4 hours.
Gelatin does not apply, since in young meat (veal, pigly, pork) contains a sufficient amount of adhesive substances.
Jelly serve with a horseradish, mustard, crumpled garlic with sour cream.
Roast: Recipe
Ingredients:
2-2.5 kg remedy beef (thick edge), 1 carrot, 2 bulbs, 1 parsley or celery, 6-8 grains of black pepper, 3-4 laurel sheets, 2 h. ginger, 0.5 cups sour cream, 1 tsp. Salts, 1-1.5 glasses of kvass.
Beef to wash, clean from films, bones, cut off with her fat, cut it with small pieces, put on a preheated pan or barbell, melt, rolling, fry the beef with a whole piece to be covered with a crust, sprinkling finely chopped carrots, onions, parsley And pushed spices, then put in the oven, water every 10 minutes. Little by kvass, all the time turning over. Fry approximately 1-1.5 hours in 5-7 minutes. Until the end of frying, collect all juice into a cup, add 0.25 cups of cold boiled water to it, put it in the refrigerator. When the juice cools, remove the layer of fat from the surface, heat heat, strain, add sour cream. Serve as sauce to hot. Finished beef to remove out of the oven, salt, give it a slightly cool (15 min.), Then cut across the fibers into pieces, pour hot meat juice and serve.
Roast is not served cold and do not heat up. The side dish can be fried potatoes, boiled or stewed carrots, repa, trouser, roasted or stew mushrooms.
Pike in sour cream: recipe
Ingredients:
1-1.5 kg Pike, 1-2 Art. l. Sunflower oil, 300-450 g sour cream, 1-2 h. Black ground pepper, 1 lemon (juice and zest), 1 pinch of nutmeg.
Fish with a specific smell (for example, pike, some types of sea fish) requires special methods of processing and cooking.
Pike clean, rub the pepper outside and inside, pour oil and put into a deep frying pan on the ceramic stand (can be saucer) and put into the oven for 7-10 minutes. So that the fish is shred. Then shifting into a closer dishes, pour sour cream, half covering it with a pike, close the lid and put into the oven for a weak fire by 45-60 minutes. Put ready fish on the dish, hire with lemon juice, and heat up to warm up on the stove to thickening, salt, twisted with grated nutmeg and zest and serve separately to the fish in a sauce or pour it fish.
Fried mushrooms: recipe
Ingredients:
4 glasses of purified mushrooms (different), 100-150 g of sunflower oil, 2 bulbs, 1 tbsp. l. dill, 2 tbsp. l. Parsley, 0.5 cups sour cream, 0.5 h. Black hammer pepper.
Clear mushrooms, rinse, cut into straw, put on a preheated dry frying pan, cover with a lid and fry on medium heat until the juice released with the mushrooms almost completely; Then salted, add a finely chopped onion, pour the oil, mix and continue to fry on a more moderate heat before the formation of a brownish flavor for about 20 minutes. After that, pepper, sprinkle a finely chopped greenery of dill and parsley, mix, plular 2-3 minutes., Add sour cream and bring it to a boil.
In the mushroom season, it is important to know how to cook the mushrooms.
Oatmeal Porridge: Recipe
Ingredients:
2 glasses of oat flakes "Hercules", 0.75 liters of water, 0.5 l of milk, 2 h. Salt, 3 tbsp. l. Butter.
Croce pour water and cook on low heat until water digestion and complete thickening, then add hot milk into two receptions and, continuing to stir, cook before thickening, putting it. Finished porridge to fill with oil.
Cabbage Pie: Recipe
Yeast puff pastry
Ingredients:
600 g of flour, 1.25-1.5 cup of milk (1.25 for sweet cake), 125 g of butter, 25-30 g of yeast, 1-2 yolks (2 yolks for sweet cake), 1.5 hours. l. Salt.
In the case of using this test for sweet pies, it is added: 1 tbsp. l. Sugar 1 tsp. Lemon zest, badyana, cinnamon or cardamom (depending on the filling: to nuts, Makova - Cardamon, to an apple - cinnamon, to Cherry - Badyan, to currarian, strawberry - zest).
Flour, milk, yeast, yolks, salt and 25 g of oil to knead the dough, thoroughly knead and give to climb during cool room temperature. It came up to mix the dough, roll in a layer with a thickness of about 1 cm, lubricate the oil with a thin layer, folded fourly, then put on 10 minutes. To cold. Then roll out and lubricate with oil, folding the layers and repeating this operation three times, after which it is possible to climb the test in a cold place. After that, not dinner, to cut the dough under the cake.
Cappucta Stuff
You can cook filling both fresh and stewed cabbage.
Fresh cabbage cut, salt, give to stand about 1 hour, slightly squeeze juice, add butter and finely cut steep eggs and immediately use the filling.
Fresh cabbage cut, put in a saucepan under the cover, grieving on a weak heat until it becomes soft, then add sunflower oil, strengthen the fire, fry the cabbage slightly so that it remains light, add bow, parsley green and black ground pepper, mix with Cool chopped eggs.
Buckwheat pancakes: recipe
Ingredients:
3.5 cups of buckwheat flour, 1.5 glass of wheat flour, 2.5 glasses of warm water, 2 glasses of boiling milk, 25 g of yeast, 25 g of butter, 2 eggs, 1 h. Sugar, 1 tsp. Salts, 0.5 glasses of melted oil.
In the water, dilute yeast, add all wheat flour and equal volume buckwheat, let go. Pick up the remaining buckwheat flour, again give to approach. Brew dough hot milk, cool, put sugar, salt, butter, let go and then oven.med gingerbread
Ingredients:
400 g of wheat flour, 100 g of rye flour, 2 yolks, 0.75-1 glass of milk or sources, 125 g sour cream, 500 g of honey, 1 tbsp. Spoon sugar-zhizhki, 1 tsp. Cinnamon, 2 Cardamom Caps, 4 Carnation Buton, 0.5 h. Badyan, 1 tsp. Lemon zest, 0.5 h. soda.
Honey welded in a saucepan on the weak heat of a hot, removing the foam, then brew a part of his rye flour and stirred with the rest of honey, cool to a little warm state and beat something.
Zhporto erase with yolks, add milk and knead the wheat flour on an egg-milk mixture, having stirred it and mixed with erased in powder with spices.
Connect the honey-rye mixture with the sour cream and the above mixture, thoroughly whipping them. Finished dough to put in a lubricated oil shape (or baking sheet) with a layer of 1-2 cm and bake on a small fire. Cut 4x6 cm rectangles ready for rectangles.
These gickers do not glan.
Cooking sugar-zhizhki. Make a thick sugar syrup and heat it on a moderate fire in a small thick-walled metal tableware, stirring all the time before yellowing, after which it is slightly reduced fire and continue to stir before purchasing a beige or light brown shade. At the same time, sugar should not be burned, the smell must be specifically caramel, not burned. This is achieved thorough, continuous stirring and fire regulation. The resulting light brown lollipop is used for tints and giving the "caramel" aroma products.
07.09.2016
Soup from headache and cloudy mood. Do not believe? There is such. The author's recipe from a very worthy person, proven experience. William Vasilyevich Pokhlebkin. True representative of the Russian intelligentsia.
Listen to his interview, they can still be found on the Internet. Immediately revives the atmosphere of doperer-cutting kitchens, where a glass of hot tea and a conversation was ready for each wishes, because it was impossible to break away before. There, without care, in emotional fake, left and right, brilliant thoughts crossed. This then began to count how much every such word costs.
There were those who turned them into rather impressive fees. But happiness did not add it. The original Russian mind, tested by the tradition of conscience, is difficult to spoil education or infect care. As the grass pierces asphalt, and he will give himself a felt through the most casual nanos of alien culture. Pokhlebkin, Russian thinker, so Russian that the diva is given, as if out of fairy tales came out.
At the age of 17, he left the volunteer to the front. Served in intelligence. Passed almost the whole war. Because of the hard injury, I could no longer serve. Even at the front perfectly mastered the German and three more languages. In 1949 he graduated from MGIMO USSR Foreign Ministry. His foreign sounding name, nevertheless, not at all foreign roots. In fact, the name is His forks, which means Vladimir Ilyich Lenin. Full name - Vil-August.
His father, Russian revolutionary-underground Mikhailov, called the Son in honor of Vladimir Lenin and August Bebel. However, "Villa" renounced in William, may have affected the profession. Pokhlebkin - one of the best specialists in foreign Policy countries of Central and Northern Europe. He defended his thesis on the newest diplomacy of Norway. He worked at the Institute of History of the USSR Academy of Sciences.
He taught in MGIMO, the highest diplomatic school Foreign Ministry of the USSR, in Moscow State University. President of Finland, Kekkonen, awarded William Vasilyevich Prize for best job About Finland. This award, $ 50,000, Pokhlebkin gave to the Soviet government. He himself preferred poverty. In everyday life - ascetic, in thought - devotee, in honor - flint. It was devoted to the Fatherland when others, nearby, lose the way. Good and, in Russian, deep and gullible.
Cooking is his passion since childhood. And this is a great gift to us, because a man who owns 6 languages, sophisticated in the diplomatic etiquette, the owner of a thin aristocratic taste, who is unattainable without the nobility of the soul, took at cooking.
Recipert V.V. Pokhlebkin number 1.
Promised soup. In order to disappear even a very strong headache, with a 100% guarantee, you need to boil one and a half liters of water, omit there 20 peas of white pepper and a teaspoon of salt (without top). If sellers tell you that this pepper does not happen, do not believe them. Pepper peas should be boiled 20 minutes. Only then soup will work. Next, you need carp and mushrooms. While the pepper is boiled, the carp must be cleaned, rinse and put in a cold, acidified water. Let it still be.
Carefully put 2-3 mushrooms in boiling water. In front of it, shallow do it, if fresh. Displays in powder, if dry. Only white mushrooms are needed! It is categorically impossible to replace them with others. There will be a Russian taste, and soup does not work, the headache will not pass. Lower to one or two potatoes, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 2 bulbs and two tomatoes. Cut them too first.
After 10 minutes, put fish cut into four pieces, and then lower the spices: celery greens, dill, parsley and bay leaf. After 15 minutes, turn off the fire, close the bowler with a lid. Note, before that the soup was cooked without a lid! Let it be imagined for 2-3 minutes, and can be served. Waiting for headaches, especially strongest to try soup - not necessarily.
Recipert V.V. Pokhlebkin number 2.
Relevant in winter especially. Therapeutic milk, which can be used as a medicine for diseases of the ear, throat and nose, tasty medicine. Pour into the saucepan liter of milk, add a cooling water half a cup, half a teaspoon of badyana, a pinch of mint and 3-4 crushed black pepper peas. Put a saucepan into the oven. Focus on your oven. But, usually, half an hour is enough for milk to be fused. Try to prevent boiling. After 20 minutes, screw the fire and remove it for another 5-7 minutes. If you cook for pleasure, and not by illness, you can drink it with sugar. Too mix it with strong tea.
Recipert V.V. Pokhlebkin number 3.
If you have a decline for strength or somehow nemes, prepare fried fruit. You need to take dry fruits, fry - only on creamy or foam oil. Therefore, they need them with hot. In roasted fruits, you can add slightly water and cover the frying pan with a lid, hold on the heat before evaporation of water. The fruits sparkle and become similar in shape on fresh, but not to taste. This dish will help if someone from your loved ones recovering after severe illness. Well, and if sad.
If you want something like that, feel free to experiment. After reading the books V.V. Pokhlebkin, you will simply pull out to experiments. And experiment - the thing with depression is incompatible. And Pokhlebkin's books too.
You keep a unique book in your hands. It will become an indispensable adviser for everyone who wants to enrich their table with the most popular dishes, and also learn how to prepare not only at the usual and boring recipes, but with the knowledge of the cooking and even creatively.
The author of this wonderful book, William Vasilyevich Pokhlebkin, is no longer with us - he tragically died in March 2000. The murder of the writer has become a real shock for all Russia - after all, it is difficult to find a person who would not hear about wonderful culinary recipes Schlebkin or did not use his wise advice. Now gourmets left only his culinary books. This edition is an invaluable gift of the master fans of his talent, for all its theoretical and practical culinary works are collected in it.
Not everyone knows that V.V. Schlebkin by profession and education - an international historian, a specialist in foreign policy of the countries of Central and Northern Europe. In 1949, he graduated from MGIMO USSR Foreign Ministry, in 1956-1961 He was the editor-in-chief of the International Periodic Edition "Scandinavian Collection" (Tartu, Estonia), since 1962 collaborated with the magazine "Scandinavica" (London, Norwich), and in 1957-1967 For years he worked as a senior teacher of MGIMO and the highest diplomatic school Foreign Ministry of the USSR, the historical and philological faculties of Moscow State University.
It would seem that history and cooking are incomplete things. However, a talented person is always talented in many ways, in any case, the tremendous experience of the Pokhivkin-International, the basis of its famous books about national cuisines in the world.
Over the past three decades V.V. Pokhlebkin remained an unsurpassed specialist in the field of theory, history and practice of culinary art.
The book "Secrets of good cuisine", which opens our edition, was first published in 1979, in the Eureka series. This is a popular statement of the main issues of culinary practice, where the technology of all existing culinary processes is described by the language, their meaning and role in cooking are described for non-professional. She introduces the reader into the world of cooks, popularly talking about the meaning and features of the cook craft.
The book immediately became an unusual phenomenon, because readers were already disappointed in cookbooks, including a description of standard boring techniques and recipes. The "secrets of good cuisine" turned the beaten idea of \u200b\u200bcooking as an ordinary exclusively female lesson that does not require accurate knowledge of the theory. The book opens in front of any competent person to learn to work professionally, naturally with interested and conscientious attitude towards cooking work.
The book still enjoys unprecedented popularity, and not only in Russia. It is transferred to the national languages \u200b\u200bof the republics, where traditionally attached great importance to the preparation of delicious food and its quality. In 1982, she was published in Riga in Latvian, twice (1982 and 1987) published in Vilnius in Lithuanian, in 1990 - in Moldavian in Chisinau. And in just twenty years, this work has been thirteen editions.
"Entertaining cooking", continuing the "secrets of good cuisine", saw the light somewhat later, in 1983. This particular attention is paid to more prose, but an extremely important craft side of the cooking. The book tells about the types of foci (stoves, heating devices), on exposure different types Fire taste products, kitchen utensils and tools. "Entertaining cooking" was also translated into Lithuanian, a total of six editions withstand.
The books "Spices, flavors and food dyes" and "all about spices and seasonings", as the author considered, will help to make our culinary world with bright and colorful, complete taste and aroma. Note that the work of V.V. Pokhlebkin about spices received international fame and was published five times in Leipzig in German.
The book "National Kitchens of Our Peoples" was as popular, which included the recipes of the national dishes of the peoples of Russia and the near abroad, indicating the initial, historically established technologies of their preparation. It gives a pretty complete picture of the culinary skill of nations, ethnic groups with their, pronounced national cooking.
This research Went for ten years both in the archives and in the field, in various regions. Probably, so it caused such serious interest among professional cooks in many foreign countries And it was highly appreciated as a practical cookbook. At the initiative of foreign colleagues, the book was translated into Finnish, English, German, Croatian, Portuguese and Hungarian.
The continuation is the book "On foreign kitchens", which includes the main recipes of Chinese, Scottish and Finnish cuisine. The author's ethnographic approach to the culinary heritage of Nations has helped to restore, restore the overall picture of culinary creativity, freeing it from unnecessary layers, and separate dishes - from restaurant distortions allowed by ignorance or ignorance.
No less interesting continuation of "my kitchen" is "My menu". Here V.V. Pokhlebkin is divided by its own cook secrets. The book consists of a commented list of those dishes of world cooking, which the author especially loved and prepared for himself personally only into special, solemn moments.
Completes the collection of the famous "Culinary Dictionary" of Pokhlebkin, written in the late 80s. This book is designed to answer all topical issues and a professional, and amateur, including the range of international (French, Latin, Greek, German, Chinese and other) terms, concepts, dishes and methods of their preparation that have developed for the entire Millennium history of world culinary practice. The dictionary creates a complete picture of the world culinary artwhere quite decent place Consider our usual Russians, Ukrainian, Tatar and other national dishes. "Dictionary" gives brief description All mentioned (and not mentioned) in the book terms and products and significantly facilitates the use of publication.
Collection of works by V.V. Pokhlebkin on the issues of culinary skill unites in itself as purely practical material To explore the cooking and a variety of information on the history of the culinary affairs of Russia and other countries (Finland, Scotland, Scandinavian countries, China), so the publication is of interest for the widest range of readers - from experienced cooks to young owners.
William Vasilyevich himself said that his books are to help "acquire the skills of creating such food, such a meal, without which our life would be boring, insane, undecided and at the same time deprived of something, individual." Good luck to you!
Russian cuisine has long been widely fame worldwide. This manifests itself as in direct penetration into international restaurant cuisine, original Russian food products (caviar, red fish, sour cream, buckwheat cereals, rye flour, etc.) or some of the most famous dishes of the Russian National Menu (jelly, soup, oars, pancakes, Pies, etc.), and in the indirect influence of Russian culinary art in the kitchen of other nations.
Assortment of Russian dishes at the turn of the XIX and XX centuries. It became so diverse, and its influence and popularity in Europe is so great that they started talking about it with the same respect, as well as the famous French cuisine.
Russian national cuisine has passed an extremely long path of development, noted by several major stages, each of which left an indelible mark.
Old Russian cuisine, developed from the IX-centuries. and reached the greatest heyday in the XV-XVI centuries, although the formation of it and covers a huge historical period, is characterized by common features, in many respects preserved and dynam.
At the beginning of this period, a Russian bread from sour (yeast) rye test appeared - this unknown king on our table, without him, and now the Russian menu is unthinkable, - and all other essential types of Russian bread and flour products have arisen: Skike, Baranki, juits, pyshki, pancakes, pancakes, pies, etc. These products were preparing exclusively on the basis of sour dough - so characteristic of Russian cuisine throughout its historical Development. Addiction to the acidic, the kvass was reflected in the creation of Russian real kiseli - oatmeal, wheat and rye, which appeared long before modern. Mostly berry kissels.
A great place in the menu occupied a variety of casishers and cereals, which were considered originally ritual, solemn food.
All this bread, flour food diversified by the bowl of all fish, mushrooms, forest berries, vegetables, milk and very rarely meat.
In addition, the appearance of classical Russian beverages - all sorts of honey, kvass, shot down.
Already in early period The development of Russian cuisine was marked by a sharp separation of the Russian table for lean (vegetable-fish-mushroom) and a rapid (milky-egg-meat), which had a huge impact on her further development Up until the end of the XIX century. Artificial creation of the face between the rapid and lean table, the isolated of some products from others, the prevention of their mixing ultimately led to the creation of only some of the original dishes, and all the menu has suffered in general - it became simpler, simplified.
We can say that it is more lucky a night table: since most days a year - from 192 to 216 in different years, were considered to be launched (and these posts were respected very strictly), it was a natural desire to expand the range of the lean table. From here an abundance in Russian cuisine of fungal and fish dishes, a tendency to use various vegetable raw materials - grains (porridge), vegetables, forest berries Both herbs (nettle, sick, swan, etc.).
Moreover, such well-known with x in. Vegetables, like cabbage, turnip, radish, peas, cucumbers, were prepared and ate - be it raw, salty, steamy, boiled or baked - separately one from the other. Therefore, for example, salads and especially winegreets were never peculiar to Russian cuisine and appeared in Russia already in the XIX century. as borrowing from the West. But they were originally done mainly with one vegetable, giving the corresponding name to salad, - the salad is cucumber, lettuce salad, potato salad, etc., etc.
Each type of mushrooms - freight, rims, hassle, whites, smurches, pectoris (champignons), etc. - Soliili or cooked completely separately, which, by the way, is practiced and so -na. The same can be said about the fish that was used in boiled, sluggish, salty, baked and less frequently in fried form. In the literature we meet the juicy, "delicious" names of fish dishes: Sigovina, Tyamenina, Shchusina, Haltushina, Somovin, Lososina, Sturgeon, Sevorin, Beluzhina and others. And the ear could be both Okunevoy, and Yershova, and Namie, and sterling, etc.
Thus, the number of dishes by name was huge, but all of them in content a little differed one of the other. The taste diversity was achieved, firstly, the difference in thermal and cold processing, as well as the use of various oils, mainly vegetable (hemp, nut, poppy, olive and significantly later - sunflower), secondly, the use of spices. From the last, onions, garlic, horseradish, dill, and in very large quantities, as well as parsley, anise, coriander, bay leaf, black pepper and carnation, which appeared in Russia already in the X-XI centuries appeared in Rus. Later, in the XV - early XVI centuries, they were supplemented with ginger, cardamomon, cinnamon, Airh (Irn root) and Saffron.
In the initial period of the development of Russian cuisine, there is a tendency to use liquid hot dishes that received the general name "Hlebova". The greatest distribution acquires such types of hlobov, like soup, chowers based on vegetation raw materials, as well as various strokes, brews, chatters, outstands, and other varieties of flour soups.
As for meat and milk, these products were consumed relatively rarely, and their processing did not differ in difficulty. The meat, as a rule, cooked in sch) or casheans, milk saw raw, tomlenoe or skis. Milk products made cottage cheese and sour cream, and the production of cream and oil remained almost unknown for a long time, at least until the XV-XVI centuries. These products have rarely appeared, irregularly.
The next step in the development of Russian cuisine is the period from the middle of the XVI century. And until the end of the XVII century. At this time, not only the further development of variants of the lean and rapid table continues, but the differences between the kitchens of various classes and classes are especially sharply indicated.
The kitchen of a simple people starts with this time to simplify, the kitchen of the boyars, the nobility and especially nobility becomes more and more refined. She collects, unites and summarizes the experience of previous centuries in the field of Russian cooking, creates on the basis of its new, more complex variants of old dishes, and also borps and openly introduces a number of foreign dishes and culinary techniques in Russian cuisine.
Special attention is drawn to a rapid festive table of that time. Along with the familiar already straight and boiled meat, the honorable place on the table is commemorated with a ridicule (that is, cooked on the spit) and roasted meat, poultry and game. The types of meat processing are increasingly differentiated. So, the beef is mainly for the preparation of the saltinone and for boiling (digestive female); From pork make ham for long-term storage or use it as fresh or milk pigly in a fried and stewed form, and only meat, lean pork is appreciated in Russia; Finally, lamb, poultry and game are used mainly for roast and only in part (lamb) for extinguishing.
In the XVII century All the main types of Russian soups are finalized, while unknown persons appear in medieval Rus Calia, Pirimki, Solyanka, bridins.
Enriched and lean table for nobility. A prominent place on it is beginning to occupy Bollyt, a black caviar, which ate not only as a catering, but also boiled in vinegar or poppy milk.
On cooking XVII century. Eastern and primarily Tatar cuisine has a strong influence, which is associated with joining in the second half of the XVI century. To the Russian state of the Astrakhan and Kazan Khanation, Bashkiria and Siberia. It was during this period that a fresh dough dishes (noodles, dumplings) are falling into Russian cuisine, such products, both raisins, uryuk, fig (figs), as well as lemons and tea, the use of which from it becomes traditional in Russia. Thus, the sweet table is significantly replenished.
Next to Gingerbreads, known in Russia before the adoption of Christianity, one could see a variety of rugs, sweet pies, lollipops, candies, numerous jams, and not only of berries, but also from some vegetables (carrots with honey and ginger, radish in a molate) . In the second half of the XVII century. The reed sugar (1) began to bring to Russia, from which candles and snacks, sloant, delicacies, fruits, etc. were cooked together with spices, and all these sweet meals were mainly the privilege of nobility (2).
- (1) The first refinery was founded by the merchant Vestov in Moscow, early XVIII in. He was allowed by the attributes of cane raw materials duty free. Sugar plants on the basis of beet raw materials were created only at the end of the XVIII - early XIX centuries. (The first plant is in the village of Alyabyev, Tula province).
(2) In the menu of the Patriarch dinner in 1671, sugar, lollipops already specified.
At the same time, the desire to decorate dishes. Food products are built by palaces, fantastic animals of giant sizes. Court dinners turn into a pompous, lush ritual, which is ongoing 6-8 h - from two hours to ten in the evening, - and include almost a dozen changes, each of which consists of a whole series (sometimes two tens) dishes of the same name, for example Of the ten sorts of fried ditch or salted fish, out of a dozen species of pancakes or pies (3).
- (3) The procedure for feeding dishes for a rich festive table, consisting of 6-8 changes, was finally developed in the second half of the XVIII century. However, one dish began to serve in each change. This order was preserved until the 60-70s of the XIX W.:
1) hot (soup, soup, ear);
2) Cold (Okroshka, Botchunya, Jelly, Flower Fish, Solonin);
3) roast (meat, bird);
4) tel (boiled or roasted hot fish);
5) Pies (unsweetened), Culebyak;
6) porridge (sometimes sch);
7) Cupcake (sweet pies, pies);
8) snacks.
Old Russian cuisine turned out to be alien and all sorts of casseroles and puddings. The desire to prepare a dish from a whole large piece, and ideally from an animal or plants remained up to the XVIII century. An exception seemed to be a filling in pies, in whole animals and a bird, and in their parts - Sichuhhuh, a seller. However, in most cases it was, so to speak, ready-made stuffing, crushed by nature itself - grain (porridge), berries, mushrooms (they are also not cut). Fish for filling only looked, but not crushed. And only much later - at the end of the XVIII century. And especially in the XIX century. - already under the influence of Western European cuisine, some stuffing began to grind specially.
The next stage in the development of Russian cuisine occurs at the turn of the XVII and XVIII centuries. And lasts a little more than century - until the first decade of the XIX century. At this time, there is a radical sowing of kitchen of mainstream classes and kitchens of a simple people. If in the XVII century. The kitchen of dominant classes still kept national character And her difference from folk cuisine was expressed only in the fact that in quality, abundance and assortment of products and dishes she sharply exceeded the folk cuisine, then in the XVIII century. The kitchen of dominant classes gradually began to lose Russian national character.
Starting from Petrovsky times, Russian know and the rest of the nobility borrow and introduce Western European culinary traditions. Rich Velmazbes attending Western Europe, bring with you foreign chefs. Initially, it was mostly Dutch and German, especially Saxon and Austrian, then Swedish and mostly French. From the middle of the XVIII century. Foreign cooks were discharged so regularly that soon they had almost completely supplanted cooking cooks and serfs at the Higher Nobility.
One of the new customs that appeared at this time should be considered the use of snacks as an independent dish. German sandwiches, French and Dutch cheeses who came from the West and Dotole, were combined with old Russian dishes - Cold Solonina, jelly, ham, buoyanin, as well as with caviar, Balyk and another inquiry red fish in a single feed or even in special reception Food - breakfast.
New alcoholic beverages - Ratafi and Erofiechi appeared. Since the 70s of the XVIII century, when the tea has become becoming increasingly important, sweet cakes, pies and sloant, which were combined with tea in a separate flow and are confined to 5 o'clock in the evening and are confined to 5 o'clock in the society.
Only in the first half of the XIX century, after Patriotic War 1812, in connection with the general lift of patriotism in the country and the struggle of Slavophilic circles with foreign influence, the interest in the national Russian cuisine begins to revive the interest in the advanced representatives of the nobility. However, when in 1816, the Tula landowner V. A. Levshin tried to draw up the first Russian cookbook, he was forced to state that "information about Russian dishes was almost completely destroyed" and therefore "it is impossible to introduce a complete description of the Russian cook and should only be time In the fact that you can still collect from the remaining in mind, because the history of the Russian cook has never been predicted by the description "(4). As a result, the collected by V. A. Leftshin on the memory of the description of Russian cuisine dishes were not only not accurate in their recipe, but in their range, they did not reflect the entire actual wealth of the Russian national table dishes.
- (4) Levshin V. A. Russian cook. M., 1816.
In Russia, during this period, a number of French chefs operate, radically reforming Russian cuisine of the dominant classes. The first French cook, left the mark in the reform of Russian cuisine, was Marie-Antoine Karem - one of the first and few explorers 'chefs, scientists' chefs. Before arriving in Russia at the invitation of Prince P. I. Bagration, Karem was a cook of the English prince-regent (future king George IV), the Duke of Württemberg, Rothschild, Talleyran. He was vividly interested in kitchens of various nations. During the short stay in Russia, Karem familiarized himself in detail with Russian cuisine, appreciated her advantages and outlined the way to liberate her from the apparent one.
The successors of Karem in Russia continued to reform them. This reform touched, firstly, the procedure for filing dishes to the table. Adopted in the XVIII century. The "French" feed system, when all the dishes were exhibited on the table at the same time, was replaced by an old Russian feeding method, when one dish replaced the other. At the same time, the number of changes was reduced to 4-5 and this sequence was introduced in the dinner serving, in which heavy dishes were alternating with light and exciting appetite. In addition, the table was no longer served as a whole meat or a bird, before serving, they began to cut them on the table. With such a system, decorating dishes as an endoral lost any meaning.
The reformers also performed the replacement of dishes from the crowded and rubbed products that took a large place in the kitchen of dominant classes in the XVIII - early XIX centuries., Dishes from natural, more characteristic Russian food products. So there were all sorts of chops (lamb and pork) from a whole piece of meat with a bone, natural bifhctecs, cops, lantheets, entrecotes, escalls.
At the same time, the efforts of cooking were aimed at eliminating the heavily and uncomfortableness of some dishes. So, in the recipes, they discarded the flour darling making them with tasteless, which remained only due to tradition, and not common sense, began to widely use potatoes in the garnish, which appeared in Russia in the 70s of the XVIII century.
For Russian pirogors, they suggested using a gentle puff pastry from wheat flour instead of rye sour. They also introduced a unprofitable way to prepare the test on pressed yeast, which we use now, thanks to which the acidic dough, for the preparation of which was previously required 10-12 hours, began to sleep in 2 hours.
Fit French cooks attention and snacks that have become one of the specific features of the Russian table. If in the XVIII century. prevailed german form Feed snacks - sandwiches, then in the XIX century. It began to serve snacks on a special table, each view of a special dish, beautifully drawing up them, and thus expanded them to the range, choosing a number of old Russian Russians not only meat and fish, but also mushroom and vegetable sauer dishes that their abundance And the diversity from now on did not cease to be a permanent subject of surprise of foreigners.
Finally, the French school introduced combining products (winegirls, salads, side dishes) and accurate dosages in recipes dishes, not taken earlier in Russian cuisine, and familiarized Russian cuisine with the views of Western European kitchen appliances.
IN late XIX. in. On the change of the Russian oven and specially adapted to its thermal regime of pots and pig-iron came the plate with its oven, saucepans, casseroles, etc. Instead of Sita and the sieve began to use fluttering, snipers, meat grinders, etc.
An important contribution of French culinary in the development of Russian cuisine was that they prepared a whole pleiad of brilliant Russian chefs. Their students were Mikhail and Gerasim Stepanov, Dobrovolsky, V. Bestuzhev, I. Radetsky, P. Grigoriev, I. Antonov, 3. Eremeev, N. Sevev, P. Vikentyev and others who supported and distributed the best traditions of Russian cuisine on The length of the XIX century. Of these, G. Stepanov and I. Radetsky were not only outstanding practices, but also left the extensive leadership of Russian cooking.
In parallel with this process of updating the kitchen of the dominant classes, carried out, so to speak, the "top" and concentrated in the noble clubs and restaurants of St. Petersburg and Moscow, the other process was and the collecting, restoration and development of forgotten Russian recipes, spontaneously flowing in the province, in the landlord Manades up to the 70s of the XIX century. The source for this was gathering was a folk cuisine, in the development of which a huge number of nameless and unknown, but talented serfs took part.
By the last third of the XIX century. Russian cuisine of dominant classes thanks to a unique assortment of dishes, their exquisite and thin taste began to hold one of the leading places in Europe along with French cuisine.
At the same time it is necessary to emphasize that, despite all changes, bringing and foreign influences its main specific traits Preserved and remained to it inherent to the present, as they resistant held in folk cuisine. These main features of Russian cuisine and the Russian national table can be defined as follows: abundance of the diversity of the diner table, the love of bread, pancakes, pies, porridge, the originality of the first liquid cold and hot dishes, a variety of fish and mushroom table, wide use of pickles from Vegetables and mushrooms, abundance of a festive and sweet table with its jams, cookies, gingerbread, horses, etc.
Some features of Russian cuisine should be said more. Even at the end of the XVIII century. Russian historian I. Bolitin noted the characteristic features of the Russian table, including not only the prosperity. In rural areas, four pores of food were adopted, and in the summer at the work day - five: breakfast, or intercept, afternooner, previously dinner, or even at noon, lunch, dinner and bubbles.
These wisdom, adopted in the Central and Northern Russia, remained in South, but with other names. There, in 6-7 h in the morning, they were sang, in 11-12 she dinned, at 14-15 were afraid, in 18-19 insulated, and in 22- 23 thousands. With the development of capitalism, the working person in the cities began at the beginning of three, and then only twice a day: there were breakfasts with dawn, dinner or dinner, come home. At work, only afraid, i.e., climbed cold food. Gradually, the dinner began to be called any complete food, a full table with hot vapors, sometimes no matter from time to time.
Bread played a big role in the Russian table. Other or other first liquid dishes in the village were usually eaten from shelter to a kilogram of black rye bread. White bread, wheat, was actually not common in Russia until the beginning of the XX century. His ate occasionally and mostly the prosperous layers of the population in the cities, and in the people they looked at him as a festive meal. Therefore, the white bread, called in a number of countries in a bun (5), was baked in bakeries like black, but in special bakery and sweetened slightly. The local species of white bread were Moscow sails and Kalachi, Smolensk pretzels, Valdai Baranki, etc. Black bread differed not at the place of manufacture, but only in the family of baking and the variety of flour - pekely, custard, subholdy, wedding, etc.
- (5) "Bulk" - from french word. Boule, which means "round like a ball." Initially, white bread was baked only French and German bakers - bobbins.
The first liquid dishes were kept unchanged in Russian cuisine, called from the end of the XVIII century. soups. Soups always played a dominant role in the Russian table. No wonder the spoon was the main cutlery. She appeared with us earlier forks for almost 400 years. "Wilko, that fishing, and a falcon, which is a non-child," said the People's Proverb.
The range of national Russian soup, paste, stubbles, ears, rasiders, Soliask, Botvini, Okrozhek, pronounced, continued to be replenished in the XVIII-XX centuries. Different types of Western European soups like broths, puree soups, various filling soups with meat and croups, which were well leaving thanks to the love of the Russian people to hot liquid Verev.
In the same way, they received a place on the modern Russian table and many soups of the peoples of our country, for example, Ukrainian borscht and kulesh, Belarusian beams and soups with dumplings. Many soups, especially vegetable and vegetable-cereal, were obtained from a diluted cask-sleeper (i.e., caskets with vegetable frighting) or are fruits of restaurant cuisine. However, not they, despite their diversity, and the old, the original Russian soups like a severity and the ear define so far the originality of the Russian table.
To lesser extent than soups, retained its original value in the Russian table. Fish dishes. Some classic Russian fish dishes seemed to be separated from use. Meanwhile, they are tasty, simple cooking. They can be prepared from sea fish, which, by the way, used in Russian cuisine in the old days, especially in Northern Russia, in Russian Pomorie. Residents of these areas of the districts have long been familiar in those days have been familiar to the cod, halight, pike, Moire, Navahar. "Unfortunate - worse Berekleba," the pomor's saying said.
Known in Russian cuisine Fish steam, boiled, vehicle, i.e., made in a special way from one fillet, without bones, fried, chieny (filled with porridge or mushroom stuffing), stew, filling, baked in scales, baked on a pan in sour cream , Corolina (salty), dried and dried (jerk). In the Pechora and Perm Territory, fish, in addition, quasili (sour fish), and in Western Siberia, stricken - Ice cream raw fish. Unpropered was only a way to smoke fish, which was developed mainly only in the last 70-20 years, i.e. from the beginning of the XX century.
Characteristic of the old Russian cuisine was the widespread use of spices in a rather large assortment. However, the decline in the role of fish, mushroom dishes and dice dishes, as well as the introduction of a row of German cuisine in the menu, has affected the reduction of the rustles used in Russian cuisine.
In addition, many spices are due to the high cost, as well as vinegar and salt, since the XVII century. The people began to use re in the process of cooking, and put on the table and use already during meals depending on the desire of each. This custom gave an occasion subsequently to argue that Russian cuisine allegedly did not use spices. At the same time, referred to the well-known essay of Kotoshikhin about Russia in the XVII century, where he wrote: "We are customs cooking without seasonally, without peppers and inbiru, salted and strain." Meanwhile, the same city of Kotoshin explained: "And how the network will begin and in which there is little vinegar and salt and peppers, and in those that are added on the table" (6).
- (6) Kotoshin G. About Russia in the reign of Alexei Mikhailovich. Spb. 1840.
Finally, in conclusion, it is necessary to dwell on some technological processes inherent in Russian cuisine.
On a large segment of the development of the Russian national cuisine, the cooking process was reduced to cooking or baking products in a Russian oven, and these operations were carried out necessarily separately. What was intended for cooking was drunk from the beginning to the end, what was intended for cookies, only baked. Thus, the people's Russian cuisine did not know what combined or even different, combined or double thermal processing.
The heat treatment of food was heated by the warmth of the Russian oven, strong or weak, three degrees - "to breads", "after breads", "on the free spirit", but always contactless with fire and or with a constant temperature-holding temperature, or With a falling, decreasing temperature, when the furnace gradually cooled, but never with an increasing temperature, as with pouring. Therefore, the Kushan was always not even boiled, but rather tormented or semi-thousand-semi-sustained, which was acquired by a very special taste. No wonder, many dishes of old Russian cuisine do not make a proper impression when they are prepared in different temperature conditions.
Does this mean that you need to restore the Russian oven to get in modern conditions Real dishes of Russian cuisine? There is no way. Instead, it is enough to imitate the incident temperature generated by it. Such imitation in modern conditions is possible.
However, we should not forget that the Russian oven provided not only a positive, but to a certain extent and bad influence - She did not stimulate the production of rational technological techniques.
The introduction of nylinders led to the need to borrow a number of new technological techniques and with them dishes of Western European cuisine, as well as to the reform of the dishes of old Russian cuisine, their refining and development, adaptation to new technology. This direction turned out to be fruitful. It helped save from oblivion the many dishes of Russian cuisine.
Speaking of Russian cuisine, we still emphasized her features and characteristic features, considered the history of its development and its content as a whole. Meanwhile, pronounced regional differences in it should be kept in mind, which are mainly explained by the diversity natural zones and associated with this nobility of plant and animal products, various influence of neighboring peoples, as well as the variegated social structure of the population in the past.
That is why Muscovites and Pomor's kitchens, Cossacks of Don and Siberians are very different. While in the north they eat venison, fresh and salty seaside fish, rye pies, dejni with cottage cheese and a lot of mushrooms, on Don fry and extinguished steppe game, eat a lot of fruits and vegetables, drink vine wine and prepare pies with chicken. If the food of the pompers is similar to the Scandinavian, Finnish, Karelian and Loparovskaya (Sami), the Turkish, Nogai cuisine, and the Russian population in the Urals or Siberia, follows the Russian population in the Urals or to Siberian traditions, should have a noticeable influence.
Regional features of a different plan have long been inherent in the kitchen of old Russian regions of Central Russia. The features of these are still due to medieval rivalry between Novgorod and Pskov, Tver and Moscow, Vladimir and Yaroslavl, Kaluga and Smolensk, Ryazan and Nizhny Novgorod. And they manifested in the area of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen not in major misatios, such as differences in cooking technology or available in each area of \u200b\u200btheir dishes, as it was, for example, in Siberia and in the Urals, and in differences just between the same dishes in differences Differences are often even insignificant, but nevertheless pretty persistent.
At least such common Russian dishes are used as ear, pancakes, pies, cereals and gingerbread: they were made throughout European Russia, but in each area there were their favorite views of these dishes, their small differences in their recipe, their appearance , your feeds to the table, etc.
This, if you can say, "small regional" we are obliged to occur, develop and existence so far, for example, different species Gingerbread - Tula, Vyazemsky, Voronezh, Gorodetsky, Moscow, etc.
Regional differences, both large and small, naturally, even more enriched Russian cuisine, diversified it. And at the same time, they all did not change its main nature, because in each particular case, the general features noted above, which, in aggregate, distinguish national Russian cuisine throughout Russia from Baltic to the Pacific Ocean are drawn.
Current page: 1 (A total of 157 pages)
Big encyclopedia of culinary art.
All recipes V.V. Pokhlebkin
From the author's publishing house
You keep a unique book in your hands. It will become an indispensable adviser for everyone who wants to enrich their table with the most popular dishes, and also learn how to prepare not only at the usual and boring recipes, but with the knowledge of the cooking and even creatively.
The author of this wonderful book, William Vasilyevich Pokhlebkin, is no longer with us - he tragically died in March 2000. The murder of the writer has become a real shock for all Russia - after all, it is difficult to find a person who would not hear about wonderful culinary recipes of Pokhlebkin or did not use it wise advice. Now the gourmets left only his culinary books. This edition is an invaluable gift of the master fans of his talent, for all its theoretical and practical culinary works are collected in it.
Not everyone knows that V.V. Schlebkin by profession and education - an international historian, a specialist in foreign policy of the countries of Central and Northern Europe. In 1949, he graduated from MGIMO USSR Foreign Ministry, in 1956-1961 He was the editor-in-chief of the International Periodic Edition "Scandinavian Collection" (Tartu, Estonia), since 1962 collaborated with the magazine "Scandinavica" (London, Norwich), and in 1957-1967 For years he worked as a senior teacher of MGIMO and the highest diplomatic school Foreign Ministry of the USSR, the historical and philological faculties of Moscow State University.
It would seem that history and cooking are incomplete things. However, a talented person is always talented in many ways, in any case, the tremendous experience of the Pokhivkin-International, the basis of its famous books about national cuisines in the world.
Over the past three decades V.V. Pokhlebkin remained an unsurpassed specialist in the field of theory, history and practice of culinary art.
The book "Secrets of good cuisine", which opens our edition, was first published in 1979, in the Eureka series. This is a popular statement of the main issues of culinary practice, where the technology of all existing culinary processes is described by the language, their meaning and role in cooking are described for non-professional. She introduces the reader into the world of cooks, popularly talking about the meaning and features of the cook craft.
The book immediately became an unusual phenomenon, because readers were already disappointed in cookbooks, including a description of standard boring techniques and recipes. The "secrets of good cuisine" turned the beaten idea of \u200b\u200bcooking as an ordinary exclusively female lesson that does not require accurate knowledge of the theory. The book opens in front of any competent person to learn to work professionally, naturally with interested and conscientious attitude towards cooking work.
The book still enjoys unprecedented popularity, and not only in Russia. It is transferred to the national languages \u200b\u200bof the republics, where traditionally attached great importance to the preparation of delicious food and its quality. In 1982, she was published in Riga in Latvian, twice (1982 and 1987) published in Vilnius in Lithuanian, in 1990 - in Moldavian in Chisinau. And in just twenty years, this work has been thirteen editions.
"Entertaining cooking", continuing the "secrets of good cuisine", saw the light somewhat later, in 1983. This particular attention is paid to more prose, but an extremely important craft side of the cooking. The book tells about the types of foci (stoves, heating devices), on the effects of different types of fire for the taste of products, about kitchen utensils and tools. "Entertaining cooking" was also translated into Lithuanian, a total of six editions withstand.
The books "Spices, flavors and food dyes" and "all about spices and seasonings", as the author considered, will help to make our culinary world with bright and colorful, complete taste and aroma. Note that the work of V.V. Pokhlebkin about spices received international fame and was published five times in Leipzig in German.
The book "National Kitchens of Our Peoples" was as popular, which included the recipes of the national dishes of the peoples of Russia and the near abroad, indicating the initial, historically established technologies of their preparation. It gives a pretty complete picture of the culinary skill of nations, ethnic groups with their, pronounced national cooking.
This research work was carried out for ten years both in the archives and on the ground, in various regions. Probably, so it caused such serious interest among professional cooks in many foreign countries and was highly appreciated by them as a practical cookbook. At the initiative of foreign colleagues, the book was translated into Finnish, English, German, Croatian, Portuguese and Hungarian.
The continuation is the book "On foreign kitchens", which includes the main recipes of Chinese, Scottish and Finnish cuisine. The author's ethnographic approach to the culinary heritage of Nations has helped to restore, restore the overall picture of culinary creativity, freeing it from unnecessary layers, and separate dishes - from restaurant distortions allowed by ignorance or ignorance.
No less interesting continuation of "my kitchen" is "My menu". Here V.V. Pokhlebkin is divided by its own cook secrets. The book consists of a commented list of those dishes of world cooking, which the author especially loved and prepared for himself personally only into special, solemn moments.
Completes the collection of the famous "Culinary Dictionary" of Pokhlebkin, written in the late 80s. This book is designed to answer all topical issues and a professional, and amateur, including the range of international (French, Latin, Greek, German, Chinese and other) terms, concepts, dishes and methods of their preparation that have developed for the entire Millennium history of world culinary practice. The dictionary creates a complete picture of world culinary arts, where Russian, Ukrainian, Tatar and other national dishes are quite a worthy place. The "Dictionary" gives a brief description of all mentioned (and not mentioned) in the book terms and products and significantly facilitates the use of publication.
Collection of works by V.V. Pokhlebkin on the issues of culinary skill unites both purely practical material to study the cooking and a variety of information on the history of the culinary affairs of Russia and other countries (Finland, Scotland, Scandinavian countries, China), so the publication is of interest for the widest range of readers - From experienced cooks to young owners.
William Vasilyevich himself said that his books are to help "acquire the skills of creating such food, such a meal, without which our life would be boring, insane, undecided and at the same time deprived of something, individual." Good luck to you!
Secrets of good cuisine
Chapter 1. Serious, explaining: Who is open to the door to the cook craft and why this craft is complex, hard art
Why are so many young people do not have the slightest desire to cook food: neither at work (be the cook), nor at home, for yourself? The reasons are made different, but they, essentially, are reduced to one - to the reluctance to deal with what, in fact, you have no idea. For one cuisine, there is a very stressful occupation, for the other - too prose, for the third - tedious and heavy, for the fourth - useless spending time, for the fifth - the trifling, which has nothing to study. But none of these five knows what the art and the sacrament of cooking, which laws are controlled by cooking and what should be a real cook.
When set to a geographical expedition, young people set a question: Do you know how to cook yourself yourself? Many answered the affirmative. And when they were asked to clarify what they were able to, it turned out: boil the water, boil the vermicelli, fry sausages, warm the canned food, weld the soup of concentrates. And the most striking - none of them joked. They sincerely believed that this was the ability to prepare. In confirmation, they referred to the fact that both at home, in ordinary, not walking conditions, they prepare exclusively from ... ready-made semi-finished products. And what else? For this, of course, no knowledge is needed, and even more so talents. But the results of such preparation are inflated and tasteless.
Meanwhile, to occupy a truly high cooking, as well as for any real case, and even more so for this art, you need a vocation, talent and at least giftedness.
True, our daily experience seems to dissuade us in this. Someone will even smile, after reading that the cook should be talented for the cook. We are clear and next to us see how the cooks of ordinary canteens, the cafe is quite cleverly "pushed" those or other duty dishes, not at all experiencing any "flour of creativity." The fact is that the profession of the cook now has become so mass that sometimes without thinking about this sphere. And what to be able to be there? I fell asleep the cereal, poured water - and Vari porridge, watches only so as not to burn. That's all. And the soup is even easier: there is only frowning everything that is indicated in the layout, and do not even follow - do not foggle. With this approach, those tasteless, duty dishes, having the same smell everywhere - from Brest to Vladivostok.
Of course, the culinary gifted people on all the canteens are simply not enough, just as hundreds of thousands of artists and musicians can be. Talent is still rarity. But there is another reason why culinary talents are even much smaller than musical. Usually, musical gifts manifests itself very early and, most importantly, immediately becomes noticeable to those surrounding. And therefore it almost never can remain unnoticed. Only purely unfavorable conditions are able to lead to the fact that a musically gifted person will not go on his beloved path. He himself, in any case, will feel that music is his vocation.
Other business culinary giftedness. She, as a rule, is difficult to reveal, especially in a man. And in a woman, she is even more commonly noticed by surrounding, because it is regarded as something of granted. Many potentially talented cooking, as a rule, serve as anything: sellers, engineers, cashiers, accountants, actors, photographers, scientists, and cooking time, not suspecting that this is not a random leaning, but a serious calling, and sometimes Intentionally hiding this secret passion from a feeling of false modesty or false shame.
It is quite clear that others know such potential culinary talents, and if they learn later, after a few decades, when it's too late to learn to the cook, for by this time he has already become either an agronomist or a driver or a writer and his talent Perceived at best of the fad, and sometimes as an inappropriate killing.
Why does it happen? One of the main reasons is the continuity of the profession of the cook for the last, say, 80-100 years. If in XVII XVIII centuries- early XIX century this profession in most european countries It was associated with a high public situation, if at that time the names of the best cooks knew the whole country and they were entered, for example in France, in Annala History, then in the last century it became a massive, ordinary. That is why bright talents in this area do not seek to show themselves, and the surrounding often even consciously suppress such aspirations.
Another reason is the lack of early training of a culinary specialty - also prevents the young talent to understand what it pulls it.
I will give such a real, unreasonable example. One boy from very early age, about four to five years, often instead of playing with peers on the street with great pleasure stayed at home in the kitchen. Here, too, there was a kind of game: to give my mother a spoon, a halter, bring salt, collect the husk from Luke - all these small orders were real and at the same time look like a game. When the child stuck too long in the kitchen, shouted on him that he was confused under his feet, and then he just sat on the chair in the corner and patiently watched adults. It was also interesting. Actions changed all the time: it was cleaning the potatoes, then cutting parsley, then rice washing, cut meat or fish. Everything was different in color, form, processing and much more entertaining than the same wheel riding or the same games in the lapto yes in hide and seek. But it was more interesting, how delicious lunch was obtained from these raw products.
One day, the boy went with a dad to the holiday home and there she accidentally got into a large kitchen, where huge plates, a lot of brilliant saucepan and scenery of different sizes, gigantic boilers have impressed the factory. This impression was intensified from the presence of several chefs in white shape and high cook caps. They wrapped in potato mountains, carrots, onions, in whole carcass, whipped whole buckets of eggs and prepared dozens of hundreds of meat pots, jelly barrels, cream mountains. But the most amazing thing was the presence of children here, dressed, like a cook, in all the white who had their caps. They promptly again from the wall cabinets with dishes and kitchen equipment to the plates, where the cook worked, giving salontams various orders. These children, it turns out, was allowed to participate in the game of adults, and this game was called work.
When the boy began to go to school, he had no time to sit in the kitchen. Appeared over the years and other interests: school mugs, museums, theaters, and most importantly, the book, the reading of which was absorbed by the lion's share and opened his eyes on big world, on distant countries, peoples, for past times.
Interest in the kitchen disappeared, or rather, it seemed, it simply disappeared along with other interests of early childhood: toys, candy, sledding. He was simply forgotten by the mass of other, more important practices.
True, already being a teenager, when a free minute was issued, the boy walked into the kitchen, so that it would be not enough to look, will it soon be lunch, and sometimes on an old habit, it was lingering to see a more meaningful look that and how preparing. But such visits, if they started to repeat too often, caused in adults perplexity, irritation and even condemnation. With the appearance of a young man in the kitchen, random or in the case (he went behind salt, spoon, etc.), ridicule immediately: "Well, you, the kitchen commissioner, march from here!" Street remained, the courtyard, where the teenage peers had already started smoking in secret. It was a "male occupation."
But the boy did not want to smoke with the guys, he never learned how to smoke. By the way, the real grocery, culinary, confectioner, for which cooking food is really a call, will never smoke. This is excluded. It is impossible to understand the simplices of taste and smell of products, products and dishes, without having an excellent sense of smell and developed, sophisticated taste. Smoking completely knocks off both. Therefore, the smoking cook is either a misunderstanding, or a mockery over common sense. And we are not so rare, taking a person to work in catering, Interested in anywhere, only not that he smokes if he drinks, and do not refuse him from the ground on the grounds that he is a smoker or drunkard. Although it would be the most fair refusal. The cook or confectioner must have a sensitive taste or temporarily, nor the more chronically not to have biddows.
What does this international culinary term mean? Bridget, or an impuration, comes from the old Slavonic word "Bridk" - rough, raw, roughly or Latin "Asper" - grungy, rough, stitching. The word is an older and existed for a thousand years - from IX to the beginning of the 20th century. Now it completely disappeared not only from the domestic language, but even from dictionaries. It, for example, is not in the modern regulatory spelling dictionary of the Russian language, but it was widely used in the XI-XVII centuries, when it was bitter, damage, the absence of any taste of food, and also used in a figurative sense in situations not related to food or Cook business. So, in the old days they spoke about the "bridality of the soul", i.e. About worn, silence and even the luttyness of man.
Currently, as a narrow-related word of the cook language, the term "bridality" has two meanings:
1. The complete absence of a culinary taste in one or another face is equivalent to the absence of hearing at the musician. Such persons should not be allowed to work with cooking.
To avoid penetration on Wednesday of cooks and confectioners of persons with bridality and actually incapable of this profession, at least they had a personal desire to deal with it, before the candidates for cook students always held a special check in bridality, and only after that a question was resolved To admit them to the rest of the exams by profession.
2. Temporary loss or distortion of taste from a cook or confectioner, similar to the temporary voice loss at the singer. This is the so-called functional bridality.
Such bridality occurs as a result of overwork, excitement, diseases of the internal secretion or the oral burn after trying too hot food or beverages.
Unfortunately, the bridality, which has always been considered one of the most severe professional diseases of cooks, today it often remains outside the attention of not only administrators, doctors, but sometimes the chefs themselves.
To prevent the bridality and keep the freshness of the taste of the taste throughout the entire cook day, various measures have been taken. First, a system for testing dishes in a certain sequence was developed. Secondly, a cook for a working day continuously from time to time was to rinse the oral cavity by various refreshing (mainly fruit or vegetable) compositions or key water. Thirdly, already in the XVIII century, a procedure was established, in which the cook had the right to eat only after breakfast and lunch were prepared, that is, immediately before leaving lunch to the table, not earlier than 12 hours of the day. A reminder of this order still left the opening time of restaurants, dedicated to 11-12 hours.
Due to all these reasons, the cook profession was considered severe, difficult, exhausting, which sharply disperse with our present presentation, drawing the work of the chef as some kind of cheese in oil.
In confectionery business, the functional bridality occurs quite often, but lasts usually for a short time - 2-3 hours. This is the result of a high temperature in confectionery shops (especially where the cookies are made) and air saturation with a wrestling smell. Confectionery bridality usually passes, if you drink strong hot savory tea or swallow whipped raw eggs with ice.
Now we know what bridality is, and we can continue our story about the boy. He became already young man and was called up to the army. Here, he met the soldier's meal on the first day. He appreciated her, eating a portion without a residue. Food seemed simple, but appetizing. She was different from home meal, but at the same time was not like the Table. She was not diverse. But did not come. Only many years later, even decades, he learned that his assessment was true. Soldier's cuisine has its own rules and traditions, sharply distinguish it from civilian tables and bringing together with homemade kitchen as a selection of the menu and technology. At the same time, some dishes of soldier cuisine receive that classic taste that is not always and not everyone can get at home. Such, for example, porridge. In the army, they are brewing a special cook - Cook, who stuck, what is called, on this hand. In addition, porridges are grouped there in thick cast iron boilers smeared in the oven, and therefore come out excellent if they look at an experienced eye.
At the very first outfit, it was possible to make sure of the kitchen. True, labor at army cuisine and in that military time was deprived of all romanticism. At night, when everyone slept, the outfit performed heavy, exhaustive, unattractive work: most manually cleaned the endless piles of potatoes - hundreds of kilograms, tons. Other soaps and scrapers boilers: shift on the eve Nestilized for cooking porridge. Chapel was formed: semicircuit, semi-chact thoughts on the walls of the boiler, which had to be considered without a trace. But it is impossible to scribe: scratches on the walls of the boiler, the violation of the seats would lead to the fact that the porridge would warm up again, and regardless of whether they would follow it this time or not. That is why the cook took on the cleaning of the boiler the most intelligent and most conscientious guys, adding for loyalty that they will receive two outfits out of turn for each scratch on the boiler.
Obsolete boiler as new. Porridge came out wonderful, although everything is terribly tired. After all, the boiler had two people who climbed into it and, bent into three deaths, cleaned a centimeter for a centimeter as the restorers painting.
Varka soup was unusual. There was one interesting detail here. Each fighter was supposed to have one laurel leaves, and two buckets of dry leaves took place on the battalion. If they are downloaded even in a large boiler, they will hindle it: after all, the sheet is not boosted, but it becomes a little more as opposed to other products. Two buckets of hard leaves or climb the "cap" above the surface of the soup, or would make not add to the water boiler, do not carry carrots and potatoes. Therefore, the cooks usually violated the layout at this point. They either put in the soup of the entire bag of laurel sheet, that is, 15-20 times less than the norm, or did not put it at all, believing that non-idle laurels - the case of a trifle, or finally took a laurel from the warehouse, but spent her for other necessary.
Here the cook turned out to be a man of another character. When the soup was readily left for 10 minutes and the soup was enough, he fell asleep a bay leaf in a free two-dimensional kitlik with boiling water and after 5-7 minutes, from there, the resulting fragrant decoction from there, poured him into the soup. But most of all the cook surprised newcomers by the fact that when dinner had ate, he did not immediately eat, but only trying on a spoonful of each other dishes, made sure that everything was cooked delicious. He dares a little dried fruit without sugar and drank this decoction along with tea. Only after the entire battalion has gone, the cook ate full lunch.
Just many years later in one of the classic french books According to cooking, it was possible to read that this should be the behavior of a professional culinary school.
Apparently, the battalion chef belonged to the cooks just such a category. It also said that he prepared a variety of dishes, and in the next part there were constantly two to three duty dishes. The layout, the type of products and their number, the norms were in both parts the same and came from the same warehouse.
So, the variety of finished dishes, the difference in the menu depends not as much from the products, but from the fantasy of the cook, and rather, from his knowledge, skills, creative vein and culinary erudition.
For example, both parts received the same vegetables: potatoes, carrots, cabbage, a bit dried parsley and onions, not to mention the spices: pepper, laurel. But the cook from the neighboring part "chalked" of them only two dishes: today, concentrating cabbage in two or three days, he did soup, and tomorrow, on the contrary, choosing a potato from the warehouse in the past days, prepared potato soup with carrots. Our cooks from the same products did various soups, and sometimes the second dishes that called the "vegetable breakdown" is the name he, apparently, came up with himself, for anywhere in cookbooks it did not mean. In winter, such a vegetable stewed second dish was particularly desirable and welcome. In the summer, when the part was in the steppe, he sent an outfit to collect the abraise and the shell; in the forest - berries, mushrooms, saran roots, nuts; near settlements - nettle and swan. No matter how much these random additives have gathered, any little he put in a common boiler. And the familiar dish acquired a new aroma and smell, perceived as a completely unfamiliar and spruce with a large appetite and therefore with more benefit.
The first in life of the Swan soup our soldier-culinary was led to the army, and it was truly beautiful, remembering the dish forward. It is strongly shaken in many literature created by the idea of \u200b\u200bthe Swan as a classic food of the hungry and disadvantaged.
There were other examples of the creative approach of a modest battalion chef to the usual soldier dinner. Once, on the outcome of the war in the spring of 1944, the maize (corn) flour, which was sent to allies. No one knew what to do with her. To someone began to add it to wheat flour when baking bread, which he became fragile, quickly worried and caused the soldier's complaints. But otherwise using this, in essence, a very valuable food product was not cleaned. The soldiers grumbled on the cooks, the cooks scolded the intruders, those, in turn, knead the allies that melted us, with whom the devil himself will not figure out. Only our chef is not a foul. He took immediately a crescent rate instead of daily gram additives, sent a strengthened outfit in the steppe, asking to collect almost everything in a row - Swan, Lucerne, a shepherd bag, sorrel, abrahe, and prepared delicious taste and beautiful corking pellets with greens, bright , yellow outside and burning green inside. They were soft, fragrant, fresh, as Spring itself, and better every other means reminded the soldiers about the house, about the immediate end of the war, about peaceful life.
And after two weeks, the cook made Mamalygu, almost the entire battalion met this National Moldovan dish for the first time. The soldiers regretted that Mais sent too little, and would not be averse to exchange wheat flour on him.
Even a simple zhomatic coffee, our cook tried to make it deerfully familiar, finding ways to brew it cooler and fragrant.
Of course, these episodes took place as if unnoticed among the Terrible events of the war, but still remained in mind and especially clearly emerged when it turned out to be possible to compare the army table with post-war general and home, when many years have passed and it has become clear that the combat mood of soldiers Not least was created by a cook, his ability, his talent and that food not only in the literal sense, as physiological fuel, but also in a purely emotional plan influenced the rise of the spirit, helped to ride a victory, introduced a significant contribution to the combat training of warriors.
Emotional effects of food are especially well known to sailors, in the crew of which it turns out good Kok. Excellent cuisine asks many shadow sides of severe and uneven marine life. Unfortunately, this is the sacrament of the effects of the aromatic-flavoring components of food (and not only and not so much food itself) on the emotional sphere of our psyche still has been studied by scientists.
Meanwhile, this is not a mirage, but a reality. Tasty food leaves positive memories, good emotions. Candarous food, even if its excess, or leaves nothing in memory of himself, or contributes to the accumulation of negative associations. It can be seen that the aromatic-taste quality of food, and not only the sanitary and food, which is usually taken into account, is extremely important in human life. And this is just that for which it is worth becoming a cook for which it is worth overcome all the difficulties and unpleasant moments in the training of the cook case, but for which, undoubtedly, you need a talent.
If you ask the boy who has already become a long time for adults and who has chosen a specialty, far from cooking, who would like to be and thinking at all to become a cook, then, in all likelience, he could not definitely answer this question. After all, the thing is that a real strong interest, and the fleeting external passion is manifested in the earliest childhood equally sincerely, the same instinctively, unconsciously and irrelevant. At this moment, a deep manifestation of talent from fast-going curiosity and give in accordance with this, only adults, experienced people can, while the child himself can hardly be aware of his desires, their aspirations as some special, only He is one inherent. Our boy seemed to "play the kitchen" and watch how adults prepare must be interested in all.
But adults instead of manifestation of elementary sensitivity and attention, respect for the outstanding interest of the child did everything to eliminate this interest. They, first, pointed out the child that his Girl's interest, they expelled him from the kitchen, did everything possible to put an end to this (in their opinion!) Unnecessary tendency.
What a child felt while he worried all this, we can only guess. But, apparently, it is very hard if the talent was really. Maybe if adults supported his desire, it would get brilliant development.
It is known that human destiny is solved in early years. We should not forget that the first five years of life is the most responsible stage in the formation of the person. It is at this time that individual traits, characteristics and moral and volitional installations of a person are largely laid and determined. Stressing this thought, the famous Russian poet Valery Bryusov, who himself wrote the plays from three years, said, perhaps, a few grotesque, hyperbolic: "Who at the five years did not read the books, then I will not learn anything." And Lev Nikolayevich Tolstoy quite seriously wrote: "From a five-year-old child to me - one step. And from the newborn to the five-year-old - a terrible distance. " So remember this, young dads and moms.
But both for an adult, although not for any, understand the child is not always easy. The fact that for a child is attractive and seems like a fun game, for an adult is often represented by a tedious routine, a gray man. It sometimes applies to all that is associated with culinary practice.
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